EV Digest 4154

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Motor-less Zombie, Purple Phaze on the Trailer
        by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: Regarding the Spirit and Purpose of NEDRA
        by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) EV-related parts at surpluscenter.com
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  4) cheap testing of multiple batteries
        by "Deuville's Rink" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) RAV4 EV on eBay
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  6) RE: Idea for generic adapter kit
        by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: cheap testing of multiple batteries
        by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) RE: Aftermarket Hybrid electric system
        by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: Idea for generic adapter kit
        by "Jonathan \"Sheer\" Pullen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) BEV at Geneva
        by Marc Geller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: EV-related parts at surpluscenter.com
        by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: Datsun Minitruck Mania!
        by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: Cheap  VW Bug EV's and  Contactor controllers!
        by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Re: Idea for generic adapter kit
        by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: cheap testing of multiple batteries
        by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: Dave Cloud's Rules ideas
        by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) RE: TEVan parts
        by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Re: Motor-less Zombie, Purple Phaze on the Trailer
        by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Fwd: Roadside & tow assistance
        by Sherry Boschert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Re: Emeter question
        by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: 914EV on ebay,, ooooo
        by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Re: Idea for generic adapter kit
        by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,

Things are moving ahead at a fast pace around here! Last night, still in our 
work uniforms,
and with the front of the Wayland property adorned with dual service trucks, 
Tim Brehm and I
attacked White Zombie. After about 3 hours of wrenching, wire disconnecting, 
and marking and
tagging of all wire looms and connectors, we pulled the twin motor drive unit 
out of the car.
Man, it's sure handy having a forklift! It was way cool to have another 
powerful electric
vehicle, my Hyster J30BS forklift, sitting quietly in my EV shop, ready to lend 
its muscle.
There's something so cool about about being totally 'EV'.

The first EV involved, was when we drove Blue Meanie out of the shop. Then, as 
it always has
to be, we needed tunes to work by, so Linkin Park's 'Hybrid Theory' was loaded 
in the Heavy
Metal Garden Tractor's CD slot, EV number two. As Hybrid Theory played, I was 
reminded of my
92 mpg hybrid siting in the garage, my trusty Insight...I digress. Then, when 
it was time to
lift the 200+ lbs. of motors from the car, EV number 3, the forklift, was 
awakened for duty.
Like any good EV, after quietly sitting for weeks on end, it fired up instantly 
as the subtle
whir of its electrically driven hydraulic power steering came to life. Then, 
the entertaining
growls and buzzes of the EV100 SCR speed controller joined in as the twin 
Prestolite drive
motors effortlessly gave motive power to the 7200 lb. EV. We used a wide, nylon 
lifting strap
with BIG hooks, and after adjusting the forks closer together and with the 
strap under the
motor drive unit, while feathering the raise lever and with the lift truck's 
fourth electric
motor (the powerful lift pump motor) powering up, the machine magically lifted 
the motors out
of the car, no back strain, no sweat, no problem!

Next, we dissed the strap and slid the motor array onto the forks. The EV 
hauling device, the
Jeep Cherokee,  was backed down to the shop, then the fork lift was maneuvered 
behind it
where we gently lifted the motors up, then placed the fork ends inside the 
cargo area of the
Jeep. It was easy to simply slide the motor package from the fork tips and into 
the back of
the Jeep...why didn't I get a forklift  long time ago?

After putting the cars away, we turned to the '66 minitruck. Out front, the 
jeep was attached
to the trailer and positioned. It was again, very easy to do the work at hand, 
because we had
the right equipment. I have a nifty electric trailer winch, but alas, haven't 
bothered to set
it up on the trailer, so we used the manual nylon strap winch on the trailer. 
We simply
connected the hook to the truck, and with a few hundred cranks of the handle, 
had the
minitruck up and onto the trailer.

This Saturday, my wife and I are off to the central Oregon area, where we will 
haul the
minitruck and the Zombie's motors to Jim Husted's 'High Torque Electric' shop 
in Redmond. Jim
and I will disassemble the motors and press out the armature shafts, to prepare 
them for the
intense mods planned. The minitruck will be right next door at Dan's composite 
shop, where
the custom bed will be made.

It was dark out last night when we were working, but early  inspections of the 
motor shafts
and couplers revealed that the Zombie was taken off line just in time before 
major carnage
was to be had. The keyways of both motors' output shafts are hogged out, the 
key stock is
loose, and the hubs wobble...too much power! This is all the more reason, that 
I feel
switching to new, beefed-up splined shafts and couplers are the way to go. We 
were both
pretty shocked to see how much play and wobble the dutchman coupler has in it, 
no doubt now,
that it is and has been, the major source of vibration in this car.

We were also able to fix the brake drag the car had, and now, it rolls around 
with a
one-finger push, instead of two guys grunting to move the damn thing!

More reports to come....

See Ya...John Wayland

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm not a NEDRA director, but have dealt with cheap and expensive
EV hardware. I wanted to make one comment to a very good John's post.

John Wayland wrote:

Those of us who have spent years creating and improving our racing EVs, would never, ever, consider the option of allowing them to be subject to a 'hostile take-over'. When Dave Cloud says, "What makes a vehicle go faster is more money, not more voltage", I couldn't disagree more. What makes and EV quicker and faster, is years of dedication, long hours of often back-breaking labor, and most important of all, creativity!

This is what the spirit of any creator should be and I always respect those who are capable of creating something noone else thought of.


But, don't afraid to admit reality Jogn - without money the most creative guy will achieve NOTHING. You may not like this statement,
and disagree with it all you want, (I don't like it either), but
this doesn't change this simple fact.


Now, I 100% agree with you that money alone will not automatically
buy a win. It takes both, money and enginuity. But money can hire
creative person.

Where would Zombie be today unless you'd keep pouring [your own
 hard earned or sponsor's] money to continuously repair broken
or blown up parts? You've got to change your slogan a bit:

"We blow things so you don't have to, and we pay for it".
Pragmatic? Sure, but reflect reality better. And people will
realize better what's involved. (I know, fruitless suggestion,
it will scare away potential EVers... but otherwise it's almost
like hiding all the truth).

I do realize NEDRA is not as much about winning as about promoting
the cause. I'm just commenting your paragraph above.
Yes, money *multiplied* by enginuity make EVs go faster, not
"years of dedication, long hours of often back-breaking labor,
and most important of all, creativity" ALONE. Face it.


-- Victor '91 ACRX - something different

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you don't get the hardcopy version of the Surplus Center's catalog, there
were some things listees may find useful:

11-2337 Curtis 48V contactor $13.95 - 100A continuous duty
11-2538 Hawker SBS 39Ah battery $29.95 - 7-15/16 x 6-3/4 x 6-3/4
11-2532 Hawker SBS 92Ah battery $74.95 - 15-1/2 x 4-1/8 x 10-1/2

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Am looking for cheap way of checking each individual battery on my string of 14 
six volt batteries while under operating condition (find out which ones are 
sagging) 
I am planning to get a 14 position switch with two decks, one deck will connect 
to all positive terminals while the second deck will connect to all negative 
terminals, each deck will connect plus minus of a  volt meter, while in 
operation of the Zamboni I will be able to select each battery one at a time 
while operating to see the voltage drop. Does this seem to be practical?
Thanks

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
$30K starting bid, which I can't afford (and from what has been posted here,
neither can Remy!)

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Ok, time to let the cat out of the bag. and my first progress report on the 300VZX
I am currently working on something similar. Maybe not generic, but least common denominator where differences are confined to 1 part whose cost doesn't differ when the design changes, Castings have that problem sometimes, and sand castings have to be machined anyway....


Item #1 : CNC'd motor bell housing This mounts to the 9 or 8" and provides the depth needed for the taperlock adapter and is the same in all kits. It provides an 11" dia by 1/8" reference diameter that registers in item # 2 Done.with prototype, getting CNC quotes.

Item #2 : A water jet cut flat plate about 5/8" thick( adjusts to compensate for magig number variences) Aluminum, and has the 11" hole, all the tranny mounting holes, two 1" holes for mounts to frame, and a 10" wide flat survace on top to mount the alum diamond plate shelf for the controller. Just got plate water cut today, 25 min on machine for the 17" x 26" plate with the 11" hole. Cost is time of use, more than one adapter can be cut from same sheet, 1/2 done

Item #3: Taperlock bushing and taperlock hub adapter that memic a small block chevy crank. Standardizing on SBC makes avail item #4 Done. Man those minuteman broaches are cool. Footnote, Oversized bushing area so different pilot bushings can be used is needed.

Item #4: Used tilton 7-1/4 dual plate clutch on a button flywheel Easy to find on ebay for <$300 Purchased 5.5 triple plate, too thick but will make it work on prototype and get 7-1/4 for kit.(more avail, less hassle) done

Item #5: new clutch disks with the spline I need < $160 from tilton. In my case made up for the nissan. done

Item #6: throw out bearing adapter, using 42mm radius contact throwout bearing avil for 350zx for < $39.00 purchased bearing, need to make

Items #7:Waterjet and tig welded stainless tranny plate mounds to unibody and the pop-rivots

Item #8: Front motor mount , a waterjet cut 1/2" thick Alum saddle that goes to existing motor mounts and who's top half bolts on and provides the other shalf support. design pending first motor fitting.


I am planning on calling the buisness somthing like Central Valley EVS that is Electric vehicle Supply or soulution or just EV's :-)
To buy the hydraulic crimper and make interconnect cables
To source metric flangehead bolts and buy them in bulk for resell (this is a sadly missing target in bolt distributers in this area)
Eventually to stock warp motors , zilla controllers and PFC chargers and rudman regulators. This will be in 3rd year
I want to have weekend fresno chapter EV meetings at a building where we have everthing we need to convert a vehicle on site, (kinda like someone else we know :-) )


Next up
Deal with wrecking yard to let me borrow stripped engine blocks to measure and build up pattern database.


I think I have the 300zx pattern, but will wait tell I test it before I post the numbers.

Take suggestions from the group.
I am doing the 300zx, then I have a mitsubishi PU lined up. What vehicles do you people want to see adapters for?





--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Or you could set up a Lee/Zach battery monitor to watch each battery for over-low and over-high conditions.

It's been great on the elec-trak and I can't wait to use it on the Prizm.

Chris

Deuville's Rink wrote:

Am looking for cheap way of checking each individual battery on my string of 14 six volt batteries while under operating condition (find out which ones are sagging) I am planning to get a 14 position switch with two decks, one deck will connect to all positive terminals while the second deck will connect to all negative terminals, each deck will connect plus minus of a volt meter, while in operation of the Zamboni I will be able to select each battery one at a time while operating to see the voltage drop. Does this seem to be practical?
Thanks

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Does the belt ratio look backwards to anyone? I mean with that small of a motor, wouldn't you want to multiply torque?
I guess max rpm is a concern.


still to me, it looks small but for a 4 banger it might really help out, I think a human on a bycycle puts out as much torque as a 4 cylinder engine, 125 Lbs, it is just the rpm that keeps the HP down .
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff Shanab wrote:

Ok, time to let the cat out of the bag. and my first progress report on the 300VZX
I am currently working on something similar. Maybe not generic, but least common denominator where differences are confined to 1 part whose cost doesn't differ when the design changes, Castings have that problem sometimes, and sand castings have to be machined anyway....


Item #1 : CNC'd motor bell housing This mounts to the 9 or 8" and provides the depth needed for the taperlock adapter and is the same in all kits. It provides an 11" dia by 1/8" reference diameter that registers in item # 2 Done.with prototype, getting CNC quotes.

Item #2 : A water jet cut flat plate about 5/8" thick( adjusts to compensate for magig number variences) Aluminum, and has the 11" hole, all the tranny mounting holes, two 1" holes for mounts to frame, and a 10" wide flat survace on top to mount the alum diamond plate shelf for the controller. Just got plate water cut today, 25 min on machine for the 17" x 26" plate with the 11" hole. Cost is time of use, more than one adapter can be cut from same sheet, 1/2 done Item #3: Taperlock bushing and taperlock hub adapter that memic a small block chevy crank. Standardizing on SBC makes avail item #4 Done. Man those minuteman broaches are cool. Footnote, Oversized bushing area so different pilot bushings can be used is needed.

Item #4: Used tilton 7-1/4 dual plate clutch on a button flywheel Easy to find on ebay for <$300 Purchased 5.5 triple plate, too thick but will make it work on prototype and get 7-1/4 for kit.(more avail, less hassle) done

Item #5: new clutch disks with the spline I need < $160 from tilton. In my case made up for the nissan. done

Item #6: throw out bearing adapter, using 42mm radius contact throwout bearing avil for 350zx for < $39.00 purchased bearing, need to make
Items #7:Waterjet and tig welded stainless tranny plate mounds to unibody and the pop-rivots


Item #8: Front motor mount , a waterjet cut 1/2" thick Alum saddle that goes to existing motor mounts and who's top half bolts on and provides the other shalf support. design pending first motor fitting.


I am planning on calling the buisness somthing like Central Valley EVS that is Electric vehicle Supply or soulution or just EV's :-)
To buy the hydraulic crimper and make interconnect cables
To source metric flangehead bolts and buy them in bulk for resell (this is a sadly missing target in bolt distributers in this area)
Eventually to stock warp motors , zilla controllers and PFC chargers and rudman regulators. This will be in 3rd year
I want to have weekend fresno chapter EV meetings at a building where we have everthing we need to convert a vehicle on site, (kinda like someone else we know :-) )
Next up
Deal with wrecking yard to let me borrow stripped engine blocks to measure and build up pattern database.


I think I have the 300zx pattern, but will wait tell I test it before I post the numbers.

Take suggestions from the group.
I am doing the 300zx, then I have a mitsubishi PU lined up. What vehicles do you people want to see adapters for?




I'd like to see adapters for the Honda CRX/Accord/Civic and the Saturn SL1/SL2, and the VW Eurovan/Westfalia

I'm liklely to be in the market for a adapter for the VW Eurovan and Westfalia for my hybrid project sometime in the next year and a half. I will probably have to get the motor adapter custom made as I'm not using a standard motor - I may be using a Siemens 45kW motor similar to the one that's in QM, or I may be using a industrial AC motor that's expressly not designed for EV use. (I have to try it at least once ;-))

S.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 21:28:38 -0600
From: Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Idea for generic adapter kit
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Jeff Shanab  wrote:

> Item #3: Taper lock bushing and taper lock hub adapter that mimic a small
> block Chevy crank. Standardizing on SBC makes avail item #4  Done. Man
> those minuteman broaches are cool.  Footnote, over sized bushing area so
> different pilot bushings can be used is needed.

I prefer a pilot bearing over a pilot bushing:

http://www.jegs.com/photos/555pilotbearings.jpg 

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=159967&prmenbr=361

--- End Message ---

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