I'm going to try self-made dupes as well, so thanks for the advice. I already have an old Canon FL Bellows and FDn 50/3.5 macro but I was going to try an EOS-body (with FD-EOS macro adapter). I also have the film duplicating device (another bellows and slide holder) for the bellows. Camera body could be EOS-3, EOS-50E or Canon FTb-n (without the FD-EOS adapter of course...). Do you (anyone) have any more advice to give? - With EOS-3 standard focusing screen, how much and what kind of exposure error do I get with my kit (so what is the amount and direction of correction)? (Canon recommends using some other screen with the FD-EOS adapter) - What is the recommended aperture (with 50mm lens)? f16 perhaps? - Flash usage: reflected on-camera or pointing towards the lens with off-camera cord? - How about using a light table as light source? - Is manual flash better (with some trial and error first) than TTL flash? - If I use manual flash could I use a flash meter somehow (e.g. by measuring the light arriving at slide holder and then adding stop or few to compensate? - If I find one color setting giving me proper results with one source slide will I be able to use the same setting (assuming the film type and light color remains the same) or do I need to bracket the color as well? - How much and with how small steps is it necessary to bracket the exposure if the original material (slide) changes from light (e.g. mostly snow) to almost dark (underexposed flash shot)? Thanks! Vesa >Previously I used the Canon FD Auto Bellow and FD Bellows and an old F1 and >Cibachrome colour filter gels. My light source was often a slide projector >(inconsistent colour with age of bulb) or my studio flash quartz modelling >light. The lens was a 50 mm Canon macro. You could do exactly the same >set >up with the EOS Auto Bellows and EOS 50 mm macro and the EOS 5 camera body. >My results with this set up were excellent and I used it for many years >making commercial dupes for clients and other photographers that were >better >than most labs apparently. The lens can deliver the sharpness, the >operator >needs to deliver the colour in combination with consistent E6 processing. > >I mainly used Fujichrome CDU II as duping film. I found that it was the >most >consistent for colour from batch to batch. Remember, NO dupe will ever be >as sharp or exactly the same colour or contrast as your original, but you >can get them extremely close. In camera original images are always best >and >least expensive dupes if you can do so. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. * **** ******* *********************************************************** * For list instructions, including unsubscribe, see: * http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/eos_list.htm ***********************************************************
