EV Digest 4730
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Common earth problem between DC to DC to traction pack.
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Common earth problem between DC to DC to traction pack.
by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: Metal cutting saws.. was Plasma Cutter
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Trailer vs. weight in rear question.
by "stu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Metal cutting saws.. was Plasma Cutter
by "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Cheap, light taildragger (was "Re: Rear wheel recommendations")
by "Dave Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Drilling long holes, was Metal Cutting saws...
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: EVILbus and RS232
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: An EV podcast
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) vacuum pump
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Metal cutting saws.. was Plasma Cutter
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: Cheap, light taildragger (was "Re: Rear wheel recommendations")
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: EVILbus and RS232
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Trailer vs. weight in rear question.
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: baldor motor
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Drilling long holes, was Metal Cutting saws...
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: AIR Lab's Battery Early Warning System (was RE: Help on BMS Pricing)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
18) Re: Low Rolling Resistance Tire Numbers
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Low Rolling Resistance Tire Numbers
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: LRR Tires Continued
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) Re: Highway capable conversion on a budget?
by keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Heatsink was Re: Drilling long holes
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Low Rolling Resistance Tire Numbers
by Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Drilling long holes (was Re: Metal cutting saws.. was Plasma Cutter)
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
gotta bit of a problem. My DC to DC convertor has three terminals a common
earth between the input voltage (72V) and the 12v aux system. Not isolated.
I was given this DC to DC convertor, brand new, from a friend. I am afraid
of the common earth problem, of possible electrocution. The really want to
keep this convertor because i am very short for cash (Uni student, thesis
project). What are your thoughts??
Cheers
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 2005-09-17, Robert Chew wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> gotta bit of a problem. My DC to DC convertor has three terminals a common
> earth between the input voltage (72V) and the 12v aux system. Not isolated.
> I was given this DC to DC convertor, brand new, from a friend. I am afraid
> of the common earth problem, of possible electrocution. The really want to
> keep this convertor because i am very short for cash (Uni student, thesis
> project). What are your thoughts??
Okay, so you're going to have to share your battery pack earth and
your 12V system earth. Your 12V loads are almost certainly going
to be earthed through the chassis, so one end of your pack will
be tied to chassis.
It's not a problem as such, I'd think, except that you'd need to use
an isolated charger ... you don't want to risk the chassis being live!
I'd earth the chassis while charging too, just in case of an isolation
breakdown ...
-----sharks
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee, post a note on www.practicalmachinist.com forum. This group is very
active and includes a large number of expert machinists. You may want to
indicate if you have access to a mill, drill press and or lathe.
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lee Hart
Sent: September 16, 2005 11:28 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Metal cutting saws.. was Plasma Cutter
On a related note: I have a 8" x 12" x 1/2" slab of aluminum that I would
like to use as a water-cooled heatsink. If I could drill a few holes in it
edgewise, I could make a "U" shaped path inside it, and thread the ends for
fittings (and a plug for the 3rd hole that connects the ends of the first
two.
Trouble is, a normal long twist drill bit wanders too much. I think it would
break out the side before I could drill that deep.
One suggest was a mill-end bit, which (I think) means the end is square and
not pointed. But I don't know of one long enough one to drill 10"
deep hole.
Paul Compton suggested an arc discharge cutter. Basically, you "drill"
with a carbon rod and high-current DC power supply. Push the rod close to
the aluminum, strike an arc to burn off a chunk, back off the rod to clear
the debris, and repeat. Since the rod never actually touches the aluminum,
it goes straight in, allowing perfectly straight holes.
It sounds like a great way to make these holes. But what's the catch?
Will it work? I have plenty of high-current DC available (as any EVer will
:-) But what kind of current and voltage should be used? Has anyone tried
anything like this?
--
The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.
-- Harlan Ellison
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
We have been told on this list that if you drive a car with a heavy
rear/front ratio, it will oversteer and be dangerous.
If you drive a car towing a loaded trailer, it is manageable.
What are the differences between towing and non-towing with respect to the
weight ratio and stability?
Would a heavy rear car perform worse than if the same weight was towed?
This applies to EV's with towed range extenders.
BoyntonStu
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Don,
Have you considered having 2 milled plates that come together with a gasket
(or epoxy)?
BoyntonStu
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Don Cameron
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 9:43 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Metal cutting saws.. was Plasma Cutter
Lee, post a note on www.practicalmachinist.com forum. This group is very
active and includes a large number of expert machinists. You may want to
indicate if you have access to a mill, drill press and or lathe.
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lee Hart
Sent: September 16, 2005 11:28 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Metal cutting saws.. was Plasma Cutter
On a related note: I have a 8" x 12" x 1/2" slab of aluminum that I would
like to use as a water-cooled heatsink. If I could drill a few holes in it
edgewise, I could make a "U" shaped path inside it, and thread the ends for
fittings (and a plug for the 3rd hole that connects the ends of the first
two.
Trouble is, a normal long twist drill bit wanders too much. I think it would
break out the side before I could drill that deep.
One suggest was a mill-end bit, which (I think) means the end is square and
not pointed. But I don't know of one long enough one to drill 10"
deep hole.
Paul Compton suggested an arc discharge cutter. Basically, you "drill"
with a carbon rod and high-current DC power supply. Push the rod close to
the aluminum, strike an arc to burn off a chunk, back off the rod to clear
the debris, and repeat. Since the rod never actually touches the aluminum,
it goes straight in, allowing perfectly straight holes.
It sounds like a great way to make these holes. But what's the catch?
Will it work? I have plenty of high-current DC available (as any EVer will
:-) But what kind of current and voltage should be used? Has anyone tried
anything like this?
--
The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.
-- Harlan Ellison
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I pay MORE to insure my motorcycle than I do my car. Most states require
motorcycles to be insured if driven in that state (Florida is the only
exception I know of) no matter where they are registered. If you take your
uninsured motorcycle out of state and get caught, you could find it
impounded until you get insurance, and may incur a hefty fine as well.
Dave Davidson
1993 Dodge TEVan
From: "Stu or Jan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: Cheap, light taildragger (was "Re: Rear wheel
recommendations")
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 15:19:43 -0400
A major cost of vehicle ownership is insurance.
A fellow that I know saved $2,800 in auto insurance for his daughter after
converting his automobile to a 'motorcycle'.
How many years of insurance cost does it take to convert a 4 wheeler to a 3
wheeler.
In addition, the rear wheel could be powered by a motor and you would have
an 'instant' hybrid.
Run the ICE for A/C PS etc at idle, use the motor for short trips. If you
need more speed or more distance, you have it built in.
BoyntonStu
-
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I spent years drilling long lines edgewise thru plates, it is how we put
cooling water in Plastic injection molds. It was not uncommon to put
18and 24" long holes withing 1/8 inch of e-pin holes 12" away.
I have also ran an EDM and long deep holes are their worst application!
The "chips" can't clear and spark thru causing the servo to back up a
lot. Only thing worse is to try and burn a cone.
If you are drilling the 8" direction, It could be put in the vice on a
mill and use a center drill and make sure to let it dwell a sec before
applying force. If this initial starting is off it will begin the walk
through all the following steps. A drill trys to follow the average of
what is there always pusihing itself to the center an endmill punching
like that will wobble the hole oversize ( but I have used the endmill
trick for corrections and crossing angled intersections )
After the starting holes are drilled to the max 5" depth of mill travel
and up to the finish size, replaceing with the long drill of size. And
crank the knee up and finish the depth.
IMHO Titanium nitrite is a little bit of a waste on drills, You will be
sharpening the drills many many times during their life and the first
time you sharpen it, the TN is gone. I guess the idea is it helps reduce
side wear? but a drill doeesn't cut on the side, period.
On the longer holes and when I had angles or a series of lines in a row,
I had an adapter that went on the lathe compound that allowed me to
clamp the plate down in place of the tool post. A taper adapter let me
put a drill chuck in the head and the cross slide could be use to drill
a set of parallel holes for a whole mess of cooling. (I learned to take
a mag base and stick an indicator on the plate to let me know if it moved)
Use HSS drills. On aluminum, soapy water actually works pretty well( I
have even used 409), Main thing is to keep the chips clear and make sure
the drill is sharpened with an equal length point, relieved for speed,
standard 135 degree point for more accuracy, changing hole size and
breaking thru crossholes. As the hole gets deeper the technique I use
is to keep the cutting part of the action very short. This makes really
short chips that can be "stored" in the longer flights so I don't have
to clear every time I cut. kinda peck,peck,peck,peck, clear. The lathe
makes this really cool, you can clear a 24" deep hole fast on the larger
lathes becasue the compound can be cranked fast. One last trick on the
lathe. It leaves a grease line on the ways whenever you come forward,
this is the point where the drill hits bottom. Nothing ruins your day
more than cranking in fast and hitting the bottom before planned. drills
shatter. Placing a magnet on the ways and letting the compoud push it
forward also works for aluminum as a depth indicator.
And then there is the right way, a gun-drill.
And of course the CPU cooler method, mill from back, oring and a clear
acrylic cover.
As it turns out, I am making a water cooled heatsink today for the vicor.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nice, and simpler. It does depend on having some handshake signals
present at the connector, but that is usually a good assumption. I
wasn't sure I wanted to assume that since I've run into problems with
that once or twice.
What about power for the EVILbus?
At 01:52 AM 9/17/2005, Otmar wrote:
I also have a circuit that came from Lee Hart.
http://www.cafeelectric.com/temp/Dongle1.0.pdf
I sell them fully assembled for $25 (I think). Probably could sell
just PCB's too if that was preferred. This circuit works on many
computers but may require a extra supply on those with weak RS-232 ports.
Here is a picture of some of them assembled.
http://www.cafeelectric.com/temp/DonglePic1.JPG
I have not put them on the website since there only seem to be a few
of us doing EVIL development at this time.
I also have a low resolution 6 battery monitor board good for 12V
modules, but no finished software for it yet.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It must be an idea who's time has come. I too am producing and EV
focused podcast that will air in a week or two. Our format is a weekly,
hour long program that covers news, new products, events, commentary,
and humor.
We just finished getting the studio built and we just finished receiving
the last of our audio gear and are doing test recordings to work out the
accoustic bugs.
I'll post URLs when we go live shortly.
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Has any one used any of the Mercedes electrical vacuum pumps? They are used for
door locking, etc. Many models for their different lines. Made by Bosch. Might
be quiet because they usually live in the passenger compartment. Any chance
they wouldn't be up to the challenge, not enough capacity? Maybe just use a
larger reservoir?
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Google for EDM, electro-discharge machining. The average current
isn't high but the peak current must be. A capacitor discharge is
necessary. Lindsay Books sells a pamphlet on making a tap
disintegrator (to machine out broken taps) for a couple of bux.
EDM would be relatively slow for that application. What you need is a
rifling or gun bore drill. This is a drill that is designed to drill
long deep holes. I've never tried to use one handheld but I have in a
simple ChiCom drill press.
One key step is to drill a small pilot hole first to guide the larger
one. Another key in Aluminum is to use ethylene glycol as the cutting
fluid. You could buy the rather expensive Tap-matic fluid for
aluminum or just use anti-freeze.
Drill the pilot hole slowly and with light pressure to keep the drill
from wandering. Once the path is established, the larger drill will
proceed rapidly.
I'd drill two holes along the long axis and then one cross hole from
the side to the far hole. The two extra holes can be easily plugged
by driving ball bearings in with a hammer or better, a press. Or they
can be tapped for pipe plugs.
I built my first EDM "machine" many years ago from an article in
Popular Mechanics. My power supply was a hefty bench supply capable
of up to 90 volts and a large, several thousand microfarad
electrolytic cap. My "tool" was a carbon rod from a dry cell. EDM
will closely duplicate the shape of the tool so it can be carved to
make random shaped holes. Tungsten welding rod works well. Even
steel wire, though it doesn't last so long. The polarity determines
which side gets machined.
The PM article used kerosene for the work fluid but any reasonably
non-conducting fluid will work. The computer-driven machines I've
worked with all used deionized water. With larger tools, fluid is
pumped through holes in the sides of the tool to help flush the
debris.
The work is submerged in the fluid and the tool slowly fed in until a
sputtering rapidly repeating cap discharge starts. The feed rate is
controlled to maintain the smoothest and fastest sputter rate. A
sizzle is best. Hard material actually machines faster than soft. I
use a drill press as the tool feed in my shop. Never had much luck
hand feeding.
Cap size and voltage are other tuning tools. I don't know any rules
of thumb. I just adjust mine until it cuts smoothly and reasonably
fast.
John
On Fri, 16 Sep 2005 11:27:30 -0700, Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>On a related note: I have a 8" x 12" x 1/2" slab of aluminum that I
>would like to use as a water-cooled heatsink. If I could drill a few
>holes in it edgewise, I could make a "U" shaped path inside it, and
>thread the ends for fittings (and a plug for the 3rd hole that connects
>the ends of the first two.
>
>Trouble is, a normal long twist drill bit wanders too much. I think it
>would break out the side before I could drill that deep.
>
>One suggest was a mill-end bit, which (I think) means the end is square
>and not pointed. But I don't know of one long enough one to drill 10"
>deep hole.
>
>Paul Compton suggested an arc discharge cutter. Basically, you "drill"
>with a carbon rod and high-current DC power supply. Push the rod close
>to the aluminum, strike an arc to burn off a chunk, back off the rod to
>clear the debris, and repeat. Since the rod never actually touches the
>aluminum, it goes straight in, allowing perfectly straight holes.
>
>It sounds like a great way to make these holes. But what's the catch?
>Will it work? I have plenty of high-current DC available (as any EVer
>will :-) But what kind of current and voltage should be used? Has anyone
>tried anything like this?
>--
>The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.
> -- Harlan Ellison
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The other issue is what is considered a Motorcycle in your State and if your
insurer will even insure it. In Texas someone on a Vortex list end up selling
his 3 wheeler out of state because he could not get insurance by local
insurance and the county he was in would not allow out of state insurance. So
to sum it up he could register it but only if he had insurance and he could not
get insurance so Texas would not register it. So be sure to check with you
Motor Vehicle Department requirement before modifying and verify with your
insurance agent before modifying.
Dave Davidson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I pay MORE to insure my motorcycle
than I do my car. Most states require
motorcycles to be insured if driven in that state (Florida is the only
exception I know of) no matter where they are registered. If you take your
uninsured motorcycle out of state and get caught, you could find it
impounded until you get insurance, and may incur a hefty fine as well.
Dave Davidson
1993 Dodge TEVan
>From: "Stu or Jan"
>Reply-To: [email protected]
>To:
>Subject: RE: Cheap, light taildragger (was "Re: Rear wheel
>recommendations")
>Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 15:19:43 -0400
>
>A major cost of vehicle ownership is insurance.
>
>A fellow that I know saved $2,800 in auto insurance for his daughter after
>converting his automobile to a 'motorcycle'.
>
>How many years of insurance cost does it take to convert a 4 wheeler to a 3
>wheeler.
>
>In addition, the rear wheel could be powered by a motor and you would have
>an 'instant' hybrid.
>
>Run the ICE for A/C PS etc at idle, use the motor for short trips. If you
>need more speed or more distance, you have it built in.
>
>BoyntonStu
>
>-
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:19 PM 9/16/2005, Danny Miller wrote:
You wouldn't need the 232 chip if you're interfacing with a
controller or most non-computer processors.
Just making sure it works with all RS232 devices. Even those that
don't provide handshake signals. (See Otmars version)
R1 and T1 appear unnecessary. The gain is set by R3/R4 and the opto
(not too far from unity), the ADM202 doesn't require a lot of current.
Just following Lee's circuit. He usually has reasons for these things.
R2IN need not be hooked to R1IN, setting it to gnd or +5v will lower
the power.
Yeah, I was just making my Schematic program happy. Whoever added
the ADM202 part to the library made the R2IN a mandatory
connection. I need to modify the library.
D1 appears to be a protection diode for CNY17's LED, but if so it's
best to put it in parallel in reverse with the diode.
What's the explanation of this circuit? I'm not getting some of the
schematic; TX doesn't seem to be able to drive anything.
Am I correct in guessing that the principle is to have the RX and TX
combined and the software reads to bus to decide when it's
transmitting and when it's receiving? And someone is supposed to
drive the bus to 1 and the transmit is an open collector
strategy? I know the open collector is really handy for operating
without a power supply but it's the last thing you'd want to do if
you want to avoid noise.
What baud rate and cable length is intended?
See all the other EVILbus comments that have preceded this.
Or look at the description at
http://aaron.birenboim.com/EV/misc/EVilBusMirror.html
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Towed weight has it's own suspension and weight capability, where as you
taildragger is reducing the capability in half
stu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:We have been told on this list that if you drive
a car with a heavy
rear/front ratio, it will oversteer and be dangerous.
If you drive a car towing a loaded trailer, it is manageable.
What are the differences between towing and non-towing with respect to the
weight ratio and stability?
Would a heavy rear car perform worse than if the same weight was towed?
This applies to EV's with towed range extenders.
BoyntonStu
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Rich
Heres what I like and dislike about Baldor motors. I dont want to get any
hate mail but I have called them Baldorks for years, hehehehe. Just about
every thing design wise makes them hard for me (harder for you to work on).
Again Im not trying to rag about them but Id rather you have an informed base
before you proceed. Here are some of the things that I find un-appealing.
First as I noted they have a small brush, with small shunt leads. Most if you
look you should see this is that they have this huge bronze side to the brush
holder. They then attach this very thin brass hoop that in most cases does not
even tie to the other side of the holder edge. This holder is so fail that if
you pull the brush out and allow the spring to hit it, the spring will tweak
the holder out of shape. The fields are stator wound (more like AC) and are
not formed coil. If you get a short or a ground in your fields they will have
to be rewound. As for formed coil motors I (or you) !
could
loosen the bolts, remove the coil and patch the insulation for a much more
inexpensive repair. Many Baldor motors have cables running out from the guts,
which again makes it hard to fish these out (if they run through the CE plate)
to do a simple bearing change. These are just rules of thumb from what Ive
seen and may not all apply to your motor. Comparing the same frame size of the
6.7 Prestolite and GEs I find that the commentation abilities of the Balder
fall way short.
Lets take a motor I am repairing for Mark Mongillo as an example. He has a 36
/ 48 volt 7 ¼ Prestolite #MTA-4001 and it is a compound wound motor (2 shunt
coils and 2 strap or main coils) which I thought I read here couldnt be used,
hmmm.
The brush surface area has 8 brushes with around 1 X 5/8 each, with dual
approx. # 10 shunt leads. Compare that to yours to see what your motor is
sporting. Next he is using this motor to run a 1959 Fiat, (at 120 volts) which
is a pretty small car. Even with a bigger motor than the one you have he is
infamous for running his motor at a very hot temp. His brush shunts tend to
sit just under the verge of cooking. He has 2 of these motors and in fact has
been using them (stealing parts as needed from the 2nd) for over 5 years now
though.
As to the plus side, you will be able to adjust the brush ring for the best
(least arc) timing. Just loosen the screws from the end of the CE plate and
adjust as needed to remove arc and to set to lowest amps when under load. They
are a very smooth running motor that is I believe very efficient. I would
myself opt for another motor of a larger size for a full size conversion. That
motor as someone posted would make a really nice smaller conversion drive
motor. Hope this helps, as I would hate to see you put time and money into
something that either would burn up or end up with poor abilities.
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
Rich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Jim
The Baldor Motor is 10 inches long and 6.5 inches wide with a 7/8 16 spline
shaft. Thanks for the reply..
Rich
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Husted"
To:
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 2:10 AM
Subject: Re: baldor motor
> Baldors seem to me to have small brushes compaired to ADC and Prestolites
> designs. I've always found the parts harder to find with a bit more bite on
> costs. On a pro side it should have a variable time brush ring built in. My
> feeling is you might have brush issues. What size, diameter is this?
>
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
> Rich wrote:
> what do you folks think a baldor forklift 2 HP 36 volt 53 amp 2800 rpm motor
> would do in a volkswagen beetle with gears?
> Rich
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! for Good
> Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.25/102 - Release Date: 9/14/2005
>
>
__________________________________________________
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--- Begin Message ---
On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 06:57:50 +0000, Jeff Shanab
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>IMHO Titanium nitrite is a little bit of a waste on drills, You will be
>sharpening the drills many many times during their life and the first
>time you sharpen it, the TN is gone. I guess the idea is it helps reduce
>side wear? but a drill doeesn't cut on the side, period.
Here's my most favorable experience with TiN. I made the burner plate
for my neon ribbon burner by drilling a hunk of 1/2" cold rolled:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/files/neon/Shop%20Tools/ribbon_burner/photo_3.jpg
Spent most of a weekend at the drill press. I bought an envelope of
Nicholson 10 TiN drill bits from the local jobber, thinking I'd need
at least that many. Using Trichlor for the cutting fluid (miracle
stuff on steel), the first bit did the whole job. All those several
hundred holes and still as sharp as when I started. Amazing.
I've had much less success with non-quality ChiCom made bits so one
can say that all TiN isn't the same.
I have a Drill Doctor (great little machine) that I used to use a lot.
I haven't touched it since I bought my first set of quality TiN bits.
I doubt that I'll even bother sharpening them when they get dull. The
life is such that I'll probably just toss 'em and buy a new set in a
few years. The price difference is now minor so it's probably not
worth my time to start sharpening them.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
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I really like it though I don't really have a lot to offer. I also have no idea
how much something like this would/should cost. I'm thinking about two parralel
packs of 72 volt orbitals when I find a really nice rabbit, cabriolet, or
rabbit p/u to transfer all of my parts into.
John Shelton
Subject:
AIR Lab's Battery Early Warning System (was RE: Help on BMS Pricing)
Date:
9/16/2005 9:28:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From:
Edward Ang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
[email protected]
I got some very good inputs from this list regarding
the pricing of the system. I was expecting more
responds though. This would help me to make my
decision on whether it makes sense to take the risk
and bring this system to the market.
It is not clear from the previous PDF file how the
system work. And, I did it on purpose to find out
what you think the system should do. I updated the
PDF file and also made a 2-min video clip showing how
it works in our test vehicle.
I hope to get more respond this time.
http://airlabcorp.com/EWS/EWS_Sheet.pdf
http://airlabcorp.com/EWS/EWSDemo.wmv
Thank you.
Ed Ang
AIR Lab Corp.
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--- Begin Message ---
Ricky Suiter wrote:
> Insight tires are Bridgestone Potenza RE92 165/65/14, Prius Tires were the
> same in 175/65/14. To my understanding these are the only two tires in the
> Potenza RE92 Series which are LRR (and made in Japan). If you look at the
> tire weights specifically they are somewhat lower for their size compared to
> the rest of the line.
How do they make them so light weight?
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/tireselector/dpp/sizespecs.asp?passproductid=8
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The only mention of "low rolling resistance" I could find on their site:
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/news/us_en/c_30326a.html
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I would run them at the full 55 psi and it just seems to me that a narrower
tire at higher psi would have less rolling resistance. How wrong am I?
John
RE: LRR Tires Continued
Date:
9/16/2005 11:03:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From:
"Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
[email protected]
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Reply-To: [email protected]
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: LRR Tires Continued
>Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 20:50:43 -0400
>
>OK, I currently have 215/65 15 on my truck. I want to switch to Michelin
>Agilis tires (205/65 15) which are narrower and can be pumped up to 55 psi.
>According to the tire calculator the new tires will run 2% too fast, at 60
>mph my speedo will read 58.8 mph.
I think you mean that at 58.8 MPH the speedo will read 60. Right? If the
new tires are smaller, the speedo will think you are going faster than you
really are.
Questions:
>
>Will this affect my antilock braking system?
Probably not - it's not much of a diameter change.
>
>What kind of gains do most of you think I would see with these tires?
Why do you think you these tires will be lower rolling resistance than the
ones you had? Is it because or the tire model?
Will you run at higher pressure?
There is no evidence ( that I know of) that a smaller tire will give you
lower rolling resistance.
>
>If not these, then what would you guys recommend for my truck?
Sorry - I don't have any recommendations.
Phil Marino
>
>Thanks.
>
>John David
>
>P.S. Is Seth from Brunswick still on this list? I sent him an e-mail a few
>months ago but never heard from him.
>
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--- Begin Message ---
I have one of each. the russco is a pfc and completely
adjustable within its general limits the delta q is a
one purpose charger designed to do a single
voltage in a specific algorythm. fast and smart for
its purpose but un adjustable. what you get is what
you get
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> How does the Delta Q compare the Russco Charger. I
> the think the Russco is
> a PFC. I don't know about the Delta Q. LR........
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stefano Landi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 12:58 PM
> Subject: Re: Highway capable conversion on a budget?
>
>
> > Hey guys,
> >
> > I think I wrote the book on that budget-minded EV
> thing. So far my project
> > including the donor car has cost me $1,350 CDN, so
> about $1K USD. Here is
> > my
> > shopping list
> >
> > Alltrax 7245 for $525 USD (Cloud Electric)
> > Delta Q charger $500 USD
> > Adapter (building myself)
> > hub (buying locally and adapting it to my flywheel
> as per
> > grassrootsev.com<http://grassrootsev.com>video)
> > meters, cables and such $200 USD
> >
> > so my budget for my EV project is about $4K CDN,
> it may be difficult, but
> > this is my goal and my expectations for
> performance are in keeping with
> > this
> > budget.
> >
> > You can see the progress on my website
> http://fest-ev-a.slandi.net
> >
> > regards,
> >
> > Stefano
> > http://fest-ev-a.slandi.net
> >
> > On 9/16/05, Robert Chew
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi John,
> >>
> >> Me myself am doing the cheapest conversion i can
> get my hands on. I am
> >> also
> >> a uni student, in second last year doing this
> conversion project as my
> >> thesis so i know the meaning of BUDGET!!.
> >>
> >> I have also tried to use a forklift motor, gcart
> motors etc. but at the
> >> end
> >> of a day you can't really specify a conversion
> based on cost. If you are
> >> going to design something that is basically SLOW
> and cost 3000 then so be
> >> it. There will be a point in time where you would
> want to upgrade, add
> >> more
> >> stuff in, and then there is where its going to
> cost you more. Because,
> >> new
> >> motor, new adapter plate, new controller, new
> batteries, new mounts. It
> >> almost as if its going from square one. I too
> work part time, and i made
> >> up
> >> my mind to convert my Fiat126 into something with
> the minimal performance
> >> using 6.7Inch, alltrax, trojan SCS225 which i
> know some of you out there
> >> will kill me for! and also the wiring and
> installation i do myself. That
> >> already cost me 4K aussie dollars and then i need
> to add some more for
> >> batteries and controller and also suspension
> upgrade, registration,
> >> mechanical work. Its bout costing me 6-7K and
> thats a bare minimal slow,
> >> low
> >> range vehicle. However, the parts i use are new.
> if you can get free and
> >> extremely cheap parts, then go for it. But over
> here the market is small
> >> and
> >> not many second hand parts like motors and
> controller.
> >>
> >> But anyway i wish you all the best. And yeah
> don't go partying for a
> >> couple
> >> weekends and you'd be suprised how much money
> that can save you,, and
> >> could
> >> even buy you a controller etc..
> >>
> >> Cheers
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
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John and Jeff,
The main reason I recommended the TN drill to Lee is that I have found (at
least from my experiances) that the TN coating seems to stay "cleaner" on
the cutting flanks and there is less tendency to get an aluminum chip or
slag on the cutting edge that will make the drill wander like it has a dull
fluke. I am also assuming that at the most Lee has access to a decent drill
press and vice. Hmm, Lee considering how much you do with the BEST program
and other mentoring I wonder if there is not an untapped resource for you,
IE: a high school machine shop? Maybe you could get a little time with one
of the instructors and get the use of the machinery during a lull? Also some
have talked about just milling out the pathways and gluing/bolting the
heatsink together? This might be an alternate solution. You could do a
pretty good job with a carbide router bit in a wood router, make 2 mirror
image halves and then assemble with a thin coating of "Kawasaki Bond". Its a
grey thin adhesive sealant that will resist the heat just fine. Originally
sourced from Kawasaki dealer (its used in place of a gasket between the case
halves) we used to use it for sealing the case halves of HP VW engines, 1/2
VW AC conversions and I even used it on a methanol burning Go Ped engine I
built. Just a very thin layer (no squeezout) between halves and 4 properly
placed thru bolts (not at the edges), then thread the inlet and outlet once
it is cured. Darn, now you got me going on this, now I might have to play
with a budget heatsink project. BTW, I assume air to air isn't good enough?
I have a bunch of AC equipment that I will be salvaging out in the next
month or so that I picked up specifically for the interesting heatsinks.
TTYL David.
David Chapman
Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque
http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 8:09 AM
Subject: Re: Drilling long holes, was Metal Cutting saws...
On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 06:57:50 +0000, Jeff Shanab
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
IMHO Titanium nitrite is a little bit of a waste on drills, You will be
sharpening the drills many many times during their life and the first
time you sharpen it, the TN is gone. I guess the idea is it helps reduce
side wear? but a drill doeesn't cut on the side, period.
Here's my most favorable experience with TiN. I made the burner plate
for my neon ribbon burner by drilling a hunk of 1/2" cold rolled:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/files/neon/Shop%20Tools/ribbon_burner/photo_3.jpg
Spent most of a weekend at the drill press. I bought an envelope of
Nicholson 10 TiN drill bits from the local jobber, thinking I'd need
at least that many. Using Trichlor for the cutting fluid (miracle
stuff on steel), the first bit did the whole job. All those several
hundred holes and still as sharp as when I started. Amazing.
I've had much less success with non-quality ChiCom made bits so one
can say that all TiN isn't the same.
I have a Drill Doctor (great little machine) that I used to use a lot.
I haven't touched it since I bought my first set of quality TiN bits.
I doubt that I'll even bother sharpening them when they get dull. The
life is such that I'll probably just toss 'em and buy a new set in a
few years. The price difference is now minor so it's probably not
worth my time to start sharpening them.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
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Ryan Stotts wrote:
Ricky Suiter wrote:
Insight tires are Bridgestone Potenza RE92 165/65/14, Prius Tires were the same in 175/65/14. To my understanding these are the only two tires in the Potenza RE92 Series which are LRR (and made in Japan). If you look at the tire weights specifically they are somewhat lower for their size compared to the rest of the line.
How do they make them so light weight?
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/tireselector/dpp/sizespecs.asp?passproductid=8
If you examine the table you'll see that weight seems to correlate
pretty well with the tire width, and these are thin tires.
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
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Lee,
I built a water-cooled heatsink for a Zapi controller I used to use.
Some details are on my web page at
http://www.aracnet.com/~rmerwin/prizm/heatsink.html
A slab of aluminum 6" X 13" X 1.25" flat bar stock. I drilled four 1/2"
holes the long way using a 18" 1/2" drill bit and a Shop Smith. It took
about 20 minutes per hole. I had to back the bit out frequently to put
oil on and remove the shavings.
I used a smaller drill bit to connect the ends, tapped the openings for
pipe threads, then used plugs or 1/2" barb fittings to close the holes.
The pictures show the first iteration where I had planned on the water
entering the heatsink on one end, flowing through the four long channels
and leaving the other end. The water ended up flowing through just one
channel, so I rearranged the plugs and barb fittings to get a serpentine
flow.
I still have this heatsink if you're interested in it.
Ralph
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Lee Hart
> Sent: September 16, 2005 11:28 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Metal cutting saws.. was Plasma Cutter
>
> On a related note: I have a 8" x 12" x 1/2" slab of aluminum that I would
> like to use as a water-cooled heatsink. If I could drill a few holes in it
> edgewise, I could make a "U" shaped path inside it, and thread the ends for
> fittings (and a plug for the 3rd hole that connects the ends of the first
> two.
>
> Trouble is, a normal long twist drill bit wanders too much. I think it would
> break out the side before I could drill that deep.
>
> One suggest was a mill-end bit, which (I think) means the end is square and
> not pointed. But I don't know of one long enough one to drill 10"
> deep hole.
>
> Paul Compton suggested an arc discharge cutter. Basically, you "drill"
> with a carbon rod and high-current DC power supply. Push the rod close to
> the aluminum, strike an arc to burn off a chunk, back off the rod to clear
> the debris, and repeat. Since the rod never actually touches the aluminum,
> it goes straight in, allowing perfectly straight holes.
>
> It sounds like a great way to make these holes. But what's the catch?
> Will it work? I have plenty of high-current DC available (as any EVer will
> :-) But what kind of current and voltage should be used? Has anyone tried
> anything like this?
> --
> The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.
> -- Harlan Ellison
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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