or the benefit of every Tom, Dick and Harry visiting India and daring
to drive on Indian roads, I am offering a few hints for survival.

They are applicable to every place in India except Bihar, where life
outside a vehicle is only marginally safer. Indian road rules broadly
operate within the domain of karma where you do your best, and leave
the results to your insurance company.

Do we drive on the left or right of the road?

The answer is "both".

Basically you start on the left of the road, unless it is occupied. In
that case, go to the right, unless that is also occupied. Then proceed
by occupying the next available gap, as in chess. Just trust your
instincts, ascertain the direction, and proceed. Adherence to road
rules leads to much misery and occasional fatality. Most drivers don't
drive, but just aim their vehicles in the intended direction. Don't
get discouraged. Except for a belief in reincarnation, the other
drivers are not in any better shape.

Don't stop at pedestrian crossings just because some fool wants to
cross the road. You may do so only if you enjoy being bumped in the
back. Pedestrians have been strictly instructed to cross only when
traffic is moving slowly or has come to a dead stop because some
minister is in town. Still some idiot may try to wade across, but
then, let us not talk ill of the dead.

Blowing your horn is not a sign of protest as in some countries. We
honk to express joy, resentment, frustration, and romance or just
activate a dozing cow in the middle of the bazaar.

Keep informative books in the glove compartment. You may read them
during traffic jams, while awaiting the chief minister's motorcade, or
waiting for the rainwater to recede when over-ground traffic meets
underground drainage.

Occasionally you might see what looks like a UFO with blinking colored
lights and weird sounds emanating from within. This is an illuminated
bus, full of happy pilgrims singing bhajans. These pilgrims go at
break-neck speed, seeking contact with the Almighty, often meeting
with success.

Auto Rickshaw, (Baby Taxi). The result of a collision between a
rickshaw and an automobile, this three-wheeled vehicle works on an
external combustion engine that runs on a mixture of kerosene oil and
creosote or even cooking gas. This triangular vehicle carries iron
rods, gas cylinders or passengers three times its weight and
dimension, for an unspecified fare. After careful geometric
calculations, children are folded and packed into these auto-rickshaws
until some children in the periphery are not in contact with the
vehicle at all. Then their school bags are pushed into the microscopic
gaps all round, so those minor collisions with other vehicles on the
road cause no permanent damage. Of course, the peripheral children are
charged half the fare and also learn Newton's laws of motion enroute
to school. Auto-rickshaw drivers follow the road rules depicted in the
film Benhur, and are licensed to break all laws of physics.

Mopeds. The moped looks like an oil tin on wheels and makes noise like
an electric shaver. It runs 30 miles on a teaspoon of petrol and
travels at break-bottom speed. As the sides of the road are too rough
for a ride, the moped drivers tend to drive in the middle of the road.
They would rather drive under heavier vehicles instead of around them
and are often "mopped" off the tarmac.

Leaning Tower of Passes. Most bus passengers are given free passes and
during rush hours, there is absolute mayhem. There are passengers
hanging off other passengers, who in turn hang off the railings and
the overloaded bus leans dangerously, defying laws of gravity but
obeying laws of surface tension. As drivers get paid for overload (so
many rupees per kg of passenger), no questions are ever asked. Steer
clear of these buses by a width of three passengers.

One-way Street: These boards are put up by traffic people to add jest
in their otherwise drab lives. Don't stick to the literal meaning and
proceed in one direction. In metaphysical terms, it means that you
cannot proceed in two directions at once. So drive, as you like, in
reverse throughout, if you are the fussy type.

Lest I sound hypercritical, I must add a positive note. Rash and fast
driving in residential areas has been prevented by providing "speed
breakers", two per house. This mound, incidentally, covers the water
and drainage pipes for that residence and is left un-tarred for easy
identification by the corporation authorities, should they want to
recover the pipe for year-end accounting.

Night driving on Indian roads can be an exhilarating experience (for
those with the mental makeup of Chenghis Khan). In a way, it is like
playing Russian roulette, because you do not know who amongst the
drivers is loaded. What looks like premature dawn on the horizon
usually turns out to be a truck attempting a speed record? On
encountering it, just pull partly into the field adjoining the road
until the phenomenon passes.

Our roads do not have shoulders, but occasional boulders. Do not blink
your lights expecting reciprocation. The only dim thing in the truck
is the driver, and with the peg of illicit arrack (alcohol) he has had
at the last stop, his total cerebral functions add up to little more
than naught.

Truck drivers are the James Bonds of India, and are licensed to kill.
Often you may encounter a single powerful beam of light about six feet
above the ground. This is not a super motorbike, but a truck
approaching you with a single light on, usually the left one. It could
be the right one, but never get too close to investigate. You may
prove your point posthumously. Of course, all this occurs at night, on
the trunk roads. During the daytime, trucks are more visible, except
that the drivers will never signal. (And you must watch for the absent
signals; they are the greater threat). You will often observe that the
cleaner who sits next to the driver, projecting his hand out and
waving hysterically. This is definitely not to be construed as a
signal for a left turn. The waving is just a statement of physical
relief on a hot day.

If, after all this, you still want to drive in India, have your
lessons Between 11 pm and 4 am - when the police have gone home and -
the citizen is then free to enjoy the Freedom of Speed' enshrined in
our constitution.

PS. Having said all this, it is also true that the accident rate and
related deaths are less in India compared to US and other countries.
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