On Sunday 07 April 2019 01:41:38 John Dammeyer wrote: > Hi Gene, > You're way ahead of me on wiring up limit switches. I'm also busy > adding CNC to my mill which is the same as the now discontinued > Grizzly G3616. > > Here it is when it first arrived in 2007 and some of my pictures. > http://www.autoartisans.com/milton.htm > > One of the first things I did to it was add a Shumatech DRO-350 which > included adding a caliper to the quill.
Once cnc is running it, you'll never note the quill caliper needs a battery. My quill has been locked tight on the G0704 for years. Its just automatic to look at the on-screen dro. > So I made a pattern and cast > quill clamp. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/QuillClamp.jpg > The intention was to fasten a lot more stuff to it but so far it's > only the scale. There's a photo later of it mounted to the switch > box. > Next, tired of hand cranking the knee with a poor fitting cast iron > crank handle I poured some brackets, added angular contact bearings > and spacers to remove the right angle bevel gear backlash and started > with a 500oz-in motor and 3:1 reduction. Lousy speed. Just not quite > enough torque with both rotary table and vise on the table. So up to > a 950 oz-in motor, a Gecko driver and a linear supply of 60V. Now > it's adequate. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/Z-AxisPowerSupply.jpg > And the drive. I used my ELS as the stepping controller to move the > knee up and down. This was in 2011. > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/KneeDrive.jpg > > With the failure of the supplied light which I haven't yet rebuilt I > whipped up a 3D printed collar and wired up some LEDs to a small LED > controller and power supply > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/LampStuff2.jpg > And at first it looked pretty good. > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/LEDLightTrial1.jpg > But I didn't take into account the size of the drill chuck or tooling. > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/Shadow1.jpg > So additional lighting is still going to be needed. But it was an > interesting try. That was in 2016. Nice shadow, right where you need it, not! I light from the side with a gooseneck, as I've found the head-on leds in most colonoscopy cameras do nothing but add detail hiding glare to the image, when I can get the ^%#& camera to work at all. My camera mounts on a dovetail for remove and reinstall repeatability, on the bottom of a spindle lock I made from 1/2" plate. > The Y Axis was next. Again some castings and this time the HP-UHU > Servo driver and a 100V Servo motor that tucks in nicely under the > knee out of the way. Angular contact bearings keep the lead screw > from moving. A ball screw conversion will be done after the CNC > conversion is complete. > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/YAxisMachining-8s.jpg You'll be able to lessen the belt reductions I see, by large amounts once the ball screws are moving it. > The X axis was the most work. I didn't have a large enough crucible > to cast it one piece so I did the main mount in 2. The motor mount is > the third http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/XAxisMounted1.jpg > Neat, but I've no casting stuff except for bullets. I cut that stuff from 1/2" alu panel. > Now that I can move all three axis the electrical is the next part. > The mill has two electrical boxes. One with the transformers and > relays and a master switch. > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/G3616-ElectricalPanel1.jpg > > The second box holds the ESTOP (DPST, NC contacts, one not used). > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/DRO_SwitchBox.jpg > There was room inside for an additional 24VAC relay that is placed in > series with the existing ESTOP circuit. It's this relay that is > managed by the PC ESTOP control simulating a mechanical activation of > the ESTOP button. I've not addressed that yet. Do have a big red & yellow switch though. Haven't found my round tuit since I was living in Rapid City in the '60's. > I decided to run the entire system from 220VAC so I could use the > existing contactor to shut off power. I'm all wall powered except for the Sheldon. > But I wanted a circuit breaker > for the electronics power and one for the CNC motors. So I 3D printed > a box and mounted the units in that. > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/OutletBox-3D-1b.jpg > Hard to get a good photo because it's on the back of the mill really > close to the wall. The two 15A, 220VAC outlets are for the two > separate circuits. > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/OutletBox-3D-1g.jpg Neat John. What SSR's contain that display? I have a din-rail strip screwed to the rear edge of the 2x4x3/4 shelf hanging off the ceiling to hold the electrics. Currently has a relay for the spindle coolant pump mounted, and will have a 2nd relay to control a 2nd power strip that everything for the mill is powered by including a 5000 lumen 4 foot lamp over the top of the gantry, on the bottom of the shelf. So the whole thing will light up when the machine is enabled. Out of SSR's so a 12volt coil 4pdt relay I do have will have to do. > > And finally here's roughly what the BoB and control side looks like. > Works off two parallel ports on the PC. > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/EverythingMounted.jpg > > The STMBL drive is in the top RH corner. That's for the 4th Axis > Harmonic Drive which was an interesting diversion and has its own set > of photos. I keep hearing about the STMBL. How is it different? > Still lots to do. More pictures as I make some progress. You work a lot neater than I do John. As for the castings, I had the 1/2" thick deck plate from an Ampex VR-1200, which had some holes for this and that in it, but I filled them and used a good sized piece for a new apron on the Sheldon, which is also the X motor mount. Gained a bit of space behind it by drilling and tapping into the flat front face of the carriage. Added bearings to the old crossfeed crank boss that screws into the front of the carriage and drive the x screw from that. Backlash is about a thou now, was about 85 thou. The two mpja encoder dials I can drive it with by hand are also on that new apron along with a mode button to control the per step jog size. Because I've no casting facilities, I bought another 1x2 foot sheet of 1/2" 6061, and at some point will make yet another new apron, but this time things rearranged a bit to move the Z nut to the right an inch so it will reduce the extreme compression of the bellows over the left end of the screw, hopefully stopping the carriages climb up the v-way when the toolpost is at the nose of the spindle. The remachining of the mt5 taper in the spindle is a thou or maybe 2 out of whack because of that effect when I was re-grinding the bend out of it. Makes the deep end of it too big, and means I have to get downright brutal at tightening the drawtube when I've got the ER40 adapter mounted. For instance on the 6040, I knew I needed some overshoot stopping distance for the y home switch. but I'd bought a huge bag of 4x4x2.5 surface mount button switches, and there was zero room for a roller lever there as the gantry can actually contact the front frame. So I superglued a piece of double sided pcb to the end of a 2.5 long by 3/8" piece of .032" thick alu, and machined a groove down the middle of the pcb, soldered the switch to the pcb, and the cable to the two strips. drilled and tapped a 4mm hole in the end face of the 6040 about 2" left, and a hole in the strip located so the pcb and the switch hung out in the breeze to the right of the end panel, drilled and tapped the edge of the gantry vertical, and put a polished flat headed 4mm screw and a locking nut so it hits the switch. The leaf of alu flexes about 1/16" when the screw hits the switch, furnishing a stable, not enough to bend it permanently overtravel, the HOME_LATCH_VEL goes till the switch opens, and home is ATM set .2" to the rear from that. I found I had to set and use a HOME_FINAL_VEL for that else the jerk stalls the motor. XY can both free run at 210 ipm, Z can't raise more than 120, motor to small and spindle too heavy. So I've yet to set a sensible HOME_FINAL_VEL on one axis yet. To mount the X switch, a roller lever microswitch, I scraped the epoxy paint on the front face of the bracket supporting the moving end of the cable chain, polished all the bumps and such off the side of the switch, and rapid glued the switch body on the vertical face, The lever hits the inside edge of the gantry vertical, stopping about 20 thou from contact and crash, searches for switch opening, and homes about an inch right of that. The Z is similar with the epoxy paint sanded for tooth the glue can grab, a 5/8x3/4 bit of that same .032" alu panel was glued to the X frame to the right and below the motor, its was sanded for glue tooth on both sides too, and a roller lever switch sanded flat and glued face down so the Z frame hits the lever and stops the Z SEARCH_VEL about 40 thou from a crash. Because Z motion is precious, home is .200 down from that but I can set the sw limits above that as its a calculated stop. The mister is sorta working, well enough I could do the end panels for the interface box now, hopefully w/o breaking a tool because it clogged. With a 7i76D as the first bob in the box, and the 2nd CNC4PC C1G needing a chipset, I still have quite a few leftover i/o's on the 7i76, so I will probably remove the C1G, and move the i/o connector holes to the other panel before I'm done. I wrote "if" switches, or can add them, to the code that will carve those panels, so moving that stuff around isn't a more than 10 minute problem. Biggest problem is that the box is about 1/16" smaller front to back than the 7i76. I Don't have a 3d printer, and I like metal boxes to contain the noise so its an ebay box but you take what you can get. So the rear panel at least will be mounted on standoffs long enough to clear the rear of the 7i76, needs about 5/16" to clear the wire ends that enter the rear connector. And because the gs16-5 connectors I have bought for this, project inward around 7/16", space I don't have, I might skip them and just mill slots for cable entry in the top edge of the panel. The bobs are mounted high as there's matchbox power supplies under them, and I've not yet bolted the euro style power strips for ground and 12 volts down. Lots of detail stuff yet before the neat phrase lives here. :) I need to get out to wallies and get a 15 ft cat5, part of the mess on that shelf is 50 feet of not well coiled up cat5 to put the computer on my local network. Take care John Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
