Did you watch this video til the end?  I time stamped it.

https://youtu.be/eW1GGI55Epc?t=878

sam



On Mon, Dec 20, 2021 at 12:26 PM Chris Albertson <albertson.ch...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 6:05 PM Sam Sokolik <samco...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hmm - seems we are making things a bit more complicated than they need to
> > be..  Why didn't the simple flex gear work ok?   You need to make the
> > system with fine enough splines that the flexure is at a minimum...
> You
> > can lower the backlash to a minimum by applying a small amount of
> > pressure to the system.
> >
>
> The problem with small splines is that he is making this with printed
> plastic.   There is a minimum feature size that works.  Seriously you want
> to stay above module 0.5 and bigger if you can.   Mod 1.0 is more
> realistic  There are two reasons.  (1) plastic is not very strong unless
> you make the parts big and (2) the printer makes parts with dimensional
> tolerances of about 0.4 mm so if your parts have 1mm features you can
> expect 50% dimensional errors.  That said, modulo 1.0 gears work really
> well.  Smaler ones have a short life.
>
> Finally ANY flexing at all is the death of printed parts.  They fail by the
> failure of interlayer adhesion.  Think of printed plastic like it is soft
> pine wood.  When making gears from yellow pine, the direction of the grain
> matters a lot and no one would think of making module 0.5 gears with pine.
>
> I've been able to build an entire CNC conversion kit for a mini-mill from
> printed plastic.  The stuff is VERY rigid and strong if you make the parts
> large enough
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> > sam
> >
> > On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 7:46 PM John Dammeyer <jo...@autoartisans.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Alright.  So it spins really freely but keeping the planetary cluster
> > > centred is a bit of an issue.  So the attached photo shows roughly
> (very
> > > roughly) what I had in mind.
> > >
> > > With the right coupler between the motor and the gear cluster the
> > > planetary assembly should stay in the same place.  There really isn't
> any
> > > axial load.  There is a place for a 40mmx19mm bearing that I happen to
> > have
> > > on hand.
> > >
> > > But what about the driven ring gear?  In one of the model shops today I
> > > saw a package of 100 5.5mm stainless steel balls they sell for putting
> > into
> > > paint bottles to help mix them up.
> > >
> > > Seemed and ideal size for a bearing race between the two ring gears.
> > Kind
> > > of like what Gene H. stated he did on his setup.  (Pictures?)  So the
> > Blue
> > > Gear is fixed.  The Green Rotates.  The lazy susan like bearing between
> > > handles axial pressure in the direction of the blue gear.  But really
> the
> > > only thing holding up the green ring gear is the planetary assembly.
> > >
> > > Say we wanted to mount a face plate or chuck onto the green gear.  I'm
> > > open to ideas on how to stabilize that.  Sketches would be great.
> > >
> > > Methinks a part that surrounds the blue gear and extends over the green
> > > and they also have a bearing race between.  Or we make a similar
> bearing
> > > mount to the rear one for the front with the gear cluster holding this
> in
> > > place extended out to the bearing.  Now the faceplate is attached to
> > this.
> > > But a lot more axial twist on the small bearing in the middle.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > John
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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> >
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>
>
> --
>
> Chris Albertson
> Redondo Beach, California
>
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