On Wednesday 06 January 2021 05:28:10 Bruce Layne wrote:

> On 1/6/21 4:29 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > how does one maintain access to the bed slots for hold down clamps?
>
> That's the problem with the slotted aluminum table top.  Very handy...
> until you realize it's not flat and/or level.
>
> For a small slotted aluminum bed that was flat, I'd probably try to
> shim it level.
>
> If it's not quite flat and the top thickness allowed it, I might
> machine the top of the T slot bed flat and level, just like a spoil
> board.

That probably would not leave enough meat for the clamp bolt heads to 
pull against in places.  These are off a 16th" or more from previous 
checks.  Very poor extrusions IMNSHO.

> If you had convenient access to the edges of the T slots, you could
> always use countersunk screws to install a UHMW (cutting board) as a
> spoil board and machine it level.  Fly cutters are problematic with a
> low torque and possibly out of tram spindle that would cause cupping
> so I use a 1" or 1.5" diameter router bit on my 2' X 4' CNC router. 
> You could use an even smaller diameter cutter on your smaller CNC
> router. Then drill a series of spaced holes coinciding with the slots
> and push in T slot nuts from the side to the location you want when
> mounting your workpiece.  It's not that fiddly.  Push the machine
> screws down to stop the nut, lift the screw, and push the nut another
> 3/8" until the screw drops into the tapped hole in the nut.  You lose
> the continuous 1D adjustment range of the entire slot, but there is
> already a course spacing between the slots on the other axis.
>
> Or you could mount the UHMW bed upside down and machine clearance
> holes and hexagonal nut pockets an inch apart along the slots, press
> in an array of nuts, flip the UHMW over, screw it down and machine the
> top level.
>
> If you really want to impress the chicks,

What chicks? At my age, all I see are hungry sharks.

> mount an aluminum plate with 
> countersunk screws, machine the top flat and level, drill or mill an
> array of holes and use a thread mill to tap them.

That has crossed my mind after seeing a guy put in a steel plate on his 
6040 on you-tube. But the cost of that steel plate is an ouch and it 
will rust. So I'll see about 1/2" alu.  And I already have some hardened 
6mm black oxide ready thread I can make holdown studs from.

> Be sure to use 
> anti-seize in those holes and use black oxide screws instead of
> stainless because aluminum is galling and aluminum and stainless is
> bad juju.

I am quite fam with that, we use copper bolts for transmission line 
flanges since the only way to remove a weathered SS bolt is break it and 
anybody on the ground had damned well be wearing a good hard hat and 
heavy clothing. A broken 3/8" bolt from 400 feet up is a lethal weapon.

> Don't use a cordless impact driver to fixture your work. 

Aww, gee, why not? :)

> Probably twenty eleven other ways to get a flat level bed on your CNC
> router... and we haven't even discussed vacuum hold down tables.   :-)
>
Chuckle, mentioning UHMW, I have a cutting board in the kitchen made of 
that.  Its about 1/4" high in the middle after 10 years.  Still a usable 
cutting board, but flat and stable it isn't. I think the dishwasher heat 
is the main cause.  

So if I do something like that, I'll probably remove these extrusions and 
cut it out of a 2x4 sheet of 1/2" alu.  And I have a thread mill but 
its .750" in diameter.  I'd need one able to do 6mm holes, pretty small. 
Pricey too, $85 for 2 in solid carbide single tooth from Hong Kong.  So 
the first step has been taken. Locating the alu sheet is next. But I can 
have that in 4 or 5 days, the thread mills in around 5 weeks. Spit...

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>


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