> Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 22:51:50 +0900
> From: "Jim Davis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: EOS OT: blue filter
>
> > Grab the lighter one. It will take you close or on
> > the spot in most conditions, if there's anything
> > left you can filter this while printing.
> > Served me well for years.
> > Michael Quack <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://www.photoquack.de
>
> Yes, I second that choice. I have a Hoya 80B which I use for all types
> of tungsten lighting with great results. It's actually made for photofloods,
> but is lighter blue, you lose less light, and it gives a slightly warm look
> to regular light bulbs, which I like. I figure with our own eyes, those
> lights really do look warm, so it's more natural than balancing them neutral
> like the other blue filters do.
The Wratten 80B converts tungsten 3400K to daylight 5500K,
while the Wratten 80A does the same from tungsten 3200 K.
Approximately, that is, because you can't guarantee for
tungsten bulbs, their age is very important for the color.
Yes, the 80B is the way to go. We are all used to different
light colors, just think of the green fluorescents in supermarkets.
While we do accept them as white, we all aren't surprised to
see them green, or to see tungsten light yellowish-red.
But we would notice fluos turning magenta-red or tungsten
turning blue-green. So, if in doubt, rather use a weaker
filter than to try to land on the spot. Looks more natural,
then. If in mixed light daylight and fluo, any filtering
would make the daylight turn pink. Don't filter at all,
if you have a reference light in the picture.
--
Michael Quack <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://www.photoquack.de
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