EV Digest 4634
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Emeter RS232 - Palm M100 EVDash?
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
by "Joe Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) 1999 Chrysler EPIC minivan purchase. Any resources?
by Eric Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Gear Ratios
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: White Zombie HV connectors
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
by "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
by "Peri Hartman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: New Here
by Tom Watson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: New Here
by Tim Clevenger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any thoughts?
by Tom Watson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Emeter RS232 - Palm M100 EVDash?
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) questions about some of the details
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Parallel charge nicd strings
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) good news?
by "Lightning Ryan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Seattle area EV-savvy mechanics?
by "Lightning Ryan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any thoughts?
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: New Here
by "Dennis Merritt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: New Here
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any thoughts?
by "Tim Medeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: New Here corrected link
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any thoughts?
by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I didn't write the article but first guess is because they have 220 volts
instead of 110 volts?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 2:10 AM
Subject: Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
ark McCurdy wrote:
http://www.medscape.com/viewarticle/410681_3
The lowest frequency for electrical current in the United States is
60 Hertz (Hz) >because this is the lowest frequency at which an
incandescent light functions.
Is that so? I thought they used 50 Hz in Europe? What types of light
are they using..?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hehe, gotta remember that AC is off half the time so the bulb starts to dim
on the off time then brighten on the on cycle, since DC is on all the time,
the bulb would work fine, but I don't think hooking a 110ac light bulb to a
110 dc pack would be a good idea :op
----- Original Message -----
From: "Danny Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 2:24 AM
Subject: Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
Incandescent works perfectly fine on DC. Like check a flashlight.
Danny
Ryan Stotts wrote:
ark McCurdy wrote:
http://www.medscape.com/viewarticle/410681_3
The lowest frequency for electrical current in the United States is
60 Hertz (Hz) >because this is the lowest frequency at which an
incandescent light functions.
Is that so? I thought they used 50 Hz in Europe? What types of light
are they using..?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 09:55 AM 8/27/2005, Mark Hastings wrote:
I selected serial from the EVDash software and tried new and record
and the menu items. That is why I'm wondering if it is a
hardware/cable problem. Or maybe my emeters RS232 port is just a decoration.
I had one working some time ago, but my M100 died, and I haven't
picked up another.
From what I remember, you MAY need a Null-Modem adapter. (It's been
so long, that I'm no longer sure of that though.)
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Most incandescent light bulbs are 120V, so it shouldn't be a problem. If you
are worried about it, get a 130V bulb - they are readily available.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
> Hehe, gotta remember that AC is off half the time so the bulb starts to
dim
> on the off time then brighten on the on cycle, since DC is on all the
time,
> the bulb would work fine, but I don't think hooking a 110ac light bulb to
a
> 110 dc pack would be a good idea :op
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Danny Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 2:24 AM
> Subject: Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
>
>
> > Incandescent works perfectly fine on DC. Like check a flashlight.
> >
> > Danny
> >
> > Ryan Stotts wrote:
> >
> >>ark McCurdy wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>http://www.medscape.com/viewarticle/410681_3
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>>The lowest frequency for electrical current in the United States is
> >>>
> >>60 Hertz (Hz) >because this is the lowest frequency at which an
> >>incandescent light functions.
> >>
> >>Is that so? I thought they used 50 Hz in Europe? What types of light
> >>are they using..?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have been contacted regarding a 1999 Chrysler EPIC
electric minivan that is for sale.
It also includes the specialized Lockheed-Martin
charger for it (no pedestal).
The previous owner could not get it running. They
seem to think the problem is with the motherboard.
(They had access to another motherboard, but still
could not get it running.)
I have read as much as I could online about the EPIC
and understand that this is basically an orphan
vehicle, since they were never meant for the public.
Im not sure it is worth buying due to the lack of
support.
Is there anyone else on this list who privately owns
one?
Is there anyone on this list with some experience with
these that can be a resource for trying to get this
back in running condition?
Reply to the list or privately via email.
Thanks!
Eric
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Chris,
You have a 3.70 rear gear and when a engine, the top speed at 6000 RPM will be:
RPM x Tire Circumference in inches
MPH = -----------------------------------------
Gear Ratio x 1056
6000 x 85
MPH = ------------------ = 130
3.70 x 1056
Normally you will not be going 130 mph with a electric motor unless you plan to
race it.
The maximum speed at 6000 RPM for a 85 inch Circumference tire for a Vette with
a 300 HP engine.
Ratio Mph
3.70 130
3.90 124
4.11 118
4.56 106
4.88 99
5.13 94
5.38 90
5.57 86
With a electric motor, it will depend on how much Amp Hour of the battery you
have, voltage and weight. This is where the Uve's calculator will do a close
estimate.
For example my first EV a 1976 Chevelle which was Name Transformer I had 90
each 300 AH lead-cobalt cells that weigh 3000 lbs. This vehicle had a total
weight of 7850 lbs with a 5.57 rear axle and a 3-speed very heavy duty truck
type transmission with 3.5:1 1st gear and 2.5:1 2nd gear.
This gave a overall ratio in 1st gear at 19.495:1 and the 2nd gear at 13.925:1.
The tires were high pressure poly glass 90 inch diameter. The top speed of this
car when it was running around a GM test track was 92 mph. In first gear, it
had a violent acceleration up to 25 mph which they broke the drive shaft at one
run.
They adjusted the controller to mild acceleration when I took delivery of it.
It will still do 0 to 25 in 10 seconds.
It will be best to bump up your axle gear to either 4.56 to 5.57 with a
transmission 1st gear of 2.64:1 or use a transmission with higher gear ratio so
your overall ratio is at least above 12.5:1 in the Vette for a total weight of
5000 lbs.
The following weight of vehicle as to the gear ratio data is a estimate. Is a
ratio between the numbers
Gear Ratio Weight in pounds
20:1 8000
19:1 7600
18:1 7200
17:1 6800
16:1 6400
15:1 6000
14:1 5600
13:1 5200
12:1 4800
11:1 4400
10:1 4000
9:1 3600
So you see that GM pick a 9.768 ratio for a 3600 lb Vette for standard
performance. The higher number gear ratios will give you longer motor and
battery life and some smoke on the tires if you want.
Roland
Used the Uve's calculator to determine what batteries type you want.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Buresh<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: EV<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 8:29 PM
Subject: Gear Ratios
What is a typical set of gear ratios for a higher performance EV?
My plans currently are:
1977 Corvette
300-348V (Optima/Orbs)
Z1K
Performance similar to stock (210 hp)
Range 30 mi @50 DOD with conservative driving
The information that I can find states the gear ratios from motor to wheel
are (1-4) 9.768, 6.475, 4.958, 3.700. These are dramatically smaller than the
those on Uve's page (including a DeLorean of the same era.)
Should I plan on finding a way to increase the ratios? Uve's page always has
motor RPM as the limit for each gear.
Also, what is the best way to estimate how much weight could be trimmed from
stock before the EV parts are installed? Anyone have an idea for a C3 Corvette?
--
Chris Buresh
St. Paul, MN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Rush wrote:
John,
I was looking thru the Woodburn pics and saw the one that shows what is under
the hood of the White Zombie. What are the connectors that connect the heavy
gauge cables to the motor, Zilla, etc?
I assume you're asking about those gold plated connectors with the
knurled machining? They are from 'StreetWires', a car audio manufacturer
of connectors, wires, terminal blocks, etc. In the high power world of
zany car audio, systems in the multiple kw range use 1/0 power cable and
banks of Optimas or Orbital to supply heavy duty 12V system current.
This is the market these connector are aimed at. They are unique and
very heavy duty. The connector has two pieces...the main body and the
screw-on loop end. The stripped end of the power cable is fed through
the connector body and comes out to other side where you mushroom the
fine strands back over it, then screw on the loop end piece as it
compresses the wire strands. It makes one heck of a firm connection. In
all the years I've used these, not once has there ever been a connector
failure.
They do pose some installation problems due to their thick loop ends.
Also, because of their rigid shape and large diameter size, it's hard to
use more than one at any connection point. The more common crimp-on type
connectors like those from 'Quick Cable' give more flexibility in the
way they are thinner and can be bent and shaped just so.
See Ya.......John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
http://www.plasmaboyracing.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hooking a 110 VAC bulb to 110 VDC will draw the same power ( and the bulb
will reach the same temperature) as at 110 VAC.
"110 VAC" means that the RMS voltage is 110. That means that the same RMS
current ( and average power) will be drawn as for 110VDC ( which also has an
RMS voltage of 110) , since the bulb acts as a resistor.
The bulb's resistance doew change with temperature and power, but slowly -
too slowly to react to the 120Hz ripple of 60Hz AC, so that resistance
variation with temperature doesn't apply here.
Phil
From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 07:15:32 -0500
Hehe, gotta remember that AC is off half the time so the bulb starts to dim
on the off time then brighten on the on cycle, since DC is on all the time,
the bulb would work fine, but I don't think hooking a 110ac light bulb to a
110 dc pack would be a good idea :op
----- Original Message ----- From: "Danny Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 2:24 AM
Subject: Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
Incandescent works perfectly fine on DC. Like check a flashlight.
Danny
Ryan Stotts wrote:
ark McCurdy wrote:
http://www.medscape.com/viewarticle/410681_3
The lowest frequency for electrical current in the United States is
60 Hertz (Hz) >because this is the lowest frequency at which an
incandescent light functions.
Is that so? I thought they used 50 Hz in Europe? What types of light
are they using..?
_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee®
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Proper AC delivered to your home is supposed to be a sine wave. That means
that the current isn't off half the time, but gradually decreases from top
peak to bottom peak and similarly increases from bottom to top. The
measurement 120V is actually based on something called root-mean-square
(RMS) and the true peaks of the sine wave are really approx +- 170V. For a
pure sine wave, 170V peak-to-peak is equivalent to 120V DC. This is Vpeak =
Vrms / .707
More info on the web. e.g.: http://www.ultracad.com/articles/rms.pdf
Now, my electronics background is only moderate, but I think an incandescent
filament can sustain substantial spikes as long as they are short because it
takes time (energy) to burn out the filament. As well, a bulb rated for
120V DC should be able to sustain the 170V peaks since, over time, the
actual energy passing through is equivalent to that for 120V DC (again,
assuming a pure sine wave).
Apart from that, doesn't a 120V bulb rating mean 120V AC?
Disclaimer: if you're running a bulb off any other AC source, you'll have to
figure out the DC equivalent based on the actual wave form of the AC.
Peri Hartman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, 28 August, 2005 08:39
Subject: Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
Most incandescent light bulbs are 120V, so it shouldn't be a problem. If
you
are worried about it, get a 130V bulb - they are readily available.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
Hehe, gotta remember that AC is off half the time so the bulb starts to
dim
on the off time then brighten on the on cycle, since DC is on all the
time,
the bulb would work fine, but I don't think hooking a 110ac light bulb to
a
110 dc pack would be a good idea :op
----- Original Message -----
From: "Danny Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 2:24 AM
Subject: Re: Safety - AC/DC, voltage, current
> Incandescent works perfectly fine on DC. Like check a flashlight.
>
> Danny
>
> Ryan Stotts wrote:
>
>>ark McCurdy wrote:
>>
>>
>>>http://www.medscape.com/viewarticle/410681_3
>>>
>>
>>
>>>The lowest frequency for electrical current in the United States is
>>>
>>60 Hertz (Hz) >because this is the lowest frequency at which an
>>incandescent light functions.
>>
>>Is that so? I thought they used 50 Hz in Europe? What types of light
>>are they using..?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey John!
There are a few of us new folks here! More everyday in
fact!
I had considered my choice for a conversion and liked
the villager(predicissaor to the windstar?) I used to
own one... But looking at the windstar, I felt the
weight of them might be a problem? I had the chance to
upgrade to the windstar and chose not to because they
are guzzlers and seemed weighty!...more than the
villager at least!
Any Idea what yours weighs and how much of that will
be removed with the engine/trans/rad ect?
Tom
-----snip-----
> Hello All!
>
> I'm new to this forum & EV's. I saw "Sucking Amp's"
> on the Discovery Channel
> (least I THINK it was the Discovery Channel) and
> I've been thinking of
> converting my 1998 Ford Windstar to an EV. ANY
> suggestions would VERY MUCH
> appreciated.
>
> Thank you!
>
> John S. Winters
__________________________________________________________
Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi John,
I would also take the time to read a few conversion diaries to get an
idea of what you're up against. If you look through the EVAlbum for
entries with websites attached, you'll usually find them. Here are
a few to get you started:
http://home.pacbell.net/evranger/evranger.htm
http://jerryrig.com/convert/
http://www.evsupersite.net/pages/807953/index.htm
http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda/civic/civic.html
Tim
On Aug 28, 2005, at 6:26 AM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: "john.s.winters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: August 27, 2005 9:49:15 PM PDT
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: New Here
Thank you! I will order the book on my next payday. How many
batteries do
you figure it will take? I can drive a manual trannie I grew up in
Iowa and
have used them most of my life.
John S. Winters
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi!
There is one of those scrubbing machines(the kind they
use to do malls and huge stores) at the recyclers that
I may be able to get for a really good price. It's 36
volts and appears to have all the components, the
motor looks new and the electric components look to be
undamaged... it was in a fire and the exterior is
wrecked.
I figure it is too small for a car, but might work in
a motorcycle or boat application. I was looking at it
thinking ..."all the work has been done with
this...just need to install it"
So are any of you guys familiar with these things?
Anybody worked these into something useful?
Is there a way I could increase the power I can get
from it(like upping the voltage?)
I've read on here that the voltage from some systems
have been upped from 48 to 96? but what do you look
for when deciding whether you can increase the system
voltage?
Thanks!
Tom
__________________________________________________________
Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John Lussmyer mentioned:
> I had one working some time ago, but my M100 died, and I haven't
> picked up another. From what I remember, you MAY need a Null-Modem
> adapter.
I've tried it both ways.
Laptop hyperterm reads Link10 data fine.
EVdash on Palm105 didn't...Null Modem cable or not.
The last time I looked at the EVdash code I was looking at the expected data
format vs what the newer Link10 spits out.
I'll have to look at this again, but I had a big question in my mind whether
the data format from the Link10 matched what the EVdash was expecting. This
might be a contribuiting problem with making it work---data structure change
in Link10 serial data.
If anyone is successfully using a Palm with the EVdash, I'd like to know
which Palm model, which version of Palm OS and any version info on the
Link10---it may be that only the older E-Meters with older Palms will work
without recompiling to v3.5 OS or newer AND confirming and/or changing the
data structure expectations in the EVdash SW.
I need to look into this again.
-Myles
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am trying to fit my 25 orbitals in the 300zx. And I have some questions.
1. Circuit Breaker (2 Hienemann 250's in series)
Would it be ok to put the circuit breaker mid pack?
The reason is the breaker can go in the front of the rear battery
rack, upright and accessable from the drivers seat.(although, if it
pops, it would probably scare me 1/2 to death)
I will still have a pack disconnect and a fuse and the kilovac EV250
2. Fuses
On motor loop and/or battery side of controller?
3. Battery sprawl
It looks like I will have rows at different levels of 5,4,5 then
hang 3 under where the tank was in back
this is 17 batteries centered around the rear axle and compresses the
suspension 4 ".
the remaining 8 will go in 3 seperate locations up front. So they are
kinda all over with cables between the packs that are longer than
the average jumpers. Is this a problem?
4. I am out of money :-( and don't have regulators yet. Letting the
batteries sit without chargeing them is bad and charging them without
regulators is bad, Is there anything I can do to get buy until I can
afford regulators? Can I just set the equalize current down to 1 amp and
let it equalize longer on the weekends? If I use the 2 zeners and a
flashlight bulb trick, do I have to interface to the charger? or can I
manually set the charger in equalize mode?
Thanks, Man I am getting excited as I get closer and closer to that
elusive EV grin. I have a lot of people in this town interested too.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So I have been working with these SAFT BB600 flooded NiCDs in the
Elec-Trak E20 (36 volt system, tractor, peak draw 250 amps with mower).
I've replaced the six T015's with a string of 30 BB600's (1.2v, 40ah
actual capacity, 30ah rated NiCDs) and the initial results are "wow,
what a feeling".
Monitoring them with a single E-Meter I can recover 100% charge with a
90% CEF using the count AH method and overcharging a tad. Charger is the
on-board ferroresonant "rock", which brings the pack to about 44 volts
at 12+amps, then tapers down to 45 volts at 2 amps. Pretty much what the
BB600's seem to be happy with.
Now I am working on my second string of 30. All 60 fit in the back
battery compartment, but now I need to figure out charging. There are
bad things that happen apparently maybe if you charge NiCDs in parallel.
My question is along the line of how bad and how much.
My plan is to buy a Link-20 meter, which is basically two link-10's in a
single box without RS232. Two shunts will be used, one per string. Phase
I will be to bond the strings together and charge/discharge them in
parallel. The Link20 should show if this works or not pretty quickly
based on the AH counter.
If that doesn't work I'll put a pair of contactor between the packs and
charge them using a diode blocker to prevent cross-charge. This might be
a problem since I'll have a .5 volt drop across the diodes.
Should be interesting to see how this works. Any thoughts or comments?
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wow, some good stuff in the news today(24th), sorry only one is directly
EV Related. These are video clips, the link is on the right side in green
with big 'WATCH' text. The first is about the Venturi Fetish!
- http://www.venturi.fr/us/fetish/specs/specs.php3
-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_electric_vehicle#Production_announcements
-
http://search.cnn.com/pages/search.jsp?query=Cars%20with%20electric%20appeal
Next, gas price, yadda yadda, duhh.
-
http://search.cnn.com/pages/search.jsp?query=Fighting%20back%20at%20higher%20gas%20prices
L8r
Ryan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Anyone know of (or happen to be) a EV-savvy mechanic/shop in the Seattle
area (ideally, one that wouldn't mind me looking over their shoulder
and/or helping - although I know that may not be feasible)?
Local EV Resources, Businesses in Washington, Oregon, and BC Canada:
http://www.seattleeva.net/index.php/Local_Resources
L8r
Ryan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 02:29 PM 28/08/05 -0400, Tom wrote:
Hi!
There is one of those scrubbing machines(the kind they
use to do malls and huge stores) at the recyclers that
I may be able to get for a really good price. It's 36
volts and appears to have all the components, the
motor looks new and the electric components look to be
undamaged... it was in a fire and the exterior is
wrecked.
If it is cheap enough and you are interested to do this, how about grabbing
it and electrifying a go-cart for a first project/learning exercise?
I figure it is too small for a car, but might work in
a motorcycle or boat application.
As-is the control is probably more than a boat would need - but the only
boat I've done was only two forward and two reverse speeds, fine for the
use they have for it. Other listees could be in a better position (more
boats) than I. It may be enough for a micro car - as long as you consider
it to be more of a NEV than a car. Low (around town) speeds and short range
(30 miles or so) may be do-able.
So are any of you guys familiar with these things?
There are a couple of listers who work with forklift services - I know John
Wayland does.
Anybody worked these into something useful?
A guy in New Zealand (Gary someone) put a system out of (I think) an
airport tow truck into a van - a search of the archives under 'forklift
motor' and similar may find it. His was reasonably successful, but I think
his was a bigger system (48V and bigger motor/amps).
Is there a way I could increase the power I can get
from it(like upping the voltage?)
Then you move away from the control system design - a new controller would
probably be needed. But you can (for example) double the battery voltage,
use the system contactors from the sweeper in dual-in-series (two switching
together with the contacts connected one after the other) to get the
contact voltage rating. The motor will run at twice the RPM for the same
amps (and same heating) but deliver twice the hp.
Regards
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
speaking of forklifts....any place that sells used forklift motors or such?
going to be doing my first conversion in a few months and would rather start
with used equipment than take the chance of frying a brand new
motor/controller/charger...
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Massey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
At 02:29 PM 28/08/05 -0400, Tom wrote:
Hi!
There is one of those scrubbing machines(the kind they
use to do malls and huge stores) at the recyclers that
I may be able to get for a really good price. It's 36
volts and appears to have all the components, the
motor looks new and the electric components look to be
undamaged... it was in a fire and the exterior is
wrecked.
If it is cheap enough and you are interested to do this, how about
grabbing it and electrifying a go-cart for a first project/learning
exercise?
I figure it is too small for a car, but might work in
a motorcycle or boat application.
As-is the control is probably more than a boat would need - but the only
boat I've done was only two forward and two reverse speeds, fine for the
use they have for it. Other listees could be in a better position (more
boats) than I. It may be enough for a micro car - as long as you consider
it to be more of a NEV than a car. Low (around town) speeds and short
range (30 miles or so) may be do-able.
So are any of you guys familiar with these things?
There are a couple of listers who work with forklift services - I know
John Wayland does.
Anybody worked these into something useful?
A guy in New Zealand (Gary someone) put a system out of (I think) an
airport tow truck into a van - a search of the archives under 'forklift
motor' and similar may find it. His was reasonably successful, but I think
his was a bigger system (48V and bigger motor/amps).
Is there a way I could increase the power I can get
from it(like upping the voltage?)
Then you move away from the control system design - a new controller would
probably be needed. But you can (for example) double the battery voltage,
use the system contactors from the sweeper in dual-in-series (two
switching together with the contacts connected one after the other) to get
the contact voltage rating. The motor will run at twice the RPM for the
same amps (and same heating) but deliver twice the hp.
Regards
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John, hello.. Welcome to the world of Evs..
I converted a 69 VW several years ago and wrote an article on my
experiences... Check here for the article..
http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~rgibson/Merritt/Stories/voltwgn.htm
l
REVgards,
Dennis Merritt
Sacramento
1990 Zzipper "WB6UHQ1"
1989 Solar Electric Escort "ELKTRIK"
1969 VW "VOLTWGN"
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Tim Clevenger
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 10:57 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: New Here
Hi John,
I would also take the time to read a few conversion diaries to get an idea
of what you're up against. If you look through the EVAlbum for entries with
websites attached, you'll usually find them. Here are a few to get you
started:
http://home.pacbell.net/evranger/evranger.htm
http://jerryrig.com/convert/
http://www.evsupersite.net/pages/807953/index.htm
http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda/civic/civic.html
Tim
On Aug 28, 2005, at 6:26 AM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
> From: "john.s.winters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: August 27, 2005 9:49:15 PM PDT
> To: <[email protected]>
> Subject: RE: New Here
>
>
> Thank you! I will order the book on my next payday. How many
> batteries do
> you figure it will take? I can drive a manual trannie I grew up in
> Iowa and
> have used them most of my life.
>
> John S. Winters
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
:o/
not found when clicking link...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Merritt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 6:43 PM
Subject: RE: New Here
John, hello.. Welcome to the world of Evs..
I converted a 69 VW several years ago and wrote an article on my
experiences... Check here for the article..
http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~rgibson/Merritt/Stories/voltwgn.htm
l
REVgards,
Dennis Merritt
Sacramento
1990 Zzipper "WB6UHQ1"
1989 Solar Electric Escort "ELKTRIK"
1969 VW "VOLTWGN"
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Tim Clevenger
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 10:57 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: New Here
Hi John,
I would also take the time to read a few conversion diaries to get an idea
of what you're up against. If you look through the EVAlbum for entries
with
websites attached, you'll usually find them. Here are a few to get you
started:
http://home.pacbell.net/evranger/evranger.htm
http://jerryrig.com/convert/
http://www.evsupersite.net/pages/807953/index.htm
http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda/civic/civic.html
Tim
On Aug 28, 2005, at 6:26 AM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: "john.s.winters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: August 27, 2005 9:49:15 PM PDT
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: New Here
Thank you! I will order the book on my next payday. How many
batteries do
you figure it will take? I can drive a manual trannie I grew up in
Iowa and
have used them most of my life.
John S. Winters
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Tom,
I've had a lot of fun with these machines. I get them for around fifty bucks
at various auctions.
There is one of those scrubbing machines(the kind they
use to do malls and huge stores) at the recyclers that
I may be able to get for a really good price.
I figure it is too small for a car, but might work in
a motorcycle or boat application. I was looking at it
thinking ..."all the work has been done with
this...just need to install it"
I've built a walk behind utility cart for a friend that carries over a
thousand pounds of bottled water, juice, soda etc. for his vending route at
a local college, an electric pontoon boat (for myself), an electric three
wheeled bike (for the previously mentioned friend) and two garden tractor
conversions.
I've read on here that the voltage from some systems
have been upped from 48 to 96? but what do you look
for when deciding whether you can increase the system
voltage?
My scrubbers have been 24 volts. The voltage was increased from the original
24 volts to 36 volts on the utility cart and the three wheeled bike (for
more speed). There have been no problems in the 8-10 years of daily use of
these vehicles.
As far as the pontoon boat goes, my sister forgot to put oil in the gas on
our trusty old 5 1/2 horse Evinrude last year. The ICE lasted about a half
an hour . Over the winter, I took out the powerhead, (easy) and replaced it
with a scrubber motor (24 volt) and controller. It all fits in the original
housing, except for the top of the motor sticking out of the top of the hood
by 2 inches. (I built an aluminum shroud to cover that). At 24 Volts the new
motor provides a maximum speed of 6 miles per hour. We are happy with this
speed. (It is more than needed for trolling, but a comfortable speed for
just touring the shoreline in the evening) Everyone loves the ease of use
and almost silent operation. Two solar panels on the stern keep the Sam's
Club golf cart batteries charged during the week as long as the sun shines.
Otherwise, there's an onboard charger that keeps the charge up during heavy
use periods or cloudy times.
The other motors went to electrifying Ariens hydrostatic garden tractors.
Again, 24 volt motors, but I had to bump them up to 36 volts to get the RPM
that I needed. Being hydrostatic drive, constant RPM was fine, so no
controller was needed. Just an on/off switch.
Hope this helps,
Tim Medeck
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Need to add an l at the end so it becomes
http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~rgibson/Merritt/Stories/voltwgn.html
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Merritt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 4:43 PM
Subject: RE: New Here
> John, hello.. Welcome to the world of Evs..
>
> I converted a 69 VW several years ago and wrote an article on my
> experiences... Check here for the article..
> http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~rgibson/Merritt/Stories/voltwgn.htm
> l
>
> REVgards,
>
> Dennis Merritt
> Sacramento
>
> 1990 Zzipper "WB6UHQ1"
> 1989 Solar Electric Escort "ELKTRIK"
> 1969 VW "VOLTWGN"
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Tim Clevenger
> Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 10:57 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: New Here
>
>
> Hi John,
>
> I would also take the time to read a few conversion diaries to get an idea
> of what you're up against. If you look through the EVAlbum for entries with
> websites attached, you'll usually find them. Here are a few to get you
> started:
>
> http://home.pacbell.net/evranger/evranger.htm
>
> http://jerryrig.com/convert/
>
> http://www.evsupersite.net/pages/807953/index.htm
>
> http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda/civic/civic.html
>
>
> Tim
>
>
>
> On Aug 28, 2005, at 6:26 AM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
>
>> From: "john.s.winters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Date: August 27, 2005 9:49:15 PM PDT
>> To: <[email protected]>
>> Subject: RE: New Here
>>
>>
>> Thank you! I will order the book on my next payday. How many
>> batteries do
>> you figure it will take? I can drive a manual trannie I grew up in
>> Iowa and
>> have used them most of my life.
>>
>> John S. Winters
>
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There are quite a few of them for a good price in various horsepower on Ebay
right now. A rewinder in Oklahoma is offering them. Some good Daewoos,
ADC's and others, but some have spline shaft drive.
Take a look at this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7541102348&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
Best of luck..
Mark Ward
St. Charles, MO
95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
www.saabrina.blogspot.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
speaking of forklifts....any place that sells used forklift motors or
such?
going to be doing my first conversion in a few months and would rather
start with used equipment than take the chance of frying a brand new
motor/controller/charger...
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Massey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: Ready made motor&controller&batterypack&charger... any
thoughts?
At 02:29 PM 28/08/05 -0400, Tom wrote:
Hi!
There is one of those scrubbing machines(the kind they
use to do malls and huge stores) at the recyclers that
I may be able to get for a really good price. It's 36
volts and appears to have all the components, the
motor looks new and the electric components look to be
undamaged... it was in a fire and the exterior is
wrecked.
If it is cheap enough and you are interested to do this, how about
grabbing it and electrifying a go-cart for a first project/learning
exercise?
I figure it is too small for a car, but might work in
a motorcycle or boat application.
As-is the control is probably more than a boat would need - but the only
boat I've done was only two forward and two reverse speeds, fine for the
use they have for it. Other listees could be in a better position (more
boats) than I. It may be enough for a micro car - as long as you consider
it to be more of a NEV than a car. Low (around town) speeds and short
range (30 miles or so) may be do-able.
So are any of you guys familiar with these things?
There are a couple of listers who work with forklift services - I know
John Wayland does.
Anybody worked these into something useful?
A guy in New Zealand (Gary someone) put a system out of (I think) an
airport tow truck into a van - a search of the archives under 'forklift
motor' and similar may find it. His was reasonably successful, but I
think his was a bigger system (48V and bigger motor/amps).
Is there a way I could increase the power I can get
from it(like upping the voltage?)
Then you move away from the control system design - a new controller
would probably be needed. But you can (for example) double the battery
voltage, use the system contactors from the sweeper in dual-in-series
(two switching together with the contacts connected one after the other)
to get the contact voltage rating. The motor will run at twice the RPM
for the same amps (and same heating) but deliver twice the hp.
Regards
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 05:44 PM 28/08/05 -0500, Mark McCurdy wrote:
speaking of forklifts....any place that sells used forklift motors or such?
going to be doing my first conversion in a few months and would rather
start with used equipment than take the chance of frying a brand new
motor/controller/charger...
Hi Mark and all
My motors (yes, i have accumulated a few) came from various sources.
One came from a forklift repair place - a forklift that they were junking I
got the motor, control gear and charger from. The rest of the motors came
from scrap dealers, in one case a complete 72V GE control system including
an EV-1 SCR controller and a DC/DC converter.
The biggest motor that I've got is a a Hitachi 48V, don't know the kW
rating since the nameplate has been scratched. I paid almost nothing for
it, but it needs a few hundred dollars spent on it repairing the brush end
housing - but that is also an opportunity to fit blower ports. It'd be big
enough to power a bigger vehicle - 11 inches diameter by 15 inches or so
long. One day one of our Nissan Skylines' may get converted (got to finish
the truck first).
Ask around your local scrap dealers and forklift repair places. Probably
the cheapest way to get into EVing would be the full control gear from a
heavy 72V or higher fork (for the power handling), and a motor from a 48V
medium-sized fork (in order to get the revs up for road use).
No, you can't have any of the motors I have accumulated... unless you can
afford shiping from Australia!
James
--- End Message ---
