EV Digest 3355
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Zilla Extremes
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Edan 100Ah cells
by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Fwd: Edan 100Ah cells
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Conformal (Re: anyone EVER fried a zilla?)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Wife driving the electric...
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Is this mad? (Re: AC/DC hybrid drive combo?)
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Edan 100Ah cells
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Re: Conformal (Re: anyone EVER fried a zilla?)
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) High Voltage DC/DC
by Fortunat Mueller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
by "" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Is this mad? (Re: AC/DC hybrid drive combo?)
by "Andre Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Edan 100Ah cells
by "Doug Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: High Voltage DC/DC
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
by "Diana Trevino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
by "Diana Trevino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: magnachargers
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
19) Re: Fwd: Edan 100Ah cells
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Is this mad? (Re: AC/DC hybrid drive combo?)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Is this mad? (Re: AC/DC hybrid drive combo?)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) TS 90Ah production?
by Guy Morin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Report: Investigation of breakdown of the SAFT STM5-100 battery
by "privat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Wife driving the electric...
by Don Buckshot <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: Report: Investigation of breakdown of the SAFT STM5-100 battery
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Chrome and stuff
by JD & Heather <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
by "Diana Trevino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Seth Murray wrote:
> Hi Otmar,
>
> Thanks for such a lengthly and interesting response. This motor
> control stuff is really cool and I'm glad you like sharing some of your
> expertise.
Those new to the EV since, say, post nineties, should take note about Oat's expertise
in
controller design and manufacture.
In an era when the standard conversion type EV motor controllers were the Curtis 1221B,
the Auburn Kodiak, and a few other 400-600 amp, 120-156V models by various makers, Oat
blew in with no college degree or other documents to wear on his shoulder (high school
was
too boring for him) and made a controller capable of triple the amperage power levels
and
able of running at before unheard of voltages up 336V! Where it's proven difficult for
major manufacturers with rooms full of engineers to make a controller that runs at 120V
and 400 amps 'and' stays reliable....in between trips to Burning Man to hang with the
artsy fartsy crowd, Oat builds a controller that blows them all into the bushes!
Keep in mind, that when Oat talks of the three controllers that had a problem, one was
hooked up backwards by college students, one was at the cruel hands of Crazy Rod (run
at
super duty loads without its cooling system...tortured), and one was running the
world's
quickest EV...just a bit of a load test! Out of interest, Dennis caught his hair on
fire
when the controller, mounted right behind his head, ignited the wind-fluffed Berube'
hair
ball! How Oat could tell the story of that blown controller and 'not' include the
famous
flaming Berube', is beyond me!
The Zilla controllers power up the most of the world's record setting, quickest EVs
with
over a half megawatt of steady power. They do it without resorting to goofy squeal
inducing frequencies, they do it reliably, and they do it while other controller
manufacturers play catch up to a man that can be found in a seedy unground garage
racing
grocery carts powered by electric motors with flames shooting out the back, cruis'n
through the desert with a couple of au'natural ladies in a 12 foot high electric
tricycle
he just threw together, flying around in a Frankenstein s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d VW bus with a
780 watt sound system pump'n, or popping wheelies in a twin motor electric couch down
College Ave. in Palo Alto!
See Ya......John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Doug,
You need a better crack supplier. Kilo means 1000.
So your 360V/150A nominal current (100Ah) pack would weigh 310kg or
682lbs.
(Sweet :-)
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Martin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, 13 February 2004 3:44 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Edan 100Ah cells
umm... something odd about those 100AH cells when I looked at their
site:
www.edan.com.tw/Product-2002515153759.html... anyone else care to
calculate
the weight of those things? Assuming there are still 100 grams to a kg,
each
one is approximately 31kg. If memory serves, there were approximately
2.2lbs
per kg, bringing each cell to a whopping 68.2lbs. 100AH of lithium would
indeed be a nice thing, but I'd have to electrify a Humvee in order to
accommodate a 6820lb battery pack (of 360V/150amp nominal current for an
AC
setup)! Did I just smoke some bad crack, or is that one heavy-duty EV?
Seeing as how they're not especially large cells physically 20X15X5cm
approximate, I'd guess the weight was misquoted... or they're actually
the
world's first Osmium Ion batteries... ;^)
Anyone want to correct my imperception / misperception?
-Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 3:39 PM
Subject: Fwd: Edan 100Ah cells
> I had been enquiring about Li-Ion cells from edan.com.tw and finally
got a
> reply. If anyone is in need of a high-energy pack, check out the specs
and
get
> a group purchase together - they look better than Thunder-Sky, lower
price,
> lower internal resistance, higher tested cycle life, UL and CE listed,
just
> needs BMS and charger:
>
> ----- Forwarded message from [EMAIL PROTECTED] -----
>
> The battery cells are danger because of their high energy density.
> In the past, we ONLY sell them to manufactuers which are technically
> capabile of handling the cells.
>
> In your case, we must ask you to sign a note to declare that you know
the
> potential danger
> and you know how to use them.
>
> Our quotation is US$175 each with minimum order of 100 cells.
> The price is FOB China or Taiwan depending on our inventory location.
> Since it is very difficult to judge whether a cell is abused,
> we only offer 3 month guarantee for cells which become bad (e.g.
leakage
or
> 0 volt)
> before assmebly. In that case, we will replace them or refund those
bad
> cells
> depending on the situation.
>
> Hsin-chang Lan
> Founder and Chairman, Edan
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you want to do a bulk buy, you can get the TS cell
from everspring marketing
http://www.everspring.net/product-battery-pricing.htm.
at 101 pcs the price drops to $127 per cell plus
shipping, and someone should match the cells before
distributing them. Compared to the Edan cells it's
like four for the price of three.
Gadget
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I had been enquiring about Li-Ion cells from
> edan.com.tw and finally got a
> reply. If anyone is in need of a high-energy pack,
> check out the specs and get
> a group purchase together - they look better than
> Thunder-Sky, lower price,
> lower internal resistance, higher tested cycle life,
> UL and CE listed, just
> needs BMS and charger:
>
> ----- Forwarded message from [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> -----
>
> The battery cells are danger because of their high
> energy density.
> In the past, we ONLY sell them to manufactuers which
> are technically
> capabile of handling the cells.
>
> In your case, we must ask you to sign a note to
> declare that you know the
> potential danger
> and you know how to use them.
>
> Our quotation is US$175 each with minimum order of
> 100 cells.
> The price is FOB China or Taiwan depending on our
> inventory location.
> Since it is very difficult to judge whether a cell
> is abused,
> we only offer 3 month guarantee for cells which
> become bad (e.g. leakage or
> 0 volt)
> before assmebly. In that case, we will replace them
> or refund those bad
> cells
> depending on the situation.
>
> Hsin-chang Lan
> Founder and Chairman, Edan
>
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roland Wiench wrote:
> Hello Lee and others,
>
> In talking about coating's of electronic and electrical equipment,
> what type of coating do you used on battery terminals?
Personally, I use plain old vaseline petroleum jelly. It works as
effectively as the fancier contact greases, and is less messy and
non-toxic.
> Since I went from welded battery links on my 300 AH batteries to
> bolt on links on 244 AH batteries, I find that over 90 percent of
> my maintenance is battery connections.
Very true! Any engineer who designs contacts would tell you that only an
idiot would try to make a high-current high-reliability connector out of
lead :-)
--
"Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
James Jarrett wrote:
> All this talk about wives driving EV's came at a very opportune
> moment. My wife (accompanied by our 9 month old daughter) started
> driving the Henney on errands and the like for the first time
> this week. In all, she says she likes the idea of the EV, and
> the little one seems to love it, but she has two problems with
> driving it. One is the brakes... The other is steering...
I have a very similar experience. My Renault LeCar EV has manual brakes
and steering. My wife loves the idea of EVs, but won't drive it, because
it has manual brakes and manual steering (and a stick shift; but that's
less of a problem because she can just leave it in 2nd gear, ignore the
clutch, and drive).
These problems have nothing to do with it being an EV; they are
consequences of the basic car itself.
--
"Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Since you are talking about AC/DC drives why not a perky DC replacement for
the ICE in a Prius and using both motors in combination should be very
perky. A very fast drag vehicle. The only problem is the Prius Drive train
might not like all that touque. At least you would have regen. I would love
to put an 8 or 9 inch in a Prius with at least a 156v system. Not sure how
many batteries the Prius would take and it might be better to save space and
just use the Prius motor and cap off the ICE input. Anybody done this yet?
Lawrence Rhodes...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: Is this mad? (Re: AC/DC hybrid drive combo?)
> >Jim Coate wrote:
> >>
> >> Well, at least he only said "slightly" mad...
> >>
> >>
> >> - The *available* AC drives don't have near the peak power of the
> >> *available* DC drives. ie AC drive (Siemens) 18-45 KW nominal with 78
KW
> >> peak, versus DC drive (with Zilla) 18-20 KW nominal, 150-250+ KW peak
> >> (think GP).
> >
> >Just a second there!!! the GP has a paper power peak of 2000 amps at 350
> >volts, times 2 drives that's 1.4 MEGA watts!
> >Each Zilla 2K can make 650 Kw. If you can find the batteries to feed one
> >at full snort.
>
> Hey, where's my 2X4?
> Last I saw GP had 2 strings of 240V. It does not have the batteries
> to feed that, and if it did it would weigh more than it does now....
>
> I figure about 140V at 3600A max.
> A paltry 504 Kw electrical.
>
> Can you say Wimpy? :-)
>
> --
> -Otmar-
>
> http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
> http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<<If you want to do a bulk buy, you can get the TS cell
from everspring marketing
http://www.everspring.net/product-battery-pricing.htm.
at 101 pcs the price drops to $127 per cell plus
shipping, and someone should match the cells before
distributing them. Compared to the Edan cells it's
like four for the price of three.
Gadget>>
Yes, but performance is also a consideration: I'd like to see someone do a
comparison test with the Edan cells - an internal resistance of 2mOhms is many
times lower than TS tests out to, they do list >800 cycles to 80% (where TS
lists >500), and if it does handle 150A continuous/500A intermittant, it will
simply outperform a TS pack, hands down. They don't have an importer, so if a
company does commit to them like Everspring did with TS, the price will
probably drop enough in the next couple years that I can replace my lead with
lithium when the time comes. Of course, Victor has already commited to TS, too,
and needs to charge more than Everspring, but if you're really going to buy TS
cells, you should keep metricmind "in mind" so we keep our dollars with the
true enthusiasts.
P.S. - I told the chairman of Edan how to join the EVDL, so maybe he'll
eventually give more specifics (to paraphrase Will Rogers, all I know is what I
read on the website). I also mentioned manzanitamicro to him as folks who can
design BMS and chargers in their sleep.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello David,
I will tried the silicone around the base of the reinforcing collar that
goes around the batery pads with a 3/8 SS bolt stud.
The post on these batterys are not the standard type. It has a connection
through the top of battery to a terminal bar that has a 1 inch diameter pad
with 3/8 bolt stud.
The pad is rises 1/4 inch above the connection bar of which a brass collar
is bolted down, that covers sides and top of pad.
A cable with terminal is than bolted to this collar. It something like a
marine battery terminal, but is bolted down by the battery stud.
I had these custom made.
The NOCO rings do not fit. So I will use the black LEXON silicone at the
seam where the collar and pad joint meets.
I will than used the rubber coating that is use for tool hands over the
remainder connection. This can be cut and peel off in one piece when
removing a cable connection or battery.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Brandt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 11:21 AM
Subject: RE: Conformal (Re: anyone EVER fried a zilla?)
> Hi, roland.
>
> Some time ago, the list recommended (after much debate), a 3-step process
> for connections, to protect against corrosion and keep clean.
>
> The first step was to run a small bead of silicone around the base of each
> post before making the connections. This is just an everyday silicone
> such
> as would be used around the house.
>
> The second was to use the brown, goopy NOCO rings.
>
> The third was to use one of the commercially available spray-on corrosion
> prevention chemicals that are specifically for battery terminals.
>
> I did this when I replaced a pack of T-125's with US125's about 1 1/2
> years
> ago, and have not had any dirt or corrosion problems at all (well, except
> where wasps built a nest on top of one of the batteries. They have built
> nests in the engine compartments of all of our vehicles at one time or
> another, even on the engine blocks of ICE vehicles!).
>
> I sprayed the connection after attaching and torquing the terminals. It
> is
> a waxy substance that repels moisture and acid, but it isn't conductive,
> so
> you want to make the connections before spraying them.
>
> I also have rubber battery boots covering the connections.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Roland Wiench [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 9:23 AM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Conformal (Re: anyone EVER fried a zilla?)
> >
> > Hello Lee and others,
> >
> > In talking about coating's of electronic and electrical
> > equipment, what type of coating do you used on battery terminals?
> >
> > I had been using Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease by
> > coating both terminal and connector. I find that dust clings
> > to this grease and continues to build up.
> >
> > I than coated the whole connector with black and red rubber
> > coating that is use for Plastic Dipping hand tools handles. I
> > leave the stainless steel nut exposed for testing and
> > retorqing as required.
> >
> > Since I went from welded battery links on my 300 AH batteries
> > to bolt on links on 244 AH batteries, I find that over 90
> > percent of my maintenance is battery connections.
> >
> > It's been either retorqing the battery connectors,
> > replacement's of battery studs, reshaping or remolding the
> > post's, checking the current flow of each battery connector
> > by using the shunt test at each connection.
> >
> > Is this the way it is or is there a better way?
> >
> > Roland
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 3:29 PM
> > Subject: Re: Conformal (Re: anyone EVER fried a zilla?)
> >
> >
> > > Jim Coate wrote:
> > > > What exactly is "conformal coating"?
> > >
> > > "Conformal coating" is another name for "paint". It is any
> > coating that
> > > serves to keep water, dirt, bugs, metal shavings, etc. from causing
> > > shorts if it gets on an electronic circuit. Just as bare
> > metal will rust
> > > and raw wood will rot if you leave it outside, circuit boards will
> > > corrode, short out, and fail. That's why you can't take something
> > > designed for indoor use and put it in your car and expect
> > it to survive
> > > for long.
> > >
> > > Just as there are thousands of paints, there are dozens of conformal
> > > coatings. There are epoxies, acrylics, urethanes, silicone
> > rubbers, etc.
> > > Usually, manufacturers pick whatever is the cheapest, and
> > use as little
> > > as possible (acrylics). Sometimes they pick materials that are
> > > impossible to remove (epoxies) so no one can fix it or steal their
> > > circuits.
> > >
> > > If you're doing it yourself, use epoxies when you know you
> > never need to
> > > get it off -- they have the highest moisture and abrasion
> > resistance. If
> > > you *do* want to get it off someday, use a silicone rubber based
> > > material; they will peel right off, and offer excellent moisture
> > > resistance.
> > > --
> > > "Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
> > > world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
> > > --
> > > Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377
> > leeahart_at_earthlink.net
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is a question for you power electronics gurus out
there:
Does anyone know a manufacturer that makes a high
voltage and high power DC/DC converter ?
I actually don't even care what the output voltage is,
so long as it is roughly constant (+/-15% is ok)
regardless of varying input voltage. But i am looking
for a device that can handle input V in the 400+V
input range.
I know the vicor can do it, but I am looking for one
that is about 5x more powerful. Maybe a few kW instead
of a few hundred watts.
any leads ?
thanks
~fortunat
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
Would these magna chargers work to charge the batteries in an Electricar? What output
voltage are they? I am in Texas where they are located. Do they have the paddle
induction? I am trying to help a man fix his Electricars and we need a charger, let me
know if you think they can be modified to charge the 300 volt pack. Thanks, Jack and
Jim.
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 2/12/2004 8:06:48 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
> http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2595897186
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Looking at the AC/DC motor hybrid. Would not just a wound rotor AC motor
give basically all the same advantages?
Andre' B.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Would these magna chargers work to charge the batteries in an Electricar?
That's simple: Lift the rear license plate on a Prizm. If it comes up
and you see a slot behind it you can use a Magnecharger. If not, nope.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Oy. Guess it's time to talk to my dealer. <blushing> Sorry about the
stupidity. That does sound quite nice. Very good to hear from everyone about
all the new Lithium Battery manufacturers coming out of the woodwork. Maybe
if I continue to work on those basic math skills and SI conversion factors
I'll become competent to play with that stuff someday. The LiPolymer
(laminate-type) cells seem to be quite interesting as well...like those that
may become available at LG and that seem to be under development at
http://www.nippondenchi.co.jp/top_e/e_top.asp. The 150A nominal / 300A
maximum current draw that I read (don't remember where) might be possible
with this sort of battery might allow me to continue using my two-string
~120V DC setup with only modification to the charging setup and the addition
of a decent BMS and thermal control setup. All the new battery news is
starting to make me a little more optimistic.
Now on to my more pressing concern: why did I make such a stupid mistake on
a basic metric conversion like that? ...very troubling...
-Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 10:55 AM
Subject: RE: Edan 100Ah cells
> Hi Doug,
>
> You need a better crack supplier. Kilo means 1000.
>
> So your 360V/150A nominal current (100Ah) pack would weigh 310kg or
> 682lbs.
> (Sweet :-)
>
> Mark
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Martin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, 13 February 2004 3:44 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Edan 100Ah cells
>
>
> umm... something odd about those 100AH cells when I looked at their
> site:
> www.edan.com.tw/Product-2002515153759.html... anyone else care to
> calculate
> the weight of those things? Assuming there are still 100 grams to a kg,
> each
> one is approximately 31kg. If memory serves, there were approximately
> 2.2lbs
> per kg, bringing each cell to a whopping 68.2lbs. 100AH of lithium would
> indeed be a nice thing, but I'd have to electrify a Humvee in order to
> accommodate a 6820lb battery pack (of 360V/150amp nominal current for an
> AC
> setup)! Did I just smoke some bad crack, or is that one heavy-duty EV?
> Seeing as how they're not especially large cells physically 20X15X5cm
> approximate, I'd guess the weight was misquoted... or they're actually
> the
> world's first Osmium Ion batteries... ;^)
>
> Anyone want to correct my imperception / misperception?
>
> -Doug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 3:39 PM
> Subject: Fwd: Edan 100Ah cells
>
>
> > I had been enquiring about Li-Ion cells from edan.com.tw and finally
> got a
> > reply. If anyone is in need of a high-energy pack, check out the specs
> and
> get
> > a group purchase together - they look better than Thunder-Sky, lower
> price,
> > lower internal resistance, higher tested cycle life, UL and CE listed,
> just
> > needs BMS and charger:
> >
> > ----- Forwarded message from [EMAIL PROTECTED] -----
> >
> > The battery cells are danger because of their high energy density.
> > In the past, we ONLY sell them to manufactuers which are technically
> > capabile of handling the cells.
> >
> > In your case, we must ask you to sign a note to declare that you know
> the
> > potential danger
> > and you know how to use them.
> >
> > Our quotation is US$175 each with minimum order of 100 cells.
> > The price is FOB China or Taiwan depending on our inventory location.
> > Since it is very difficult to judge whether a cell is abused,
> > we only offer 3 month guarantee for cells which become bad (e.g.
> leakage
> or
> > 0 volt)
> > before assmebly. In that case, we will replace them or refund those
> bad
> > cells
> > depending on the situation.
> >
> > Hsin-chang Lan
> > Founder and Chairman, Edan
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How much continuous power do you need?
Victor
Fortunat Mueller wrote:
>
> This is a question for you power electronics gurus out
> there:
>
> Does anyone know a manufacturer that makes a high
> voltage and high power DC/DC converter ?
>
> I actually don't even care what the output voltage is,
> so long as it is roughly constant (+/-15% is ok)
> regardless of varying input voltage. But i am looking
> for a device that can handle input V in the 400+V
> input range.
>
> I know the vicor can do it, but I am looking for one
> that is about 5x more powerful. Maybe a few kW instead
> of a few hundred watts.
>
> any leads ?
>
> thanks
> ~fortunat
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Its got a slot under the hood that looks like a paddle slides into. Are all
induction chargers the same?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
> > Would these magna chargers work to charge the batteries in an
Electricar?
>
> That's simple: Lift the rear license plate on a Prizm. If it comes up
> and you see a slot behind it you can use a Magnecharger. If not, nope.
>
> Chris
>
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Under the hood? That's interesting. Can you snap a picture of it?
All the Prizms I have seen put the paddle slot and logic in the trunk.
Chris
Diana Trevino wrote:
Its got a slot under the hood that looks like a paddle slides into. Are all
induction chargers the same?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
Would these magna chargers work to charge the batteries in an
Electricar?
That's simple: Lift the rear license plate on a Prizm. If it comes up
and you see a slot behind it you can use a Magnecharger. If not, nope.
Chris
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Its also got an 80kw dolphin that someone said was different. I can get a
picture next week. A little bit of the grill has been cut out to accept the
paddle receptor. (Now sure of the correct terminology, new to EV's.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
> Under the hood? That's interesting. Can you snap a picture of it?
>
> All the Prizms I have seen put the paddle slot and logic in the trunk.
>
> Chris
>
>
> Diana Trevino wrote:
>
> > Its got a slot under the hood that looks like a paddle slides into. Are
all
> > induction chargers the same?
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 2:17 PM
> > Subject: Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
> >
> >
> >
> >>>Would these magna chargers work to charge the batteries in an
> >
> > Electricar?
> >
> >>That's simple: Lift the rear license plate on a Prizm. If it comes up
> >>and you see a slot behind it you can use a Magnecharger. If not, nope.
> >>
> >>Chris
> >>
> >
> >
>
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<<Its got a slot under the hood that looks like a paddle slides into. Are all
induction chargers the same?>>
Other than small or large paddle, and maybe GM vs Toyota's version, there aren't
many other choices!
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Reverend Gadget wrote:
>
> If you want to do a bulk buy, you can get the TS cell
> from everspring marketing
> http://www.everspring.net/product-battery-pricing.htm.
> at 101 pcs the price drops to $127 per cell plus
> shipping, and someone should match the cells before
> distributing them. Compared to the Edan cells it's
> like four for the price of three.
>
> Gadget
Note, this info is outdated. They better know that
90Ah cells are no longer in production for quite a while.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
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Ok, that's interesting. On my Prizm the front radiator section is
intact, that's where the AC condenser and main radiator are.
If it is a real MC port, than any MC paddle will work. There were two
types, a large paddle and a small paddle. The small paddle could work in
large paddle cars with a little carrier thingie that also converted the
optical interface to the large paddle RF standard.
Picture is worth a million words. Take a few and we'll see if we can
figure this out.
Chris
Diana Trevino wrote:
Its also got an 80kw dolphin that someone said was different. I can get a
picture next week. A little bit of the grill has been cut out to accept the
paddle receptor. (Now sure of the correct terminology, new to EV's.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
Under the hood? That's interesting. Can you snap a picture of it?
All the Prizms I have seen put the paddle slot and logic in the trunk.
Chris
Diana Trevino wrote:
Its got a slot under the hood that looks like a paddle slides into. Are
all
induction chargers the same?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
Would these magna chargers work to charge the batteries in an
Electricar?
That's simple: Lift the rear license plate on a Prizm. If it comes up
and you see a slot behind it you can use a Magnecharger. If not, nope.
Chris
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Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> Since you are talking about AC/DC drives why not a perky DC
> replacement for the ICE in a Prius and using both motors in
> combination should be very perky.
The challenge with the Prius is that it is designed as a "closed"
system. No engineering details are available, except by
reverse-engineering. Toyota does not WANT anyone to be able to 'mess
around' with it.
--
"Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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Andre Blanchard wrote:
>
> Looking at the AC/DC motor hybrid. Would not just a wound rotor AC motor
> give basically all the same advantages?
Yes it could; but big ones are rare nowdays.
For those who don't know what this is, a normal car alternator is an
example of a wound-rotor AC motor. Simply short the rotor, and it can be
run as an induction motor (slips, but relatively straightforward to
control). Apply DC power to the rotor, and it runs as a synchronous
motor (more efficient, but harder to control). Lock the rotor, apply AC
to thr stator, and put a bridge rectifier on the rotor winding; it
becomes a transformer.
--
"Never doubt that a small group of committed people can change the
world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has!" -- Margaret Meade
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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Victor Tikhonov wrote:
>
> Reverend Gadget wrote:
> >
> > If you want to do a bulk buy, you can get the TS cell
> > from everspring marketing
> > http://www.everspring.net/product-battery-pricing.htm.
> > at 101 pcs the price drops to $127 per cell plus
> > shipping, and someone should match the cells before
> > distributing them. Compared to the Edan cells it's
> > like four for the price of three.
> >
> > Gadget
>
> Note, this info is outdated. They better know that
> 90Ah cells are no longer in production for quite a while.
>
> --
> Victor
> '91 ACRX - something different
Hi Victor,
Recently, I received some TS 90Ah LiIon cells, Jan 2004
to be more precise. They do not seem to be in danger of
being discontinued. Do you have information to the contrary?
The 50Ah is another story though. These were the batteries
I wanted initially, but the fellow at TS mentioned that
production was going to wait until their new year. Which
should be soon.
How recent is your information?
Regards,
Guy
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I had a similar experience with when I had my Renault LeCar EV. It was
top heavy feeling because some of the (19) batteries were above the
truck floor level and without power assist braking my wife did not drive
it. She has power steering on the Solectria E10 pickup and really likes
driving it, but she drives the Force now every day. I never did feel
safe in the Renault because it was loaded so heavily for the chassis and
those little 3 lug wheels. It was fun and a great 1st EV for me.
Don
Lee Hart wrote:
James Jarrett wrote:
All this talk about wives driving EV's came at a very opportune
moment. My wife (accompanied by our 9 month old daughter) started
driving the Henney on errands and the like for the first time
this week. In all, she says she likes the idea of the EV, and
the little one seems to love it, but she has two problems with
driving it. One is the brakes... The other is steering...
I have a very similar experience. My Renault LeCar EV has manual brakes
and steering. My wife loves the idea of EVs, but won't drive it, because
it has manual brakes and manual steering (and a stick shift; but that's
less of a problem because she can just leave it in 2nd gear, ignore the
clutch, and drive).
These problems have nothing to do with it being an EV; they are
consequences of the basic car itself.
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Wow, that's the first time I have seen this. There are some pictures in
there that look an awful lot like Ralph Merwin's batteries that popped. Of
course Ralph figured that he had just been running at to high of currents as
he was routinely taking them above the 200a continous rating for a few
minutes, but keeping them below the 500a 10 second rating. Perhaps they
were just defective from the beginning, or perhaps these other users were
also pushing too many amps through them. Who knows, it could have been a
combination of the two.
I've pulled a couple out of my pack that have seemed to have their nominal
voltage drop, but I just figured they need a good initialization charge and
I haven't gotten around to trying it yet.
http://www.danskelbilkomite.dk/report.pdf
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Check out the great features of the new MSN 9 Dial-up, with the MSN Dial-up
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Next Question, (I will get the picture asap) Where is the AC voltage
rectified, in the receptacle or the charge controller? We have a small
paddle charger but nothing gets to the batteries. The cable from the
receptacle to the charge controller has a bunch of black leads on one
terminal and a bunch of white leads on one terminal. (I have tried
uselectricar.com for schematics , but no luck on the charge circuit) . There
is neither AC or DC on these leads. I am assuming the AC gets to the charger
controller where it is rectified and sent on to the contactors to the
batteries. A card where the contactors are that come from the charge
controller is fried. I am trying to bypass some things to get the batteries
charged with the one small paddle (1000w) charger that we have untill I can
get another charger. This is a 3/4 ton cheve pickup we are working on. The
prizm is identical except some things are in different places. Neither
vehicle will accept a charge with that paddle charger. I am trying to build
a 400 volt charger to charge the batteries directly.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
> Ok, that's interesting. On my Prizm the front radiator section is
> intact, that's where the AC condenser and main radiator are.
>
> If it is a real MC port, than any MC paddle will work. There were two
> types, a large paddle and a small paddle. The small paddle could work in
> large paddle cars with a little carrier thingie that also converted the
> optical interface to the large paddle RF standard.
>
> Picture is worth a million words. Take a few and we'll see if we can
> figure this out.
>
> Chris
>
>
> Diana Trevino wrote:
>
> > Its also got an 80kw dolphin that someone said was different. I can get
a
> > picture next week. A little bit of the grill has been cut out to accept
the
> > paddle receptor. (Now sure of the correct terminology, new to EV's.)
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 3:04 PM
> > Subject: Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
> >
> >
> >
> >>Under the hood? That's interesting. Can you snap a picture of it?
> >>
> >>All the Prizms I have seen put the paddle slot and logic in the trunk.
> >>
> >>Chris
> >>
> >>
> >>Diana Trevino wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Its got a slot under the hood that looks like a paddle slides into. Are
> >
> > all
> >
> >>>induction chargers the same?
> >>>----- Original Message -----
> >>>From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>>Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 2:17 PM
> >>>Subject: Re: Cheap magnachargers on eBay
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>>Would these magna chargers work to charge the batteries in an
> >>>
> >>>Electricar?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>That's simple: Lift the rear license plate on a Prizm. If it comes up
> >>>>and you see a slot behind it you can use a Magnecharger. If not, nope.
> >>>>
> >>>>Chris
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >
>
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