EV Digest 3631
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Another cheap (little) LiIon cell
by "Peter Eckhoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: "Sucking Amps" to Air Again
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Boost Pack Circuit
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Another cheap (little) LiIon cell
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Another cheap (little) LiIon cell
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) re: Wound Rotor
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: "Sucking Amps" to Air Again
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Another cheap (little) LiIon cell
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: OT: But it is a 500lb battery in a truck.
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) now Echo conversion
by Randy Holmquist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Another cheap (little) LiIon cell
by Alex Karahalios <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: YEEEEEE HAAAAW! JUNE's Jumpin' on the 19th!!
by John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Isuzu Magic Number?
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Another cheap (little) LiIon cell
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: 4/0 Welding Cable
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: ETEK manual/polarity (was brush side opening...)
by JCT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Another cheap (little) LiIon cell
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Dodge TEVan miles
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Boost Pack Circuit
by "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) How much Dc-DC?
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: OT: But it is a 500lb battery in a truck.
by Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: 4/0 Welding Cable
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) sem motor question
by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Heating and Hall effect sensors
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: sem motor question
by Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: ETEK
by "James Jarrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Cap Controller Failure Mode
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: YEEEEEE HAAAAW! JUNE's Jumpin' on the 19th!!
by keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Better Brakes, pressure regulator
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) RE: How much Dc-DC? -Test results from Echo
by "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) RE: Better Brakes, pressure regulator
by "Andy Harris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: CE NEWS
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- Begin Message ---
In this case and without looking up the Saft Model #, is there a way to tell
if a battery is a primary as opposed to a secondary battery?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Siebert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 13:33 PM
Subject: Re: Another cheap (little) LiIon cell
> John:
>
> Those are primary batteries, i.e., not rechargeable.
>
> /Bob
> On Wednesday, June 16, 2004, at 07:05 AM, John G. Lussmyer wrote:
>
> > All Electronics ( http://www.allelectronics.com ) has another cheap
> > Lithium battery.
> > 3.6v, 2.25AH, 10 for $1.50/ea. These are AA sized with wire leads!
> > Much easier to connect to.
> > Hmm, ony 1920 cells for $2880 to make a 90AH, 172V pack! (Same as the
> > Thundersky Cells I have).
> > Wonder if they would give a BIG quantity discount? :-)
> > --
> > John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I
> > dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chris Tromley wrote:
> It's apparent to me that you are not familiar with the "pile file"
> system. I'm sure if you asked Rich or Rod for a torque wrench or
> cable cutter they would walk directly over to a pile, reach in
> and pull out the needed tool.
The "pile file" system works fine when you are young, have a great
memory, and are working alone. It becomes progressively worse as you get
older, have so many things on your mind that you start forgetting
things, and when you are working with others (whose "pile files" are in
a completely different order than yours! :-)
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Bill; and welcome to the EV list!
> I'm wondering if a circuit something like the one below could be
> designed to work for a boost pack.
Sure, this could work. However, the DC/DC would have to handle some
pretty significant amounts of power.
A better alternative might be to have the high specific power batteries
as your traction pack (a high voltage string of small batteries). Then
have your bulk pack (which has a majority of your stored energy)
configured for a relatively low voltage, which is boosted by the DC/DC
converter as needed. This reduces the peak power handling capacity
needed for the DC/DC converter.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So 40 of these could make a 22.5 AH battery at 4 strings of 10 X 3.6v
Roughly a 12 v battery. Would this make a good replacement for a scooter
battery at 60 dollars? Would 40 of these be enough to keep the amp draw
down? How would you charge it? Lawrence Rhodes......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 9:25 AM
Subject: RE: Another cheap (little) LiIon cell
> John, are you referring to the SAFT LS14500 batteries on that site? If
so,
> I think that those are non-rechargable primary batteries.
>
> Bill Dennis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of John G. Lussmyer
> Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 7:05 AM
> To: EV Discussion List
> Subject: Another cheap (little) LiIon cell
>
> All Electronics ( http://www.allelectronics.com ) has another cheap
Lithium
> battery.
> 3.6v, 2.25AH, 10 for $1.50/ea. These are AA sized with wire leads! Much
> easier to connect to.
> Hmm, ony 1920 cells for $2880 to make a 90AH, 172V pack! (Same as the
> Thundersky Cells I have).
> Wonder if they would give a BIG quantity discount? :-)
> --
> John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
> http://www.CasaDelGato.com
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
18650's are down to 2 bucks each according to Otmar. Lawrence Rhodes....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Siebert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: Another cheap (little) LiIon cell
> John:
>
> Those are primary batteries, i.e., not rechargeable.
>
> /Bob
> On Wednesday, June 16, 2004, at 07:05 AM, John G. Lussmyer wrote:
>
> > All Electronics ( http://www.allelectronics.com ) has another cheap
> > Lithium battery.
> > 3.6v, 2.25AH, 10 for $1.50/ea. These are AA sized with wire leads!
> > Much easier to connect to.
> > Hmm, ony 1920 cells for $2880 to make a 90AH, 172V pack! (Same as the
> > Thundersky Cells I have).
> > Wonder if they would give a BIG quantity discount? :-)
> > --
> > John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I
> > dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich is correct. I can't believe I said that. lets change that to
"Squeeze the go pedal"
How big/heavy is such a motor?
Without commutation brushes and such control, the Upper RPM limit can be
pushed. I can't wait to see what you come up with, I have thought they
would be idea for EV's
5% slip, that slight tearing paper noise with an ounce of chirps when
the road surface is uneven. I sure miss that sound.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The "pile file" system works fine when you are young, have a great
> memory, and are working alone. It becomes progressively worse as you
> get
> older, have so many things on your mind that you start forgetting
> things, and when you are working with others (whose "pile files" are
> in
> a completely different order than yours! :-)
Yeah I agree with you about the memory thing. Besides that, stuff
accumulates, and you end up with a lot of piles all over the house,
yard and garage, and then your wife starts nagging you about "all that
useless junk" every day for the rest of your life...OTOH doing anything
at all (organization, or getting rid of stuff that really isn't so
useful, especially in ways other than the trash can, which IMO is to be
avoided at all costs, due to environmental reasons and the nagging idea
that every widget on the face of the earth has to still be useful to
_somebody_!) takes time away from the projects for which the stuff was
intended. It's one reason to look forward to the robot age, I suppose.
I would be happy to have a droid sort out all the extra tools and
hardware bits and electronic components into drawers, and maintain an
inventory database, and put stuff we don't need on ebay.
=====
. _______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(_ | |_) http://ecloud.org/ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
__) | | \______________________________________________
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
NO WAY! 2.4Ah cells? WHERE!
Just finished my second "PbA replacement" Li-ion pack.
http://sales.goldmine-elec.com/prodinfo.asp?prodid=8890
$1 per cell 1.05Ah cells 12 parallel, 4 series, <4 Lbs 2C to 4C.
Running great, even climbs hills, and goes 10 miles!
The are At&b, they "feel" very similar to Sony and At&b 18650's.
More data to come, once I put the page together.
( They also sell a $0.75 cell, but it won't push 1C, no good )
L8r
Ryan
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
18650's are down to 2 bucks each according to Otmar. Lawrence Rhodes....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Siebert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: Another cheap (little) LiIon cell
John:
Those are primary batteries, i.e., not rechargeable.
/Bob
On Wednesday, June 16, 2004, at 07:05 AM, John G. Lussmyer wrote:
All Electronics ( http://www.allelectronics.com ) has another cheap
Lithium battery.
3.6v, 2.25AH, 10 for $1.50/ea. These are AA sized with wire leads!
Much easier to connect to.
Hmm, ony 1920 cells for $2880 to make a 90AH, 172V pack! (Same as the
Thundersky Cells I have).
Wonder if they would give a BIG quantity discount? :-)
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I
dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
humm, how about a more modern potato stack battery?
Use copper/zinc plates (all lined up and sharp on top)
then literally throw potatos at it till the space inbetween
the plates are full of potatoes, tap in at each end.
Just need about 25 plates for 12v worth, and maybe the
power would increase aswell with more contact area for
the potato/plate connections. Capacity may decrease. <Grin>
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
Andre Blanchard wrote:
A potato battery.
http://latteier.com/potato/
500 lb generating 5V @4 mA is less than about half of
what a single AA battery can do, but I admire the effort.
humm, I wonder how long it worked for, how many Ah's?
L8r
Ryan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Phil,
We have done a number of auto tranny's over the years, mostly S-10 trucks but others
as well.
They are not as efficient but the customer is always right. :)
They actually make a very nice conversion and anyone can drive them, most of our fleet
vehicles are either direct drive of automatics.
We are putting 5 batteries under the hood in an insulated box and five under the rear
seat in
an insulated box. Then an optional two more sunk into the trunk floor.
This give us the option of 72 volts with 8 volt golf carts (this car) or 72 volts with
6 volt
golf carts (over GVW) or 144 volts of Optima's (most fun).
We will use either heavier springs or air bags in the rear and coil spacers in the
front to
bring the car back up to stock height.
We should have the adapter finished next week and the motor mounted. Designed a cool
mount
that bolts in.
Do you need an adapter and mount?? ;>)
BFN
Randy
> Mine is a 2001 with manual tranny. I'm surprised to hear that the one
> you're converting is an automatic - I though almost all conversions were
> manuals.
> I just started taking the ICE parts out of mine - and I'm hoping I can fit
> several batteries ( GC) under the hood without the battery box(es) being too
> conmplicated. Because of the cold winters in upstate NY ( but probably not
> as cold as yours) it will take extra room for insulation, and if I can fit
> them all in one box, it will help a lot. It's a pretty small engine
> compartment, though.
>
> I hope to have 5 or so batteries up front and the rest in the trunk, as far
> forward as possible. What kind (and how many) batteries are you using, and
> where will they be?
>
> Also, do you plan on beefing up the suspension? The simple rear suspension
> should make it easy to find and install stiffer rear springs, but I haven't
> started looking yet.
>
> Let me know how things go with the one you're converting ( picures would be
> great). I hope to have a web site with some pictures and descriptions of
> what I'm doing and how things go - I'll probably start that in a week or
> two.
>
> Phil
>
> >From: Randy Holmquist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: Motor addaptor - taperlock bushing
> >Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 18:16:31 -0700
> >
> >Hi Phil, we are also doing a (2000) Echo, for a customer.
> >It will use an 8" ADC SEPEX motor and Curtis controller.
> >We hope to add the Echo to our line of conversion kits since it is a cool
> >little
> >car and fairly easy to convert.
> >This one is automatic tranny with power steering and power brakes, the
> >sepex
> >system will give us good regen braking.
> >What year is yours?
> >
> >BFN
> >Randy
> >
> >--
> >Canadian Electric Vehicles Ltd.
> >PO, Box 616, 1184 Middlegate Rd.
> >Errington, British Columbia,
> >Canada, V0R 1V0
> >Phone: (250) 954-2230
> >Fax: (250) 954-2235
> >Website: http://www.canev.com
> >Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Manufactures of: "Might-E Truck"
> >EV conversion Kits and components
> >
>
--
Canadian Electric Vehicles Ltd.
PO, Box 616, 1184 Middlegate Rd.
Errington, British Columbia,
Canada, V0R 1V0
Phone: (250) 954-2230
Fax: (250) 954-2235
Website: http://www.canev.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Manufactures of: "Might-E Truck"
EV conversion Kits and components
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Ryan,
How do you charge this pack?
Alex Karahalios
On Jun 16, 2004, at 4:40 PM, Lightning Ryan wrote:
Just finished my second "PbA replacement" Li-ion pack.
http://sales.goldmine-elec.com/prodinfo.asp?prodid=8890
$1 per cell 1.05Ah cells 12 parallel, 4 series, <4 Lbs 2C to 4C.
Running great, even climbs hills, and goes 10 miles!
The are At&b, they "feel" very similar to Sony and At&b 18650's.
More data to come, once I put the page together.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I notice from the NEDRA web page (
http://www.nedra.com/upcoming_events.html ) that the racing starts at
at 7:30 and the gates open at 8:00.
When does the racing end?
On Monday, June 7, 2004, at 12:02 PM, Otmar wrote:
See you at the races! Speak up on the list if you plan on going to
one of these events.
Rich Brown
Thanks for the reminder Rich.
I plan to be at the Sonoma California event with California Poppy.
I'm looking forward to a great day of racing and hanging out with EV
buddies!
--
-Otmar-
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi folks,
This came in today, and having no experience with Isuzu conversions I don't
happen to have an answer. Anyone happen to know or maybe can point to
someone who does?
I will be happy to pass any answers on to Tony.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2004 21:32:14 -0400
From: antonio zas
Subject: I need help!!
Hello Mike,
My name is Tony and I live in Florida and I need a measurement off an Isuzu
engine (2.3 liter 4 cylinder from 1990) Is there anyone else that has
created an Isuzu conversion?
The measurement needs to be from the surface of the flywheel to the surface
of the mounting plate and it has to be within .000 inches.
If you can help it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tony,
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There are 2 "12v blocks" which I series/parallel switch.
I charge both blocks in parallel with an RC-Hobby 2.5A 4cell charger.
( At the moment, the idea is to develope a better system )
L8r
Ryan
Alex Karahalios wrote:
Hi Ryan,
How do you charge this pack?
Alex Karahalios
On Jun 16, 2004, at 4:40 PM, Lightning Ryan wrote:
Just finished my second "PbA replacement" Li-ion pack.
http://sales.goldmine-elec.com/prodinfo.asp?prodid=8890
$1 per cell 1.05Ah cells 12 parallel, 4 series, <4 Lbs 2C to 4C.
Running great, even climbs hills, and goes 10 miles!
The are At&b, they "feel" very similar to Sony and At&b 18650's.
More data to come, once I put the page together.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Pestka, Dennis J wrote:
>
> Lee;
>
> Thanks for the response.
> I am planning on a conversion of a small truck; S-10, Datsun, etc.
>
> Any idea on approx. how many feet I would need, and approx lengths of the
> pieces?
>
> The electrical contractor is saving all the pieces they cut off, and I will
> have my pick of what is left over.
>
> Any help would be appreciated;
A typical conversion will use around 20 feet; most of it in very short
pieces to interconnect the batteries. But it varies widely, depending
mainly on where your batteries are.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "Myles Twete":
Indeed even the very efficient ETEK can burn itself up.
-------snip.
Hope this helps-
-Myles Twete
====================
Thanks to all that answered.
I will closely watch the temperature of the ETEK.
I already have a couple VW bus' heater fan assy just waiting for a new job :-)
Side note:
There was no doc/user manual included with my ETEK.
Have some of you ETEK users put your hand on some doc.?
For ex. there is no polarity on the connectors. I conclude that it
can spin both way?
But are not DC motors more efficient spinning one way than the other?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hm. For a 300 volt pack one is looking at a raw cost of $83.00 per ah.
One would have to build the mother of all battery balancers for this
one; can you use one 4.2 volt balancer/clamper for a string of parallel
batteries? If one could buddy pair for depth, one could build a 50ah
pack for around 4k.
Getting a bit closer.
Chris
Lightning Ryan wrote:
NO WAY! 2.4Ah cells? WHERE!
Just finished my second "PbA replacement" Li-ion pack.
http://sales.goldmine-elec.com/prodinfo.asp?prodid=8890
$1 per cell 1.05Ah cells 12 parallel, 4 series, <4 Lbs 2C to 4C.
Running great, even climbs hills, and goes 10 miles!
The are At&b, they "feel" very similar to Sony and At&b 18650's.
More data to come, once I put the page together.
( They also sell a $0.75 cell, but it won't push 1C, no good )
L8r
Ryan
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
18650's are down to 2 bucks each according to Otmar. Lawrence Rhodes....
----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Siebert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: Another cheap (little) LiIon cell
John:
Those are primary batteries, i.e., not rechargeable.
/Bob
On Wednesday, June 16, 2004, at 07:05 AM, John G. Lussmyer wrote:
All Electronics ( http://www.allelectronics.com ) has another cheap
Lithium battery.
3.6v, 2.25AH, 10 for $1.50/ea. These are AA sized with wire leads!
Much easier to connect to.
Hmm, ony 1920 cells for $2880 to make a 90AH, 172V pack! (Same as
the Thundersky Cells I have).
Wonder if they would give a BIG quantity discount? :-)
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I bought my TEVan from Mike Chancey 2 years ago.
I just passed the 10,000 mile mark this week.
I have SAFT STM-180 NiCd batteries (30 of them, 6V
each, 50lbs, 180Ahrs).
No battery balancing, very minimal watering and no
loss of range. Hopefully this will continue.
I currently drive 44 miles minimum per day.
I don't drive it in winter (or more accurately when
salt is present on the road).
This is also the 'family van'. We have a full size
G20 GM van that has logged 15 miles in the past 3
months. I'll use the G20 if needed for longer trips,
but it has not been used lately. I guess this may be
typical for many people.
I guess EV's aren't very practical :-) (at least for
10% of the people!)
Rod.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill, it can be easier and simpler than that:
Use an AGM lead acid pack, connected to the TS Li Ion pack with a large
diode, as the support. As more current is drawn and the Li Ion pack voltage
drops under load, the AGM pack starts supplying current.
Here are some more details on one way to do it:
Plan a pack of small AGM batteries (such as Interstate DCS-33) having a
total pack charged resting voltage a little lower than the nominal voltage
of the TS Li Ion pack. In my case, 7 12V AGMs are used to support a 26 cell
300 A-Hour TS pack (made up of 26 200 and 26 100 A-hr cells).
So, for this real life example: 7 x 13V = 91V for the AGM pack, which is
a little less than 26 X 3.6V = 93.6V for the Li Ion pack.
As a second quick check calculation, verify that the reasonable minimum
voltage for the AGM pack is about the same as for the Li Ion pack. At about
11V per AGM battery and 3V per Li Ion cell, both packs are down to about
77V when discharged and under load. That checks out, so they should both
work well together "to the end".
Connect one polarity (say negative) of both packs directly together.
Connect the positive of the AGM pack (through a 200A DC rated circuit
breaker for protection and disconnect), to the anode of a large diode rated
to carry more than this current (ideally something like a low drop Schottky
300A diode on a suitable heat sink). Note that these current ratings are
for a low voltage high current EV, and can be reduced proportionately for a
higher voltage EV. Connect the cathode end of the diode to the Li Ion pack
positive. Connect a charging circuit across this diode to pass a limited
current in the other direction. I used a 12V 1 Amp. automotive light bulb
in series with a 10V 40W zener diode array (4 of the 5V, 5W zeners in
series/parallel) as a quick and dirty method for now.
How it works:
When the Li Ion pack is near full charge and under light load, the AGM pack
supplies no current as its voltage is lower than the Li Ion pack. Under
heavy acceleration/load when the Li Ion pack voltage is drawn down below
the AGM pack voltage, the diode conducts and the AGM pack supplies part of
the current. The more it is needed, as the Li Ion pack is discharged
further and/or loading increases, the more the AGM pack supplies current.
As I brake, regen raises the Li Ion pack voltage and the AGM pack charges a
little. When put on charge, the AGM pack starts charging once the Li Ion
pack voltage comes up. With a more sophisticated charging circuit, the AGM
pack can also absorb a lot of the regen current and allow for stronger regen
plus get partially recharged to help more. (applies to EVs with
regenerative braking capabilities).
If you want any further information or a drawing, let me know.
Best Regards,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 5:04 PM
Subject: Boost Pack Circuit
> In preparation for my EV conversion, I'm still in the early stages of
trying
> to teach myself some electronics, so I apologize in advance if this is an
> unworkable configuration dreamed up by a novice. I'm wondering if a
circuit
> something like the one below could be designed to work for a boost pack.
> The "Nifty Current Following Circuit" would do the following: When the
> controller called for 140A or less (.7C), all current would flow from the
TS
> Traction Pack. For Amperages above 140A, the Nifty Circuit would pull
some
> proportional number of amps from the DC-DC along with the amps from the TS
> Traction Pack.
Snip
> Bill Dennis
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How much 13.5volt in watts or amps do I need to run lights and radio and
blower? The heater will run off pack
the planned system is 240 -300 volts
I bought a 675watt vicor module and thought they shipped me an empty
box, it is very small.
I would quess 675 watts = 50amps is a peak not continous?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was thinking that myself. He should have tried using potato slices and
metal sheets instead of nails for better surface area.
Lightning Ryan wrote:
humm, how about a more modern potato stack battery?
Use copper/zinc plates (all lined up and sharp on top)
then literally throw potatos at it till the space inbetween
the plates are full of potatoes, tap in at each end.
Just need about 25 plates for 12v worth, and maybe the
power would increase aswell with more contact area for
the potato/plate connections. Capacity may decrease. <Grin>
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
Andre Blanchard wrote:
A potato battery.
http://latteier.com/potato/
500 lb generating 5V @4 mA is less than about half of
what a single AA battery can do, but I admire the effort.
humm, I wonder how long it worked for, how many Ah's?
L8r
Ryan
--
--
Martin Klingensmith
http://infoarchive.net/
http://nnytech.net/
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--- Begin Message ---
Dennis,
Could you get enough to sell off to people that wanted it? I'd be up
for 20-30 feet at a profit for you.
Thanks,
Ryan
p.s. to all...the 200sx is coming along pretty good. I just got the two
heater elements from Canada yesterday and am hacking things up to put
them in. I'll try to get some updated pictures on EV Source.
Lee Hart wrote:
Pestka, Dennis J wrote:
Lee;
Thanks for the response.
I am planning on a conversion of a small truck; S-10, Datsun, etc.
Any idea on approx. how many feet I would need, and approx lengths of the
pieces?
The electrical contractor is saving all the pieces they cut off, and I will
have my pick of what is left over.
Any help would be appreciated;
A typical conversion will use around 20 feet; most of it in very short
pieces to interconnect the batteries. But it varies widely, depending
mainly on where your batteries are.
--
For the best price on Zillas and PFC Chargers, visit http://www.evsource.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am new to the list and I have a question.
If a forklift motor is a separately excited motor Why cant they build
the motor with more turns of wire on the armature and control it with
less current? Like they control the field windings.
I would think the battery could last a week if the motor current could
be reduced and the motor could do the same work.
Mike G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Everyone,
Okay tech heads and ev experts - question here:
I'm working on the switching of the two 1500 watt heater units I'll be
using. When the heater slider is just barely in the red, I want one
unit to be on. When it is all the way to full heat, both units will be
on. I have some cool digital hall effect sensors that provide an
open-collector output that can sink 25ma. I'm using 2 (Wayland) Potter
& Brumfield KUEP-3D15-12 relays. From here on out, I'm not sure how to
do it. Suggestion might jump-start my brain. I'm quite sure the ground
connection on the monster relays would eat the 25ma output alive, so
maybe I'll need to throw a transistor in there to help out??
I'm using the hall-effect sensors because...well, why would you use
anything else? They won't wear out, don't corrode - and I sure don't
want to have to rip out my dash again to get to the whole heater mess
(even though it wasn't really that bad).
Thanks for any suggestions/clarifications/corrections.
Ryan
--
For the best price on Zillas and PFC Chargers, visit http://www.evsource.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Because if you reduce the power into the motor it CAN'T do the same
work.
Power equals Volts * Amps. If you reduce the Amps and keep the volts
the same then you have less power. Less power in equals less power out.
On Wed, 2004-06-16 at 20:03, M.G. wrote:
> I am new to the list and I have a question.
> If a forklift motor is a separately excited motor Why cant they build
> the motor with more turns of wire on the armature and control it with
> less current? Like they control the field windings.
> I would think the battery could last a week if the motor current could
> be reduced and the motor could do the same work.
> Mike G.
--
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The problem with the world is stupidity. Not saying there should be a
capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the
safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have heard a rumor from a couple of different sources that the Etek is
going to be discontinued.
Anyone else hear this?
I'm kinda bummed 'cause I like the etek design and had planned on purchasing
one in a few months to play around with.
James
James F. Jarrett
Information Systems Associate
Charlotte Country Day School
(704)943-4562
http://www.ccds.charlotte.nc.us/~jarrett
http://www.ccds.charlotte.nc.us/~jarrett/EV
Scitum est inter caecos luscum regnare posse. (It is well known, that among
the blind the one-eyed man is king.) - Gerard Didier Erasmus
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* LP8.2: HTML/Attachments detected, removed from message *
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--- Begin Message ---
Is there a class for hybrids in either NEDRA or NHRA?
does one have to join either or both to race? what
rules will apply for entrants on sat?
thanks
keith
--- John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I notice from the NEDRA web page (
> http://www.nedra.com/upcoming_events.html ) that the
> racing starts at
> at 7:30 and the gates open at 8:00.
>
> When does the racing end?
>
> On Monday, June 7, 2004, at 12:02 PM, Otmar wrote:
>
> >> See you at the races! Speak up on the list if
> you plan on going to
> >> one of these events.
> >>
> >> Rich Brown
> >
> > Thanks for the reminder Rich.
> > I plan to be at the Sonoma California event with
> California Poppy.
> >
> > I'm looking forward to a great day of racing and
> hanging out with EV
> > buddies!
> > --
> > -Otmar-
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I jammed on the brakes after I disabled the rear pressure regulator and
locking the wheels, appears fairly even. It stops much better now. I'll
search for some Porterfield R4 pads also, but braking feels much better now.
I noticed on mine and other folk's cars that the rear shoes are bairly worn
and rairly need replacing which is due to the rear pressure regulator. When
the vehicle was gas it was nose heavy, but now with 1200lbs of batteries
under the floor it the added braking helps. Does anyone know how much a rear
regulator reduces braking effort? I heard it was about 1/2 on the rear shoes
since they are more efficient than the front discs. Thus disabling the rear
regulator should improve braking overall by about a 33%.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: Better Brakes
> At 10:55 AM -0400 6-16-04, Mark Hanson wrote:
> >I was curious if anyone had info on grabier brakes (better
> >material). I heard something about NAPA previously, but calling the
> >store, they said they were just standard material.
>
> On my Porsche I use Porterfield R4 pads. Looking on the web I see
> there are R4S pads as well, I don't know which ones I have.
>
> The 914 does not have power brakes so grab is important. Mine came
> with R4s on the front (with BMW 320i calipers) and presumably stock
> rear pads. With that setup I had trouble with the front end locking
> up way early. When I went to R4 pads on the back the problem went
> away and the required pressure to stop went down. It feels normal
> again.
>
> These pads work well cold, and a bit better hot. They squeal at some
> loads. They are not cheap. $100+ for the one set of rears.
>
> >I adjusted the rear brake shoe pressure regulator by the right rear
> >96' Geo Tracker wheel by turning the 10mm nut clockwise tighter (the
> >one that says do not adjust) as far as it would go which seams to
> >give a bit better braking effort.
>
> Have you checked which end locks first in a panic stop since you
> adjusted it? You may be rudely surprised if the rears lock first.
> IIRC that would be a bad thing.
>
> I removed mine completely, but then checked it for good balance and
> the fronts still lock a bit before the rears.
>
> HTH,
> --
> -Otmar-
>
> http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
> http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just measured the current draw on my Echo a few days ago ( before starting
to take the engine out) This is at 12.5 V - (engine off) so the draws might
be a bit higher at 13.5 V or thereabouts.
Headlights - 11.2A
Radio - (normal volume for me) 0.5 A
Wipers - 7A max on high, 5 A max on low ( average wiper draw is less, the
current varies by a factor of two through the wiper cycle)
Blower - 3,4,8,or 12 Amps ( at each of the four speeds)
Rear window defogger - 13A
Brake lights - 5A
Parking lights - 2A
Phil Marino
Rochester, NY
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: EVlist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: How much Dc-DC?
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 2004 20:40:28 -0700
How much 13.5volt in watts or amps do I need to run lights and radio and
blower? The heater will run off pack
the planned system is 240 -300 volts
I bought a 675watt vicor module and thought they shipped me an empty box,
it is very small.
I would quess 675 watts = 50amps is a peak not continous?
_________________________________________________________________
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://youroffers.msn.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Have you thought about an adjustable bias valve, such as:
http://www.wilwood.com/products/valves/valves.asp
It might be fine in the dry, but it could still kill you in the wet...
Best Wishes
Andy Harris
Bradsoft
01274 588440
www.bradsoft.co.uk
PO Box 1000
Shipley
W. Yorks
BD17 7YQ
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mark Hanson
Sent: 17 June 2004 13:53
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Better Brakes, pressure regulator
I jammed on the brakes after I disabled the rear pressure regulator and
locking the wheels, appears fairly even. It stops much better now. I'll
search for some Porterfield R4 pads also, but braking feels much better now.
I noticed on mine and other folk's cars that the rear shoes are bairly worn
and rairly need replacing which is due to the rear pressure regulator. When
the vehicle was gas it was nose heavy, but now with 1200lbs of batteries
under the floor it the added braking helps. Does anyone know how much a rear
regulator reduces braking effort? I heard it was about 1/2 on the rear shoes
since they are more efficient than the front discs. Thus disabling the rear
regulator should improve braking overall by about a 33%.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: Better Brakes
> At 10:55 AM -0400 6-16-04, Mark Hanson wrote:
> >I was curious if anyone had info on grabier brakes (better material).
> >I heard something about NAPA previously, but calling the store, they
> >said they were just standard material.
>
> On my Porsche I use Porterfield R4 pads. Looking on the web I see
> there are R4S pads as well, I don't know which ones I have.
>
> The 914 does not have power brakes so grab is important. Mine came
> with R4s on the front (with BMW 320i calipers) and presumably stock
> rear pads. With that setup I had trouble with the front end locking up
> way early. When I went to R4 pads on the back the problem went away
> and the required pressure to stop went down. It feels normal again.
>
> These pads work well cold, and a bit better hot. They squeal at some
> loads. They are not cheap. $100+ for the one set of rears.
>
> >I adjusted the rear brake shoe pressure regulator by the right rear
> >96' Geo Tracker wheel by turning the 10mm nut clockwise tighter (the
> >one that says do not adjust) as far as it would go which seams to
> >give a bit better braking effort.
>
> Have you checked which end locks first in a panic stop since you
> adjusted it? You may be rudely surprised if the rears lock first. IIRC
> that would be a bad thing.
>
> I removed mine completely, but then checked it for good balance and
> the fronts still lock a bit before the rears.
>
> HTH,
> --
> -Otmar-
>
> http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
> http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
>
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--- Begin Message ---
The Currenteliminator will be racing 2 times this weekend.Friday nite for
points and close to a 1000 dollars.We are ranked 8th in the pro class in the az
drag racing ass.On saturday we start racing at 2pm(invited bracket race)in
front of 30000 +++ fans of NHRA racing.This is also the 4th of july jets vs funny
cars race and fireworks.So CE should add another 15-20 passes to its thousands
this weekend. You are all invited D.Kilowatt
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