>>You can also build a "Y" cable for the remote socket and fire both cameras
>>at the same time. You can use a pair of diodes to obtain some isolation.
>>You only need to be sure that both shutters are open when the flash is
>>triggered. You can do that conecting the flash to the larger lag-time body
>>or selecting a smaller shutter time for the flash camera and using second
>>curtain sync.
>
>
>My friend who will also use this device has two 1Vs so they have
>the same lag time. That's why I didn't find the double remote
>release so practical.
Well, you can include some delay in one of the cables in order to be sure
that one of the cameras receive the signal after the other.
>Using the second curtain sync was also an option but in case where
>you need fast response time from visual observation to flash
>triggering and ALSO want to use long shutter speed to use ambient
>light as well it doesn't work (response time gets too long).
Yes, in this case a delay in one of the cables is the way to go.
>> >Perhaps keeping the shutter release half pressed decreases
>> >the EOS-3 shutter lag?
>>
>>Don't know.
>
>I found out that if EOS-3 (the slave body in this case) was set to M
>a 60 msecond pulse from 50E PC connector was enough. If EOS-3 was set
>e.g. to Av it was not enough (and required pressing the shutter half-
>way in advance).
You can try to increase the pulse length from the PC connector. Perhaps, a
shunt capacitor in the PC cable will do. It's easy to design the capacitor
value if you know the time delay you want to add and the current that flows
trough the remote button when its pushed.
I would also add a diode in order to be sure that the current always flow
from the remote socket to the PC connector and not in the other way.
>Thus it seems that the full-press position does the same as the
>half-press position (activate AE and possible AF) prior to triggering
>the shutter.
Ok, I don't have a EOS-3 son can't confim.
>> >Any comments?
>>
>>I won't do that. I will use a remote release with two cables for the two
>>bodies.
>
>Thanks for encouragement... ;-)
Well, using the PC and remote connectors in unusual ways can be dangerous
although it can work.
>Unfortunately my friend also wants to use the camera's own shutter release
>button. It feels better and also works if you want/need to
>hand-hold the master camera.
>
>I know you can get the half-press and full-press information from
>remote release socket when the camera shutter release button is
>pressed (probably it works just by connecting the remote release
>connectors in two cameras together (at least if they are the same
>type) so avoiding the remote release switch should be doable.
Perhaps will work.
It all depends on how is designed the internal ciruit of the camera. If you
want to electrically isolate both cameras, you can build a circuit to sense
the status of one camera and trigger the other. It will also add some delay
in order to be sure that one camera is triggered before the other one.
>Thanks !
>Vesa
There are several solutions for the problem you describe. Unfortunatelly
some of the solutions, including the safer ones, can only be developed
building an electronic circuit to link both cameras. It's not difficult,
but it's not that easy if you're not used to electronics.
Off course, I will help yo to develop a circuit if you need.
For instance, you can sense the status of one camera using the remote
socket, delay the signal, and use a relay to trigger the second camera.
Thus you get delay and electrical isolation between the cameras.
Best regards
Vicente
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