EV Digest 4507
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) A few NiMH's on eBay
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
2) RE: A few NiMH's on eBay
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Singer project car. Looks very light.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Interstate U1450
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Fw: Interstate U1450 vs. Trojan 5SHP.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Seeking Used 132V Charger
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Battery fill system
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Battery fill system
by "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Air conditioner etc
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Battery fill system
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Battery fill system
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Solar cell energy balance
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) more water systems
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Van (possible NEV?) on eBay
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
15) RE: A few NiMH's on eBay
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
16) Re: Conversion Van
by "Randy Bush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Conversion Van
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Battery fill system
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: OT watch the acronyms!
by "Joe Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Cheap Batteries?(This is in Florida)Better than Optima?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Cheap Batteries?(This is in Florida)Better than Optima?
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Some new motor and controller products with prices
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Some new ... products
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
24) Looking for sub 3k electric utility vehicle.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Smart Charger
by "Sharon Hoopes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Cheap Batteries?(This is in Florida)Better than Optima?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
27) Re: Conversion Van
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
28) Rav4 EV for sale in San Jose
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) 4 wheeler front end and swing axle idea.
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) WANTED: '02 (or newer) GEM Longbed Utility - San Francisco Bay Area
by "J Mac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: DC/DC
by Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: Conversion Van
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
33) RE: Dymaxion for hybrid RV , Aero, ground effect and Van conversion
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
34) Re: DC/DC
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
35) Re: DC/DC
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
36) 65 hp almost 215 mph
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
37) Re: Conversion Van
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Anyone need a 65V/85Ah pack of NiMHs?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4562636349
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wow these look perfect for someone's motorcycle project. I wonder how much
they weigh, and how big of current you can pull from them. I already spent
my battery money on Nicads, so I won't be buying them, but I'd love to have
85ahrs on tap instead of the 40 I now have.
damon
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: EV Discussion List <[email protected]>
Subject: A few NiMH's on eBay
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 15:50:56 -0700
Anyone need a 65V/85Ah pack of NiMHs?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4562636349
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes I guess that's why GM and other big auto makers don't want to make
electrics. They think of them as washing machines. In my family we had a
tredel sewing machine which I think is still in use. Put downs by teenage
boys doesn't bother me a bit. Dependability is more important to me. We
should compliment dependability and durability. Feminizing & derision is
for stupid male egos. LR......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Watson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: Singer project car. Looks very light.
Dear Lawrence
But with a name like Singer, you would run the risk of
having people insulting your car by saying it sounds
like a sewing machine...
http://www.singerco.com/products/
that used to be the ultimate putdown for motor bikes
around here!
1st,2nd,3rd
zzzzzzzt,...zzzzzzzt,...zzzzzzt
Tom
------snip------
Subject: Singer project car. Looks very light.
This car would make a great EV. LR.........In Oakland
CA
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4561012932&category=6314&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm working on a converted Mayflower(small British car that looks like a
Bently) It weighs around 2000 pounds unconverted. The Interstate batteries
didn't work out that well. They are being taken out now. I do suspect
undercharging. The rear batteries were bulging from sulfation. What would
be a good Trojan replacement or are the Interstate good batteries. I
haven't heard they were. However at 1000 pounds in weight they are a good
size to get 120v in a small car with a savings of 400 pounds. I need a
Trojan with the same footprint and amphour and haven't found it yet.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
5SHP 275 - 78 400 490 135 165 12 AP 13 5/8 (346) 6 3/4 (171) 11 3/8
(289) 86 (39)
5Shp Three more amp hour. Not as tall and one pound less weight. How do
these batteries hold up in EV use? LR.....
I'm working on a converted Mayflower(small British car that looks like a
Bently) It weighs around 2000 pounds unconverted. The Interstate
batteries didn't work out that well. They are being taken out now. I do
suspect undercharging. The rear batteries were bulging from sulfation.
What would be a good Trojan replacement or are the Interstate good
batteries. I haven't heard they were. However at 1000 pounds in weight
they are a good size to get 120v in a small car with a savings of 400
pounds. I need a Trojan with the same footprint and amphour and haven't
found it yet.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is for someone not on the list. Please respond directly to Bill
Hoopes at [EMAIL PROTECTED] He has a 914 Porsche with 22 flooded 6V
batteries. He didn't specify 110V or 220V input. He wants a "smart"
charger to automatically taper and shut-off, but he is looking for a used
unit, not new.
Mike Brown
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Found a battery filling system
http://batteryfillingsystems.com/
I'm writing them to see how much a system for 30 trojan t-125's would cost.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
These look similar to the Rover & Rover caps, made in Germany:
http://www.aquapro.net/
Here's a link to an EV that uses it:
http://www.canev.com/Conversions/Echo/Echo.html
Missing from Battery Filling System's selection are the really cool
connectors that the Aquapro system offers, which enable you to just plug
in and see visibly when the water flow shuts off.
Let us know what the prices end up being. I think I recall from when I
wrote to them a few months back, in large quantities the Aquapro caps end
up being about USD $10-$12 apiece.
--chris
Rush said:
> Found a battery filling system
> http://batteryfillingsystems.com/
>
> I'm writing them to see how much a system for 30 trojan t-125's would
> cost.
>
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Christopher Robison wrote:
> It's a typical permanent magnet DC treadmill motor, just wound for a
> higher voltage than the usual 90-130VDC:
If it's built for 260vdc, it will be just fine at 348vdc. You can run it
straight off the pack voltage. It will run proportionately faster, but
draw proportionately less current for the same horsepower.
Your main problem will be getting the motor started. You can't just
switch it straight across the pack, or you'd get a horrendous starting
current and a violent lurch as it tries to come up to speed instantly.
I'd use a simple 2-step starter. Start it with a resistor in series that
limits the current to 10-20 amps. After a second or two the motor should
be almost up to speed; so then close a second contactor that shorts the
resistor for full power running.
--
*BE* the change that you wish to see in the world.
-- Mahatma Gandhi
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I got the site from the new issue of HomePower. The story is Power Tower, they
were used on a battery bank consisting of 16 6V Interstate batteries and cost
$775, so 775 / (16*3) = about $16 per cap retail. Maybe cheaper direct...
By the way there is also a good article by Shari Prange about the Pirus +
HomePower is a great Mag that really promotes all aspects of Renewable Energy
and gives lots of very good how to do it articles. It would be great if
somebody would do the same for EV's.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: Battery fill system
> These look similar to the Rover & Rover caps, made in Germany:
>
> http://www.aquapro.net/
>
> Here's a link to an EV that uses it:
>
> http://www.canev.com/Conversions/Echo/Echo.html
>
> Missing from Battery Filling System's selection are the really cool
> connectors that the Aquapro system offers, which enable you to just plug
> in and see visibly when the water flow shuts off.
>
> Let us know what the prices end up being. I think I recall from when I
> wrote to them a few months back, in large quantities the Aquapro caps end
> up being about USD $10-$12 apiece.
>
> --chris
>
>
>
>
> Rush said:
>> Found a battery filling system
>> http://batteryfillingsystems.com/
>>
>> I'm writing them to see how much a system for 30 trojan t-125's would
>> cost.
>>
>> Rush
>> Tucson AZ
>> www.ironandwood.org
>>
>>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Woops meant to put in -
look on p 11 and you'll see a flow indicator. I guess when it stops turning it
means that the flow is stopped and the batteries are full.
> Missing from Battery Filling System's selection are the really cool
> connectors that the Aquapro system offers, which enable you to just plug
> in and see visibly when the water flow shuts off.
Rush
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seppo Lindborg wrote:
> One friend of mine, a physicist, once commented on solar cells:
> 'When manufacturing a solar cell, one uses more energy than that
> cell is ever going to produce during its life-time.' He was working
> on that field, so very likely the comment was true, but this
> discussion was more than ten years ago.
>
> Solar cells have developed thereafter a lot. Does anyone have exact
> knowledge what is the energy balance of a modern solar cell in this
> context?
Seppo,
The energy balance question is a matter of telling lies with statistics.
This argument is used to confuse and mislead people.
When they are building a small number of solar cells in a lab, then the
time, materials, and energy that goes into them is greater than the
energy they produce over their life. That doesn't matter; such cells are
being built for research and development purposes, not power production.
Such cells are very expensive. They get used for satellites, emergency
power in remote locations, experimental uses like solar race cars, and
other cost-is-no-object applications.
When they mass-produce solar cells for power production, they are much
more careful with the time, materials, and energy it takes to make them.
They will give up 2:1 on efficiency to get a 10:1 cost reduction. This
is why most of the mass-produced cells are amorphous or polycrystalline
types -- they are less efficient, but far cheaper. You *do* come out
ahead with them -- they will produce much more energy over their life
than it took to make them.
Plus, there are lots of complications that make any simple energy
balances difficult. For example, Solarex buys defective wafers from the
semiconductor industry, that would have been used for integrated
circuits but had some defect. They polish off the old IC patterns, and
make solar cells out of them. So they are recycling something that would
have otherwise been useless scrap.
--
*BE* the change that you wish to see in the world.
-- Mahatma Gandhi
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, pickle me in juice...
I just finished HomePower and just a few pages after the Power Tower article is
one by Ian Woofenden (part of the HP staff) about Flow-Rite Pro-Fill battery
filling system.
He says it is good except for no hydrometer access. Cost is $140 for 12 cells,
or $11.66 per cell. So for a 6 V trojan it would add 35 per battery. Or $1050
for my 30 batteries, pretty expensive....
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is there any legal reason an electric delivery van with a 20mph top speed
couldn't be licensed as an NEV? Might want to "tinker it up" to 25-28mph,
though.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&&item=4562657238
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Wow these look perfect for someone's motorcycle project. I wonder how much
> they weigh, and how big of current you can pull from them. I already spent
> my battery money on Nicads, so I won't be buying them, but I'd love to have
> 85ahrs on tap instead of the 40 I now have.
>
> damon
>
Here's the dimension description on these items:
"They are 13.2 Volt Nickel Metel Hydride 85 Amp Hour batteries measuring 16
inches long by 4 inches wide by 7 inches high. I was told they will require
temprature sensing and thermal management for full charging capabilities. If
you do not understand CC/CV and Float these batteries are not for you. :) They
weigh in at approx 43 lbs each and you must arrange and pay for shipping."
A 215# pack, 16"x20"x7", 66V/85Ah - yeah, that would make a sweet MC project!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Its a1989 Ford E150 so it might be a classic. Tried getting a kit once but
it was around $15K and i couldnt justify the cost. Need something that wil
go 45mph top speed with a 80 mile range if possible.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: Conversion Van
> <<< Has anyone converted a Ford E150 van?
> Randy >>>
>
> Someone was talking about a classic van conversion on the list a few
months ago,
> but no updates since then. Is yours a new van or a really old one (i.e. -
a
> "classic")? One thing about the old ones is the much lower empty weight.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Liked the Aerostar conversion on your website. Our van us used for
deleveries so most of the cargo is needed.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: Conversion Van
> Randy Bush wrote:
>
> > Has anyone converted a Ford E150 van?
>
> I've never seen one converted. Though it would make for an easy
> conversion since there is plenty of space for the batteries. Not to
> mention, a real frame to work with vs's unibody construction...
>
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/ford.html
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 1:16 AM
Subject: Re: Battery fill system
> I got the site from the new issue of HomePower. The story is Power Tower,
they were used on a battery bank consisting of 16 6V Interstate batteries
and cost $775, so 775 / (16*3) = about $16 per cap retail. Maybe cheaper
direct...
>
> By the way there is also a good article by Shari Prange about the Pirus +
>
> HomePower is a great Mag that really promotes all aspects of Renewable
Energy and gives lots of very good how to do it articles. It would be great
if somebody would do the same for EV's.
> Hi Rush an' All;
HP has a lotta good stuff, they EVen try to get into EV stuff, although
they may be a bit dated. But we can fix that! An attempt was made a few
years ago with "Electric Car" magazine. Remember that, you older timers? I
thought they did a good job, articles, including stuff on John Wayland's
Racing. I subscribed, still waiting for volume two, sigh! It died after one
nice slick issue, it would go better on a news-stand, somebody casually
looking for a read, on a long train or plain flight. With tons of mags on a
newsstand, I think there could be room, along with Soap opera News,
Wrestling, People, Slime, I mean TIME !And a plethura of stuff that I
wouldn't take if they handed it to me if I were walking by.Gees! Look at all
the VW stuff ya can get!
Maybe as EV's become more mainstream? Somebody could, would publish a
national mag. The List could be a great resourse.The Good Folks at Home
Power could start an EV mag, they have the distribution system in place, for
HP already.
Just some random early morning thoughts.
Seeya
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I agree with your post, Bob; but don't use the "HP" acronym for HomePower
mag. HP is Hewlett-Packard's designation, and just confuses people. Like
using the acronym "EAA" for Electric Automobile Association - EAA stands for
Experimental Aircraft Association, and has for more years than the Electric
Automobile Association has been around!
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: Battery fill system
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 1:16 AM
> Subject: Re: Battery fill system
>
>
> > I got the site from the new issue of HomePower. The story is Power
Tower,
> they were used on a battery bank consisting of 16 6V Interstate batteries
> and cost $775, so 775 / (16*3) = about $16 per cap retail. Maybe cheaper
> direct...
> >
> > By the way there is also a good article by Shari Prange about the Pirus
+
> >
> > HomePower is a great Mag that really promotes all aspects of Renewable
> Energy and gives lots of very good how to do it articles. It would be
great
> if somebody would do the same for EV's.
> > Hi Rush an' All;
>
> HP has a lotta good stuff, they EVen try to get into EV stuff, although
> they may be a bit dated. But we can fix that! An attempt was made a few
> years ago with "Electric Car" magazine. Remember that, you older timers? I
> thought they did a good job, articles, including stuff on John Wayland's
> Racing. I subscribed, still waiting for volume two, sigh! It died after
one
> nice slick issue, it would go better on a news-stand, somebody casually
> looking for a read, on a long train or plain flight. With tons of mags on
a
> newsstand, I think there could be room, along with Soap opera News,
> Wrestling, People, Slime, I mean TIME !And a plethura of stuff that I
> wouldn't take if they handed it to me if I were walking by.Gees! Look at
all
> the VW stuff ya can get!
>
> Maybe as EV's become more mainstream? Somebody could, would publish a
> national mag. The List could be a great resourse.The Good Folks at Home
> Power could start an EV mag, they have the distribution system in place,
for
> HP already.
>
> Just some random early morning thoughts.
>
> Seeya
>
> Bob
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cheap Battery?
Maybe these are worth considering ??
http://tinyurl.com/bcvcq
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Lawrence and All,
Looking at their specs they seem to be similar
to Concorde, Dynasty so not that good for most EV amp
draws. Maybe for an AC drive.
At 73lbs I'd hope they would have more cap
than YT's ;-)
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> From: "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Cheap Battery?
>
> Maybe these are worth considering ??
> http://tinyurl.com/bcvcq
>
> Lawrence Rhodes
> Bassoon/Contrabassoon
> Reedmaker
> Book 4/5 doubler
> Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 415-821-3519
>
>
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I contacted http://www.motorfactories.com/ about their products. They
said they are now selling the components of their vehicles.
Here are the parts for this vehicle:
http://www.motorfactories.com/ec003.html
Motor:
Nominal Output Power (KW): 15
Nominal Speed (RPM): 4000
Max Speed (RPM): 6000
Max Torque: 150NM
Price: FOB USD $1,330
Controller:
Nominal Output Power (KW): 30
Nominal Capacity (KVA): 50
Nominal Current (An): 120
Output Voltage (VAC): 220
Price: FOB USD $6,375
Batteries (Lead):
Nominal Capacity (AH): 75
Nominal Voltage (V): 12
Total Voltage (V): 312 (26 PCS of Batteries)
Range (KM): 150
Price: FOB USD $2,158
Meters and Equipment:
Voltage Meter, Current Meter, Load Meter, Potentiometers, Relay etc..
Price: FOB USD $1,186
Optional:
Lithium Batteries:
Nominal Capacity (AH): 90
Nominal Voltage (V): 3.6
Total Voltage (V): 309 (86 PCS of Batteries)
Range (KM): 400
Price: FOB USD $25,197
And here are the parts for this vehicle:
http://www.motorfactories.com/ec002.html
Motor:
Nominal Output Power (KW): 32
Nominal Speed (RPM): 4000
Max Speed (RPM): 6000
Max Torque: 180NM
Price: FOB USD $1,950
Controller:
Nominal Output Power (KW): 42
Nominal Capacity (KVA): 50
Nominal Current (An): 120
Output Voltage (VAC): 220
Price: FOB USD $7,525
Batteries (Lead):
Nominal Capacity (AH): 75
Nominal Voltage (V): 12
Total Voltage (V): 312 (32 PCS of Batteries)
Range (KM): 220
Price: FOB USD $2,656
Meters and Equipment:
Voltage Meter, Current Meter, Load Meter, Potentiometers, Relay etc..
Price: FOB USD $1,495
Optional:
Lithium Batteries:
Nominal Capacity (AH): 90
Nominal Voltage (V): 3.6
Total Voltage (V): 309 (86 PCS of Batteries)
Range (KM): 450
Price: FOB USD $28,130
Contact: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<<<I contacted http://www.motorfactories.com/ about their products. They
said they are now selling the components of their vehicles.
Here are the parts for this vehicle:
http://www.motorfactories.com/ec003.html>>>
I suppose it has to be safer than the Honda 600 it so closely resembles!
<<<Controller:
Nominal Output Power (KW): 30
Nominal Capacity (KVA): 50
Nominal Current (An): 120
Output Voltage (VAC): 220
Price: FOB USD $6,375>>>
Makes Victor's models look very competitive...and not to be a snob, but I'd
trust his suppliers' quality control more.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Any NEV considered, Golfcart, very small car etc. Must be under 3k in
price. Must be street legal or setup to do so. Three wheel golfcart ok.
This is for a friend. Must climb hills. Must be in the San Francisco Bay
area.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Looking for:
132 volt
30 amp output
240 input AC
Smart Charger
Bill & Sharon Hoopes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<<<Hi Lawrence and All,
Looking at their specs they seem to be similar
to Concorde, Dynasty so not that good for most EV amp
draws. Maybe for an AC drive.
At 73lbs I'd hope they would have more cap
than YT's ;-)
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus>>>
Maybe not for drag racing, but the specs at
http://www.universalpowergroup.com/specs/D5751.pdf look promising:
IR of ~4 mOhms (Orbitals =~3mOhms)
CCA of 720A
Peukert's exponent using C/5=18A and 1C=80A gives 1.08 (using C/20=5.5A and RC
of 256min gives an unrealistic 1.02!)
Cycle life >1000
Plate alloy similar to Hawkers (lead-calcium-tin)
Maybe it's all just battery company hype, but on the surface, it looks good
enough to survive Z1K use, just not Z2K like an Orbital single-string will.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<<<Its a1989 Ford E150 so it might be a classic. Tried getting a kit once but
it was around $15K and i couldnt justify the cost. Need something that wil
go 45mph top speed with a 80 mile range if possible.
Randy>>>
I think we were using the term "classic" for a van from the '60's! 80 miles with
a van may not be "impossible", but you're looking at a pretty hefty battery
pack, even at 45mph (unless you meant 80mi at much less than that). Is it a
day-dream or something more concrete, like "I have money, I'm ready to do it"?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.craigslist.org/sby/car/84543571.html
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was in a few shops today looking around for ideas.
The first thing that I noticed was under a new Cadillac, the rear swing arm
pivot mounts.
They were made out of very thin steel. No more than .090. I could not
believe that it was so weak looking.
The next shop was a motorcycle and 4 wheeler store.
The front end from one might be OK for a lightweight EV.
I looked at one model that had the engine drive sprocket mounted at the
swing arm pivot.
This gave me an idea. What if the swing arm pivot was large enough to allow
a driveshaft to pass through it?
You could have a motor on one side and an ICE on the other side.
What could be used as a clutch or freewheel in this setup?
This is for a 2F1R,
BoyntonStu
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Any leads or contacts greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Mac
_________________________________________________________________
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
Lee Hart wrote:
Your present ICE's 12-volt system is weak; its voltage wanders all over
the place depending on load and engine speed.
Maybe our definitions of "weak" are different. When I talk about weak, I
was referring to the ability of the DC/DC converter to keep the system
voltage at a reasonable voltage (say 14.4 volts), at which the lights
won't appear dim and the motors will run strong.
My Jeep Wrangler's (my only ICE-ed vehicle) 12-volt system stays at a
good voltage around 14.5 volts regardless of if I have no accessories or
all the accessories turned on. My Cherokee's 12-volt system, on the
other hand, is 14 volts only when the load is very very light. For
example, if I turn the headlights on and the blower motor to full, the
voltage drops down to 13.2 volts. If the P/S pump is running, it gets
even worse. While you may not see this as being bad, I do because I
notice all the lights are now dimmer and the motors don't seem to be
working as well...
I agree with you that the voltage jumps around quite a bit in both
vehicles' 12-volt systems. The difference is one is hovering around 14.5
volts (my ICE) while the other is usually hovering below 13.5 (my EV).
Thus my Cherokee's 12-volt battery never gets fully charged while
driving, and I have to periodically charge it with an off-board charger
to keep the voltage sag from getting worse and to ensure the battery
isn't killed.
With that said, I DO realize that all of this is a fault of having a
((synonym for not-so-great)) DC/DC converter and to make matters worse a
DC/DC converter that is not sized properly for the average 12-volt load
in my EV.
However, with that known, the point here that I was trying to make in my
last post regarding this issue is that having a DC/DC that is not on all
the time makes the situation _even_worse_ as now the battery cannot
charge during the times that the vehicle is not in use, and thus is
prone to being perpetually undercharged.
> And he's right; you can choose to make your EV better than an ICE. But
this is a "want", not a "need". You're fixing a "problem" that most
people do not recognize as one.
I disagree. It surely is a problem if you are killing off your 12-volt
battery because it is never getting a full charge.... and yes, I already
killed one 12-volt battery in my Cherokee this way...and while the
solution seems obvious (get a higher power, better built DC/DC) that is
hard to do when so few products exist that fit this description and work
in your voltage range...
--
-Nick
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
---------------------------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well the money is there and think it would be lots of fun to do but only if
its a significant cost savings over gasoline power.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: Conversion Van
> <<<Its a1989 Ford E150 so it might be a classic. Tried getting a kit once
but
> it was around $15K and i couldnt justify the cost. Need something that wil
> go 45mph top speed with a 80 mile range if possible.
> Randy>>>
>
> I think we were using the term "classic" for a van from the '60's! 80
miles with
> a van may not be "impossible", but you're looking at a pretty hefty
battery
> pack, even at 45mph (unless you meant 80mi at much less than that). Is it
a
> day-dream or something more concrete, like "I have money, I'm ready to do
it"?
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Don, Michael and All,
--- Michael Hurley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> At 8:03 AM -0700 on 7/14/05, Don Cameron wrote:
>
> >The teardrop shape is not necessarily the best
> aerodynamic shape for an
A heck of a lot better than what's on the road
now. A practical boxy teardrop shape with the rear cut
off not too far behind the max beam will have around a
.15 CD, about 1/3 of current car CD average. That at
70mph means 2x the range!!
And that's why I would like to do an RV like that
using a Geo Metro 3cyl with EV drive hybrid. If done
right a RV for 2-4, 7'wide x 16/18'long could get
about 40mpg+ when on gas and have a 50 mile range on
batts. Even better with a VW diesel on used Veg oil!!
The boxing up of the shape along with cutting
it's length will make it's crosswind problems the same
as any van the same size.
I've always wondered how a Dustbuster style GM
vans would make as an EV as they are fairly aero and
with a few small mods be really aero. If I was doing a
van conversion, I'd check them out. They are going
really cheap now too as they are over 10 yrs old.
They use the same type plastic body panels as the
Saturn so most still look good and have fairly low
weights.
> >automobile. You must take into consideration ground
> effects. You may want
As someone who has designed WIGs, Ground Effect
boats, and checked out many car ground effect, other
drag studies over the yrs, I always take that into
account.
But wheelwells, rear shape, parasitic drag are
much more important than ground effect in drag
amounts. Generally, ground effect reduction rarely
gets more than 5% and you start having clearance,
maintaince, repair problems if you really go for G.E.
drag reduction.
On my future EV, it will have the ability to
raise/lower itself 6" for lower ground effect drag on
the highway at speed and overall aero drag reduction.
Then using higher clearance around town cuts body
damage air dams, ect would suffer.
> >to pick up a couple of newer books on vehicle
> aerodynamics if you really
> >want to make it aerodynamic.
There has been little written on auto aerodynamics
which is too bad.
But have studied many other aerodynamics,
especially airplanes, sailboats plus anything I can
get my hands on on car, truck aero. Any new sources
welcomed.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
>
> Also, side-wind aerodynamics, and multi-direction
> gusts.
> --
>
>
> Auf wiedersehen!
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Do you do much night driving? What watt headlights do you currently
have? Have you considered installing maybe 60 watt or 40 watt lights?
Maybe some LED headlights for "city driving" and be able to switch
from those to the drainers if more light is needed..
What gauge wire do you have the MR2 pump hooked up with? Or would
that not make any difference what so ever as to how much it draws?
Have you thought about putting it on a switch and turning it off when
you are going straight(down the highway, long straight road, etc.)?
Can your DC/DC be modified to put out a little more?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nick Viera wrote:
> My Jeep Wrangler's (my only ICE-ed vehicle) 12-volt system stays at
> a good voltage around 14.5 volts regardless of if I have no accessories
> or all the accessories turned on.
14.5v at the battery? That's actually a bit too high, and will shorten battery
life. Or 14.5v somewhere else in the system. In most cars, there is a
significant voltage drop between the alternator and the battery.
> My Cherokee's 12-volt system, on the other hand, is 14 volts only when
> the load is very very light. For example, if I turn the headlights on and
> the blower motor to full, the voltage drops down to 13.2 volts. If the
> P/S pump is running, it gets even worse.
Again, is this 14v to 13.2v change measured at the battery, or somewhere else?
It will help us to figure out where the problem is. Is the DC/DC converter's
current capability too small? Or is it set for too low a voltage? Or is its
voltage regulation poor, so it varies too much under load? Are the excess
voltage drops in the wiring?
> While you may not see this as being bad, I do because I notice all
> the lights are now dimmer and the motors don't seem to be
> working as well...
If your DC/DC can maintain about 13.2-14.2v depending on load, it is about as
good as the alternator setup in most cars.
Is your Jeep's electric power steering pump something you added? If so, it
could represent a substantial new 12v load that hasn't been accounted for in
the stock 12v wiring, or in your sizing of the DC/DC converter.
> the point here that I was trying to make in my last post...
> is that having a DC/DC that is not on all the time makes the
> situation _even_worse_ as now the battery cannot charge
> during the times that the vehicle is not in use, and thus is
> prone to being perpetually undercharged.
I agree. If your DC/DC can't keep up with normal 12v loads, then it *has* to be
left on when parked, or your 12v battery will never get fully charged. The only
other option would be a separate 12v charger that *does* fully charge the
accessory battery while you are charging the rest of the propulsion pack.
>> you can choose to make your EV better than an ICE. But this
>> is a "want", not a "need". You're fixing a "problem" that most
>> people do not recognize as one.
> I disagree. It surely is a problem if you are killing off your 12-volt
> battery because it is never getting a full charge...
All I meant was that if a 12v alternator was "good enough" for the vehicle as
an ICE, then keeping that alternator and running it from your traction motor is
also going to be a "good enough" solution.
If you replace a 60amp alternator with a 60amp DC/DC, you are likely to have a
*better* system (i.e. more stable voltage). Just as you don't need to run the
alternator when parked, you don't need to run the DC/DC when parked, because it
has enough current to run all your accessory loads *and* fully charge the
battery.
If you replace a 60amp alternator with an undersized 30amp DC/DC, then yes; you
will have a weaker system with more voltage sag. If you run this DC/DC only
while driving, the 12v battery isn't going to get fully charged, and will fail
sooner. So, with such a system, you need to run the DC/DC or a separate 12v
charger when parked.
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.ar-5.com/kitcarm93.html
Here's one for you Jerry.
BoyntonStu
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Randy wrote:
> Well the money is there and think it would be lots of fun to do but only if
> its a significant cost savings over gasoline power.
No more gasoline purchases.. If fuel goes up to $3 or $4 a gallon, or
there is an out right shortage.. you'll be out driving while everyone
else is walking, riding a bike, or waiting on the bus...
You want all the batteries under the rear cargo floor? Do you also
want access hatches to get to them from above, or just mount them from
below?
Check out this long range EV:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/037.html
Take a look at these various controllers, motors, and chargers:
http://www.evsource.com/top_line_shop.php
Do you want flooded lead acid batteries that you will have to check
their water level and refill when low? Or no maintenance batteries?
This is the lowest cost maintenance free battery I've been able to find so far:
http://www.remybattery.com/350/shopexd.asp?id=5448&catid=342&cat=Deka+INTIMIDATOR&subcat=474&L2=&L3=
Anyone know about how many of those batteries he'd need for 80 mile range?
For now, go with 348 volts worth(29 bats).
Pick out a motor, controller, and charger. How much total?
29 of those bats at $89 each = $2581
Zilla 1k = $2825
PFC20 = $2500
9" WarP= $1465
12v DC/DC= $280 ( http://www.powerstream.com/DC-HV.htm )
Total so far = $9,651
Cable, battery racks, gauges.. some other incidentals..
If you go with batteries that need to be watered, they might cost half
as much. There are other motors, controllers, and chargers available
at lower cost too...
Gonna do it?
--- End Message ---
