----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any advice in this forum.]----
In a message dated 5/17/2006 8:29:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
1. I know there has been a lot of talk about propeller position. What is the
correct way to install the prop?
Randy,
I'm assuming that you are asking about prop orientation, and that you have a metal prop on a flanged crankshaft: The Alon manual says to instal the prop so that as the prop is rotated in the normal direction, the mags click with the number one prop blade at the 8:00 position when viewed from the front of the plane. On my plane, with the mags properly timed, you cannot orient the prop on the crankshaft so that the mags click with the no.1 blade at 8:00. You can install it so that the mags click at 9:00 or 7:00, but not at 8:00. On my particular plane, the engine vibrates significantly more with the prop installed at the 9:00 position than at the 7:00 position. Therefore, my prop is installed so that the mags click at 7:00.
The prop bolts should be torqued with a calibrated torque wrench using a crisscross pattern. I tighten all of the bolts finger tight, then torque all of the bolts to 25 in-lbs using a crisscross pattern, then to 50 in-lbs, etc, etc. I do the last few pounds in 20 pound increments. I always install new washers every time the prop is reinstalled, as the old washers will be deformed somewhat. I also replace the bolts with new ones if the bolts have been installed 4 or 5 times. After the prop is torqued, but before safety wiring it, I check the prop track. I don't remember what the spec is, but I think it is either 1/8 or 3/16ths of an inch. My particular prop always checks at 1/8th inch , so if it's not 1/8th, then something has changed.
2. I've run all my spark plug wires and am happy with how they all look,
except for the top left side plugs. My old wires were all chewed up from the
tight situation inside the fairing. I can't come up with anything that I
like. What's the best way to handle that situation?
I had the same problem with these plug wires on my airplane. I think that I have a good solution to the problem of the wires chaffing in the holes in the cowling and in the fairings. Aircraft Spruce sells an item that they call "Spring-Fast Grommet Edging". This material is made from spring steel and some type of nylon plastic material and is made to slip onto the edge of sheet metal to prevent wires from chaffing on the edge. I bought Aircraft Spruce P/N MS22529/2-1R which is a 1 foot piece that fits .025 to .036 sheet metal. I installed this grommet material around the plug wire holes in the cowling in all of the areas where the plug wires get near the cowling holes. In some places it was necessary to trim off the metal "fingers" of the grommet where the plug fairing came very close to the edge of the hole in the cowling. Just to make sure that the grommet could not fall out of place, I used Permatex Red High Temp RTV sealant to glue these grommets in place. You can make a pretty good looking installation by smoothing the RTV into the fingers of the grommet so that it forms a smooth beveled shape at the edge of the grommet.
Finally, I wrapped portions of the ignition harness leads with Scotch Brand Number 27 Fiberglass Cloth Electrical Tape. This tape is white glass cloth tape, comes in 1/2 and 3/4 inch widths, and is available at most electrical supply houses. I wrapped the ignition harness leads with this tape from the edge of the spark plug nut, down the lead for about 6 inches. This is enough to insulate the lead where it goes through the cowling and through the spark plug fairing. This tape is very flexible, so it does not interfere with your ability to route the wires where you want them. Because this tape is made of fiberglass, if it should come in contact and chafe on the aluminum cowling, the tape will actually wear the metal of the cowling away. The aluminum will not cut the tape, therefore, the plug wire itself will be protected regardless of any chafing that may be going on. I also used this tape to insulate where the wires pass through the various clamps and holders.
Hope this is of some help.
Best Regards,
Wayne DelRossi
Alon N5618F
Hours logged since restoration: 137.4
Wayne DelRossi
Alon N5618F
Hours logged since restoration: 137.4
============================================================================== To leave this forum go to: http://ercoupers.com/lists.htm
