EV Digest 4249
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Interstate Batteries
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Automatic Trans SAAB 900E ADVICE!!!!
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Beggining my battery education.
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: EVcort battery thoughts
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: A89 vs ETEK at 48v
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Good article on clutches (thoughts for a 944 clutch)
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Interstate Batteries
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Automatic Trans SAAB 900E ADVICE!!!!
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Interstate Batteries
by Ken Olum <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: 95 SAAB 900E ADVICE!!!!
by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Interstate Batteries
by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: News Flash! GM To Build Hydrogen Cars!
by CopperLion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) signoff ev
by CopperLion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Automatic Trans SAAB 900E ADVICE!!!!
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: NO POLITICS - here's why
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) new (to me) EV grin
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: TdS Report #3: FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Interstate Batteries
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: News Flash! GM To Build Hydrogen Cars!
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE:1998 EV Ranger for sale
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) First drive around the block in the New Beetle
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) EV Challenge Completes School Year
by "Ralph Goodwin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Arcane autos and connector for 1221Curtis Regen model.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) E-Meter Blues
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: E-Meter Blues
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE:1998 EV Ranger for sale
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Solectria Force Discussion Group
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) RE: Solectria Force Discussion Group
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Interstate Batteries
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Interstate is a distributor for other batteries, such as USBattery. I'm using
(18) USB8VGC to make my 144V pack. They are 165 Ah deep cycle. In other
words, Interstate doesn't necessarily make these batteries. I don't know
anything about your specific model, though...
Hopefully another LISTer will know more.
bob jones <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I'm in the Dallas area and considering conversion of a
gen-1 rx-7. Currently researching battery options.
Interstate has a big local presence. Is anyone
familiar with their deep cycle batteries?
Planning for a 144V pack. Considering:
USRM16TF "multi-purpose deep cycle"
http://www.ibsa.com/www_2001/content/products/product_deepcyclemp.asp
or
U1850 or U1850HC "industrial deep cycle"
http://www.ibsa.com/www_2001/content/products/product_deepcycle.asp
Also trying to balance the cost/range/cycles of optima
yellow (D34 or D31A/T) - does anyone know what the
difference is between D31A and D31T?
Thanks, Jim
__________________________________
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'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 1 Apr 2005 at 20:16, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> In the Solectra
> autos, how do they handle this?
They're not really automatics. They're single speed reduction transaxles,
usually 12:1 IIRC.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Sorry to be a pain again, gang, but please remember that this is an EV
discussion list, not an ICE car diagnosis forum.
You may think that there's value in discussing lead batteries in the context
of ICEs, but believe me they get discussed quite enough in an EV context! I
must tell you that's not a good reason (or excuse ;-).
If you have an ICE problem, please post it to the appropriate Usenet group,
web forum, Yahoo group, etc. If you know someone on the EV list might be
able and willing to help you with an off topic issue, you can try emailing
that person (only) privately. But please do not post on the EV list about
ICE car problems, even those involving batteries.
By the same token, if someone posts an off-topic request such as this,
please either disregard it or, if you wish to answer, email the poster
privately. DO NOT continue off-topic threads on the list.
Thanks.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Apr 1, 2005, at 4:55 PM, Chris Zach wrote:
I like my solution because it will tag red when a 12 volt battery goes
below 11 volts (and into danger land) under load. Plus it will go
green when the battery hits 14.7 volts and yellow when over 15.6
volts. These three values are all you need to know to keep your
batteries safe. Let off on throttle when you see a red LED, check
batteries if one is not green when the rest are and never see a yellow
and you'll be set.
Could you explain your battery watch system? If its an analog devise I
might build one for my EV Buggy. I remember some talk about using a
bicolor LED to find a low battery (kind of an individual battery
battbridge), but nothing comes to mind about a 3 color system in my
memory of the list (I missed something!)
Thanx,
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The A89 drew more amps with the same sprocket so I was afraid to burn it up
like the ETEK. So I put back on the 12 tooth (from 16) & called it a day.
Jerry you mind sending me what's left of your ETEK(I need end clips. The
little connectors on the end of the windings.) I'll pay shipping. I need
6. LR.........
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry dycus" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 4:52 PM
Subject: Re: A89 vs ETEK at 48v
Hi Lawrence and All,
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
The Etek with a 16 tooth sprocket out performed the
A89 with the same
sprocket by 10mph and much better acceleration. 53
mph vs 43mph. Both at
48vdc.
I think the problem here is the A89 isn't being
loaded enough at the voltage you have used. It's an
72vdc motor I believe so would run out of power long
before it should on 48vdc.
I ran both the E-tek on my E-woody and my 36vdc,
from a Citi-car, 100 amp cont GE motor with 3.5 hp
both on 36vdc, easily out pulled my E-tek in the same
setting, especially at starting up where the series
had no problem and the E-tek bit the big one and now
I'm out of the cash I paid for it. They were both
fairly matched at about 3000rpm at 36vdc cont rated.
As a PM, the E-tek did run a little stronger at
top speed as normal but getting to that speed and
starting up a small incline the series motor chewed
the E-tek for lunch!! As did the incline that burnt
the e-teks commutator ruining it.
Had I used field weakening on the series motor as
I had before it would have beat the E-tek badly even
at top speed power and it's rated at 1/3 the
contenuious power the E-tek is!
Too be fair you need to use 1/3 less sprocket
teeth on the A89 to load it enough to work to it's
potential by drawing more amps or run it at 72vdc.
either way it will beat the E-tek easily.
And your E-tek bit it didn't it and why you are
putting the A89 on?
So people shouldn't conclude the E-tek is more
powerful than the A89.
HTH's,
jerry dycus
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
__________________________________
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Yahoo! Personals - Better first dates. More second dates.
http://personals.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Says a spring less hub in the clutch disc reduces weight by 2 lbs and
virtually no chatter. In an EV with the clutch already engaged on
take offs, I don't think there would be any clutch chatter.
Just a thought (as one who owns an 87 Porsche 944S)
The purpose of the rubber center in the clutch is twofold: One it is
used to help engage the clutch smoothly (just like springs)
However the other reason is important as well. It's there to explode if
you put too much torque on it at once. This is not a bad thing per se; I
have found that people who replace the rubber center clutch with the
turbo's spring one tend to break the pinions in the transmission (ie:
break it). The 944T transmission is built more strongly, but still
explodes from time to time. The 944 transmission will not take it.
In my day I have had 3 clutches in my 944S with a total of 210,000 miles
on it. The first one was replaced at 80k or so because it was worn down.
The second went at about 150k because I was flooring it off the line to
race a 944 Turbo (the turbos have greater torque; the 944S has a much
broader power band.) When I hit second I heard a small *boom* in the
driveline. Tore the center apart. However I was able to drive the car
home (there are mechanical stops in there to allow a limp around mode)
and was able to get the car fixed for the cost of a clutch job.
I would recommend strongly leaving the original clutch in and not going
to the turbo model.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob Jones
Are you powering an AC or DC drive? From what I have
read on this list it make a difference in the
recommendations. DC drives the higher the AHr rate the
father it will go. With AC the higher the voltage the
farther it will go. At least that is my understanding
of battery choices in reading both the Metric Mind and
Electroauo websites and their options of drives. And
something to consider when looking at batteries. Also
your range of driving will also make a difference in
what recommendation are made. Good luck and thanks
for the links.
--- Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Interstate is a distributor for other batteries,
> such as USBattery. I'm using (18) USB8VGC to make
> my 144V pack. They are 165 Ah deep cycle. In other
> words, Interstate doesn't necessarily make these
> batteries. I don't know anything about your
> specific model, though...
> Hopefully another LISTer will know more.
>
> bob jones <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'm in the Dallas area and considering conversion of
> a
> gen-1 rx-7. Currently researching battery options.
> Interstate has a big local presence. Is anyone
> familiar with their deep cycle batteries?
>
> Planning for a 144V pack. Considering:
> USRM16TF "multi-purpose deep cycle"
>
http://www.ibsa.com/www_2001/content/products/product_deepcyclemp.asp
>
> or
> U1850 or U1850HC "industrial deep cycle"
>
http://www.ibsa.com/www_2001/content/products/product_deepcycle.asp
>
> Also trying to balance the cost/range/cycles of
> optima
> yellow (D34 or D31A/T) - does anyone know what the
> difference is between D31A and D31T?
>
> Thanks, Jim
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Personals - Better first dates. More second
> dates.
> http://personals.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> '92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
> ____
> __/__|__\ __
> =D-------/ - - \
> 'O'-----'O'-'
> Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came
> out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any gas
> for your kids?
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
Future 72 Super Beetle conversion in progress
__________________________________
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Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On a silver platter:
http://www.saabnet.com/sites/900conversion/900convert.pdf
just google "used saab 900 manual transmission"
Also check for used parts from: http://www.car-part.com/
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: April 1, 2005 8:10 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Automatic Trans SAAB 900E ADVICE!!!!
I have an opportunity to get a GREAT looking Saab 900E 4 door with every
option under the sun! Electric wipers on the headlights, leather seats!
everything! Motor is shot, otherwise pristine.
Here is my question..
This thing has an automatic tranny. Are they ever used?
Also does anyone know if they were made with 5 speeds where you might go to
a junkyard and get one?
I can definitely get my wife to drive this one!!!
Help!!!!!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2005 09:54:14 -0800 (PST)
From: bob jones <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Planning for a 144V pack. Considering:
USRM16TF "multi-purpose deep cycle"
http://www.ibsa.com/www_2001/content/products/product_deepcyclemp.asp
I don't know what style of battery this is, so it is hard to be sure.
If it is of the marine/deep cycle variety, I would avoid it.
U1850 or U1850HC "industrial deep cycle"
http://www.ibsa.com/www_2001/content/products/product_deepcycle.asp
This, I think, is the larger version of the U1450, otherwise known as
U.S. battery EV-145. I had reasonably good experience with these in
my Rabbit.
I would talk to Nawaz Qureshi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> about these
batteries and their suitability for your application. I found his
advice to be good.
Ken
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What a great article!
I really appreciate all the great links folks have been sending me!
The car I am getting is a 95 Saab 900 E. It has the auto tranny. From what
I am getting here on the forum, however, it might be an advantage with the
locking torque converter to use the automatic anyway. The engine is totally
siezed, so I am going to saw the aluminium block in half and attempt to use
the back of it as a mount. The advantage would be running power steering,
etc, the disadvantage using more power. I believe an ingenious mounting
bracket and a double shaft motor would give me some good features.
I have had the vehicle secured in a shed until I can get around to doing
more with it, most likely next month. It is a hatchback model which looks
to be great for battery storage. A lot of weighty items can be taken out.
Overall the 95 is not as large a car as my wife's 2000 malibu and I am not
sure about it's curb weight. I plan to tow it to a scale as soon as I have
it fitted with a towbar ( A must in my opinion) and I can use my trusty ford
pickup to move it around.
I am going to have to research the suspension to determine the battery mass
it will support and the size of motor I can afford and that will be
adequate. We were able to push the car around with relative ease yesterday
so I don' t see it as a "heavyweight" by any definition. My sense is an 8"
motor will drive it ok.
This car has what I would categorize as the ultimate braking system for an
EV, four HUGE disc brakes! If the rest of the car is as good as the brakes,
it will be fun to drive.
:-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2005 8:52 AM
Subject: RE: Automatic Trans SAAB 900E ADVICE!!!!
On a silver platter:
http://www.saabnet.com/sites/900conversion/900convert.pdf
just google "used saab 900 manual transmission"
Also check for used parts from: http://www.car-part.com/
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: April 1, 2005 8:10 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Automatic Trans SAAB 900E ADVICE!!!!
I have an opportunity to get a GREAT looking Saab 900E 4 door with every
option under the sun! Electric wipers on the headlights, leather seats!
everything! Motor is shot, otherwise pristine.
Here is my question..
This thing has an automatic tranny. Are they ever used?
Also does anyone know if they were made with 5 speeds where you might go
to
a junkyard and get one?
I can definitely get my wife to drive this one!!!
Help!!!!!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So what kind of life are people averaging with the Trojans? Assuming you
water and feed them properly..
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2005 12:17 AM
Subject: Re: Interstate Batteries
On 1 Apr 2005 at 9:54, bob jones wrote:
Interstate has a big local presence. Is anyone
familiar with their deep cycle batteries?
Interstate Workaholic batteries are US Battery brand. Many EV hobbyists
have used them over the years.
If you have a vehicle with enough load capacity, golf car batteries will
be
your best value in terms of cost per mile of service. A 144v pack of them
will weigh close to 1600 lb. Too much weight? Floor sweeper 12-volters
and
the 8 volt golf car batteries will both provide lower current and shorter
life, but are better than the marine batteries, which will die quickly.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
It seems sad that only one person has even bothered to respond to the
meat of my post to the list. Everyone else has focussed on the one thing
I thought they would when I finished the first one. If I hadn't
mentioned the President, nobody would have said a thing. Attempting to
clarify what I meant in the second post didn't help get my point across,
and only seems to have served to focus people more on the fact that the
President was mentioned. What an interesting turn of events.
At this point, I've only been watching this mailing list for about a
week or two. I've already realized it's not worth my time to continue
arguing the validity of my words, or to even wade through the enormous
amount of useless crap coming from this list. This is by no means an
inclusive group of people- you snipe at each other and act superior in
half of the posts I've read. How do you expect to help people if you
post personal attacks for the slightest misstep?
I'l leave you all with that thought, and remove myself from this mailing
list.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
signoff ev
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff Shanab wrote:
> I think the torque converter is seperate from the pump, there are 2
> spline shafts...
The torque converter I had apart had *3* splined shafts to the
transaxle. In the center was the actual input shaft to the transmission.
Around that was a shaft that connected the torque reaction blades inside
the torque converter to a one-way clutch in the transmission. The third
was the actual case of torque converter, being spun by the ICE -- it
drove the hydraulic pump in the transmission.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David Roden wrote:
> No need to apologize, CL, but it's always best to stay as far away
> from politics as you possibly can.
Ghandi said something like, "I do not like politics, and avoid it when I
can. But sometimes it encircles me like a snake, and I have no choice
but to fight back."
I think this is a good philosophy. The list should stick to EVs, though
at times we will have no choice but to get political or be strangled by
"the snake".
So to me, discussing politics makes sense in the context of news reports
about EVs, or to inform people about laws being passed that directly
affect EVs, or whenever there are concrete actions people can take.
Posters should also apply the "Cronkite test". Ask yourself "Would
Walter Cronkite have said this?" He was the most respected journalist in
America, because he bent over backwards to be fair and impartial in how
he presented the news. Stick to the facts. No name-calling. Leave out
your own opinions, as they aren't going to change anyone's mind anyway.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I took the plunge and bought myself an OEM EV: a 1998 S-10 that has been
upgraded to NiMH batteries. And I'm enjoying it!
OK, I feel a little weird as it is in a way supporting the company that
refused to sell the EV-1's, but... it also is proving that they did in
fact develop a nice electric drive train.
Compared to my 1992 converted S-10, this truck is nicer in many ways.
The immediate pull off the line from a stop is a little less then when I
had a 1200 amp controller in the conversion, but better than with the
present 600 amp controller. And the OEM trucks acceleration once moving
is way better than the conversion ever was. I also drive a 1997 bi-fuel
S-10 with a 2.2L engine... the electric has more power! With good
acceleration and the quiet ride it is all too easy to speed :-)
It comes with power steering and air-conditioning (heat pump) for proper
creature comfort. The one down side (IMHO) is the use of a diesel heater
for cabin and battery heat when below about 38 degrees F outside. So no
instant heat and not pure electric. I can't complain too mush as I was
never able to find the time to build the "ultimate" conversion myself (yet).
I have a collection of 3 Magne Chargers to use with it... the owners
manual implies a 120 volt opportunity version exists which I wish was
true as having to haul a 240 volt Magne Charger with me for a road trip
is the one major down side. Hopefully someone will crack the computers
someday and then I can add another charger.
It's on the road now, with 45 miles as the longest trip so far... which
was no where near empty. I'll get the ladder racks on it soon and it
will be my daily driver. <G>
And yes, this means my 1992 S-10 conversion will be for sale as a
'project' truck.
--
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak's
1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
http://www.eeevee.com
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--- Begin Message ---
M Bianchi wrote:
The Tour can only accept the entries it receives. If you want more BEVs, then
you need to enter more BEVs. I assure you they are not being pushed aside to
make room for the others.
Andrea Bachus Kohler wrote:
> Tour De Sol did not sell out. It's the lack of BEVs that show up to
> the race that has cause the transition. I started going in 1993 so
> I know how EV intensive it used to be, high school, college,
> independents, everyone.
There may be a bit of a catch-22 in place here...
In the early 90's, NESEA put out the rules and route for the TdS each
fall and hosted workshops with presentation tracks geared to school
teams walking them through the details of how to get a conversion up and
running and into the race (or into other races... read "Electric Dreams"
by Caroline Kettlwell). I was at those circa 1990-92 (gulp!), hearing
all kids of exciting things as Tufts U entered their first car and later
I entered my goofy e-bike.
Now they put the rules out in the spring and if you have something that
matches, you enter. I'm sure they'd explain that there wasn't enough
interest to keep running the workshops, but without the workshops there
won't be many EV entries in the TdS and the cycle will continue.
I do know that this year some Dynasty low-speed electric cars
(www.itiselectric.com) will be on display so a little more than just
e-bikes.
PS their "alternative fuels" isn't all that inclusive either... I
regularly drive my natural gas truck from Boston to (near) Albany, which
is one of the Monte Carlo routes, but doing it on the TdS schedule
wouldn't get me much.
--
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak's
1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bruce Weisenberger wrote:
> Are you powering an AC or DC drive? From what I have read on this
> list it make a difference in the recommendations. DC drives the
> higher the AHr rate the farther it will go. With AC the higher the
> voltage the farther it will go.
No; AC vs. DC is not the issue. It only indirectly affects battery
choice. You pick your controller, and it sets the voltage you need. You
then pick the size and number of batteries based on the voltage and the
space available.
For a given range, you need a given number of WATTHOURS of battery. Not
voltage, not amphours, but watthours. The voltage of each battery, and
the total voltage they are wired for does not change the watthours.
Each type of battery (lead-acid, nicad, nimh, lithium) delivers a basic
number of watthours per pound; so, pick your battery type, and you know
how many pounds of batteries you need.
Now, when you know the voltage and the pounds of batteries, you can
figure out how many you need. Suppose you need 240v and 1000 lbs of
lead-acid batteries. 240v / 6v = 40 golf cart batteries; they would
weigh 40 x 62 lbs = 2480 lbs! So, they aren't an option. 240v / 12v = 20
12v batteries. 1000 lbs / 20 = 50 lbs per battery; thus you can use
Optima AGMs (45 lbs each) or Trojan 27TMS floodeds (50 lbs each).
The other big factor is how you drive. Suppose this EV has a 50kw AC
drive. At 240v, that's only 200 amps maximum. Floodeds can handle this.
But if you have a Zilla, which can draw 1500 amps maximum, you'd better
use AGMs, or your battery life will be extremely short.
The flip side is range. If your 240v EV draws 25 amps cruising (6kw),
the flooded 27TMS can do this for 145 minutes -- that's 72 miles at 30
mph. But the Optima AGM can only do 25a for 124 minutes -- 62 miles.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- Begin Message ---
CopperLion wrote:
> It seems sad that only one person has even bothered to respond
> to the meat of my post to the list. Everyone else has focussed
> on the one thing I thought they would when I finished the first
> one.
Dear CopperLion,
Remember that the EV list is a very busy list. It can easily produce
100+ messages a day. Therefore, a tradition has developed that we
generally don't post responses when we agree with something. If we did,
the list would be flooded with "Me, too!" and "I agree" messages.
So, when you post something and get no response, you should imagine
dozens of heads nodding "yes", even though they don't say anything.
If people disagree with something, THEN they will post a response. If
they agree with all of your post except one point, the best response is
to say "I agree, but..." That is what I try to do, and so do most other
people. But, people being what they are, sometimes they forget the first
part.
You saw examples of this in the responses to your GM hydrogen car post.
We *agree* with the basic content. It was on-topic, informative, and
reported the news in a way that illustrated the absurdity of it in
comparison to crushing the EVs. It was only the political part where you
presented your opinions that some people commented on.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- Begin Message ---
It has 20000 miles on it its very clean,does not have the charger and I am
sure the battery pack is dead.It has the 8 volt batteries. $12,000 contact
off list Dennis Berube
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--- Begin Message ---
I insured the Beetle, strapped in the seat belts and took it out for its
first drive around the block (about 7km). It works just great. Of course
there are a lot of minor things to fix and tune, but all was generally
working well (except for the EMeter). Here are some interesting things:
1. MR2 PS Pump: I have the pump operated by a foot switch. After a few
off and ons, I just left it on, as the steering is too jerky otherwise.
Turns out that there is more road noise, and I can barely hear the pump.
2. The Siemens controller had the fan on for most of the time. I need to
talk to Victor about what are normal operating temperatures for the drive.
3. I limited the battery current to 60Amps. It provided slow acceleration,
but still kept up with traffic in the neighbourhood, while driving on the
flats. I will increase it to 150Amps as I learn more about the controller.
4. I have no clutch, although I kept the gear shifter (for now). In town
driving, up to 55kmh (30mph) seems to work just fine in 2nd gear. Smooth
starts, no jerkiness at all. (I am very pleased about this).
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
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I'll post the "official" news release when it becomes available, but thought
you might be interested in the results of the EV Challenge 2004-2005 school
year.
Thirty four schools began the school year, participating in program
education activities and working throughout the year with the objective of
competing in the two day FINAL EVENT competition held near Raleigh, NC on
April 1st and 2nd . This year Easter was earlier than normal and as a
result spring break was earlier for a number of schools, resulting in
several not being able to participate in the competition. Despite this a
estimated 400 students braved thunderstorms, rain and wind for the 2 day
event.
The overall competition was won by Miramar High School (
http://www.evchallenge.org/04-05/2005HSwebs/miramar/index.htm ), Miramar
Florida with their black Porsche. Second and third place were won by
Monongalia City Technical Education Center
(http://www.evchallenge.org/04-05/2005HSwebs/monongalia/index.htm) with
their Mazda MX3 and Ranger pickup. Monongalia City Technical Education
Center is located in Morgantown, WV.
The EV Challenge requires students to participate in a number of activities
including the design and conversion of a vehicle to compete in both a range
and autocross competition.
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I promised I'd help Lou find a connector for a Curtis 1221 Regen model. It
has a special Molex� 10 pin connector. It just so happens after examination
I remembered that a PS2 powersupply connector looked simular. I happened to
have one I saved from a bad power supply and it's a 20 pin but can be
modified to fit. I was to meet Lou at Crowdens Garage SOMA area of San
Francisco. He was there for (to my amazement) the Arcane Auto Society
yearly meeting.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Arcane_autos/
I saw there many of the autos we aspire to convert to electric here. (very
light) I saw Messerschmidt 2 seater, three wheeler. A real one. Not a
kit. Some were for sale. I saw a Fiat 750 Racer that was just beautiful.
Isettas, Honda 600, Mini, King, Multipa 600 6 seater. 2CV etc. There was
even one VW fastback converted to electricity that's how Lou got there with
the owner. Bruce from Santa Clara has a Honda 600 which he is converting to
an EV. He purchased on the web a DC9 Starter motor ready to go and machined
to go with the honda tranny already installed. I invited him to sign up to
the EV list for advice. He is trying to decide how big to make the battery
pack. This group might be a source for light weight autos to convert. These
guys and gals like us have their passion and they might have their ear to
the ground for finding gliders a bit better than we do. They will do ground
up restorations. They are nice people and it's worth a try. Funny how
things work out. I did this guy a favor and was repaid many fold. If
nothing else it was very interesting seeing all the exotic mini cars.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
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--- Begin Message ---
I replaced my blown E-Meter with a new unit today. It all worked, so I
programmed it, then tested it, and I realized the current was reading
backwards.
So I shut everything down, then swapped the leads on pins 2 and 3 (which go
to the shunt). I checked the connections again then powered it up.
Nothing, blank, do display of any kind.
I tested all the connections with a volt meter (carefully), and the E-Meter
has power, ground and voltage from the prescaler.
Any ideas?
thanks
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ <BLOCKED::http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/>
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--- Begin Message ---
1) When you removed and reinstalled the fuses, did you do it in the
specified order? Sometimes it makes a difference. Always hook up the blue
wire first, then the red according to page 18 of the manual. Make sure you
don't have a noisy powerup because it can scramble the microcontroller.
2) Did the bargraph come on? Did the Circle letters (V,A,Ah, &T) come on? If
they did, it means the power is connected (pin 5), but there is too little
voltage on the sense input (pin 4). In the Low Voltage section of the manual
(p25), it says the voltage on pin 4 must be at least 10 volts to get the
digits to illuminate.
3) The meter might come up configured for no prescaler. If you press the SET
button for three seconds, you can then press the SEL button until F13 shows
in the display. Press SET until 1 is showing for a 100 volt prescaler or 2
is showing for a 500 volt prescaler. Press SEL to exit the F13 setup.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2005 2:49 PM
Subject: E-Meter Blues
> I replaced my blown E-Meter with a new unit today. It all worked, so I
> programmed it, then tested it, and I realized the current was reading
> backwards.
>
> So I shut everything down, then swapped the leads on pins 2 and 3 (which
go
> to the shunt). I checked the connections again then powered it up.
> Nothing, blank, do display of any kind.
>
> I tested all the connections with a volt meter (carefully), and the
E-Meter
> has power, ground and voltage from the prescaler.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> thanks
> Don
>
>
> Victoria, BC, Canada
>
> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ <BLOCKED::http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Dennis,
I sold my last EV (VERY regretfully) just after the 911 mess. Here it
is in happier days, http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/021.html
We have since moved from Wa State back to California (jobs/kids/etc.)
last year and I bought a another "glider" ('95 318i) for what I'm
hoping will be BattcarII. The problem (as usual) is time and money.
Any chance you would be interested in trading? My car is worth about
the same as what you're asking for the '98 Ranger. It would certainly
shorten up the conversion cycle for me to get back to EV'n fulltime
which I sorely miss.
My work commute is ~10 miles one way and I'm 100% sure my employer
would install whatever charger/infrastructure needed for opportunity
charging. But even with a fresh set of 8V batteries, a 20 mile round
trip is a piece of cake anyway.
Let me know if you want to pursue.
Best regards,
Jim Waite
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone know the internet address for the Solectria Force Discussion Group
or List ?
Thanks,
Menlo Park III,
Bill
___________________________________________________________________
Speed up your surfing with Juno SpeedBand.
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/force_ev/
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: April 2, 2005 3:55 PM
To: [email protected]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Solectria Force Discussion Group
Does anyone know the internet address for the Solectria Force Discussion
Group or List ?
Thanks,
Menlo Park III,
Bill
___________________________________________________________________
Speed up your surfing with Juno SpeedBand.
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Bob Jones
> Are you powering an AC or DC drive? From what I have
> read on this list it make a difference in the
> recommendations. DC drives the higher the AHr rate the
> father it will go. With AC the higher the voltage the
> farther it will go. At least that is my understanding
> of battery choices in reading both the Metric Mind and
> Electroauo websites and their options of drives.
Nope, sorry. For range what counts is WattHours, that is volts * Amp Hours.
Simply having higher voltage doesn't give you more range unless you
maintain or increase the amp hours. i.e a 240V 10Ah pack will have far
less range than a 120V 30Ah pack in any vehicle. AC or DC doesn't matter.
In DC drives, high voltage can cause problems with arcing on the
comutator, so they usually select low voltage and high current.
AC doesn't have a comutator so this isn't a problem and most of the
currently available AC drive systems are designed to use high voltage (
>200V) which improves efficiency slightly.
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