EV Digest 4657

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: Wayland Invitational Report
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) RE: Can some one HELP Dan, Near Salt Lake
        by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Another Newby
        by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: Vanity plates
        by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Re: Another Newby
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Ryan Bohm - Presto on 144V?
        by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: Wayland Invitational Report
        by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) RE: NiMH powered Scirocco
        by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: Steves Mower, was, 2000
        by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) Planning your EV (Was: Re: Another Newby)
        by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) 82 Ford EVscort brake problem
        by Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: Another newby here
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: Another newby - 96V Prestolite @ 144V
        by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Newbie Question: Electric Assist for 1/2 Ton Truck
        by "Krunnels" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: EV identification
        by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: battery storage charging
        by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: belt driven ev volkswagen
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Re: Alltrax 7245 controller
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) RE: NiMH powered Scirocco
        by "Noel P. Luneau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) RE: Ryan Bohm - Presto on 144V?
        by "rcboyd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) RE: "Gone Postal" update
        by "rcboyd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) RE: NiMH powered Scirocco
        by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for bringing us up to date, Ken.  You must have infinite patience to 
have typed that in on a phone keyboard!


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator

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Steve, tell Dan there are three people in Utah that I know of.  Ryan Bohm of
EVSource lives in Logan, Utah.  Both David Dymaxion and I live in the Salt
Lake City area.  I'm currently working on my EV and hope to have it drivable
this October.

Bill Dennis  

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Steven Lough
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 7:59 AM
To: Dan Ward; Electric Vehicle Discussion List RCVR
Subject: Can some one HELP Dan, Near Salt Lake

Dear Dan:

  I hear ya...  I've been at it for a quarter of a century.

Am forwarding your request for help to the national EV Discussion List. 
  If there is any one out there who can help, this EV List should 
generate some response.  ( you are encouraged to JOIN the list your 
self..  it is a treasure-trove of EV Information, and a place to pose 
questions and get answers..)

Good Luck

Dan Ward wrote:
> Steven,
>  
> Hello, my name is Dan Ward. I came across your website and after reading 
> your background, I decided you would be someone I could trust for some 
> advice. I have always been perplexed with this nation's dependence on 
> oil. Talk about an addiction with an unquenchable thirst. We definitely 
> live in interesting times when you see "Soccer Moms" driving a 4 door 
> diesel truck with one kid in the back seat and not a scratch in the 
> paint on the inside of the bed.
>  
> My question to you is, do you know someone that I could talk to about 
> EV's that would be located near the Salt Lake City, Utah area? I live 
> near Salt Lake and am interested in getting into an EV. This area has 
> never been known for encouraging use of alternate-fuel vehicles. I am 
> relatively young and have not been aware of the capabilities of EV's 
> until recently. I started toying around with the idea about 6 
> months ago, but it is hard to move in a direction that seems slightly 
> risky for me. I am not an electrical engineer and don't have a ton of 
> money around to "experiment" with my own car. I need someone dependable 
> and trustworthy to help me through the process of converting my car, or 
> purchasing an EV.
>  
> Any advice that you could give to me would be greatly appreciated.
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Dan Ward

-- 
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle,  WA  98115-7230
Day:  206 850-8535
Eve:  206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web:     http://www.seattleeva.org



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Thanks for the tip - hopefully this will go out in the right format!  I think I 
find myself in the same position as a lot of first-timers - wanting to try 
out all the cool toys.  And AGM's are waaay cooler than golf cart bats.  I 
definately see the wisdom of starting out with "trainers", and may go 
that way, but the associated stuff that tags along with floodies - fans, 
watering, etc., is kind of a turn-off.  I've turned the thing over in my 
mind repeatedly - coming to a different conclusion every time.  




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only 6 in oregon? darn. that makes it more of a challenge, as it was,
the girls at the DMV got a chuckle when I asked if "I could buy a
vowel"  GASNOMOR would of been nice or NOGAS4ME

The license plate is just the beginning, I have plans for the license
plate frame
"my other car";"uses gas"
"   28 hp"; " wanna race"
"I've got" ;" lead poisoning"

Along the drivers side door in small letters at the base of the window
"This car is drive thru friendly"

The huge back window, suck amps racing sticker and perhaps ""I have
gone"; 28days ; "since last gas purchase"" like those days since last
accident posters at work.


Gotta spread the word ;-)

I am gonna recieve 2 plates(in about 12 weeks) but this car realy only
has a place for 1 plate. On my grand am there was a license plate holder
bracket for adding a plate up front, has anyone ever seen such a thing
for the 84-87 300zx's?


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On 3 Sep 2005 at 9:13, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Thanks for the tip - hopefully this will go out in the right format!  

Perfect - thanks!

> I think I
> find myself in the same position as a lot of first-timers - wanting to try out
> all the cool toys.  And AGM's are waaay cooler than golf cart bats. 

I've been involved in EVs since the late 1980s, and was interested in them 
beginning in the late 1960s, so I've seen a lot of water go under the 
bridge.  There are some here whose EV involvement goes much farther back 
than mine, too.

I've watched interest in EVs wax and wane over the years.  In each peak, a 
small but significant number of people acquire EVs for the first time.  Far 
too few of them stick with EVs.

Since real battery management systems are practically nonexistent even now, 
too many of these new EVers trash their first batteries in a year or less.  
This means an unexpected expense of anwhere from $500 to $3000.  Suddenly 
this economical commuter they've been bragging about to friends and 
relatives doesn't look so economical any more.  They feel bad, and look bad.

Many times they swallow hard and pony up the cash.  

But then it happens again.

At that point the EV is usually parked in the garage, where it sits, maybe 
for years.  Finally they put an ad in the paper (these days on Ebay): 
"Electric car, less than 1000 miles, great shape, needs batteries."  The car 
sells for a fraction of the new price.  When his friends ask after the EV, 
the old owner shakes his head and says "EVs are a great idea, and I liked 
mine while it worked, but I don't think they're quite ready for prime time." 
 

Let's face it, your enthusiasm for EVs can really take a hit when you sink 
$2-3k into a battery only to have it die in a year or so.  That's what I'm 
trying to prevent for you and other newbies.  

But as long as you recognize the rather high probability that you WILL drop 
that much money on this truck, maybe repeatedly, until you get the hang of 
making those AGMs last ... then go for it.  But please don't cheap out on 
the charger; that will make things even worse.  I don't think it's out of 
line to pay about as much for the charger as for two or three packs of 
batteries.


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator

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or switch to digest mode?  See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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Going thru the archives I see that Ryan Bohm has a 200SX running a Prestolite 
4001 at 144V?  I don't have an e-mail for Ryan, so I'm asking 
over the list - how does the Presto hold up at 144V?

Steve Kluge



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On Sep 3, 2005, at 2:58 AM, Ken Trough wrote:

John Wayland in White Zombie did quite well over three or four runs on the night, with no breakage. He turned the best smoke show of the evening, lined up against a Vette, and blew the Vette's doors off (though he red lit that run). Mr. Corvette was mighty impressed. John turned a 12.87 on one of his runs, and on his last run he even broke 100 on a half charged pack getting him into the Madman 100mph club for 2005! John remarked that he was satisfied with White Zombie's performance and that he is looking forward to Woodburn on Sunday.

Great report Ken and WAY TO GO Plasma Boy. I'm looking forward to tomorrow.

Paul "neon" G.

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Noel,  with the New Beetle, I have a std transmission with no clutch.  I
leave it in 2nd gear and it drives just like an automatic.  I regret
removing  the clutch, as I do not shift on the fly. If I want to go on the
highway I start off in 3rd gear. I think you will be disappointed with a
fixed gear system - it is a compromise. Moderate acceleration and moderate
top speed.

Having a std transmission with a clutch is the best solution.  With an AC
system (which has a wider power band than DC), your wife can just leave it
in 2nd and not even have to use the clutch for around town use, but you also
have the gears there for faster acceleration and or good top speed when
needed.  To reduce weight, get a lightened flywheel.

I do not have experience with DC, others can comment.

Don




Victoria, BC, Canada
 
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Noel P. Luneau
Sent: September 2, 2005 2:22 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: NiMH powered Scirocco

Hey all,

The Scirocco arrived last week dripping gas, tranny and radiator fluid -
yuck.  I'm really excited about getting the ICE powered stuff out of this
"classic car".

My 30 Ovonic NiMH 13.2v 85Ah batteries will need to charged and tested
shortly with either a Zivan or a Brusa charger (Not bought yet).  Zivan said
they have charging profiles for the Ovonics and so did Victor with the
Brusa.  I'm planning to build the battery boxes as large as possible to
facilitate different battery types when the need arises.  Since NiMH
batteries also need to be cool, the battery boxes will be insulated and have
some sort of active cooling.  Hopefully air blown fans would work.

I'm looking at suggestions from folks on what they would choose for a system
with the caveat that the existing auto tranny is dead (and not suitable if
it were alive).  I know it would have been better to buy a std tranny model
but this Scirocco only has 65K on it and is in great shape (except for the
soon to be trashed engine, tranny and radiator).

Some of the choices I see are:

1. DC - 144V series parallel with Curtis controller, series motor and
purchase and convert to std tranny (wife is sad).

2. DC - 300V series with Zilla controller, series motor and purchase and
convert to std tranny (wife is sad).

3. AC - 300V series with AC Inverter, AC Motor and Comex or Carraro gear box
(wife is happy).

Are there any other Transmission options that would be suitable?

I'm looking at either a balance or between range and acceleration.

Last question is what do you folks use for your home garage.  I was looking
at a scissor lift
http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/pages/831668/index.htm but it is
pricy at $1,000.

Thanks for all of your help,

Noel

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               Hi Steve and All,

STEVE CLUNN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
from Jerry
>
> If I were doing it I'd use 2 E teks with 
> 10-15/1 reductions,

I'm working with allot of stuff I have laying around , and don't have any
e tecks .. I should say hear I'm already on to mower 2 , which right now has 
one series 32v 1/2 hp motor on one wheel with 2 jack shafts gearing it down 
, looks like its spinning about right on 36v . Mower 1 has the hydraulic 
motors on the wheels so replacing them would not be easy , and just like 
cars , there are lots around with blown motors cheep , so mower 2 was chain 
driven to begin with and will be easy to set up with electric drive motors. 
. ,
         How about a reverse trike with one steering, drive  wheel in the rear 
like some forklifts do to get close rurning? That would only need one motor, 
controller.

>one to each wheel and use a wheelchair joy stick style forklift 
controller

One thing I would like or need :-) is to be able to have one wheel going 
forward and the other backward , this makes the mower spin around better 
without digging up the grass. I don't think this can be done with a joy 
stick , these mowers have leavers one leaver controllers one wheel,

>or 2 sevcons with reverse, regen for turning, braking to get the least 
>power drain and complete control of a ZTR mower.

sounds better ,
I can see how they really speed up mowing but at their costs, a Sevcon/e 
tek set up should be too bad cost wise and do the job very well.


                You could make a T handle throttle/forward reverse with it 
moving forward, aft for  movement and bytwisting it in nuetral could by have a 
control pot on each side, go forwrd on one wheel and reverse on the other or ny 
combo of different wheel speeds, direction. 

 

> One could use 1 motor, a diff and speraterately 
> activated brakes for turning though would have less control.
I was thinking of this also , and it would be easy to set up ,
this is on the list ,


> And maybe another E tek to drive the blades with 
> a resistor to absorb some of the shock if the blade hits something so you 
> don't overamp the motor..
or one for each blade , ,,, well right now I have , what looks like a city 
car motor for no 2 and I'm thinking of putting it right on the deck driving 
the middle blade ( out side blades are belted to this one ) through a lov 
joy coupler.


                My Pedal Power Alum trike has a loose belt as the first part of 
the double reduction and I have been impressed at just how well it drives while 
absorbing drive line shock.

                                          HTH's, 

                                                Jerry Dycus

> 130 amphr of 72vdc li-ion would get you about 
> 80+ miles in the Freedom depending on what speed you go.


> I'd think there could be a fairly good market 
> for com EV lawn mowers that didn't make noise or pollution and would 
> allow you to start earlier without problems, important in the summer with 
> your long days. And probably get a premium for it.
> You could use an inverter to power your other 
> equipment like blowers, trimmers, ect.
> HTH's,
> Jerry Dycus

I have a edger that I replaced the gas motor with a electric motor and it 
works great, I run it off my truck pack taped in the middle . so Yes having 
a mobile 72 v supply will make this easy ,

Thanks all for your ideas.
steve clunn




> 




                
---------------------------------
 Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 

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On Sep 3, 2005, at 9:13 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I think I find myself in the same position as a lot of first-timers - wanting to try out all the cool toys. And AGM's are waaay cooler than golf cart bats. I definately see the wisdom of starting out with "trainers", and may go that way, but the associated stuff that tags along with floodies - fans, watering, etc., is kind of a turn-off. I've turned the thing over in my
mind repeatedly - coming to a different conclusion every time.

Been there, done that.

It might help to define your car better in your mind, before you start in on designing it. What, exactly, is its mission?

Once you've settled on a target, you can start thinking about things like which donor car and what batteries and which controller, etc.

For example, my own process went something like this:

All my life: not very interested in cars, more into books and computers.

12 years ago: got interested in electric cars, collected some literature and plans, decided I really liked the Doran kit car but was put off by all the work (none of which I knew how to do anyway).

2 years ago: got serious after Gulf War II started and decided to do something personally about reducing US dependence on oil. Found the EVDL and began to read it voraciously. Realized that with this resource, I could manage to build an electric car.

The car's mission: reduce petroleum usage.

Now, I could start thinking clearly about some of the other goals that support the main mission.

1) Usable. Must be approximately as useful and familiar as a gas car, or neither I nor anyone else will want to use it. 2) Educational. Must appeal to other people, to encourage them to reduce THEIR petroleum usage too. 3) Doable. Must be simple enough to build that even a complete automotive neophyte can manage to actually complete the project. 4) Fun. Why not? Anything worth doing is worth enjoying. Besides, it increases the car's appeal to myself and others, making it more likely to be used and imitated, thus reducing petroleum usage.

I was somewhat surprised to note that I hadn't included "economical" anywhere in my goals. I really don't care much about saving money on gas - it's not a significant portion of our budget. (I'm more concerned with reducing the political and environmental costs of burning gas.) Also note I said nothing about range or technologies or which vehicle.

Next step for me was to give the EV Album a thorough going-over and study what others have done. This is another vital resource, and I wouldn't have attempted this project without it. I also read as many online conversion journals as I could find, and decided to do my own. (It's kind of lame - no pictures yet - but it's online at http://learn-something.blogsite.org/ghia . Also it stops too soon, because the page fills up. I need to add some navigation. Blah blah blah sorry everyone I'll get to it one of these days, in the meantime the rest of the story is available blog-style from the home page.)

I asked the EV List for advice and got encouragement and support. I bought "Convert It!" and "Build Your Own Electric Vehicle." I began to triage my way to a plan thusly:

1) Buy existing EV or build my own? Build. I wanted a project, plus I wanted to increase the number of EVs in the world. 2) OK, build from scratch or convert? Convert. Much easier and safer and quicker. 3) Range? In-town driving. Say, 15-30 miles. I have a nice gas car for longer distances.
4) Cost?  I was able to add up about $8000 that I could afford to spend.
5) Which vehicle? Something mechanically simple and with lots of support. I waffled back and forth between an S10 pickup and a Karmann Ghia for a while, until I remembered the Fun goal. I really don't like pickup trucks.

Now I could start considering technologies.

1) AC or DC? I like the elegance and flexibility and features of an AC system, but I couldn't afford it. DC. (Next car will be AC, though. I'll just save up until I can afford it.) 2) Batteries? Flooded vs. sealed. This one wasn't very hard - I hate messes, and I want a peppy car. Plus the Ghia doesn't have a lot of spare weight or space capacity. I chose Exide Orbitals. 16 of them should give me enough lead to make my range goal, and fit easily and cleanly in the car. Plus they're really simple to bolt down. 3) Charger? Must be smart to support the Orbitals. Manzanita Micro PFC-20 and regulators. I took a really long time making up my mind about this one, and almost went with one Soneil charger per battery. Then I decided to have Jonathan Dodge, a local EV expert, build me a custom charger, until we calculated the cost which was comparable to the PFC-20. I listened to lots of advice, which helped. 4) Motor? 8in ADC. Got a good deal on a Sparrow motor from EV America. If I were doing this over again, I'd buy a used, customized motor from Jim Husted of Hi Torque Electric, just up the road from me in Redmond, OR. 5) Motor adapter? Electro Auto's comes highly recommended. EV America could only offer me a clutchless design for the Ghia, and this conflicted with the Usability and Fun goals. 6) Controller? A local EVer, Jonathan Dodge, offered to sell me his spare Auburn Grizzly controller with his custom digital controller board. Failing this I would probably have ponied up the money for a Zilla 1K.

The rest I'm still working out.

And the process wasn't this logical and linear, either. I kept looping back to earlier decisions and changing them if I didn't like where they had taken me. Reading online conversion journals give you some idea of how this process works.

I've made some mistakes that have cost me a few hundred dollars so far, but nothing really major yet. (Hint: tell your adapter maker EXACTLY which motor you have, by part number.) And when people ask me when it will be done, I reply "I have no idea. I've never done this before." I wanted it done by this year's Woodburn, but didn't make it. Perhaps next year. But I don't regret all the time spent thinking and researching. It pays off, big time.

Well, that ran on much longer than I expected.  I hope it was helpful.

--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org

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Mine is a 120v system with a GE DC Sepex motor/Soleq Sepex controller with
regen.

I think you have to have a certain kind of DC motor and controller to do
regen.

I've never run a Curtis controller so I can't answer that last one, but I'm
pretty sure your basic DC systems do not do regen.

Was your car made by Soleq?

Marv

> From: "Gabriel Alarcon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 21:29:17 -0700
> To: <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: 82 Ford EVscort brake problem
> 
> Is your EV system an AC system w/ designed in regen braking?  Mine is DC, no
> regen.  Can regen be implemented on a 96v DC system w/ a Curtis controller?

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[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> After lurking for years, I finally took the plunge and am in the
> process of acquiring a previously converted mid-70's Ford Courier
> pickup with a Prestolite 96V motor.

Congratulations! You have decided to become part of the solution rather
than part of the problem!

> The batteries are dead, and some or all of the smoke may have left
> the old 96V controller.

That's typical. That what makes it affordable! :-)

> If the controller is dead, I'd like to go to 120 or even 144V.  Will
> the Prestolite be OK with that?

Yes. Prestolites are pretty rugged motors. The controller steps the
voltage down, so the motor rarely sees full pack voltage anyway.

> If I go to a higher voltage, I may go to AGM bats, and I accept
> that that means some kind of battery regulating system. After
> reading John Wayland's explanation of bad boy charging (in
> particular at 144V) I'm curious if Rudman Regs can be used with
> a bad boy system?

If you use AGMs on your first EV, just be aware that they are harder to
use correctly. You need a better charger, and some sort of battery
management system. John Wayland can get away with a Bad Boy and no
regulators because he has decades of experience, and religiously
monitors what is going on. How are you going to feel if you murder a
couple thousand dollars worth of batteries because you got interested in
a movie and forgot to turn the charger off?

Rudman regs try to limit the voltage by bypassing some of the charging
current. But the current from a Bad Boy charger isn't regulated. If left
on, it will simply overwhelm the regulators and overcharge the batteries
anyway.

If you must charge your AGMs with a Bad Boy (i.e. nothing but a bridge
rectifier and a collection of extension cords), then I would use a 132v
pack (eleven 12v batteries). 120vac x 1.4 = 168vdc, which is 15.27v per
12v battery. That's too high without regulators, but the charging
current will be under 2 amps. Therefore, you can add regulators and they
won't burn up. Even the simple little zener-lamp regulators I sell will
work.

Not a 120v pack, because the end-of-charge voltage is way too high
(168vdc / 10 = 16.8v per 12v battery!) and the end-of-charge current is
over 5 amps. You can get away with this with floodeds, which just use a
lot of water; but not AGMs. If you try regulators, they will just burn
up or overheat.

Not a 144v pack, because you'll never reach full charge. It tops out at
168vdc / 12 = 14v per 12v battery. Too low to reach full charge, but too
high for a float voltage.

Also, be sure your Bad Boy has a timer! The biggest mistake is
forgetting to turn it off. Use a timer that will automatically turn it
off after X hours in case you forget.
-- 
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
        -- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net

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Hi Everyone,

If the controller is dead, I'd like to go to 120 or even 144V. Will the Prestolite be OK with that?

My 96V Prestolite MTC-4001 *loves* 144V :) What it loves even more is the Zilla Z1K. I have the valet mode (second set of programmed settings on the Zilla which is activated by toggling a switch) set to the same voltage (144V), but only 500 amps. Man, is that no fun! Teenagers around the neighborhood really get a kick out it when I start accelerating in valet mode, and pop it into normal mode which is set for the full 1000 amps. They call it the "power switch".
-Ryan
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, WarP, and PowerCheq
All at the best prices available!
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781

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Hello,

I am interested in alternative means of power, even more so since the price of 
fuel is going out of sight.  I have looked at a number of conversions and the 
one I keep coming back to is electric power.  I currently have an F150 and use 
it work.  I would like to build a small trailer that houses an electric motor 
and assist in acceleration and primarily responsible for sustaining speeds of 
45-65 mph.  I am aware of the range by researching different websites.  Some 
question that come to mind are what size motor?
Given the motor size, how many batteries? How much horsepower is needed to 
maintain 45-65 mph.  Are their axles or cv joints availalable to mount directly 
to the motor.  Eventually, convert powersteering and a/c compressor Electric 
driven.  I have many other questions but would like to start with these.  Any 
help would be appreciated.  

Thanks,

Jrod

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Did he happen to mention which issue of Greencar Journal it will appear in?

STEVE CLUNN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:There's going to be a aritcel in greencar 
about Tom's car , I can't say to 
much about his project as he has asked me not to , which seems a little 
Tilly to me but so it goes .... Steve Clunn
> On 9/2/05, Andrew Letton wrote:
>> I believe it is this car:
>> http://floridaeaa.org/photo/index.php?spgmGal=Events_Gallery/EV_Rally_April_2005&spgmPic=28&spgmFilters=#pic
>> which I have heard is a one-off three wheeled EV. Tom is an associate
>> of Steve Clunn's; maybe Steve will chime in with some details.
>> hth,
>> Andrew
>>
>> Ryan Wright wrote:
>>
>> >http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/616b.jpg
>> >
>> >Look at the white car on the left. Anyone know what that is?
>> >
>> >-Ryan
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
> 




Future 72 Super Beetle conversion in progress
                
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
 Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we.

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They still sell them ironically enough under the name "heavy duty".
They're actually still used for the batteries included in products which already have batteries in them when you buy them (somewhat rare nowadays). The main benefit is carbons, unlike alkalines, can't leak and damage a device if it gets run down; they don't have a liquid electrolyte. They also have a lower rate of self-discharge and if the device is going to be stored for years carbons might outlast the alkalines.

I remember carbon batteries- the old Ray-O-Vac was ubiquitous when I was really little. Alkaline cells were something new and premium.

OK, I had to look up battery history:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_%28electricity%29

Do you know Benjamin Frankly coined the term "battery" because the shock from it battered a person? Should I believe this? Because it kinda sounds like an urban legend.

Danny

David Roden wrote:

Carbon-zinc cells are primary (non-rechargeable) cells. They were the most common type when I was a kid (and had toys that used them ;-), but they're almost never sold any more. They've been almost entirely supplanted by manganese alkaline cells.


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator

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http://www.e-volks.com

This should do it.  LR........

----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 9:08 PM
Subject: belt driven ev volkswagen


Hello, does anyone have the website for the belt driven volkswagen ev ??
The ev engine was mounted beside the tranny and driven by belt and I think he wanted 500 bucks for the adapter.

Thanks Rich       [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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--- Begin Message --- I think they are the same or cheaper. Here in California they are 126 US dollars. LR..... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cwarman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Cc: "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 6:27 AM
Subject: Re: Alltrax 7245 controller


How does the price compare between EV145's and the T-145's ?

CWarman

Lawrence Rhodes wrote:

Using the EV-145 will only add 60 or so pounds to your battery weight. The EV - 145's are superior in every way to the Trojans. LR........ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: Alltrax 7245 controller


Hi all,

The reason why i want to use the Alltrax is because i need to stay to a weight limit and i can achieve that through the 12 volt SCS225 trojan's. Also in comparison to a curtis, the curtis controller puts out less amps at that voltage yet costs twice as much, with hardly any features, i don't see why i should pay for the curtis at all..

Since it has only three motor terminals, how do i hook it up to my 6.7 ADC

Cheers



.



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Hi Don,

Thanks for the advise.  So a fixed gear system like the single speed
gearbox Solectria AT120 found in the Force is a compromise because it's
fixed to only one gear ratio like 10:1.   It will be a pain to convert
the car to a std tranny.  However, maybe less of a pain than fabricating
a custom mounting system for an AT120 (Is this a rebadged Comex), Comex
or Carraro gear box.  I'm sure my wife could figure out one gear
(although letting out the clutch when starting off is the hard part- if
needed).

I'm been lurking on your Beetle conversion site for months - I am very
impressed with your Beetle!  Especially how you made an effort to have
it look OEM.  Go Canada (my homeland).

Thanks,

Noel 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Don Cameron
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 10:48 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: NiMH powered Scirocco

Noel,  with the New Beetle, I have a std transmission with no clutch.  I
leave it in 2nd gear and it drives just like an automatic.  I regret
removing  the clutch, as I do not shift on the fly. If I want to go on
the highway I start off in 3rd gear. I think you will be disappointed
with a fixed gear system - it is a compromise. Moderate acceleration and
moderate top speed.

Having a std transmission with a clutch is the best solution.  With an
AC system (which has a wider power band than DC), your wife can just
leave it in 2nd and not even have to use the clutch for around town use,
but you also have the gears there for faster acceleration and or good
top speed when needed.  To reduce weight, get a lightened flywheel.

I do not have experience with DC, others can comment.

Don




Victoria, BC, Canada
 
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Noel P. Luneau
Sent: September 2, 2005 2:22 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: NiMH powered Scirocco

Hey all,

The Scirocco arrived last week dripping gas, tranny and radiator fluid -
yuck.  I'm really excited about getting the ICE powered stuff out of
this "classic car".

My 30 Ovonic NiMH 13.2v 85Ah batteries will need to charged and tested
shortly with either a Zivan or a Brusa charger (Not bought yet).  Zivan
said they have charging profiles for the Ovonics and so did Victor with
the Brusa.  I'm planning to build the battery boxes as large as possible
to facilitate different battery types when the need arises.  Since NiMH
batteries also need to be cool, the battery boxes will be insulated and
have some sort of active cooling.  Hopefully air blown fans would work.

I'm looking at suggestions from folks on what they would choose for a
system with the caveat that the existing auto tranny is dead (and not
suitable if it were alive).  I know it would have been better to buy a
std tranny model but this Scirocco only has 65K on it and is in great
shape (except for the soon to be trashed engine, tranny and radiator).

Some of the choices I see are:

1. DC - 144V series parallel with Curtis controller, series motor and
purchase and convert to std tranny (wife is sad).

2. DC - 300V series with Zilla controller, series motor and purchase and
convert to std tranny (wife is sad).

3. AC - 300V series with AC Inverter, AC Motor and Comex or Carraro gear
box (wife is happy).

Are there any other Transmission options that would be suitable?

I'm looking at either a balance or between range and acceleration.

Last question is what do you folks use for your home garage.  I was
looking at a scissor lift
http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/pages/831668/index.htm but it
is pricy at $1,000.

Thanks for all of your help,

Noel

This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential and privileged
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Very good at 192 volts.
Bob Boyd
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 10:33 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Ryan Bohm - Presto on 144V?


Going thru the archives I see that Ryan Bohm has a 200SX running a
Prestolite 4001 at 144V?  I don't have an e-mail for Ryan, so I'm asking

over the list - how does the Presto hold up at 144V?

Steve Kluge



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Roderick,
Due to a few difficulties in the last 3 months, both physical and
technical, I was unable to start testing early enough to make it to
Woodburn.  Should make Las Vegas though.
By the way, I'm only 84 years old until the 23rd of December 05.
Bob Boyd
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Roderick Wilde
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2005 10:19 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: "Gone Postal" update

Last night by 9:30 pm I had swapped the Quaiffe gear drive posi diff in
the 
VW Corrado transaxle. After work today I installed it and was done by
8:20 
PM. I still have to put the synthetic lube in it and finish hooking up
the 
borrowed Zilla Z2K thanks to Chris Robison from Austin Texas who will be

with the team on Friday night for the Wayland Invitational Street Drags.
We 
have new tabs and I have to reinstate the insurance in the morning. It
is 
still a little tight but nothing like previous years where we were
building 
vehicles at the track :-) I must be getting old. My birthday is in a
couple 
weeks. Three years to sixty. Well if your still having fun and racing
you 
ain't old yet. I think my friend Bob Boyd may be at Woodburn with his
latest 
drag bike. I think he may be 90 by now and he still remembers tunneling
out 
of a Nazi concentration camp after being shot down by the Germans. So
hey, 
I'm still just a kid compared with him :-) I called John Wayland earlier
and 
he was still working on his car. I gave him a ration of crap and said he

would probably be late for Woodburn again and not even make it to his
own 
invitational. He assured me he would definitely be there.I think he has
too 
many fork lift buddies that would never let him live it down. They
aren't 
quite as mellow as us old ampheads. See some of you this weekend. It
will be 
a fantastic racing.

Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com




-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.18/87 - Release Date: 9/1/2005

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Noel,

Converting to standard from auto is a pain - good point.

Another consideration is to use another auto trans.  Not the most efficient,
but another possibility. Randy at CanEV did this in an Echo.

Your wife will not need to touch the clutch - at all.  The only need for a
clutch for a conventional automobile is for three reasons: 1) ICE motors are
always running 
2) have little torque at 0 RPM
3) need to change gears for power band

One the other hand, in an EV:
1) the motor does not turn when the car is stopped
2) huge torque at 0 RPM
3) have a wide powerband, and can be left in 2nd or 3rd gear at the begging
of the drive.

All she needs to do is to lift her foot off the brake pedal and step on the
accelerator pedal.


Don

P.S.  Still in Canada?



Victoria, BC, Canada
 
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Noel P. Luneau
Sent: September 3, 2005 1:03 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: NiMH powered Scirocco

Hi Don,

Thanks for the advise.  So a fixed gear system like the single speed gearbox
Solectria AT120 found in the Force is a compromise because it's
fixed to only one gear ratio like 10:1.   It will be a pain to convert
the car to a std tranny.  However, maybe less of a pain than fabricating a
custom mounting system for an AT120 (Is this a rebadged Comex), Comex or
Carraro gear box.  I'm sure my wife could figure out one gear (although
letting out the clutch when starting off is the hard part- if needed).

I'm been lurking on your Beetle conversion site for months - I am very
impressed with your Beetle!  Especially how you made an effort to have it
look OEM.  Go Canada (my homeland).

Thanks,

Noel 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Don Cameron
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 10:48 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: NiMH powered Scirocco

Noel,  with the New Beetle, I have a std transmission with no clutch.  I
leave it in 2nd gear and it drives just like an automatic.  I regret
removing  the clutch, as I do not shift on the fly. If I want to go on the
highway I start off in 3rd gear. I think you will be disappointed with a
fixed gear system - it is a compromise. Moderate acceleration and moderate
top speed.

Having a std transmission with a clutch is the best solution.  With an AC
system (which has a wider power band than DC), your wife can just leave it
in 2nd and not even have to use the clutch for around town use, but you also
have the gears there for faster acceleration and or good top speed when
needed.  To reduce weight, get a lightened flywheel.

I do not have experience with DC, others can comment.

Don




Victoria, BC, Canada
 
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Noel P. Luneau
Sent: September 2, 2005 2:22 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: NiMH powered Scirocco

Hey all,

The Scirocco arrived last week dripping gas, tranny and radiator fluid -
yuck.  I'm really excited about getting the ICE powered stuff out of this
"classic car".

My 30 Ovonic NiMH 13.2v 85Ah batteries will need to charged and tested
shortly with either a Zivan or a Brusa charger (Not bought yet).  Zivan said
they have charging profiles for the Ovonics and so did Victor with the
Brusa.  I'm planning to build the battery boxes as large as possible to
facilitate different battery types when the need arises.  Since NiMH
batteries also need to be cool, the battery boxes will be insulated and have
some sort of active cooling.  Hopefully air blown fans would work.

I'm looking at suggestions from folks on what they would choose for a system
with the caveat that the existing auto tranny is dead (and not suitable if
it were alive).  I know it would have been better to buy a std tranny model
but this Scirocco only has 65K on it and is in great shape (except for the
soon to be trashed engine, tranny and radiator).

Some of the choices I see are:

1. DC - 144V series parallel with Curtis controller, series motor and
purchase and convert to std tranny (wife is sad).

2. DC - 300V series with Zilla controller, series motor and purchase and
convert to std tranny (wife is sad).

3. AC - 300V series with AC Inverter, AC Motor and Comex or Carraro gear box
(wife is happy).

Are there any other Transmission options that would be suitable?

I'm looking at either a balance or between range and acceleration.

Last question is what do you folks use for your home garage.  I was looking
at a scissor lift
http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com/pages/831668/index.htm but it is
pricy at $1,000.

Thanks for all of your help,

Noel

This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential and privileged
information. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender
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