That Scout probably has that half a V8 engine.. its a slant 4 engine
with about 200 cu inches?
I believe that was made not too far from my house in Fort Wayne, IN.
I almost bought one of those back in the late 70's.
They rusted like crazy in the midwest. Rust prevention was an after
thought back then.
There are still a few of those running around here.
I'd ditch that device. Otherwise you will be rebuilding it again.
Dave
On 7/31/2017 5:43 PM, Kirk Wallace wrote:
On 07/31/2017 02:00 PM, andy pugh wrote:
On 31 July 2017 at 21:47, Kirk Wallace <kwall...@wallacecompany.com>
wrote:
Someone here might know where to get the thin heater wire (insulated
nichrome?) to rebuild the linked gauge CVR?
How hot does it get? Could you wrap the part in Kapton tape and use
uninsulated wire?
I don't think it normally should get exceptionally hot, just enough to
bend the bi-metal spring. Here is a link of a decent overview of CVR
units:
http://www.minimania.com/Smiths_Voltage_Stabilizers
less elegant:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qVfKiujK5A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1ou2WHdylY&t=2s
The unit I'm working on is for a International Harvester Scout from
the 60s. The bi-metal arm got too (blue) hot due to a dead short to
ground on the CVR output which melted the supply wire (should have had
a 14amp fuse according to the schematic).
We opened the can on this one and got it working again until the
heater wire melted from shorting to the bi-metal spring.
The plan so far is to use a 5 Volt buck converter instead:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222245520202
It may not matter, but the temperature characteristics of the CVR are
supposed to match the temperature characteristics of the gauges and
with the proper heater wire it should be easy to rewind.
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