EV Digest 4095
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: 1970s Cars
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: new conversion
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Maniac Mazda more Street than White Zombie? OT: Zombie Range
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Small Prestolite Pump Motor and over voltage questions
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Small Prestolite Pump Motor and over voltage questions
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE Current Eliminator News.
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
7) Re: Dennis Berube in Connecticut
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Re: Small Prestolite Pump Motor and over voltage questions
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: 1970s Cars
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: 1970s cars
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: 500A battery load tester
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: new conversion
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: 1970s Cars
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: 500A battery load tester
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Does Such an Electric Vehicle Exist?
by "J Mac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Snubber RC circuits
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: 500A battery load tester
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) FW: Peltier car cooling
by "Markus L" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Does Such an Electric Vehicle Exist?
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Small Prestolite Pump Motor and over voltage questions
by "Raymond Knight" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: 500A battery load tester
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: new conversion
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: 500A battery load tester
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: AC Motors and Reverse
by "Ivo Jara" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Ecom, Kewet
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: building your own batteries
by "Ivo Jara" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) RE: building your own batteries
by "Ivo Jara" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Electrochemist
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Ralph Merwin's Jelly Bean
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Electrochemist
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
>From: "John Wayland"
>A Datsun 510 2 door with the BRE fender
>flares filled with low profile rubber and
>classic American Racing 4 spoke mags,
>lowered
Something like this?
http://img214.exs.cx/img214/5872/sema39dh.jpg
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>From: "Reverend Gadget"
>I got the bug the other day and
>decided to start a new conversion.
Are you going to get the flywheel rebalanced?
Looks good, keep us updated.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>From: "Joe Smalley"
>If someone wanted to flat tow it, the tags
>need to be renewed and it would take an
>hour to put the tow bar brackets
>back on it. It would not take much to
>get it to the track.
You might look into this as far as getting it transported:
http://www.uship.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2005 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: Small Prestolite Pump Motor and over voltage questions
> On some of the old B-52G aircraft engines, the hydraulic pump was a
variable
> pressure type with a wobble plate that would compress the pump cylinders
in
> various amounts, depending on the load required . Sorry if this sounds
light
> on specifics, but I AM old and forgetful. Anyway, the pump would run
> continuously, being geared to aircraft engine, but would have variable
> output.
> David C. Wilker Jr.
> USAF (RET)
> "I'm figuring out what's good for me, but only by a process of
elimination"
That's called a Swash plate controled variable displacment pump. IT is the
BEST solution possible for fast accurate hydrualic pump control direction.
My Dad used a couple of these in 1500 to 1800 Hp Fiber board presses. Multi
Ton multi opening hardboard board lines.
Spendy... Really cool!
You would use these types of pumps if you wished to Walk you Jumper cars
around like controlled robots. Yea the control is THAT good!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>From: "Raymond Knight"
>The Prestolite motor is being used in one of those hopper
>cars.
>Typically the guys are using SAKO brand off shore fenner
>replacement pumps.
>Every guy we talked with at the last competition has to
>replace his motors
>after each competition.
SACO:
http://www.prohopper.com/motors.html
SACO:
http://www.redshydros.com/id34.htm
Something different...?
http://www.coolcars.org/cce/motors.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Feb.13 The CE makes 8 passes down speedworlds qt.mile,racing the az.drag
racing assoitions 2nd race of the year.In the 1st race of 05 the ce went to the
qt.finals.Today limping along on batteries that last week put out 3 amp hr.I
did
not expect to get past the 1st round.Instead the CE drove through every ICE
all the way(killer competitors)to the round leading into the final.I had such a
great package(a .003 lite with 12.12 dialed in an ran 12.122)that I got the
bye run.All day long I was in the right lane so I knew what the car was doing
there I chose the left lane for that free run...She ran a 12.097 a breakout.So
I had the info I needed to run in the left lane. My competitor in the
final run, ran in the left lane all day.A "heavy hitter" dragster from Tucson
probaly did not have too much info on the right lane so I made him flip for
lane
choice,I wanted to put him in the right lane and did so.In that final run I
dialed to 12.07 so I got the 1st lite about half way down the win lite in my
lane
came on so I ran CE out the back door knowing the other guy red lited.The CE
overran its predicted et buy .05 but it did not matter at that point we had
already WON. This is a series of races for all super pro cars in arizona.You
can follow my points at the adra website.After todays runs we maybe in the
points lead,ck it out on thursday. Dennis Berube 4000+ EV qt.
miles in 15 years
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I will be taking a short vacation feb.26 to the 28th in and about Westbrook.I
would like to meet up with the local evers.Please answer off list Thanks
Dennis Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Since we're talking about the hopper cars.. I've been
thinking about a product that I think would be REALLY useful
to all those who are involved with the hoppers.
The situation is currently this: Someone has a hopper.
They charge up their batteries and "test" the components by
hopping the car. It can only be done for so long before
they are drained. This seems to hinder R&D efforts.
Here is what I propose. A large AC to DC converter! Think
about a stationary, battery less car that could potentially
be hopped 24 hours a day. I think this would revolutionize
hoppers.
A beefy enough car can be built that won't break.
Especially considering it doesn't have all that battery
weight slamming on the suspension components.
Is there a AC to DC converter available that could power one
of these hoppers? This converter might just change
everything. Can someone on this list build one?
Unrelated:
This $125 "Multiple Battery Charger" looks interesting..
http://www.prohopper.com/batteries_accessories/charger(2540).jpg
http://www.prohopper.com/electrical.html
Anyone know anything about it?
Also, most active hydraulics forums I've found:
http://www.layitlow.com/forums/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Ryan Stotts wrote:
> >From: "John Wayland"
>
> >A Datsun 510 2 door with the BRE fender
> >flares filled with low profile rubber and
> >classic American Racing 4 spoke mags,
> >lowered
>
> Something like this?
>
> http://img214.exs.cx/img214/5872/sema39dh.jpg
Ohhhh Yeah! Exactly...it even has the 13 X 7 American racing 4 spokes.
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 13 Feb 2005 at 11:36, Alan Batie wrote:
> a friend had a non-GT opel (Kadett?)
I once had a 1965 Opel Kadett coupe. It was a remarkably simple car -
tubular shocks, transverse leaf spring in the front and a live axle with
leaf springs in the back. There was no shift linkage; the gearshift went
right into the transmission. The driveshaft had a single universal joint
and a torque tube. The electrical system was 6 volt.
It had a single carburetor 1 litre engine, manual choke, which made all of
40 hp, IIRC. Even with cheap bias-ply tires that little car could still do
a credible job of taking the corners (back in the day when I was a little
more adventurous in that department ;-). The acceleration was not neck
snapping, but I used to get 40mpg, pretty good for that era.
The beauty of it was its weight - roughly 1500 lb! It also had a cavernous
trunk in the back (the gas tank was in the left rear quarter), and it seemed
quite sturdy despite all the rust.
Many times I've thought that it would have made a good conversion. Put a 20
or 30 kw AC motor in the driveshaft tunnel where the trans used to be - I
think it would fit easily - and put the inverter under the passenger seat
and the charger under the driver's (plenty of room with those high seats).
Fill up the hood and trunk with about 180v of small nicads (or lead if need
be), maybe tweak the final drive (though it was darn low already), and go.
A similar but slightly heavier Kadette was sold in the US through about '68
or maybe '69, and would be almost as good. Hmm, there was a wagon, too,
which would give lots more room for batteries.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and had a look at the unit. It
takes no pains to cool off the carbon pile - there are lots of vent
slots in the case, but that's it. No fan.
The manual can be found on their web site.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/manuals.taf?f=form&ItemID=91129
Here's what it says about the duty cycle: 15 seconds per test with 1
minute cool down; 3 tests in 5 minutes
That sounds like it might be a nuisance if you're testing your whole
pack, but you can use the cool-down time to attach the jumper cables to
the battery and write down your results. I'd be able to do my pack in
half an hour.
The nice thing is that it beeps at you when 15 seconds are up, so
you're reminded to stop the test. I melted the on/off switch on one of
the cheaper HF battery testers because I wasn't paying enough
attention.
So is this worth having? What sort of battery problems will it detect?
On Feb 9, 2005, at 11:53 AM, Gordon G Schaeffer wrote:
Harbor Freight Tools, Camarillo, CA www.harborfreight.com
1-800-423-2567, has in their Catalog #3011-B that arrived yesterday a
500 amp carbon pile load tester #91129-1MPA on sale for $49.99. It has
two large battery clips with 4 gauge wire, two analog meters and a
knob
to adjust the load resistance. Weight 8.7 pounds. I bought a
similar
unit many years ago and found it to be quite helpful in finding a weak
battery in a string.
Gordon Schaeffer
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Are you going to get the flywheel rebalanced?
I'm going to make an adapter for the flywheel on
tuesday and I'll chuck the whole thing in the lathe
and see if it needs to be balanced.
I'll be posting a new page for each day I get
something done on the project. That was day one.I'll
let ya'll know when I can fit in another.
Gadget
>
> Looks good, keep us updated.
>
>
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anyone see a Subaru 360 or a Honda 600. Fiat 500 - 750. Three wheeled
Cushmans. Subaru 600. Mini's. VW pan with anything on it. I saw a 7
pound fender for a VW. I bet you could really reduce the weight of a VW by
getting a synthetic body. Maybe even a cool oval 50's rear window.
Lawrence Rhodes.......
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 13 Feb 2005 at 21:50, Doug Weathers wrote:
> So is this worth having?
Most of what I've seen at Harbor Freight can be charitably described as "for
the budget conscious." Basically, it's Chinese sweatshop junk. I really
hate to see people waste their money on it.
My policy on tools is that life is too short to frustrate myself with
inferior ones. I'd rather buy a high quality tool that's skimpy on
"features" than a feature-laden tool that's poorly made and won't last.
IMO, you'd be much better off to buy a good carbon pile tester from a local
garage that's closing, or even on Ebay. Even if it costs you 2-3 times as
much, it's likely that you'll get far better service from it. And if
something does break on it, not only will you be able to get spares, it'll
be worth fixing.
I say forget Harbor Freight. Except for an occasional surplus deal on real
branded merchandise, they are junk merchants.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or
switch to digest mode? See http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
1991 Solectria Force 144vac
1991 Ford Escort Green/EV 128vdc
1970 GE Elec-trak E15 36vdc
1974 Avco New Idea rider 36vdc
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
On two occasions I have been asked [by members of Parliament],
"Pray, Mr. Babbage, if you put into the machine wrong figures, will
the right answers come out?" I am not able rightly to apprehend the
kind of confusion of ideas that could provoke such a question.
-- Charles Babbage
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Looking for electric vehicle with good range (50 miles +) & that can tow
around 900 lbs.
Please send suggestions/links/ideas/contacts.
Thanks!
Mac
_________________________________________________________________
Don�t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all - especially Lee (since this is more a Lee Hart question)
I am playing around with RC snubber circuits for my contactor coils for
heater and vacuum pump. They are 54V rated contactors with 250-ohm coils
that I am intending applying 40V hold-in voltage to (with slugger RC from
60V for quick pull-in) [the same as I sent to you, Lee].
With a 6.8uF poly cap in series with 270 ohms across the coils, on
de-energise I get a voltage 'flip' to reverse of the applied voltage, holds
for a few moments then collapses with a small ringing oscillation that
stops after around three cycles. No, I forgot to note how long a few
moments is, click-click on the DSO to get a nice timebase for the trace is
too easy.
Does this sound about right?
What is the correct approach to selecting the RC values?
Thanks
James Massey
Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
'78 Daihatsu 1300kg truck under conversion
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 01:51:50 -0500, "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>On 13 Feb 2005 at 21:50, Doug Weathers wrote:
>
>> So is this worth having?
>
>Most of what I've seen at Harbor Freight can be charitably described as "for
>the budget conscious." Basically, it's Chinese sweatshop junk. I really
>hate to see people waste their money on it.
>
>My policy on tools is that life is too short to frustrate myself with
>inferior ones. I'd rather buy a high quality tool that's skimpy on
>"features" than a feature-laden tool that's poorly made and won't last.
>
Do you have one of these, Dave, or are you just pontificating?
>IMO, you'd be much better off to buy a good carbon pile tester from a local
>garage that's closing, or even on Ebay. Even if it costs you 2-3 times as
>much, it's likely that you'll get far better service from it. And if
>something does break on it, not only will you be able to get spares, it'll
>be worth fixing.
>
>I say forget Harbor Freight. Except for an occasional surplus deal on real
>branded merchandise, they are junk merchants.
As someone who DOES have one of these testers (from Northern tool but the
same thing), I have to disagree. This is an adequate tester for the
average DIYer. That is, someone who is not going to be testing batteries
all day every day. It applies the load, it reads the volts and amps with
adequate accuracy and it beeps when the time is up. Not much more one
could ask.
Faults? yep, it has a few. The tempco of the pile (more likely the
stainless steel mechanism) is such that as it heats up one must "ride the
gain" to keep the amps stable. The beeper is lame sounding. It gets
quite hot. After a couple of tests the fixed resistor elements are
glowing red hot.
I have a several decades old Snap-on battery and alternator tester. I
really can't say that it does these tests any better. I don't have to
ride the gain but then again, I'm not going to walk away from a test in
progress so it doesn't matter either way.
The big difference is, the snap-on is big and heavy and mounted on a cart
which means it never gets uses since I bought this little portable unit.
Doug, you asked what it is good for. It is somewhat of a blunt axe for EV
work but it will tell you of the battery is shot. That is, if it fails
the test it is bad. BUT. Passing the test is not an indication that the
battery is good for an EV application. It would take something much more
precise to load each battery to exactly the same load for exactly the same
time and then read the voltage to a much finer resolution than a cheap
analog meter.
For me, it's just another tool in my arsenal.
John
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am posting this again as my original post from last
Saturday didn't go through:
John,
there are Climate Control seats being developed for the
REVA electric car (revaindia.com). Cooling the body via
the seat is much more efficient than via the cabin air.
Here the description form the reva webpage:
Climate Control seats (CCST) - Coming soon!
The Climate controlled seats is another unique system to be introduced
shortly in REVA. The CCST system cools / heats / ventilates the seat to
increase occupant comfort in different weather conditions.
The CCST has a solid state heat pump and is extremely efficient; typically
energy consumption is less than 10% of that of conventional automobile
air-conditioners. As a result, driving is more comfortable and the range is
not compromised under very hot or cold conditions.
Markus
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Neon John
> Sent: Samstag, 12. Februar 2005 18:24
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Peltier car cooling
>
>
> While looking for something else, I found this site
>
> http://www.amerigon.com/peltier-module.htm
>
> Peltier cooling for seats and Peltier air conditioning.
>
> I don't think this would be practical for whole cabin cooling, as a
> peltier's COP is a little less than 1 and therefore would involve very
> high power levels but a combo of the seat coolers and some spot air
> coolers for the face and chest might just do the trick.
>
> I built a chilled water seat cooler for my first car oh so
> many years ago.
> It involved a heat exchanger in the suction line of the car's AC and a
> grid of tubing under the seat upholstery. This was
> wonderful. The seat
> would cool even before the cabin started cooling off so the
> period of heat
> soak sweat time was minimal. This system would be so much simpler.
>
> John
> ---
> John De Armond
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
> Cleveland, Occupied TN
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes I have had quite a few of them , but the 50 mile range might not be as
fast as you want , look in vehicles
http://www.grassrootsev.com/convert.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "J Mac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 2:20 AM
Subject: Does Such an Electric Vehicle Exist?
Looking for electric vehicle with good range (50 miles +) & that can tow
around 900 lbs.
Please send suggestions/links/ideas/contacts.
Thanks!
Mac
_________________________________________________________________
Don't just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks again. Accumulators definitely would solve all issues, but defeat the
purposes of what is happening. These guys are really, really, big on making
sure they look like everyone else. Everything has to appear to be the same
as the next guy.
I have only ever seen variable brush timing in very old generators. We moved
the one brush to adjust the voltage output of the generator. I have never
seen this on a starter or pump motor. It would be very hard to accomplish.
Getting video might not be too difficult though. As we have been talking
about running the motors without their cover plates. Allowing the crowd to
see the bright blue flashes would definitely get them excited. People seem
to love watching things get destroyed.
I had another idea this weekend. I am thinking of making the brush holder
plate insulted from both the negative and positive brushes. If it was
neutral, I think it would reduce or eliminate that chances of arching to it.
Rich,
I had planned on using 4/0 at about 18" in length. I can double
crimp and then dip the connections in lead free solder. The batteries
electronically test at 625amps CA at room temperature. I am hoping to get
1100amps out of them. I had planned on using equal length wire to connect to
the stud. Using the stud would be extremely convenient, as is using the 4/0
instead of bus bar.
Just nervous about it as I have never seen it done before. This also
brings up another question in my mind. I am building custom saddle bags
(sort of) to hold one set each of three batteries. The one side's negative
will go to the motors negative post, about 12" away. The positive of the
same set will go 16" to the negative of the other set in the saddle bag, on
the opposite side. It will then go 24" to the next set of three batteries.
The next set is only six inches from the last set. Which then will have to
travel about 4feet through fuses, disconnects, and contactors. Does the
distance between the strings have to be all equal?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A few years ago I was able to borrow a neat battery tester from a local
battery shop. It was designed to capacity test golf cart battery
packs. It would hook up with clamps across 36 volts worth of batteries,
then discharge them at 75 Amps until they reached the cutoff voltage. It
had a digital timer to count the number of minutes discharge took, a 120
VAC input to control the circuit, and an internal fan to keep the load from
melting. I thought it was really slick and would love to turn up a similar
one on Ebay, though shipping would be a bear. I suppose I could build one
myself if I got creative enough. I did do something similar using a
modified Rudman reg, a Citicar contactor, and a big resistor coil, but it
could only do one 12 Volt battery at a time.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Solectria Force
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "Reverend Gadget" <
I'll be posting a new page for each day I get
something done on the project. That was day one.I'll
let ya'll know when I can fit in another.
Gadget
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
I know I'd like to see them and it might help others get going . I'm
starting a new project also , it's a kit car a 1930 Mercedes gazelle , which
has , had a pinto 4 cylinder and other pinto parts , the owner lives in my
home town , a first ! I weighed the car on the way home , yes it drove ,
2160 lbs , I have almost all the parts , 9" net gain motor , pfc charger ,
the 1k 300v zilla is ordered and as soon as I know how many excides orbitals
it will hold I'll get them also. I'm working on getting Jon to put pictures
up on the www.grassrootsev.com web site, and will post when he dose .
steve clunn
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--- Begin Message ---
Here's mine.
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/files/rv/Battery_discharge_tester.jpg
I use headlamps for the load. That wiring is good for up to about 15 amps
which suits my needs quite well.
John
On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 06:32:35 -0600, Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>A few years ago I was able to borrow a neat battery tester from a local
>battery shop. It was designed to capacity test golf cart battery
>packs. It would hook up with clamps across 36 volts worth of batteries,
>then discharge them at 75 Amps until they reached the cutoff voltage. It
>had a digital timer to count the number of minutes discharge took, a 120
>VAC input to control the circuit, and an internal fan to keep the load from
>melting. I thought it was really slick and would love to turn up a similar
>one on Ebay, though shipping would be a bear. I suppose I could build one
>myself if I got creative enough. I did do something similar using a
>modified Rudman reg, a Citicar contactor, and a big resistor coil, but it
>could only do one 12 Volt battery at a time.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike Chancey,
>'88 Civic EV
>'95 Solectria Force
>Kansas City, Missouri
>EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
>My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
>Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
>Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
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--- Begin Message ---
The Smarmotor ? can't really remember, was it the computer controlled high
efficiency gizmo, the one running a modified CU3. ?
BTW - I have always remebered the shape of submersible motors, and if all of
you saw them you'd be quite impressed, you can nave a 50 hp motor in a 6"
diameter, and a length of 1 metre (approx), those things cool themselves
with water, (inside of the motor), efficiencies are around 95%.
And it could be installed in the place of the driveshaft, and with that
have all the trunk and hood areas free for batteries.
This is just an idea, there are variosus problems, first of all 380V, then
AC, and then the cooling, well, also they are 100% stainless steel on the
outside, and installing them on an 8" sleeve full of water, and running the
water at a certain speed through a radiator, you are all set.
Too much hassle right ???
Ivo
-----Mensaje original-----
De: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
nombre de Rod Hower
Enviado el: viernes, 11 de febrero de 2005 21:26
Para: [email protected]
Asunto: RE: AC Motors and Reverse
It's all software control for these drives.
You can run either direction and have regen if
the controller is smart enough.
Ivo, I worked at Baldor, remember the Smartmotor?
Cheers,
Rod
--- Ivo Jara <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I don't know how good they run, but they do, I
> worked fror Grundfos, a water
> pump manufacturer, and when the electricians on
> location wired a pump
> incorrectly, it did run backwards.
>
> those were AC brushless submersible motors 380 Volts
> 5 to 400 hp.
>
>
http://net.grundfos.com/Appl/WebCAPS/CatalogueCtrl;jsessionid=00003bnN0WHKvv
> DuHPkcsDGkSAR:-1?cmd=prsr
>
> Ivo
>
> -----Mensaje original-----
> De: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> nombre de Carl Clifford
> Enviado el: viernes, 11 de febrero de 2005 17:00
> Para: [email protected]
> Asunto: AC Motors and Reverse
>
>
> Easy question for those more knowledgeable than
> myself:
>
> Can you run an AC motor backwards? In other words,
> if I build an AC
> conversion w/out a transmission will I be able to
> back up?
>
> I know the arguments against doing this, just
> curious about this detail.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Carl Clifford
> Denver
> ;-| grinless
>
>
>
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The ECOM was the best minimalist EV I drove. I wish they would produce it
and told several of the managers at the EVS show a few years ago. I guess
the only one available now is the Kewet. I was thinking of going back to
something like this due to the reduced batteries/cost to operate.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: Smart EV
> On 11 Feb 2005 at 15:49, Christopher Zach wrote:
>
> > There *was* some sort of little Toy Toyota EV as well, correct?
>
> You might be thinking of the E-Com. It was a prototype; they built some
> small number, I think mostly for show, in the mid 90s when there was still
> some chance that CA might not cave on the EV mandate. (Sigh.)
>
> I never actually saw on in the flesh, or whatever, but they seemed like a
> nice little commuter from the pictures and descriptions. They used a
small
> NiMH pack, going for weight reduction rather than range extension. DC
> brushless motor maybe? I'd kinda like to get my mitts on one someday.
>
>
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or
> switch to digest mode? See http://www.evdl.org/help/
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> 1991 Solectria Force 144vac
> 1991 Ford Escort Green/EV 128vdc
> 1970 GE Elec-trak E15 36vdc
> 1974 Avco New Idea rider 36vdc
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> It is impossible to defeat an ignorant man in argument.
>
> -- William G. McAdoo
>
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>
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I did not see that in the 1950's, I saw it in the early eighties in chile,
there are still battery factories here that use black cases, and are open on
the top, so you order your batt, the guy adds the right amount of plates to
it, and then they seal the top of it with something like tar, then they add
the acid and they "activate it" by doing smethig at the posts, I don't know
exactly what they do, These mini factories still run in latin America, they
make custom 24 volt batteries for buses and trucks, could not find pics of
them, but they are just like the old 1950's batteries, all tar on top, and
lead zinc inside (I guess).
ivo.
-----Mensaje original-----
De: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
nombre de Ryan Stotts
Enviado el: viernes, 11 de febrero de 2005 22:04
Para: [email protected]
Asunto: building your own batteries
Was anyone on this list around in the 1950's or earlier?
Someone once told me that in the 1950's if you went into an
auto parts store to buy a new battery, the battery case was
dry, and they had to fill it with acid and then "jump start"
the battery to get it to be able to take an initial charge.
Anyone remember this or know more details about it?
Also either during that time, or the during decades before,
there were these ~1 foot square glass containers used for
radios (out in the country where their weren't any power
lines yet, seems like a windmill was used to charge the
battery). Apparently, it had some sort of lid and plates
and you filled them with acid. Anyone ever seen one of
these? Any pics? I've seen the glass containers before,
but not the rest of the components.
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Yep, now that you mention it I remeber that even japanese batteries were
shipped dry.
Ivo
-----Mensaje original-----
De: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
nombre de Dave
Enviado el: viernes, 11 de febrero de 2005 22:18
Para: [email protected]
Asunto: Re: building your own batteries
I am not THAT old, but back when I was a grease monkey in an AAFES garage
(1988) I would have to fill dry batteries with acid, as they were shipped
and stored without any acid in them.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
"I'm figuring out what's good for me, but only by a process of elimination"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 5:03 PM
Subject: building your own batteries
> Was anyone on this list around in the 1950's or earlier?
> Someone once told me that in the 1950's if you went into an
> auto parts store to buy a new battery, the battery case was
> dry, and they had to fill it with acid and then "jump start"
> the battery to get it to be able to take an initial charge.
> Anyone remember this or know more details about it?
>
> Also either during that time, or the during decades before,
> there were these ~1 foot square glass containers used for
> radios (out in the country where their weren't any power
> lines yet, seems like a windmill was used to charge the
> battery). Apparently, it had some sort of lid and plates
> and you filled them with acid. Anyone ever seen one of
> these? Any pics? I've seen the glass containers before,
> but not the rest of the components.
>
>
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Forgiveme if I jump into the middle of a conversation, my PC was offline
for over a week, I still hae ~200 emails to go thru.
I don't think we really need to be an eletrochemist to make batteries.
The eletrochemist develop the raw materials, I think we can just
"assemble" them.
I have been looking into makeing lithium-ion batteries, just wanted to
know if we could make a niche production out of it. The info is guarded
to some degree but I think I have enought to give it a go soon. The
trouble is getting materials, I found a supplier that wlll supply me
100kg quantities without chargeing me lab prices ($100/$100grms) for the
cathode material. Anode material is a different supplier and I now need
someone to supply binder, electrolyte, and foil.
The process doesn't seem to difficult for wet cells.(jellyroll 18650's
are another matter, electrosputtering)
for each eletrode material mix powdered active material with a
solvent,binder and 2% teflon (use scale for active material)
roll this goo out into sheets and cut to size
roll plate that is a suber-fine mesh copper or alum(depending on
electode) with the sheet of active material forcing it into the spaces
(this is the question I am stuck with right now, to use screen
or just put it on the plate surface, I have heard about both methods and
I think both are used, screen for high AH and plateing for high amperage
cells)
dry plates with a dessicant hot air dryer (got some at work I can
borrow)
assemble dry plates, seperators into case in an argon filled
glovebox (thinking of using a sanblaster box with added seals)
pull vacuum on case and let that vacuum pull in electrolyte. Use a
scale to tell how much electrolyte
seal and repeat,
age No info yet
commision charge No info yet
need cases, but, in the long run, I can make the mold myself, I work at
an injection molder.
Pred battery materials has a lot of what we need, but they wouldn't take
me seriously. grams or tons, the guy was a little anoid I bothered him
with emails.
I found a company that has an innovative anode material that increases
cycle-life and decreases self discharge, but the cell voltage drops to
2.5. I like the idea of the cells lasting longer and would gladly take
the lower voltage.
I also found a company that has binders and solvents that are useable in
air, reduceing glovebox time to the final assembly only.
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Hello to All,
About '70's cars, I wrote:
> Today's newer small cars and not-so-small trucks are, well, a bit
> boring. Front wheel drive is boring, jelly bean look-alike styling is boring,
> 2800-3200
> lb. 'small cars' are boring, and interiors that are over-stuffed and over
> styled, are also
> boring. In contrast, the early seventies small cars have styling that still
> looks hip and fresh
> today.
>
Ralph Merwin wrote:
> I have a '93 Geo Prizm
> (aka Boring Jelly Bean with a Boring Interior with a Boring
> Curb Weight of 3200 lbs (projected)). Hi John ;-)
Oh-oh .....the last thing I want to do, is offend fellow EVers, especially a
good friend
like Ralph. It's important to note that not everyone wants to go through the
extra trouble
restoring an older, more classic machine from the 50s, 60s, & 70s. Many would
miss today's
creature comforts like a modern HVAC system, electric rear window defoggers,
intermittent wipers,
higher end interior, factory sound system, etc.
The above said, I still stand by what I wrote.
Ralph's car is indeed, one of the jelly bean cars. No one that I know, loses
sleep
over acquiring a '93 Geo prism or its sister cloned Toyota Corolla. I remember
road testers
in magazines reviews saying something to the effect, "Styling is
under-whelming, not at
all different from the rest of the current crop of mundane sedans." Of course,
I'd have to
say the same thing about our dependable '93 Subaru Legacy all wheel drive
wagon...same
jelly bean styling with a wagon back half. No one turns to look at a Subi
wagon, either,
but man, does the thing get it on in the snow! My own Red Beastie wasn't a head
turner
and to my knowledge, it went down the road pretty much unnoticed...OK, maybe
some
saw the periwinkle blue 'ELECTRIC' across the tailgate. It's modern cab with
its well
defined dash lighting and killer HVAC system made it a cushy ride though, and
in a totally different
vein, it was a good, if not impassioned EV.
There's a big difference with Ralph's conversion though, in that while a Geo
Prism as a stand-alone
invokes a tepid reaction, it's his over-the-top high quality work and design
that
completes the EV package to where one can only smile with admiration when
viewing his
slick conversion. Everything from the gauges and switches, to the wiring, to
the layout of
battery and drive train components, screams factory! Though the car would never
turn heads
driving down the street, once it's parked and he lifts the hood or pops the
trunk, it
demands respect. Ralph's EV Prism has been a great machine to show others how a
nice home
built electric conversion can be assembled with pride and integrity.
See Ya.......John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 06:45:55 -0800, Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Forgiveme if I jump into the middle of a conversation, my PC was offline
> for over a week, I still hae ~200 emails to go thru.
>
> I don't think we really need to be an eletrochemist to make batteries.
> The eletrochemist develop the raw materials, I think we can just
> "assemble" them.
I guess that's true. What I meant was that it probably helps, if you
know exactly what you're doing: you CAN build a motor controller by
copying another and knowing roughly what each bit does, but you'll
have more success by understanding it fully and being able to
calculate the exact values, and which details matter and which don't.
There's just a bit more trial and error involved otherwise :)
> I have been looking into makeing lithium-ion batteries, just wanted to
> know if we could make a niche production out of it. The info is guarded
> to some degree but I think I have enought to give it a go soon. The
> trouble is getting materials, I found a supplier that wlll supply me
> 100kg quantities without chargeing me lab prices ($100/$100grms) for the
> cathode material. Anode material is a different supplier and I now need
> someone to supply binder, electrolyte, and foil.
Very interesting. LiMn2O4 or LiCo02 for the anode?
--- End Message ---
