Greetings;

This one is a 1.5 horse, 8 amps nameplate rating, air cooled which at low 
speed isn't goping to work at all well anyway, and at 20 Hz drive I am 
quite dissapointed in its torque, 3 or 4 oz/in when the torque boost is 
disabled.  I can stop and hold it between thumb and forefinger quite 
easily.  Turn the torque boost, range 0-4,  up to 0.5, and the apply 
frequency to 50Hz, about doubles the torque but that would be of limited 
usefullness at a 20% duty cycle max is it heats badly, hitting 130F at 
the front bearing plate in about 7 or 8 minutes just laying on the table 
spinning.  So I think its not going to be terribly usefull for g33.1 
tapping unless I add another 10/1 range between the motor and the 
backgear input the current motor drives. Reversing times are well 
subscond at 200Hz drive, so the added gear would seem to make up the 
missing torque.

I've attempted to gain access to removing the collet but have failed as 
it appears to have a spanner hole equipt ring that may be setting a 
bearing preload, so I am hesitant to put a wrench on the collet flats 
and try to loosen it with a set of tru-arc pliers.

Making a short stub shaft to put the existing drive gear from the OEM 
motor on the stub and chucking up the 1/2" sticking out seems like a 
bearing life shortener because of the amount of unsupported shaft 
between the bearings and the gear.  But that looks like the only choice 
if the collet cannot be easily removed.  That of course will need mount 
extensions to make room for the gear train.  All thats do-able of course 
once a suitable set of gears are in hand.  Boston Gear to the rescue I 
suspect.

The front, also black coated ring doesn't seem to meet the piece its 
screwed to with some short 4mm screws, which when I inspected it first, 
was pulled up a bit lopsided with two screws quite tight and the third 
one quite loose leaving a noticeably uneven gap between the parts.  That 
spanner hole equiped ring on the rear of the collet prevents its 
removal, as if the hole in that ring is smaller than the spanner hole 
equiped nut. So it looks as if the spanner holed ring may be the first 
to come off, then this stationary part behind it next, but not knowing 
whats bearing preload, I didn't go any farther.

Has anyone done that collet removal from one of these motors? And can 
guide me on the procedure?  I'd druther not make a $180 pile of junk out 
of it.

Thanks.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>

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