Regrind a drill bit with the appropriate angle - instant countersink.
You could do it in code but you'll spend a lot more time coding than regrinding a drill.
Les On 18/12/2018 16:56, Gene Heskett wrote:
Greetings all; I have the code for this panel done, carving what I think is the correct size of dsub cutouts, and 10 holes to hold GS16-5 connectors, and one hole for a line cord packing gland. And copy #2 of it will need to have those 10 holes resized to fit a GS12-5 connector, I made a mistake buying the 2nd 10 from a different vendor because 10 was all the first one had, and bought smaller versions, which will NOT be solderable until I get a good glasses script to let me see better. But this panel, out of harder stock twice as thick as the boxes OEM panel, doesn't yet have a pair of mounting holes in each end, countersunk for a 2 or 2.5mm flat head screw. And I don't have any countersinks that small. So what I've got in mind is to dup it in g-code, or maybe just switch to a pan head and just drill the holes. Is there a way to use a g3 with a descending to zero diameter, while at the same time sinking the tool to emulate a countersink? To a final depth of around 50 thou? That would not leave a mirror finish countersink, but since it would also be hidden under the screws head, it would be "good enough for the girls I go with". Short of a 20 line loop with descending depth and diameter with a depth decrement of a couple thou? This thing already has a 40 minute execution time, so another 5 minutes a hole doesn't sound too unreasonable given the max speed and ipm of this toy mill. Its still sw stepping at only 28 volts of motor power=watching paint dry speeds, when the 2500 rev spindle is figured in. Any other ideas out there? Thanks all.
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