On 9/6/25 16:57, andy pugh wrote:
On Sat, 6 Sept 2025 at 19:32, Nicklas SB Karlsson <n...@nksb.eu> wrote:
You know how other manufacturers write "G-code" or whatever they use for this?
I don't know if any other controls support polar coordinates, but it's
really useful for hand-coding bolt circle patterns.
That said, Gene's apparent requirements could probably be achieved
with a conventional multi-turn arc.
Unfortunately I can't visualize a method of enlarging the hole by .01mm
increments by conventional means w/o rerunning Johns arcgen for every
increment in the diameter, whereas I can drive the starting radius in a
loop using the ^ and @ notation. The # of degrees doesn't change from
say 3600 to do 10 loops at that size. then increment the radius #'s
value by .01mm or more, driving it to the bottom of the z stroke, and
doing that 10 loops at the same time it lifts the tool to the top of the
z stroke, the upside down z motion because this go704 has stiction to
overcome going down that slowly.
But for today I've hit a show stopper I wasn't expecting, a decade back
up the log I had carved a couple notches in the rim of the gearshift
knob on this go704, and built a half moon thing to hide two small roller
tipped microswitches those notches activated which in turn fed a 4 input
mux, the output of which was further combined so the tach, reading the
spindle motor spindle speed, showed the right speed, but I got cute with
the 4 input mux, and fed the two unused inputs a small signal to run the
motor about 30 rpm if neither knob tally was true. The PID is quick
enough, and my hand slow enough that by the time the gears have cleared,
the motor is at this super slow speed and the next gear is meshed and
fully engaged by the time the knob reaches the other tally switch. Net
result being that I can have it spinning at top speed in low range,
reach up and crank the knob to change gears w/o having to grab and turn
the spindle by hand and top speed is achieved. And the tach now reads
3000 revs, no gear clash/crash. Works as written as long as both tallys
work, but tonight, the low gear tally switch has failed so my max speed
in low gear is now about 1 rpm. By the time I had that low speed tally
switch failure sussed, my back was acting like its 90 years old, which
it is. Plus both heaters in the garage lost their settings in a 2 hour
power failure in the middle of a thunderstorm friday night so it was
down to chilly but should be somewhat warmed up again by tomorrow. Lots
of iron and masonry to warm back up. Its better insulated than this kit
house built in the 60's.
So I'll have to call my fav electrician to see why my 20kw kohler didn't
start friday night. PB & acid battery probably expired. Its around 6
years old. Damned few on this ball of rock and water understand how to
charge a lead acid battery without burning it dry from overcharge. They
can last 20+ years if treated right. I have done it, used the same
alternator, a 120 amp ambulance version, a regulator I built and the
same battery while running 4 vehicles to the end of their life. And that
battery would still turn a big V8 wrong side out starting it on a 30
below Nebraska winter morning. Most of the secret was the reference in
that regulator, had 5 1n4001 in series for a huge negative temp comp.
Thanks Andy.
Cheers, Gene Heskett, CET.
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
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