EV Digest 3404
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Siemens motors on ebay
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Fast charging
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) schabmuller vs Advanced DC
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Siemens motors on ebay
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Siemens motors on ebay
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Siemens motors on ebay
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Siemens motors on ebay
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) EV grin
by Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Generators with BLDC
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Catapiller DC Electric Motor
by "Diana Trevino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Siemens motors on ebay
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Siemens motors on ebay
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Siemens motors on ebay
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Siemens motors on ebay
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Generators with BLDC
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Donor Car Recommendation
by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Siemens motors on ebay
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Catapiller DC Electric Motor
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) E-meter alternatives
by "John Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Donor Car Recommendation
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: Donor Car Recommendation
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: BLDC/ AC induction drive development
by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: BLDC/ AC induction drive development
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: BLDC/ AC induction drive development
by Alex Karahalios <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: BLDC/ AC induction drive development
by Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Donor Car Recommendation
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: schabmuller vs Advanced DC
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Catapiller DC Electric Motor
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Donor Car Recommendation
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) RE: Donor Car Recommendation
by "Jorg Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
looks like standard final drive stuff in v6 FWD fords. I agree, Lots of
fun re-inventing the final ratio case. he has 6 maybe after he sells or
fails to sell the first 4, we can get a better price, I think $2000 is a
little much for pieces
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>You can find a 100Kw + BLDC drive????
My father just retired and he is really excited about
building a big motor controller. he was one of the
early pioneers in microfiche. the latest stuff he had
been working with was high powered lasers.
he just found a local company that builds really big
bldc motors up to about 4 ft long and 18 inches in
diameter.
I'm going to try and make time to go down and talk to
the manufacturer soon.
Gadget
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Gonna answer my own question here. I called thunderstruck and they were
in today. motor only weights 95 lbs, it has a shorter operatioal section
than the ADC and was designed to run on 36 volts. less torque than ADC
and probably 156Volt max. I would need 2.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Otmar wrote:
>
> At 11:38 AM -0800 3-13-04, Rich Rudman wrote:
> >Or those of us controller designers that would love to have a test mule.
> >I just had to use explorer... Yuk Gates stuff!!! to view the motor, and
> >it is a water cooled motor, and for $200 I would own one right now. $2K
> >not a chance,
>
> Hey Rich,
> That's odd, the pictures came up fine using iCab, and Opera too, No
> need for gates stuff.
>
> As for motors, you know how it goes, once you've pulled on apart it
> just sits around until there is time to build a controller.
>
> I've got some nice water cooled GM EV-1 motors sitting here, one is
> even taken apart. You're welcome to check it out next time you visit.
>
> I'm sure I have some pictures around here somewhere if I dig them up.
>
> --
> -Otmar-
>
> http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
> http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Zilla controllers in production, see them here.
No Otmar, I wanna take it home and overheat the insulation and bend some
stuff on the Dyno....Looking is cheap....touching and playing with
stuff, is the real thing.
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That output shaft is hollow. not a lot of meat to cut
off. in fact when I say the thing sitting on the table
I was surprised at the thin tube they were calling the
output. I didn't see the other end as they had a plug
in it and it's still not very clear in the picture.
Gadget
Now that I look at it, I wonder how it was set up?
I'm guessing that it had a coaxial planetary gear driving a
differential with one of the output shafts from the diff going
through the hollow motor shaft to a CV joint on the other side of the
motor. The extra cast flange on the output side could have held the
parking pawl.
Sure would have been a nice setup if it was complete.
One way to adapt it might be to press a shaft in the drive end hole
and weld it to the existing gear. Not short, but quick and easy.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Zilla controllers in production, see them here.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I think I'll go down and talk to the guy and see if I
can get one cheap to play with, on the premise that I
might buy the whole lot. If I can get one to work
mechanically without to much hassle maybe I will. you
wanna build controllers?
Gadget
--- Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >That output shaft is hollow. not a lot of meat to
> cut
> >off. in fact when I say the thing sitting on the
> table
> >I was surprised at the thin tube they were calling
> the
> >output. I didn't see the other end as they had a
> plug
> >in it and it's still not very clear in the picture.
> >
> > Gadget
>
> Now that I look at it, I wonder how it was set up?
>
> I'm guessing that it had a coaxial planetary gear
> driving a
> differential with one of the output shafts from the
> diff going
> through the hollow motor shaft to a CV joint on the
> other side of the
> motor. The extra cast flange on the output side
> could have held the
> parking pawl.
>
> Sure would have been a nice setup if it was
> complete.
>
> One way to adapt it might be to press a shaft in the
> drive end hole
> and weld it to the existing gear. Not short, but
> quick and easy.
>
> --
> -Otmar-
>
> http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
> http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Zilla controllers in
> production, see them here.
>
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 2:39 PM -0800 3-13-04, Reverend Gadget wrote:
I think I'll go down and talk to the guy and see if I
can get one cheap to play with, on the premise that I
might buy the whole lot. If I can get one to work
mechanically without to much hassle maybe I will. you
wanna build controllers?
Gadget
I'm already working on a controller. Give it at least a year though.
I need to test it on these EV-1 motors in my Insight first..
If the price comes way down they could be an option.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Zilla controllers in production, see them here.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ok, Bob Rice dropped off my EV today. A White 1980 Electro Auto kit
rabbit ( I think) with a small DC motor (6.7") and 72V and a Curtis
(1209B, I think) and Trojan batteries. A mix and match of batteries,
this was the car that burned a while back.
The body needs some attention and the 12V electrics, too. But it runs
and drives and I am happy. Shod with Invicta GLR tires, too. I am
surprised that it doesn't feel heavier with all that lead in it.
EV Grinning
Seth Allen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a 10hp electric start Tecumseh motor
and an Ametek BLDC motor with Neodymium rotor
that I plan on using.
Special thanks to Dave Stensland and Alain st. Ives
for their generator ideas.
I am looking for some advice on the output stage.
I have many IR 90MT80K 3 phase input, 90A, 800V diode
power modules and a slew of Capacitors.
I plan on experimenting, but I'm wondering if anybody
has connected a BLDC motor to an ICE engine for
generating DC.
If nobody has done this on the list I guess I'll
report the results of my adventure.
Thanks,
Rod
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I also have 3 ,12 hp forklift motors I got off ebay a while back. But they
are compound wound. I had one of these hooked up in my 42' yacht and ran it
on 12 volts only. I had a switch where I could put the shunt field in and
out of the circuit just for experimentation. The old Owens 42' Yacht went 5
mph for long periods on 12 volts. I always wanted to up the voltage but
never got around to it. I have since sold the Yacht. Now I am going to use
one of these in an electric car I am building. Any comments on this compound
wound motor(72V)(12HP) for an EV? Would this motor have a peak Hp of around
30 at 72V? I guess I will find out eventually but any comments would be
appreiciated, Jack
Negative 48 LC.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: Catapiller DC Electric Motor
> Hello to All,
>
> As the resident forklift repair dude, I'll step in on this.
>
> 1sclunn wrote:
>
> > ....sombody who wanted to know about useing a Catapiller DC
> > Electric Motor, 10 Horse power,Working Volts 36 - 48 volts. 1550-2180
RPM's
> > For Electric Lift Truck....Size of motor, 13.0"
> > long, X 11.0" dia. X (90.0 lbs)....would this
> > compare to a 6.7 adc?
>
> >From James Massey:
>
> >Aack! 6.7"! I doubt it, more like a 9"!
>
> I agree with James.
>
> >The thing they need to look for on
> >the nameplate is to be sure that the 10hp rating is continuous, not 15
min.
>
> James, forklift motors are all rated at the expected 'continuous duty', so
this motor can
> run at 10 hp, virtually, all day long if necessary.
>
> >if 15 min, then it'd be the hydraulic motor, designed for high torque
> >short duty time.
>
> Correction (friendly, of course)....hydraulic motors as used in forklifts,
are by no
> means, considered intermittent duty, and in fact, are most often even more
robust and able
> to run non-stop, than are the traction motors in the drive units. I see
electric forklifts
> in operation every day, and trust me, some of my accounts have those pump
motors running
> continuously.....reach in (hydraulic pump on)....secure load and lift
(hydraulic pump
> on)...raise up (1000's of lbs....hydraulic pump on)....lower load, reach
back (hydraulic
> pump on)...lower forks (hydraulic pump still on, though light
load)...then,
> repeat....hours and hours at a time!
>
> 1sclunn wrote:
>
> > The difference is that this is likely to be heavier than a 9", and lower
> > peak current, and they may need to get the rotor balance checked and run
it
> > to 5000RPM.
>
>
> I'm a bit confused. I thought the motor is 90 lbs.? If it is, that sure
sounds light from
> what I've seen in the Cat brand lift trucks I service. The 11 inch motors
weigh more like
> 175 lbs., or about 30 'more' lbs. than a 9 inch.
>
>
> > They're looking for somthing to go 45mph , in a light car.
>
> Pretty much all forklift traction motors are very robust, and are timed at
neutral for max
> torque. If you take that Cat motor and advance the timing, it should be
good for higher
> voltage operation. They are wound with fewer turns of wire than our EV
specific motors, so
> at voltages over 100 or so, they'd really suck some amps! At 96V though,
and with the
> timing set properly, this motor would made a nice EV drive motor.
>
> >And use a Z1K, so they can keep the motor parameters under control.
>
> Heck, I'd use a Zilla just because it's the best controller made, period!
>
> See Ya.......John Wayland
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Funny, same thing I thought of doing over 1.5 years ago. Buy the lot and see
if Otmar wanted to design a controller for them or source one from somewhere
else and try and market them as complete usable units. But when I tried to
contact the seller I got the message that they had already been sold. Hope
you have better luck, maybe this guy is the one that ended up with all of
them. Be careful what you offer to pay for them tho.I can tell you that the
original purchaser bought them for scrap. Regards, David Chapman.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reverend Gadget" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: Siemens motors on ebay
> I think I'll go down and talk to the guy and see if I
> can get one cheap to play with, on the premise that I
> might buy the whole lot. If I can get one to work
> mechanically without to much hassle maybe I will. you
> wanna build controllers?
>
> Gadget
> --- Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >That output shaft is hollow. not a lot of meat to
> > cut
> > >off. in fact when I say the thing sitting on the
> > table
> > >I was surprised at the thin tube they were calling
> > the
> > >output. I didn't see the other end as they had a
> > plug
> > >in it and it's still not very clear in the picture.
> > >
> > > Gadget
> >
> > Now that I look at it, I wonder how it was set up?
> >
> > I'm guessing that it had a coaxial planetary gear
> > driving a
> > differential with one of the output shafts from the
> > diff going
> > through the hollow motor shaft to a CV joint on the
> > other side of the
> > motor. The extra cast flange on the output side
> > could have held the
> > parking pawl.
> >
> > Sure would have been a nice setup if it was
> > complete.
> >
> > One way to adapt it might be to press a shaft in the
> > drive end hole
> > and weld it to the existing gear. Not short, but
> > quick and easy.
> >
> > --
> > -Otmar-
> >
> > http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
> > http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Zilla controllers in
> > production, see them here.
> >
>
>
> =====
> visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My offer was $ 100 ea. and take em all. Too bad, I am sure you would have
liked to have a potential 160 controller customers. Oh well, lets see what
happens. David Chapman.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 2:51 AM
Subject: Re: Siemens motors on ebay
> At 4:07 PM -0800 3-12-04, Jeff Shanab wrote:
> >hey victor, look!
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46098&ite
m=2466585654
>
>
> Is it just me, or does anyone else think his price ten times too high?
>
> As a base I think it would be worth about $50 for scrap metal.
>
> Considering it doesn't have an inverter and you need to adapt to a
> terrible shaft I think they are worth about $200 each for EV use. I
> don't see any other market. I'm guessing these resellers are looking
> for a lot of profit, I doubt a informed person would pay much over
> scrap value for them.
>
> Just my 2 watt hours.
> --
> -Otmar-
>
> http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
> http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Zilla controllers in production, see them
here.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That's why I'd like to get one to play with first.
Gadget
--- David Chapman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Funny, same thing I thought of doing over 1.5 years
> ago. Buy the lot and see
> if Otmar wanted to design a controller for them or
> source one from somewhere
> else and try and market them as complete usable
> units. But when I tried to
> contact the seller I got the message that they had
> already been sold. Hope
> you have better luck, maybe this guy is the one that
> ended up with all of
> them. Be careful what you offer to pay for them
> tho.I can tell you that the
> original purchaser bought them for scrap. Regards,
> David Chapman.
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My offer was $ 100 ea. and take em all. Too bad, I am sure you would have
liked to have a potential 160 controller customers. Oh well, lets see what
happens. David Chapman.
You spend high, I think I only offered $80 each for the lot, and back
then he still had them.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com
Mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rod Hower wrote:
>
> I have a 10hp electric start Tecumseh motor
> and an Ametek BLDC motor with Neodymium rotor
> that I plan on using.
> Special thanks to Dave Stensland and Alain st. Ives
> for their generator ideas.
> I am looking for some advice on the output stage.
> I have many IR 90MT80K 3 phase input, 90A, 800V diode
> power modules and a slew of Capacitors.
> I plan on experimenting, but I'm wondering if anybody
> has connected a BLDC motor to an ICE engine for
> generating DC.
> If nobody has done this on the list I guess I'll
> report the results of my adventure.
> Thanks,
> Rod
I've done a BLDC into a rectifier and then a load bank resistor. The
look just like Perm Mag Burshed motors. The Faster you spin them the
more volts they make, No field exite needed. Open circuiting them can
give you some pretty high peak voltages. Pick a voltage higher than your
needs or you won't get the power out with out some boost, or way too
amny RPMs.
Joe and I did some single cyclender Generator work, becarfull about the
motor rotational accelerations. A single Lung can have some really nasty
jerks on the power stroke.
This is what ate all the 25 Kw 208 3 phase alternators from about 6
years ago. They twisted off the drive shafts way before they got to peak
power. Multi Lung engines don't do this. Make your drive shafts about 2x
stronger than you think you need, and don't lug the Ice until you are
almost at your full speed.
I can Beat the crap out of a BLDC with a AvDC right about now. What
needs to be known??
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Don,
I'm 6'2", and I find plenty of legroom in my Mom's '87 Civic sedan. So
much so, I've just purchased an '88 Civic Wagon for my own conversion.
I drive a '90 Geo Prizm hatchback. I can't stretch my legs all the way
out, but I'm pretty comfortable. The big difference is that my Geo has
a center console that gives me a place to rest my right leg (just below
my right knee), whereas the Civic had nothing. It felt bigger, but with
less support. I love my Geo, and if I could just fix the leak in the
hatchback after that stupid rear-ender, I'd be converting it.
Actually, you'd be surprised how many crazy people I found when I was
asking if I could please sit in their cars. I got to sit in a Subara
Impreza (the seats are too narrow) and Outback (very nice), a VW Jetta
wagon (very comfortable, but also a brand-new model that I couldn't
possibly afford), a Ford Escort wagon (not bad at all -- a different fit
than my Geo, but no smaller; just different) and a couple of other
things, too.
Jude
EVirgin
Mike Chancey wrote:
Hey Don, how about a Civic? Good room, and a family of similar models
to share parts from.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Solectria Force (almost there)
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lol, I guess great minds really DO think alike. I like your position better
tho, you can build the controllers inhouse. I would have had to take you in
as a partner. Still, would have been nice to kick off an AC controller
design with a 160 piece run, huh? Oh well, when you get ready to do a
SEP-EX controller I still have the G-vans with the Nelcos to use as test
mules. TTYL, David Chapman.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: Siemens motors on ebay
> >My offer was $ 100 ea. and take em all. Too bad, I am sure you would have
> >liked to have a potential 160 controller customers. Oh well, lets see
what
> >happens. David Chapman.
>
> You spend high, I think I only offered $80 each for the lot, and back
> then he still had them.
>
> --
> -Otmar-
> http://www.CafeElectric.com
> Mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Do you have any more info on these motors?
I worked for Caterpillar from 1989-1992 developing
forklift controls, some of them compound wound.
Rod
--- Diana Trevino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I also have 3 ,12 hp forklift motors I got off ebay
> a while back. But they
> are compound wound. I had one of these hooked up in
> my 42' yacht and ran it
> on 12 volts only. I had a switch where I could put
> the shunt field in and
> out of the circuit just for experimentation. The old
> Owens 42' Yacht went 5
> mph for long periods on 12 volts. I always wanted to
> up the voltage but
> never got around to it. I have since sold the Yacht.
> Now I am going to use
> one of these in an electric car I am building. Any
> comments on this compound
> wound motor(72V)(12HP) for an EV? Would this motor
> have a peak Hp of around
> 30 at 72V? I guess I will find out eventually but
> any comments would be
> appreiciated, Jack
> Negative 48 LC.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 8:55 PM
> Subject: Re: Catapiller DC Electric Motor
>
>
> > Hello to All,
> >
> > As the resident forklift repair dude, I'll step in
> on this.
> >
> > 1sclunn wrote:
> >
> > > ....sombody who wanted to know about useing a
> Catapiller DC
> > > Electric Motor, 10 Horse power,Working Volts 36
> - 48 volts. 1550-2180
> RPM's
> > > For Electric Lift Truck....Size of motor, 13.0"
> > > long, X 11.0" dia. X (90.0 lbs)....would this
> > > compare to a 6.7 adc?
> >
> > >From James Massey:
> >
> > >Aack! 6.7"! I doubt it, more like a 9"!
> >
> > I agree with James.
> >
> > >The thing they need to look for on
> > >the nameplate is to be sure that the 10hp rating
> is continuous, not 15
> min.
> >
> > James, forklift motors are all rated at the
> expected 'continuous duty', so
> this motor can
> > run at 10 hp, virtually, all day long if
> necessary.
> >
> > >if 15 min, then it'd be the hydraulic motor,
> designed for high torque
> > >short duty time.
> >
> > Correction (friendly, of course)....hydraulic
> motors as used in forklifts,
> are by no
> > means, considered intermittent duty, and in fact,
> are most often even more
> robust and able
> > to run non-stop, than are the traction motors in
> the drive units. I see
> electric forklifts
> > in operation every day, and trust me, some of my
> accounts have those pump
> motors running
> > continuously.....reach in (hydraulic pump
> on)....secure load and lift
> (hydraulic pump
> > on)...raise up (1000's of lbs....hydraulic pump
> on)....lower load, reach
> back (hydraulic
> > pump on)...lower forks (hydraulic pump still on,
> though light
> load)...then,
> > repeat....hours and hours at a time!
> >
> > 1sclunn wrote:
> >
> > > The difference is that this is likely to be
> heavier than a 9", and lower
> > > peak current, and they may need to get the rotor
> balance checked and run
> it
> > > to 5000RPM.
> >
> >
> > I'm a bit confused. I thought the motor is 90
> lbs.? If it is, that sure
> sounds light from
> > what I've seen in the Cat brand lift trucks I
> service. The 11 inch motors
> weigh more like
> > 175 lbs., or about 30 'more' lbs. than a 9 inch.
> >
> >
> > > They're looking for somthing to go 45mph , in a
> light car.
> >
> > Pretty much all forklift traction motors are very
> robust, and are timed at
> neutral for max
> > torque. If you take that Cat motor and advance the
> timing, it should be
> good for higher
> > voltage operation. They are wound with fewer turns
> of wire than our EV
> specific motors, so
> > at voltages over 100 or so, they'd really suck
> some amps! At 96V though,
> and with the
> > timing set properly, this motor would made a nice
> EV drive motor.
> >
> > >And use a Z1K, so they can keep the motor
> parameters under control.
> >
> > Heck, I'd use a Zilla just because it's the best
> controller made, period!
> >
> > See Ya.......John Wayland
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
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I'm a fan of the 92-95 Civic
(http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord). It has
an airbag, comes in hatch, sedan, and coupe models,
and by the time you pull the block, has over 1,000
lbs. of GVWR left for batteries. Besides, I have a
journal and video I've kept ($12) about how to go
about it. I'm 6'1", and need to have legroom. I play
bass & guitar, and need space for amps and guitars.
Best to you on your decision.
--- Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am still hunting for my donor car. I want to use
> a small light, car
> 2dr hatchback with enough room for a 6'2" driver.
> Max 2 passengers. I
> have been looking at Geo Metros, Fireflys and Swifts
> (1995 and better)
> however the payload is not all that good. The Mazda
> 323 payload looks
> better. Anybody have any other suggestions or
> recommendations?
>
> thanks
> Don
>
=====
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
(in progress)! ____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you
saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
http://mail.yahoo.com
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Everyone - thanks for the great feedback. I lucked out and found a late
model Firefly (Geo) with a body, interior, steering, suspension in great
condition, but with the drivetrain in rough shape. I am very happy with
the price I paid.
Of all the cars I looked at, the dealers/owners were quite confused when
I looked hard at the space and payload capacities of the car - they were
very interested in why I needed the car. I didn't reveal a thing: I
just replied "I just want a cheap car to drive (lightweight), must be a
hatchback (for the dog), and have a decent payload capacity - because in
my job I carry around a lot of heavy batteries!" They just nodded
their heads and blabbed on aout how great the car was...
I still am planning out motor types, sizes, batteries etc. But the real
hard part is to get another contract so I can start buying parts.
Thanks for your help
Don.
On Mar 12, 2004, at 1:11 PM, Don Cameron wrote:
> I am still hunting for my donor car. I want to use a small light, car
> 2dr hatchback with enough room for a 6'2" driver. Max 2 passengers. I
> have been looking at Geo Metros, Fireflys and Swifts (1995 and better)
> however the payload is not all that good. The Mazda 323 payload looks
> better. Anybody have any other suggestions or recommendations?
>
> thanks
> Don
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Seth (and list),
Just digging through my EV List emails and looks like I forgot to reply
to this one. I would be interested in a board to fool around with, and
I imagine I could get my roommates in on it too. Just itching to play
with my new (used) soldering station :-) Now where to get an
appropriate size motor to drive with it?
seth
On Thursday, February 26, 2004, at 07:05 AM, Seth wrote:
A generous list member (Rod) has posted some of his work in a Yahoo
group and it is a complete 3 phase drive system design, minus the
software. Right now, it is set up for 2 pair of FETs per leg. He can
correct me if I am wrong, but I am pretty sure it could do AC
induction also. Call it bike/kart power level, but voltage levels up
to just below 200V. Might make a learning project for list members,
drives for brushless aircon compressors, and light EVs.
So a few memebers have been talking off-line and in the spirit of
feature creep, want to tweak a thing or 2, like FET packages. We will
probably get boards made for SOT-227B (ISOTOP) power transistors. ( A
bit more power) Is anyone else interested? I know some people want to
develop AC drives long term and this has that nice TI '2402 DSP on it.
Right now I just want to see if anyone else wants in on a board buy to
bring the per-piece price down. You are on your own for soldering and
software, although I belive some sort of starter code is available
from TI?
So, is anyone interested?
Seth Allen
--
QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
'72 Datsun 240Z Conversion
http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
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Seth,
I'm also interested since I have a couple
of tubes of 200V SOT-227 (IXYS parts).
Perhaps we could work out a trade, MOSFET's
for a board?.
Thanks,
Rod
P.S. Keith, if your listening this board would
be a nice fit for your solar car.
--- Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Seth (and list),
>
> Just digging through my EV List emails and looks
> like I forgot to reply
> to this one. I would be interested in a board to
> fool around with, and
> I imagine I could get my roommates in on it too.
> Just itching to play
> with my new (used) soldering station :-) Now where
> to get an
> appropriate size motor to drive with it?
>
> seth
>
>
> On Thursday, February 26, 2004, at 07:05 AM, Seth
> wrote:
>
> > A generous list member (Rod) has posted some of
> his work in a Yahoo
> > group and it is a complete 3 phase drive system
> design, minus the
> > software. Right now, it is set up for 2 pair of
> FETs per leg. He can
> > correct me if I am wrong, but I am pretty sure it
> could do AC
> > induction also. Call it bike/kart power level,
> but voltage levels up
> > to just below 200V. Might make a learning project
> for list members,
> > drives for brushless aircon compressors, and light
> EVs.
> >
> > So a few memebers have been talking off-line and
> in the spirit of
> > feature creep, want to tweak a thing or 2, like
> FET packages. We will
> > probably get boards made for SOT-227B (ISOTOP)
> power transistors. ( A
> > bit more power) Is anyone else interested? I know
> some people want to
> > develop AC drives long term and this has that nice
> TI '2402 DSP on it.
> > Right now I just want to see if anyone else wants
> in on a board buy to
> > bring the per-piece price down. You are on your
> own for soldering and
> > software, although I belive some sort of starter
> code is available
> > from TI?
> >
> > So, is anyone interested?
> >
> >
> >
> > Seth Allen
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
> '72 Datsun 240Z Conversion
> http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
>
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Which Yahoo group would this be? I would like to preview the design.
Alex Karahalios
On Mar 14, 2004, at 9:11 AM, Seth Murray wrote:
Just digging through my EV List emails and looks like I forgot to
reply to this one. I would be interested in a board to fool around
with, and I imagine I could get my roommates in on it too. Just
itching to play with my new (used) soldering station :-) Now where to
get an appropriate size motor to drive with it?
On Thursday, February 26, 2004, at 07:05 AM, Seth wrote:
A generous list member (Rod) has posted some of his work in a Yahoo
group and it is a complete 3 phase drive system design, minus the
software.
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I never heard from anyone, so I figured no one was interested and was
puzzled.
Yeah, I can do a tweak for ISOTOPs. It is in the "project queue":)
More people in on a board buy is better to keep the per part price down
this is a very good thing!
Gotta run now, but I will post more about this today/ tomorrow.
Ultimately looking at a different top board *long term*, but with Rod
Hower '2402 based design for now.
Remember, it is bring your own software, but I suspect there are enough
list resources to get that part done, and the TI starter SW that I hear
about but haven't seen...
Seth Allen
(the one with the Rabbit, not the Z car)
On Mar 14, 2004, at 11:11 AM, Seth Murray wrote:
Seth (and list),
Just digging through my EV List emails and looks like I forgot to
reply to this one. I would be interested in a board to fool around
with, and I imagine I could get my roommates in on it too. Just
itching to play with my new (used) soldering station :-) Now where to
get an appropriate size motor to drive with it?
seth
On Thursday, February 26, 2004, at 07:05 AM, Seth wrote:
A generous list member (Rod) has posted some of his work in a Yahoo
group and it is a complete 3 phase drive system design, minus the
software. Right now, it is set up for 2 pair of FETs per leg. He can
correct me if I am wrong, but I am pretty sure it could do AC
induction also. Call it bike/kart power level, but voltage levels up
to just below 200V. Might make a learning project for list members,
drives for brushless aircon compressors, and light EVs.
So a few memebers have been talking off-line and in the spirit of
feature creep, want to tweak a thing or 2, like FET packages. We will
probably get boards made for SOT-227B (ISOTOP) power transistors. ( A
bit more power) Is anyone else interested? I know some people want
to develop AC drives long term and this has that nice TI '2402 DSP on
it. Right now I just want to see if anyone else wants in on a board
buy to bring the per-piece price down. You are on your own for
soldering and software, although I belive some sort of starter code
is available from TI?
So, is anyone interested?
Seth Allen
--
QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
'72 Datsun 240Z Conversion
http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
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The second car I converted was a Meruary lynx , with 20 golf cart batteries
and a 400 amp curtis , I one time drove this car 90 miles to get to a EV
rally , and it had no problem going 70 mph but felt a little like a skate
board over 55. I'm 6'1" and had lots of room. I had no clutch and left in in
2nd gear all the time excet when driving over 60 mph .
steve clunn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 1:11 PM
Subject: Donor Car Recommendation
> I am still hunting for my donor car. I want to use a small light, car
> 2dr hatchback with enough room for a 6'2" driver. Max 2 passengers. I
> have been looking at Geo Metros, Fireflys and Swifts (1995 and better)
> however the payload is not all that good. The Mazda 323 payload looks
> better. Anybody have any other suggestions or recommendations?
>
> thanks
> Don
>
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This sounds like the motor I used in the hynda xl that is Russ Weavers now .
I have it now again as we put a net gain 9 in its place , becuse of the
tapered shaft I had a hub made which cost me $ 500 , look in the album and
if its the same motor I can give you more info or woud sell motor and hub
for $400
steve clunn .
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: schabmuller vs Advanced DC
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "EVlist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 8:32 AM
> Subject: schabmuller vs Advanced DC
>
>
> > Anyone know about the schabmuller 10" motor? as it compares to Advanced
> > DC 9"
> >
> > if this price is still good, it might be a choice for my 300zx
conversion
> >
> > http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/shabmuller.htm
> >
> The web page says this motor weighs 95 lbs which is about two-thirds the
> weight of an ADC 9- inch and close to the weight of of an ADC 6.7-inch
> motor.
> I'd expect its performance to match the 6.7-inch ADC.
>
> The webpage says it has a tapered shaft which could be a serious
challenge.
> Has
> anybody on this list managed to use a tapered shaft motor for an EV?
>
> Tom Shay
>
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Thanks John , I passed it on , and an invite to join the list , I get a lot
of " join the list , I'll just ask you " .
They just don't know what there missing.
Steve clunn
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: Catapiller DC Electric Motor
> Hello to All,
>
> As the resident forklift repair dude, I'll step in on this.
>
> 1sclunn wrote:
>
> > ....sombody who wanted to know about useing a Catapiller DC
> > Electric Motor, 10 Horse power,Working Volts 36 - 48 volts. 1550-2180
RPM's
> > For Electric Lift Truck....Size of motor, 13.0"
> > long, X 11.0" dia. X (90.0 lbs)....would this
> > compare to a 6.7 adc?
>
> >From James Massey:
>
> >Aack! 6.7"! I doubt it, more like a 9"!
>
> I agree with James.
>
> >The thing they need to look for on
> >the nameplate is to be sure that the 10hp rating is continuous, not 15
min.
>
> James, forklift motors are all rated at the expected 'continuous duty', so
this motor can
> run at 10 hp, virtually, all day long if necessary.
>
> >if 15 min, then it'd be the hydraulic motor, designed for high torque
> >short duty time.
>
> Correction (friendly, of course)....hydraulic motors as used in forklifts,
are by no
> means, considered intermittent duty, and in fact, are most often even more
robust and able
> to run non-stop, than are the traction motors in the drive units. I see
electric forklifts
> in operation every day, and trust me, some of my accounts have those pump
motors running
> continuously.....reach in (hydraulic pump on)....secure load and lift
(hydraulic pump
> on)...raise up (1000's of lbs....hydraulic pump on)....lower load, reach
back (hydraulic
> pump on)...lower forks (hydraulic pump still on, though light
load)...then,
> repeat....hours and hours at a time!
>
> 1sclunn wrote:
>
> > The difference is that this is likely to be heavier than a 9", and lower
> > peak current, and they may need to get the rotor balance checked and run
it
> > to 5000RPM.
>
>
> I'm a bit confused. I thought the motor is 90 lbs.? If it is, that sure
sounds light from
> what I've seen in the Cat brand lift trucks I service. The 11 inch motors
weigh more like
> 175 lbs., or about 30 'more' lbs. than a 9 inch.
>
>
> > They're looking for somthing to go 45mph , in a light car.
>
> Pretty much all forklift traction motors are very robust, and are timed at
neutral for max
> torque. If you take that Cat motor and advance the timing, it should be
good for higher
> voltage operation. They are wound with fewer turns of wire than our EV
specific motors, so
> at voltages over 100 or so, they'd really suck some amps! At 96V though,
and with the
> timing set properly, this motor would made a nice EV drive motor.
>
> >And use a Z1K, so they can keep the motor parameters under control.
>
> Heck, I'd use a Zilla just because it's the best controller made, period!
>
> See Ya.......John Wayland
>
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Cameron"
, the dealers/owners were quite confused when
> I looked hard at the space and payload capacities of the car - they were
> very interested in why I needed the car.
I one time told a used car dealer I was looking for a lightweight car with a
bad engine he said "well really all these cars have bad engines " them car
dealers , they'll say anything to sell a car.
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>> the dealers/owners were quite confused when
>> I looked hard at the space and payload capacities of the car - they
were
>> very interested in why I needed the car.
>
> I one time told a used car dealer I was looking for a lightweight car
with a
> bad engine he said "well really all these cars have bad engines" them
car
> dealers, they'll say anything to sell a car.
Man, that is just about the funniest thing I've seen posted on this
list.
...
But I hate people who just post to a list with nothing to say that's
relevant to the topic, so I have to add:
> I am still hunting for my donor car. I want to use a small light, car
> 2dr hatchback with enough room for a 6'2" driver. Max 2 passengers.
If you need 2 passengers, then of course the 914 won't fit the bill.
But other than that... the 914 is really light and has tons of space
because the center engine gives you both front and rear trunk space.
And in the front, the space is very low to the ground, which helps get
nice, low, center of gravity.
In addition to checking for rust, one thing you want to be very aware
of, if you're looking at a 914 conversion, is the condition of the
brakes. It turns out the brake rotors are hard-as-hell (or
expensive-as-hell) to repair. I bought a 914 with a semi-problematic
engine for only $1500 and thought it was a good deal until I found out
the brakes would cost more than that if I tried to get Porsche to
replace them. Fortunately my mechanic has good connections, and found a
way to get them reasonably repaired for "only" $500... but I'll never
look at the words "brakes occasionally stick" the same way again.
(Side note: since then I talked to Ottmar and he found an even cheaper
route for repair, though it involved labor that I couldn't do on my
own.)
jorg
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