EV Digest 4351
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Static buildup on EVs
by jimevdl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Bans on Motorized Scooters Increasing - Yahoo! News
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Bans on Motorized Scooters Increasing - Yahoo! News, OOPs wrong
address, ignore
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Australian suppliers (WAS: RE: big DC motor)
by "Ben Haines" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: "eBay hype" or innovation?
by "Ben Haines" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: GP3300 Ultimate Racing Battery?
by Bob Siebert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: cruise control?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Re: Home made charge question (where?)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
9) Re: Static buildup on EVs
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
10) Australian regs/insurance (WAS RE: Australian suppliers)
by "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: GE Ecomagination: For Business, Green is Green(From the green car
congress)
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Home made charge question (where?)
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Home made charge question
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: GP3300 Ultimate Racing Battery?
by D B <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Charger schematic
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Jeep EV: PFC timer position
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Jeep EV: PFC timer position
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Charger schematic
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Files access, was Re: Charger schematic
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
20) Re: newbie intro
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Plasma Boy Racing Update
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: newbie intro
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Files access, was Re: Charger schematic
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Croatia (was Re: Bans on Motorized Scooters Inc ...)
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: cruise control?
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Home made charge question
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Bans on Motorized Scooters Increasing - Yahoo! News
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: GP3300 Ultimate Racing Battery?
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Charger schematic
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---Have you changed seat covers or your wardrobe? I'm sure a huge amount of the potential, between you and the door handle, is due to sliding out of the driver's seat. Your car may sit lower (added battery lbs.), so your position as you slide out of the driver's seat may make the static worse than before. My Celica really squats since the conversion, and it takes much more effort to "climb" out. (spring upgrade in the works...) A trick I learned was to touch the metal car body with a key, not your fingertip. You still dump a charge, but the point of concentration is at the end of the key, not at a nerve ending. (you can still feel it, but it helps a lot). By the way, this works inside your house walking across the carpet, before you touch the doorknob, but I'm veering off-topic... Jim Seibert -----Original Message----- From: Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: May 9, 2005 6:18 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Static buildup on EVs Just curious, all; As an ICE, my Civic would shock me in certain times of the year. Needless to say, it's quite the aerodynamic shape, and as it cuts through dry air, that makes sense. Now as an EV, I get shocked the WHOLE year. It's not a nasty zap, just a normal static discharge as I shut the door. I can't remember the VoltsRabbit doing that. Any bright ideas why it happens? Floating pack in both, so...? '92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V ____ __/__|__\ __ =D-------/ - - \ 'O'-----'O'-' Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids? Yahoo! Mail Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour: http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
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--- Begin Message ---Hi Ken,
I am back from Croatia. What a pleasant surprise to go see a democracy. Well I am back in this police state. Are you ready to ask the foot forward in his mouth dude for a public discussion of his report.
Roderick
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Trough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>; "Zappy List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 2:53 PM
Subject: Bans on Motorized Scooters Increasing - Yahoo! News
http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/no_room_to_zoom
FYI
-Ken Trough Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine http://visforvoltage.com AIM - ktrough FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
-- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.8 - Release Date: 5/10/2005
-- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.8 - Release Date: 5/10/2005
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--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Trough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>; "Zappy List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 2:53 PM
Subject: Bans on Motorized Scooters Increasing - Yahoo! News
http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/no_room_to_zoom
FYI
-Ken Trough Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine http://visforvoltage.com AIM - ktrough FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
-- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.8 - Release Date: 5/10/2005
-- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.8 - Release Date: 5/10/2005
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--- Begin Message ---Thank you all for your help it is greatly appreciated. This email also reminded me of another question, what do we have to do to get our vehicles certified to be roadworthy by the RTA? Is it a hard or expensive process? Ben Haines -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Hay Sent: Monday, 2 May 2005 8:42 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Australian suppliers (WAS: RE: big DC motor) On 1/05/2005 5:42 PM, Claudio Natoli wrote: > nice to see another Sydney-sider here! > > Ben Haines writes: > >>I'm trying to build an EV in Sydney Australia but having >>trouble to find suppliers in australia. DO you or anybody >>else have any contacts of suppliers? Shaun Williams of Brisbane is doing a Toyota Echo conversion and has a list of local suppliers he's used and prices paid here: http://www.electric-echo.com/prices.htm Good website! http://www.electric-echo.com/ Car is finished and going through Qld Transport certification now. -- Regards, Brian Hay.<<attachment: winmail.dat>>
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--- Begin Message ---So your saying from your experiance, these battery revival that they are able to bring back the capacity but the batteries still had a high internal discharge? Quite promising. I wonder how a set of batteries would go over time if they periodicaly had the battery rivial done to them as part of routine maintainalnce? Ben -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Neon John Sent: Wednesday, 11 May 2005 4:16 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: "eBay hype" or innovation? On Mon, 9 May 2005 15:58:56 -0700, "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >I remember that an EVent in Vancouver mentioned battery revival. Any >word >from that EVent that it worked. LR...... I've done some lab testing on the pulse type desulfator. I tested the Battery Minder version on a Group 27 deep cycle battery that had been laying around in my recycle pile for a couple of years. After several cycles to stabilize the "before" capacity it measured 27ah on my discharge tester. After 24 hours of pulsing it measured 45 ah. After two weeks it measured 85ah. Rated capacity is 105ah nominal. I tested at 5 amps, the 20 hour rate. What was interesting was that if I cycled the battery occasionally and kept it on charge in the intervals the capacity held up. But if I took the charger off and let the battery sit "fully charged" even for a few days, the capacity would drop by half. Another week of pulsing would bring it back mostly. That battery is now one of my shop batteries and sits with the Battery Minder attached all the time. It passes the 500 amp carbon pile discharge with no problems. I'd guess the battery is >7 years old and spent its first 3 years in my motorhome at the hands of an abusive constant voltage charger that gassed it badly. John >----- Original Message ----- >From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "EV Discussion List" <[email protected]> >Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 1:24 PM >Subject: "eBay hype" or innovation? > > >> More pulse charging or something new? Found this on eBay, but I'd be >> suspect of >> any "battery revival" technology: >> >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7514789483 >> > --- John De Armond [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN
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--- Begin Message --- Does anyone recall a mention about 3-4 weeks ago about a Hawker battery which also looked very good for high power loads?
/Bob On May 10, 2005, at 9:36 AM, David Dymaxion wrote:
Disclaimer: I have no finanical interest in the success or failure of the makers of the GP3300 batteries.
Naturally I now can't find the web page that has the graphs I'm quoting from, but at least I saved the graphs.
One graph shows the GP3300 battery has an average discharge voltage of about 1.05 volts at 50 amps, going for aout 230 seconds before hitting 0.9 volts.
The 2nd graph shows about a 0.87 average voltage , and 112 seconds before hitting 0.6 V cutoff for a 100 amp discharge. It stays above 0.9 V for 42 seconds, and above 0.8 V for 91 seconds. The battery weighs only 65 grams (= 0.065 kg)!
0.9 V * 100 Amps = 90 W 90 W / 0.065 kg = 1.4 kW/kg (!)
It amazed me, too, that 100 A * 112 seconds / (3600 seconds / hr) = 3.1 Ahr, for a 3.3 Ahr battery being driven very hard!
Wow, Kokam (http://www.kokam.com/english/product/battery03.html#2) says their cells will do 1 kW/kg, as does Saft for their high power lithiums. The best Nicads I know about (Sanyo N3000CR) are about 1 kw/kg. The Kokams do hold alot more energy (more range), about 3 times as much, and prices for similar amounts of power are similar.
For comparison, an Optima or Orbital will do about 10 kW / 18 kg = 0.56 kw/kg.
So a pack of 28 Orbitals will do about 280 kW ~ 280 rwhp. The same weight in GP3300 batteries would have 700 rwhp! The GP3300 would also have almost no peukert effect and triple the range.
More disclaimers: This equivalent weight pack would be about $55k at full retail price (or have a 28 Orbital power equivalent pack, half the weight and "only" $25k). I don't know how long the batteries would last at these kinds of currents. I don't know how hard it would be to parallel 20 to 30 strings of these cells.
__________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
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--- Begin Message ---> It would be easy to rig up an existing cruise control mechanism for an > ICE to your controller potbox, provided you had a vacuum source. > > Matthew Holthausen > > > On May 10, 2005, at 1:34 PM, mike golub wrote: > > > Is there any cruise control on EV's? > > > > Easiest system to impliment cruise control might be SepEx - shunt motors *want* to stay at a constant speed when supplied a constant field current! Being non-technical, I'd be lazy and just have a switch to allow a secondary pot on the steering wheel, but this wouldn't allow a smooth transition to cruise; what you really want is a push button for a constant setting at whatever your throttle pot is showing at that time, and a couple buttons for accel/decel, and something on the brake to disengage like the ICE version.
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--- Begin Message ---> I get to the the list through Yahoo, I'm not familiar with the SJSU side of things. I uploaded the > file to Yahoo but I'll try and figure out how to post it to SJSU too. > > Dave Cover This is what I do, too - set email off and peruse the Yahoo listing only. But I didn't the file either, and since you are not suppose to join the EVDL via the Yahoo archives, how can we access the files section (or chat, post, photos, polls... anything listed in the left column other than Messages and Home)?
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--- Begin Message ---> You might try an anti-static strap. It attaches to the chassis at the rear, > and hangs down far enough to contact the roadway. > ...or the (you may be a) Redneck version: a piece of scrap wire looped under a bolt way under the car at one end and dangling on the ground at the other...
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--- Begin Message ---Ben Haines writes: > This email also reminded me of another question, what do we > have to do to get our vehicles certified to be roadworthy by > the RTA? In theory: * You modify the car in accordance with the Australia Design Rules (the RTA has a document called "Guidelines for Light Vehicle Modifications", which is a good starting point on the ADRs, but I can't seem to find it online; I can send you the pdf directly, but can't guarantee that it is current) * Engineer signs off on vehicle modifications (http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi15.pdf) * Take the car to the "pits" for an inspection/blue-slip * Insure, register, drive, grin. > Is it a hard or expensive process? It needn't be, in theory. As I'm close to starting this process, I'll add that it is probably safe to assume you might need to go back and forth a couple times with the Engineer + inspection body. As far as insurance goes, a question for other Aussies: So far, we've found that only two insurers (Shannons and Torque) will offer insurance. None of the "big" names we spoke to will currently offer coverage to EV owners (although some have in the past). Is this the same as your experience? Cheers, Claudio
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--- Begin Message ---Lawrence Rhodes wrote: > Maybe this is the time to contact GE. I have a GE motor and controller in > my EV. They have been doing this for a long time. Maybe where the big auto > manufacturers won't GE will. LR>...... > General Electric Chairman and CEO Jeff Immelt today announced > "ecomagination," an aggressive GE initiative to bring to market new clean > energy technologies. I just saw an ad on TV last night for one of their railroad locomotives. Also the new issue of Newsweek has an ad for that locomotive in it. Seems they are on a media blitz of some sort. http://ge.ecomagination.com/
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--- Begin Message ---[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > didn't find the file either, and since you are not suppose to join the EVDL > via the > Yahoo archives, how can we access the files section (or chat, post, photos, > polls... anything listed in the left column other than Messages and Home)? You have to "join" the Yahoo thing to be able to get at the file section: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ev/ It loads for me just fine...
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--- Begin Message ---Joe Smalley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > I would say the ripple VOLTAGE is the important factor to > life of an AGM. As long as the terminal voltage stays under > the gassing voltage, no permanent damage is done. > > I agree that the ripple CURRENT causes unnecessary heating of > the battery. Sometimes you want the heat. > > PFC chargers have a lot of CURRENT ripple at full load and > almost none at light loads near end of charge when it becomes > important. Right. For instance, Exide says the following for their Orbitals: "AC Ripple Charge Limitations: Some DC chargers will have what is referred to as an AC ripple wave-form to the charging input. Excessive ripple can cause battery heating and gassing resulting in reduced life. Ripple current excursions during the float charging phase should not exceed 1 Amp for every 100 AH of nominal capacity (approx 0.75 amps for most Orbital sizes). Ripple voltage excursions during float should not exceed +/-5% of the float voltage." Hawker, on the other hand, wants less than +/-2% peak-to-peak variation of the charge voltage. Cheers, Roger.
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--- Begin Message ---David Dymaxion wrote:
According to Quiet Flyer magazine, this company now produces GP 3700 cells with even more capacity. Steve Neu, of Neumotors.com, did a test on them last month. He also mentioned he used them for short bursts of power above 200 amps. Where did you find any graphs on these batteries? Aloha. David BettencourtDisclaimer: I have no finanical interest in the success or failure of the makers of the GP3300 batteries.
Naturally I now can't find the web page that has the graphs I'm quoting from, but at least I saved the graphs.
One graph shows the GP3300 battery has an average discharge voltage of about 1.05 volts at 50 amps, going for aout 230 seconds before hitting 0.9 volts.
The 2nd graph shows about a 0.87 average voltage , and 112 seconds before hitting 0.6 V cutoff for a 100 amp discharge. It stays above 0.9 V for 42 seconds, and above 0.8 V for 91 seconds. The battery weighs only 65 grams (= 0.065 kg)!
0.9 V * 100 Amps = 90 W 90 W / 0.065 kg = 1.4 kW/kg (!)
It amazed me, too, that 100 A * 112 seconds / (3600 seconds / hr) = 3.1 Ahr, for a 3.3 Ahr battery being driven very hard!
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--- Begin Message ---Dave Cover wrote: > Well, I finally found the schematic for the Home Made Charger I > mentioned a week or so ago. I've uploaded it to the files section > of the EV group. At least I hope I did. If it's not there let me > know and I'll try again. You didn't mention where you uploaded it. There are lots of "EV groups" -- address please? > I moved the 120 volt, 5 amp fuse to between the variac and the bridge. This will work; but you basically have your bases covered by having 2 fuses/circuit breakers; one on the AC input, and one on the DC output. You don't need a third one between the variac and bridge. Make sure the one on the DC output is DC rated for the voltage it will actually see! Everything else sounds correct! -- If you would not be forgotten When your body's dead and rotten Then write of great deeds worth the reading Or do the great deeds worth repeating -- Ben Franklin, Poor Richard's Almanac -- Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- Begin Message ---Hi Nick and everyone,
Nick wrote:
Okay, the _yellow_ arrow in the photo is what I've been perceiving as the direction in which the pot is currently set (9:00). However, after looking at the photo I took, I see an indention in the pot head that looks like _that_ might be the thing indicating the direction, which would be what the _red_ arrow in the photo is suggesting (6:00). Which is it?
Link: http://www.driveev.com/temp/timerpot1.jpg
Unless Rich corrects me, the red arrow in your picture is the timer position. This would probably help explain why you've been getting less charge time than expected.
-Ryan -- - EV Source - Zillas, PFC Chargers, and other EV stuff at great prices E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
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--- Begin Message ---Yeppers - the red arrow in your picture it "the" arrow. Little hard to find huh? Victoria, BC, Canada See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ryan Bohm Sent: May 10, 2005 7:18 PM To: EV List Subject: Jeep EV: PFC timer position Hi Nick and everyone, Nick wrote: > Okay, the _yellow_ arrow in the photo is what I've been perceiving as > the direction in which the pot is currently set (9:00). However, after > looking at the photo I took, I see an indention in the pot head that > looks like _that_ might be the thing indicating the direction, which > would be what the _red_ arrow in the photo is suggesting (6:00). Which > is it? > > Link: http://www.driveev.com/temp/timerpot1.jpg Unless Rich corrects me, the red arrow in your picture is the timer position. This would probably help explain why you've been getting less charge time than expected. -Ryan -- - EV Source - Zillas, PFC Chargers, and other EV stuff at great prices E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
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--- Begin Message ------ Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > You didn't mention where you uploaded it. There are lots of "EV groups" > -- address please? > This is the yahoo group I uploaded it to. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ev/ The name of the file is SimpleChargerSchematic.jpg. I thought this was the list that shared the SJSU list. I also thought everyone on the list might have access to this location. I didn't realize that there are members of the SJSU list who are not Yahoo members and cannot access the file section. Does anyone know how to get the file to the SJSU site for people to access? Thanks Dave Cover
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--- Begin Message ---> > You didn't mention where you uploaded it. There are lots of "EV groups" > > -- address please? > > > > This is the yahoo group I uploaded it to. > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ev/ > > The name of the file is SimpleChargerSchematic.jpg. > > I thought this was the list that shared the SJSU list. I also thought everyone on the list might > have access to this location. I didn't realize that there are members of the SJSU list who are not > Yahoo members and cannot access the file section. Does anyone know how to get the file to the SJSU > site for people to access? > No-one on the SJSU list has actual access to anything on Yahoo - SJSU is just a mailing list processor. I don't use the "ev" forum, since it is the equivalent of the digest version - I only use "ev-list-archive" since it usually shows all posts within minutes of them getting sent by the SJSU listproc, but ev-list-archive doesn't allow anyone to join. There use to be a specific file repository for the ev list somewhere, but I don't see any link on evdl.org
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--- Begin Message ---Tom Koehler wrote: > been doing a lot of thinking about an electric car > conversion project, and have decided to act. > first reference book is "Build Your Own Electric Vehicle" by Bob Brant. > Though it is about 10 years old, I'm hoping it will still be a good > starting point for me. It's good enough. Consider the basic scope of the project: motor, controller, charger, battery pack. Sure there are some small details like the motor adapter, cabling, boxes or racks, etc. It's all just a matter of money... The act of the conversion is as simple as can be. Got money? > I've looked for reference to a list of FAQ's for this group, but so far > have failed to find such a reference. Is there such a list? Not really, though I'm not sure exactly what you are searching for? > the donor car would be my '93 2-door Explorer. Should work just fine considering it's based on the Ford Ranger. Even better that you already have a vehicle for the conversion. There is also a lot of weight that could be removed if you are concerned with how much it weighs. If not, then just convert it and drive it. Any chance of getting it on a truck scale and seeing what it's current curb weight is? > condition) My intention is to convert it to front wheel drive, > connecting the drive motor directly to the transfer case. The transfer > case has two "speeds" 1:1 and 2:1. Most usage will be in town, so the > 2:1 gear should suffice. When I do decide to take this vehicle out of > town, I believe the 1:1 gear should work out. There's no serious > hill-climbing ability needed. Replace the conventional rear axle and > differential with a "straight" axle from another front wheel drive > vehicle. If you are CERTAIN that you can pull this off and that it will be easy for you to do, then by all means, do it this way. However, it would be much, much, much simpler and you would be driving this EV conversion much sooner if you just pulled the motor and replaced it with the electric motor. Think about mounting that big motor under there and coupling it with the transfer case... That motor isn't a trivial amount of weight either.. What *I* would do, is remove the transfer case, and front drive shaft and convert the vehicle to 2 wheel drive(rear), for less weight, and less rotating mass. Just leave the front suspension as is. Still though, it would be easier to just do a motor swap, and leave the drive line intact. >The contemplated system would be 120 volts DC. Go with a higher voltage pack if you have the space/money. (more range, better performance) Have you picked out your motor/controller/charger/batteries yet? What other questions do you have? When are you planning on doing this conversion? ------ Is the vehicle currently an automatic? If so, would you be mounting the electric motor where the automatic was? Would be an interesting conversion thats for sure.. I'd like to see this project completed.
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--- Begin Message ---Hello to All, Things are progressing at an intense rate for both the White Zombie and Purple Phaze racing projects. The company I forklift wrench for, NW Handling Systems, is my newest sponsor to join the team. They have given me permission to use my service truck as a track base vehicle, complete with its on-board 7.5 kw welder-generator, air compressor, and sutuffed full with all my tricked out tools, inverter system, microwave, various lighting systems, drill press, grinder, cables, conectors, contactors, etc. This shop on wheels will be very helpful for us as it has most everything one might need at a race track, and, it will be great advertising for the company, as hundreds of car guys, many of whom work blue collar type jobs where forklifts are used, will see it every weekend we're at the track. Dutchman Motorsports has completed the high strength stainless steel dual armature shaft for White Zombie's new 'Siamese 8' motor....quite simply, it's a work of art and a shame to hide it inside the new motor! The Dutchman surprised me with a very generous amount of sponsorship help on the new shaft, too, so that really helps. I delivered the new shaft to Hi Torque Electric this morning on my trip to central Oregon for work related duties. Jim Husted and I went over how the new motor will go together, and everything from the color of the field sections (purple) to the new solid copper brush interconnects that will replace the wimpy stranded wire interconnects was discussed. After the armatures, center bearing, and fan are pressed onto the shaft, it will then be high speed balanced. When the armature assembly is ready, the motor gets fully assembled and hand timed so that both motor sections if run independently, give the exact same rpm with the same voltage and current applied. After the fine tuning of timing is completed, the end bells will be secured to keep things perfect. The completed Siamese 8 motor fed from a 336V supply, should give White Zombie even more muscle, perhaps as high as 300 hp. The new hotrod twin armature Siamese 8 will be about 6 inches shorter than were the two separate 8 inch motors mounted in their dual motor aluminum mount, and will now clear the car's front frame rail, allowing us to mount the motor lower and parallel with the road surface as is the rear end's input flange. A custom aluminum drive line with turbo 400 sized Spicer universals will transfer power to the back end. If all goes according to plan, White Zombie will be race ready by the end of the month. Minus all drive train vibration, with a pack of powerful Hawkers at 336V nominal, a new SCR based Afterburner (for both turn-on and turn-off), and weighing less than 2300 lbs., it should be a very fun ride! The goal is mid to low 12s at something around 110 mph. The monster 13" motor for Purple Phaze is coming along nicely, and now has its variable timing brush rigging installed. There is approximately 22 degrees of timing each side of neutral available. The H100 brush material used in the Zombie's motors has proved near ideal for the stuff I've been doing, so Jim ordered and received bigger versions for the 13 incher. The steel com of this motor is in terrific shape, as is everything else. Jim worked over the field coils a bit and rebaked them. Friday will be a crazed EVer's day, with MadMan Rudman, Father Time, the new kid Tim Brehm (gotta get him a suitable nickname), and yours truly heading off from Portland back over the mountain to Redmond together. Father Time will bring the new aluminum drive end bells for his and my 13 inch motors he created. Madman will be checking out Jim's motor shop and giving input on the variable brush timing setup, and Tim will be subjected to it all. We're all piling into the Jeep Grand Cherokee, trailer in tow, so we can haul back the minitruck and its new power plant. When it's back in town, Tim and I will begin creating the design of battery placement and motor-driveline' rear end setup. I'm also looking for a bodyshop that can transform the near four decades old truck into a glossy purple track rocket, hopefully, sponsoring a lot of the cost in return for receiving highly visible advertising as the electric minitruck blows off high powered gas cars :-) The Exide batteries are already in my shop, and Marko Mongillo is ready to make battery trays for the 29 Orbitals. The Dutchman and I are also scheming another Ford nine inch setup for the truck. With the massive torque this motor will make, and with 560 hp of battery power on tap, it will 'need' Dutchman axles! Oat says the new Z2K Zilla slated for this truck, will be ready near the end of the month. To add to all the stuff on my plate, Tim and I will be taking Blue Meanie to a custom street rod show on Saturday, so we've got to get the Z1K installed, the four new subs mounted, and the stereo system back on line. Lots to do, but when your having this much EV fun, it's all worth it. See Ya......John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland Plasma Boy Racing 'We blow stuff up, so you don't have to'
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--- Begin Message ---At 09:47 PM 5/10/2005, you wrote:
Tom Koehler wrote:
> I've looked for reference to a list of FAQ's for this group, but so far > have failed to find such a reference. Is there such a list?
Yes, the EV FAQ is at:
http://www.evparts.com/faq/
I don't think it has been updated too much lately.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey, '88 Civic EV '95 Solectria Force Kansas City, Missouri EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
Wasting imported oil is not an act of patriotism, conserving it is.
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--- Begin Message ---On 10 May 2005 at 20:02, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > There use to > be a specific file repository for the ev list somewhere, but I don't see > any link on evdl.org > At one time - many years ago - the EVDL had access to an ftp server at ftp7.ba.best.com. We used to have quite a few files there, though it's been so long I don't recall what they were. It's been inaccessable for quite some time. I have an anonymous ftp server available on evdl.org. Other than limited disk space, can anybody think of a reason I shouldn't open it up to evdl use? David Roden
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--- Begin Message ---> democracy ... police state ... Please, folks, you know the routine: NO POLITICAL COMMENTS on the EV list. They don't change anybody's mind. All they do is cause flames and noise that (1) drowns out rational discussion of EVs and (2) drives away people who just want to MAKE EVs. Please DO NOT post a response to the comment referred to above. Thanks. David Roden Assistant EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---On 10 May 2005 at 12:34, mike golub wrote: > Is there any cruise control on EV's? I don't know whether their current products do, but the older (AMC range, from at least AMC-300) Brusa inverters for AC induction motors had "tempomat" (cruise) circuits built in. They required only the addition of two momentary switches to make the cruise work.
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--- Begin Message ---Joe Smalley wrote: >> I would say the ripple VOLTAGE is the important factor to >> life of an AGM. As long as the terminal voltage stays under >> the gassing voltage, no permanent damage is done. >> >> I agree that the ripple CURRENT causes unnecessary heating of >> the battery. Sometimes you want the heat. >> >> PFC chargers have a lot of CURRENT ripple at full load and >> almost none at light loads near end of charge when it becomes >> important. Roger Stockton wrote: > Right. For instance, Exide says the following for their Orbitals: > "AC Ripple Charge Limitations: Some DC chargers will have what > is referred to as an AC ripple wave-form to the charging input. > Excessive ripple can cause battery heating and gassing resulting > in reduced life. Ripple current excursions during the float > charging phase should not exceed 1 Amp for every 100 AH of > nominal capacity (approx 0.75 amps for most Orbital sizes). > Ripple voltage excursions during float should not exceed +/-5% > of the float voltage." > > Hawker, on the other hand, wants less than +/-2% peak-to-peak > variation of the charge voltage. Agreed. The important point is that the typical transformer-rectifier charger with no filter capacitor at all will meet these requirements. However, a switching-type supply can exceed these levels. So, an output filter capacitor is needed with them. But even in this case, most switching supply topologies require a large output filter capacitor anyway. The minimum value of this output capacitor is many times larger than that needed for the battery. One other kind of charger can be troublesome; this is the kind that does not taper, but instead always operates at full power, or zero power. They are typically a very simple transformer-rectifier charger but with an SCR and voltage-sensing circuit to turn it on/off. For example, it runs at full power until the battery reaches 13.8v, then is totally off until it falls to 13.5v, then full on to 13.8v etc. This type of charger can easily exceed the ripple voltage and current specs for AGMs. -- Ring the bells that you can ring Forget your perfect offering There is a crack in everything That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem" -- Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- Begin Message --- That message from Roderick was supposed to be a back channel communication. It was not intentionally posted to the list and was not meant to inflame anyone. Please ignore it.
-Ken Trough Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine http://visforvoltage.com AIM - ktrough FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
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0.9 V * 100 Amps = 90 W 90 W / 0.065 kg = 1.4 kW/kg (!)
Not too bad, but much less than TMF technology (Inspira, Bolder). How is the self discharge? Shelf life? Cycle life?
_ /| Bill "Wisenheimer" Dube' \'o.O' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> =(___)= U Check out the bike -> http://www.KillaCycle.com
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--- Begin Message ---A fuse is necessary between the variac and the bridge in case the bridge shorts out ONE diode. If the variac is set to a very low setting (like 12 volts) it can put massive current into the bridge and burn out the lower several windings in the variac before anyone notices. If a second diode in the bridge shorts, it can open the output breaker indicating a problem. It all depends on which pair of diodes short out. In this case, the fuse should be about 150% of the variac continuous current rating. Joe Smalley Rural Kitsap County WA Fiesta 48 volts NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder [EMAIL PROTECTED] ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 1:16 PM Subject: Re: Charger schematic > Dave Cover wrote: > > Well, I finally found the schematic for the Home Made Charger I > > mentioned a week or so ago. I've uploaded it to the files section > > of the EV group. At least I hope I did. If it's not there let me > > know and I'll try again. > > You didn't mention where you uploaded it. There are lots of "EV groups" > -- address please? > > > I moved the 120 volt, 5 amp fuse to between the variac and the bridge. > > This will work; but you basically have your bases covered by having 2 > fuses/circuit breakers; one on the AC input, and one on the DC output. > You don't need a third one between the variac and bridge. > > Make sure the one on the DC output is DC rated for the voltage it will > actually see! > > Everything else sounds correct! > -- > If you would not be forgotten > When your body's dead and rotten > Then write of great deeds worth the reading > Or do the great deeds worth repeating > -- Ben Franklin, Poor Richard's Almanac > -- > Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net >
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