Canon has programmed the E-TTL flash exposure to behave as a fill light source, so the flash exposures indoors are underexposed 2/3 to 1 stop*.
E-TTL is also is easily fooled if the subject contains large amounts of white or black, or is highly reflective. FEL isn't available if you use CF-2 to move the AF activation to the * button. The thyristor-type strobes (and the old Canon TTL system) use a more center-weighted pattern, and will give proper exposure. *It's better to dial in +2/3 flash exposure compensation. +1 tends to blow out highlights more easily. on 12/18/01 8:08 PM, Bob Markey II ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) wrote: > I have a D30 and 550EX (had a 420EX). Before you spring for big bucks for an > EX series flash, read up on the D30 TL flash problems on DPreview.com: > > http://www.dpreview.com/forums/forum.asp?forum=1019 > > and RobGalbraith.com: > > http://www.robgalbraith.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum&f=8&SUBMIT=Go > > A few users claim to have no problems with exposure with the D30 and EX > flashes (I'm not one of them), but many users swear by the consistency of > exposures using thyristor-type strobes such as the Sunpack 544 and Vivitar > 283/285. > > I can get little consistency using my D30/550EX package. Even the silly FEL > gimmick doesn't always provide proper exposures (although it almost always > causes my subjects to move away after the preflash burst, thinking the image > had been made!). > > I'm thinking about going for a 285. -- John Chennavasin | This article contains material which may inform and [EMAIL PROTECTED] | may be quoted, printed, forwarded, or redistributed www.fobpro.com | as long as the original attribution remains intact. * **** ******* *********************************************************** * For list instructions, including unsubscribe, see: * http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/eos_list.htm ***********************************************************
