Some of these resins are caustic, the especially nasty ones have a delayed effect. You think you got it all off your thigh after you whipped your pants off after spilling resin on your leg. Then a while later... Just one of the rather ewww images that can be turned up with a search for 3d printing resin injury. https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/cgs8t1/nsfl_bodily_injury_i_take_back_everything_ive/ Safety first. Never move a resin printer with resin in it. Wear long chemical proof gloves, a chemical proof apron, and a face shield. Sure you can get by with a pair of 10 mil nitrile gloves and being very very careful, and making sure the dog, cat, kids, and everyone else that could jostle an elbow is locked out of the room, but having chemical liquid safety gear is safer. I don't have a resin printer yet, I want one, but really don't have a need for one yet. I could work with one without going to a high level of protection, but there are definitely things I'm perfectly willing to observe the fails of others and go "Nope, not gonna try that just to see if it'll happen to me too.". I have, for getting close to 40 years, had food and drink next to every computer I've ever owned and not once have I ever spilled any.
When I started doing silicone mold making and urethane resin casting ~20 years ago I bought an elbow length pair of neoprene gauntlets. Turned out I'm allergic to neoprene. My forearms broke out in little bumps all over. Also turned out that for *those* materials that level of protection wasn't needed. Getting the uncured silicone or urethane resin off skin is a sticky job and requires a bit of soap and scrubbing with a nail brush. Fortunately such incidents have been very few. On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 5:13:44 PM MDT, Bruce Layne <linux...@thinkingdevices.com> wrote: The resins seem to be UV cured polyurethane or similar. Polyurethanes have a wide range of physical properties. There are "ABS-like" resins that are very structural. I believe hockey pucks are made of polyurethane. The resin printed parts are dense and impact resistant. One good choice for a structural resin is Siraya Blu, available in translucent light blue or clear. Most of the resins can be mixed, even between different companies, to fine tune the physical properties. As an example, I printed some little bars that are 5mm X 30mm X 60mm from a generic gray resin that isn't considered to be one of the structural resins. I'd need some tools to damage it. If I tried to break it with my hands, I'd only hurt myself. I'd been waiting for resin printers to decrease in price and for the parts to be structural rather than "looks like" prototypes and fragile miniature figurines. It happened while I wasn't watching and was a pleasant surprise. We're suddenly seeing structural parts from resin printers appearing everywhere. Here's another advantage over FDM parts - resin printed parts are solid so they can be used to make fittings and manifolds for compressed air or liquids. The flexible resin is very flexible but it has a slow return to its original shape. I have an application that needs a fast rebound, so I'll be using the FDM printers to print those parts from TPU filament. There are plenty of YouTube MSLA videos, and the resins are for sale on Amazon if you'd like to read some customer reviews. My only down side to resin printing is washing the uncured resin from the parts, rinsing them and UV post curing the parts. It's a bit of a hassle but worth it if you want strong parts printed at high resolution. _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users