----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any advice in this forum.]----Thanks, Harry, I couldn't have said it better myself. Oh, that's right, I did say it myself.
Syd
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
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Here are postings I have saved, with links to suppliers and how to sites.Harry FrancisElliston, VAN93530
Gaylon, I now use Nuvite polish applied with a Cyclo polisher, using the Swift Club technique. The
Swift Club markets an excellent instructional videotape plus Nuvite polish, Cyclo polishers and special
polishing cloths. I highly recommend their products. They can be found at
http://www.perfectpolish.com/
Syd Cohen
NC94196----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any advice in this forum.]----
Jeff - As Syd explained, I am Director of Sales & Marketing for Nuvite. I'm the guy the company sends you to for polishing advice... To answer your question: The trick to making a polish job last even though it is in service (Fly Ins, $100 hamburger flights & etc.), is to get the metal "healed up" (-my terminology). An oxidized aluminum surface will look like mountains and valleys under a high power microscope. Old technology polishing techniques -sanding, tripoli, rouges & etc. grind off the tops of the "mountains" to get to an even surface that will reflect light. New technology is that we use various grades of a finishing "compound" to burnish (push the "mountains and valleys" together) into a more reflective surface. We do not degrade the surface of the metal by removing it. After you use the appropriate grade of compound (depends upon the starting condition of the metal to be polished), you use a fine final finish grade of polish whose real claim to fame is the shine and image reflection. Its' final finish capability does not have to be degraded by adding a cleaning grade compound to prepare the surface to take a shine. This is why a single grade polish -like you buy at the auto supply store, is handicapped in its' ultimate performance.
But there is a second -and maybe just as important factor in the advantage of "compounding-then-polishing". As the surface is burnished, it seems to get "tighter" -harder for oxidation to get started. The initial oxidation seen on a typical polish job is the cloudy background that appears. This is called "undercast". Many polish jobs do not remove this cloudiness - the surface is smooth and shiny, but the background is cloudy gray. This is surface oxidation that has been shined up. It won't last long. Oxidation on the aluminum surface breeds more oxidation -fast. The shine goes away as the oxidation proceeds towards a corroded surface -i.e., pitting. If the aluminum surface is very clear, with no undercast, there is no oxidation left on the surface, and with the compounding action also burnishing the surface tighter and tighter, the polish job lasts longer and longer. Usually, after three compounds and polishes, you can count on looking show quality all year with one polish job a year.
But you must take care of a highly polished surface. Never let water (dew, rain, condensation) dry on the surface. It leaves a small etched spot as it dries up, and you will have to compound that etched spot to heal it back up. The same thing happens on paint. But because paint does not have the extreme reflective characteristic of polished metal (-a mirror, after all!), you may not see the etched spots. You can often see the results of this action if you have left your car where a sprinkler system hits it, and then it dries. Owners of polished aircraft usually use one of the synthetic chamois products to dry any water off the surface of the plane. It avoids work, and their shine maintains. The real matter of fact is that, if you once get a really good polish job on aluminum, the care you put into maintaining it is no more than you have to do to maintain a really good paint finish. Although, paint will often let you "slide" a bit, because you cannot see the degradation of your finish as readily as you can on a "mirror" surface. But, boy, does a good polish job bring the attention! - Ask Syd about that...
By the way - We will be polishing Randy Feldpouch's #N87445 "Barbie Doll" Ercoupe in our booth at Oshkosh this year. We always polish an aircraft during Oshkosh to train and demonstrate. Booth # 128 - just south of the Flymarket area, across from McDonalds. Come watch the process!
-Ron
Subj: [COUPERS] "Nuvite Available Here"
Date: 03/14/2001 6:57:54 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Richard Todd)
Reply-to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any advice in this forum.]----
Wing Waxers has a complete stock of all Nuvite Products at a better
price then you will find anywhere. We stock 1 lb cans of all cuts of the
Nuvite aluminum polishes at $42.25 each. Call 800-Wing-Wax for more
information or e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED]. We accept Visa &
MasterCard and ship anywhere via UPS.
Richard Todd
Bill,Polisher - Cyclo:Polish: NuviteInstructions: Swift associationGood luck (you will need it)David Abrams
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://ercoupe.com
XXX
----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any advice in this forum.]----I’m sure this topic as been beaten into the ground in the past. Could someone direct me to a web page or article about how to polish out my Coupe? I am in the middle of the restoration and although it was polished years ago it needs redone. I purchased all the Rolite materials several years back,but have no instructions how to proceed. Any help would be appreciated.
Tim
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