Marco Kost wrote:

> Hm, last year I was shooting the World Championships in Ice 
> Climbing in
> Austria. As there was a lot of ice around the competitors and an
> overcast, grey to white sky and I was shooting in an angle of about 30
> to 45 degrees up, I tried to meter on the competitors with the spot
> metering of my EOS 3.
> 
> Then I curiously asked a colleague standing next to mine, who 
> was using
> a light meter, about the results of his metering. The difference was
> between 1 and 1 and a half f-stops. So I decided to try out both
> results and when I examined my slides at home, I found out, that in
> this special situation, the light meter was more accurate 
> than my EOS 3
> spot metering.
> 
> As I still have no light meter, used a grey card this year and was
> happy with the results I got.
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Marco,

Having used a meter for many years, I can tell you that the width of the
spot and where you are pointing it to play major factors. Test it this way,
using your spot in the EOS3 and the spot on a meter, test it using a gray
card.  They should be within 1/3 stops. If not, the meter in your EOS3 is
off.
FWIW, I have a lot of experience in exposure and often do not use a meter.
In the North America and most of Europe there is a 2 stop difference between
sun and shade. If you are using an ISO 100 film, and your subject is in the
sun, your exposure will be  1/60 at F11. In the shade F5.6.  Partial shade
and sun F8.  
For your overcast day, use the spot meter in you camera and meter off an
area that is in the same lighting as your subject. I would assume your
shooting up would mean the shady part of a subject which in overcast
conditions would be about 1 more open.
Often I use the spot but not on one area.  I gauge the range of the image
looking at light and dark areas. Then adjust accordingly.  If you want to
save yourself time, get a Wallace Exposure disc.  It will make your camera
into a incident light meter.  A great investment.

Peter K
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