EV Digest 4795
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions
by "John Luck Home" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Thoughts/questions on getting an inverter built
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: SOC
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Those Allbright contactors
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Measuring the current
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Crimp versus solder
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Cable Crimping Tools
by "Richard Rau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: My S-10 again - ABS
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Cable Crimping Tools
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Cable Crimping Tools
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: OT: Watch yourself
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Measuring the current
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Cable Crimping Tools
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Cable Crimping Tools
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Those Allbright contactors
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: Useful Information to Share
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: The "other" Solectria Sunrise, an' Stuff.
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Hammer Crimper
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Cable Crimping Tools
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Those Allbright contactors
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
24) Re: Those Allbright contactors
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: We got the Sunrise !!!
by Mike Ellis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: We got the Sunrise !!!
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Meggers/low resistance, was: RE: Cable Crimping Tools
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Meggers/low resistance, was: RE: Cable Crimping Tools
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Fw: Bay Guardian article/SF Bay Area EV Converters chime in.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) DLS-55 ready to install.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) RE: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed
by "djsharpe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: Crimp versus solder
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I think it will be one of the LEM hall effect devices that need 5v supply
and will read 0 to 400 amps with 0.5% accuracy - (plenty good enough for me)
and they output a proportional voltage that I will scale and apply to a
small 50 - 0 - 50 uAmmeter.
Hopefully I will be able to see current drawn and regen current too. They
are about £12 ($20) for the device and a little time mounting on a board and
then in a small box with a big hole in it. Only snag is I have to "unmake"
one of my cables then pass it through the device then remake the connection
onto the battery.
Next thing is the temp sensor(s) and working out the switching for my
voltmeter to be able to monitor 36 x 6volt batteries !!! - maybe I should
join the other place and listen to what they have to say about a EV data bus
for this info.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions
> On Wed, 5 Oct 2005 09:12:28 +0100, "John Luck Home"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >Thanks to all who have pointed me towards the Hall effect devices for
> >measuring DC current without breaking into a circuit.
> >
> >Products from A.F Bell, LEM, HEME and Honeywell.
> >
>
> F.W. Bell (hope that's who you mean) makes among the best. If you
> don't mind going up a step in cost, flux gate based instruments are
> generally more stable than Hall effect.
>
> If you're just needing a clamp-on instrument, several of the usual
> test equipment suspects make 'em. Fluke has one that's OK for a
> little over $100. I have one of those. Its accuracy is adequate but
> one has to degauss it fairly frequently when used in DC. The Bell
> instrument doesn't have that problem.
>
> John
> ---
> John De Armond
> See my website for my current email address
> http://www.johngsbbq.com
> Cleveland, Occupied TN
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/118 - Release Date: 03/10/2005
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thank you for the link Charles. Unfortunately there is
no charging requirement data in there.
Charles Whalen wrote:
The only Ovonic/Cobasys BEV NiMH battery I'm aware of in current production
is the following, but it's 12V, not 13.2V, and has a 85Ah capacity (@ C/3):
http://www.cobasys.com/pdf/transportation/Series9500/Series_9500_Brochure.html
Charles
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ryan Stotts wrote:
Think about if you and I were in separate cars of the same models and
weight. The only difference being that my motor goes to 10,000 rpm
and yours only to 5,000 rpm. You hit 5 grand and are shifting into
second and I'm still wrapping out that low gear. I'm getting double
the pull from each gear you are and also think about how fast things
are turning at 10,000rpm vs's 5,000rpm..
Who's going to win this imaginary race?
If he shifts on the taller gear (say 2x) and thus drop DC motor
RPM so that he gain *more than 2x* on the shaft, he is going to
win this imaginary race vs AC driven car. Whether this will hapen,
depends on many things.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
STEVE CLUNN wrote:
No cooling for the zilla ! I've had my water pump stop working a few
times and am happy to say the zilla cut back on the power and didn't
blow it top , this sounds like want you had happen, the problem with
my first water pump set up was the 12 to 120v inverter .
The 12v battery voltage dipped and the inverter shut its self off. I'm
using a 12v electric fuel pump now .
Is there any concern about corrosion when using water in a fuel pump?
What pump did you end up using?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just got my portion of the Allbright contactor order (Thanks so
much, Rick, for coordinating the buy).
These are the ones with the 56 volt coils. Fortunately these are
trivially easy to rewind for 12 volts. I'll have some info available
on my web site in a day or two.
If anyone else needs the rewinding done, I'll do one for $20 plus
shipping, a little less for multiple coils. Contact me off-list if
you're interested.
Looking at this contactor disassembled, it just dawned on me that the
contact assembly minus the solenoid would make a great non-electric
emergency disconnect. I'll post some photos on that too in a couple
of days.
Now I have a question. Someone told me that these can be equipped
with permanent magnet blowouts. Anyone have any info or photos of
where the magnets go?
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Try Rapid or Farnell.
Victor
John Luck Home wrote:
Thanks to all who have pointed me towards the Hall effect devices for
measuring DC current without breaking into a circuit.
Products from A.F Bell, LEM, HEME and Honeywell.
Only problem now is to find someone in the UK who carries these items !!!
Thanks All
John
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
??
The current always flows from a source with larger voltage
into to a passive load (or into a source with smaller voltage).
Not to open a can of warms, define "the current flow"
Is is electrons flow or accepted convention of holes flowing
from more positive potentiol point to a less positive point?
Victor
Mark Hanson wrote:
And another question I've got is how do you measure *directional* AC current
flowing into or out of a load like charging your EV from an AC induction
windmill? Probably would need a secondary volt coil and do a phase
differential comparison between the amps & volts like a wattmeter?
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does it say if the code applies to an OEM manufactured vehicles or
home built hobby ones too?
Next thing NEC will tell me which wiring to use in my RC hobby plane.
In this sense an RC hobby plane is no different than an EV hobby car,
whether used in public places or not.
You're not allowed to sell to public unconforming hardware.
But I'm not sure about building and using personally.
Is it specifically spelled out in NEC? If not, they have no case.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Before everyone gets all wound up, the NEC Article 625 is titled "Electric
Vehicle Charging System", and 625.1 Scope states "The provisions of this
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The HV system in my Honda will be able to deliver plenty of current when
asked, and when I make my cables I want to use an effective means of
mechanically crimping the lugs. I have ruled out hammer-crimpers and am
leaning toward high leverage hex crimpers. (The appearance of the final
crimp is important to me)
MY QUESTION IS- Does anyone know where I can find a set of 'guided' hex
dies, 2/0, designed for use on a hydraulic press?? If it exists, it may not
cost any more than the long handled manual type, and I'd love to let the
hydraulics do the grunting.
Thanks, Richard
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Farver wrote:
Very few EV conversions can operate without some form of vacuum storage
tank. The tried and true method is a 8-12" length of 4" diameter
Schedule 40 PVC with endcaps and tapped for a fitting. The PVC should
be painted, both so it looks better and to protect the plastic from UV.
With an 8" tank you will get several brake applications before the pump
will need to cycle.
My pump cycle about every second actuation, but I don't hear it anyway,
and I don't care. It is designed to do it. A booster tank will reduce
cycling, but as far as braking goes you won't feel any difference
(unless your system spends more vac per actuation than the pump can
produce and keep up).
Your upper vacuum limit seems low. Most EVers are running close to
27-29", IIRC. (I use the metricmind pump with the built in switch so I
have no idea what it is set to.)
It is set to the standard vac level prodiced by ICE -
it will cycle from 18 to 20 inches Hg:
http://www.metricmind.com/line_art/pump_plot.gif
Mark
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
my solution a cheap 2 tons (4500lbs) car lifting jack, after simple
modification, make the best quality/price hydraulic crimper :^)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36119
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: Cable Crimping Tools
> On Wed, 05 Oct 2005 08:26:34 -0700, Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
> >Well, my theory is that the acetylene is so much hotter than the
> >propane, you spend less time spreading heat where you don't need it.
> >But I'm probably waaaay off.
>
> True. But the major problem I have with an acetylene torch is if I'm
> not paying close attention, it is trivially easy to melt or burn a
> spot on the lug. A lower intensity torch makes the paying attention
> part much less critical :-)
> >
> >Has anyone tried using one of those anti-wire-wicking things that clamp
> >around the wire? Essentially a heat sink with a wire-sized hole in it
...
>
> Yes, works but a wet rag twisted tightly around the cable works at
> least as well and costs nothing.
>
> >
> >David Roden wrote:
> >
> >>On 4 Oct 2005 at 7:48, Eric Poulsen wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>I think an
> >>>oxy/acet torch would work well, with a small tip.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>I've done this with so-so success using a propane torch. It's the
dickens
> >>to avoid wicking solder up the wire.
> >>
> >>
> >>David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> >>EV List Assistant Administrator
> >>
> >>= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> >>Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
> >>or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
> >>= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> >>Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
> >>send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
> >>= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> ---
> John De Armond
> See my website for my current email address
> http://www.johngsbbq.com
> Cleveland, Occupied TN
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roland Wiench wrote:
> What will happen if we, the EV builders and designers, do not use
> PROPER approved established building and safety procedures that is
> already outline, that more restrictions and wiring methods shall
> be place on the EV.
>
> We now have a Electric Vehicle NEC Article 625 that we did not have
> before. Every time that some one has a accident, fire, explosion,
> there is a new article added.
I agree with you in principle, Roland. However, NEC Article 625 was
*not* created to address actual accidents. It was sponsored by the auto
companies to *prevent* production of EVs by setting standards all but
impossible to meet.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) wrote:
> If you are testing a metal to metal connection and get resistance
> that is not good. We use [a megger] to test static wics and other
> conductors all the time in the military. You crank em up and make
> sure that they are reading zero ohms.
The trouble is, a megger reads "0" ohms for anything below 1 ohm. So
does a standard multimeter. They can only tell you that a connection
exists; they can't tell you how good it is.
A high current connection needs to have a resistance less than a few
*thousandths* of an ohm! Suppose it needs to carry 100 amps; if it has
0.001 ohm of resistance, it produces P = I^2 x R = 100 x 100 x 0.001 =
10 watts of heat; it will get warm, but work. The voltage drop across
the connection will be V = I x R = 100 x 0.001 = 0.1 volts. This is a
"good" connection.
Now suppose it has 0.01 ohm of resistance; it produces 100 watts of
heat; as much as a 100 watt light bulb! Do this for more than a minute
and it will burn up! This connection also has a voltage drop of 1 volt;
it's wasting a significant fraction of your power!
You measure connection resistance with a MILLI-ohmmeter, not a megger.
(MEG-ohmmeter). It measures these sub-ohm resistances by running a
modestly high current thru them, and measuring the voltage drop with a
sensitive meter.
For hobby use, you can make one. Here is the circuit (view with a fixed
width font):
_____________________ ___________________
| || || | | |
_|_ 12v car || || | | < 10 ohm
/ \ headlight | \/ | | --->< pot
\___/ large | o| | | < (calibrate)
| alligator | /\ | | |
| clip |> <| | |
/ on/off |> <| | meter +_|_
+ | switch | 50mv / \
____|____ | full \___/
| | | scale - |
| 12v | |> <| _|_ |
| battery | |> <| _\_/_ |
| or | large | \/ | | D1 |
| charger | alligator | o| | | schottky |
|_________| clip | /\ | | diode |
| || || | |
- |____________________|| ||_______|__________|
The battery or battery charger provides the source of power. The car
headlight serves as a crude 4amp constant current limiter.
The two large alligator clips connect to the "resistance" to be
measured. They need to be large enough to handle 4 amps, and to clip
onto the size terminals you expect to test. For instance, clip one onto
the battery post itself, and the other to the terminal on that post to
measure the resistance between post and terminal.
The alligator clips need to be modified. Drill out the metal rivet that
holds the two halves together. Replace it with a plastic screw. Use
insulating washers between the metal halves so they do not touch.
Insulate the spring with pieces of wire insulation. Put it all back
together, and check with an ohmmeter to be SURE the two halves of the
clip are not shorted together.
The analog meter should be one that reads "full scale" with 0.1 volts or
less. Typically, any DC meter that reads 1 milliamp or less full-scale
will work, as will the 50mv full-scale meters normally used to measure
the voltage across a shunt, or even a general-purpose analog multimeter
with a current range that reads 1ma or less full-scale.
The schottky diode is there to protect the meter when the alliagator
clips are not connected to something. Its voltage rating is unimportant,
but it should be rated at 10 amps or more. For example, MBR1060 (60v,
10amps), Jameco #301444 $0.63 each.
To use it, clip the two alligator clips onto the connection to be
tested, THEN turn on the power switch. The left sides of the alligator
clips run about 4 amps thru the connection under test. The right sides
of the alligator clips measure the voltage across the connection at this
current. The higher the meter reading, the worse the connection.
To calibrate it, you need a known resistance. A shunt is a good choice
for a precision resistor. For instance, if you have a 50amp 50mv shunt,
its resistance is R = 0.05v / 50a = 0.001 ohm. Either mark the meter's
scale, or adjust the 10-ohm pot to a convenient number. For example, if
you used a meter that is 50 microamps full-scale, you could set the pot
so it reads 1 microamp; then microamps = milliohms (10ua = 10 milliohms
= 0.01 ohm, etc.)
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David Roden wrote:
> Just a reminder: The EV list is a public forum and is archived in
> many places on the web... Anything you say here becomes part of
> your permanent public record.
Mark Twain was quoted as saying, "When I want to ruin a man, I quote
him!"
(The actual story is more interesting. Twain was at a party, where the
editor of a local paper said this. It was in the context that you can
selectively quote anyone to make them look like a fool. Twain reportedly
said, "That's a great line -- I wish I'd said it!" The next day, the
editor wrote in his paper, "Mark Twain said, 'When I want to ruin a man,
I quote him!"
Anyway, be careful what you say -- your words may come back to haunt
you!
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Hanson wrote:
> And another question I've got is how do you measure *directional*
> AC current flowing into or out of a load like charging your EV
> from an AC induction windmill? Probably would need a secondary
> volt coil and do a phase differential comparison between the amps
> & volts like a wattmeter?
Correct. A directional ammeter or wattmeter for AC has two coils; one
for amps, and one for volts.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
other solution use Marine Tinned Battery Boat Cable Wire 1,5$/ft:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4578492541&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RSCC_Pr12_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT
hope this help,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 3:07 PM
> Subject: Re: Cable Crimping Tools
>
>
> > Awhile back ( maybe years ) you ( Lee) talked about tinning the whole
lug
> > with solder , I've done that with a few and even after years of use they
> > still look good ,and clean where a copper lug would have turned color .
I
> > would also think that a thin layer of soft solder would also take the
> shape
> > of the suffuse its being attached to . Yes it dose take a lot longer to
do
> ,
> > Steve clunn
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lee Hart" <
> > > John Luck Home asked:
> > >> Why does everyone crimp these connectors instead of tinning the fine
> > >> stranded welding cable and soldering them into closed end ring
> > >> connectors.
> > >> Isn't this going to give better contact area from cable to lug?
> > >
> > > A perfect soldered connection is just as good as a perfect crimped
> > > connection. However, soldering takes more skill, especially for large
> > > connections. So crimping is more likely to produce a good connection
> when
> > > done by amateurs.
> > > --
> > > Lee Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >
> > >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
other solution use Marine Tinned Battery Boat Cable Wire 1,5$/ft:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4578492541&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RSCC_Pr12_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT
hope this help,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 3:07 PM
Subject: Re: Cable Crimping Tools
> Awhile back ( maybe years ) you ( Lee) talked about tinning the whole lug
> with solder , I've done that with a few and even after years of use they
> still look good ,and clean where a copper lug would have turned color . I
> would also think that a thin layer of soft solder would also take the
shape
> of the suffuse its being attached to . Yes it dose take a lot longer to do
,
> Steve clunn
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee Hart" <
> > John Luck Home asked:
> >> Why does everyone crimp these connectors instead of tinning the fine
> >> stranded welding cable and soldering them into closed end ring
> >> connectors.
> >> Isn't this going to give better contact area from cable to lug?
> >
> > A perfect soldered connection is just as good as a perfect crimped
> > connection. However, soldering takes more skill, especially for large
> > connections. So crimping is more likely to produce a good connection
when
> > done by amateurs.
> > --
> > Lee Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi John and All,
Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I just got my portion of the Allbright contactor order (Thanks so
much, Rick, for coordinating the buy).
These are the ones with the 56 volt coils. Fortunately these are
trivially easy to rewind for 12 volts. I'll have some info available
on my web site in a day or two.
If anyone else needs the rewinding done, I'll do one for $20 plus
shipping, a little less for multiple coils. Contact me off-list if
you're interested.
Looking at this contactor disassembled, it just dawned on me that the
contact assembly minus the solenoid would make a great non-electric
emergency disconnect. I'll post some photos on that too in a couple
of days.
Now I have a question. Someone told me that these can be equipped
with permanent magnet blowouts. Anyone have any info or photos of
where the magnets go?
If they are in the SW family, there are pockets in the terminal
housing on each side of each contact that polarized round mags go in.
Are there anymore of these and what type, model are they, price? The
56vdc coil is fine for me if the rating is enough.
Thanks,
Jerry Dycus
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steve [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 2. Can the controller be run at higher voltages. A friend
> and I checked out my old 007's wiring etc. I believe that
> car had an 84 V card and it ran at 120 V. That is if we
> cross refed the numbers right.
I believe you did not; the controller used in the 120V 007 is rated to
144V max. I don't have my EV-1 literature handy to quote you the
specific controller card model. I think this controller is spec'ed for
84-144V, if I recall correctly. A 96V Omni I once owned had the same
controller.
> They have a high power resistor across two of the terminals
> - one of them card input voltage. I figure that is how
> they did it.
The resistor is about a 2W size, and is not related to operating the
controller at any specific pack voltage. It is a pull up on the
throttle pot input to ensure that the controller will go to 0% duty
cycle in the event of a break in the wiring between the controller and
potbox.
On the 120V 007 I traced the wiring for, the only 'mod' I found related
to the traction pack voltage is the use of a power resistor in series
with the main contactor coil. The GE main contactor has a 108V coil,
and the power resistor keeps the coil from burning up when 120V is
applied to it.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
jerry dycus wrote:
> > I see ZAP got the "sloppy seconds" of Sunrise bodies off eBay
> I sorta let that one get by.
> Wanted the damn door moulds,
> But nothing we can't duplicate ourselves if nessasary as we have
> door skins and the door sills in the body we can make new molds from. I
> hadn't even known there were door molds until after I bought the first one.
> And the molds don't even fit the 2nd body !!
You should try and purchase or trade for those door molds from Zap.
Maybe see if they want to buy any Freedom EV's to distribute in CA?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Eric Poulsen wrote:
> Is this what everyone is referring to?
>
> http://www.scosche.com/CatalogImages/image.aspx/T2.jpg
Yes, that's the one.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Philippe,
Est-ce vous avez une photo de la truc?
Merci,
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: Cable Crimping Tools
> my solution a cheap 2 tons (4500lbs) car lifting jack, after simple
> modification, make the best quality/price hydraulic crimper :^)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Please keep use posted on the rewiring. I picked up some SW80s with 60 volt
coil and would like to rewind them for my brothers EM project.
James Sullivan
Quoting Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
I just got my portion of the Allbright contactor order (Thanks so
much, Rick, for coordinating the buy).
These are the ones with the 56 volt coils. Fortunately these are
trivially easy to rewind for 12 volts. I'll have some info available
on my web site in a day or two.
If anyone else needs the rewinding done, I'll do one for $20 plus
shipping, a little less for multiple coils. Contact me off-list if
you're interested.
Looking at this contactor disassembled, it just dawned on me that the
contact assembly minus the solenoid would make a great non-electric
emergency disconnect. I'll post some photos on that too in a couple
of days.
Now I have a question. Someone told me that these can be equipped
with permanent magnet blowouts. Anyone have any info or photos of
where the magnets go?
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
FYI,
http://stores.ebay.com/Rare-Earth-Neodymium-MAGNETS
I bought some Neodymium magnets from this guy and they
would be great for magnetic blowouts. I bought 1/2"
diameter disks that are .1" thick.
Just put them in parallel with the contactor tip with
the magnet edge close to where the tip opens.
At GE we would put one disk on each side of the tip.
They were embedded in the plastic that was on each
side of the copper bar.
OOO
|
|
OOO
MTM
M - magnet
T - Tip
P.S. there also great for hanging papers on the
fridge!
Rod
--- jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi John and All,
>
>
> Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I just got my portion of the Allbright contactor
> order (Thanks so
> much, Rick, for coordinating the buy).
>
> These are the ones with the 56 volt coils.
> Fortunately these are
> trivially easy to rewind for 12 volts. I'll have
> some info available
> on my web site in a day or two.
>
> If anyone else needs the rewinding done, I'll do one
> for $20 plus
> shipping, a little less for multiple coils. Contact
> me off-list if
> you're interested.
>
> Looking at this contactor disassembled, it just
> dawned on me that the
> contact assembly minus the solenoid would make a
> great non-electric
> emergency disconnect. I'll post some photos on that
> too in a couple
> of days.
>
> Now I have a question. Someone told me that these
> can be equipped
> with permanent magnet blowouts. Anyone have any info
> or photos of
> where the magnets go?
>
>
> If they are in the SW family, there are
> pockets in the terminal housing on each side of each
> contact that polarized round mags go in.
>
> Are there anymore of these and what type,
> model are they, price? The 56vdc coil is fine for me
> if the rating is enough.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jerry
> Dycus
>
>
>
>
> John
> ---
> John De Armond
> See my website for my current email address
> http://www.johngsbbq.com
> Cleveland, Occupied TN
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! for Good
> Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina
> relief effort.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Can anyone post a link to a photo of what the Sunrise looks like assembled?
-Mike Ellis
On 9/26/05, jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
> Bob Rice and I with the help of others on this and other lists just won
> the body of the Selectria Sunrise at E bay auction and James Worden has
> given permission to make more Sunrises from it !!!
> So the early plan is to make a mold from it and start making some of them
> though will probably take a yr to get the first one going. Most of the work
> has already been done on the hard part, finding all those little parts
> needed to finish the EV.
> All and All, a great day for EV's !!!
> Thanks again to those who helped make this happen, especially Bob Rice,
> Lee Hart and Keith VanSickle.
> Yeah Team !!
> Jerry Dycus
> PS, we just barely beat Zap from getting it most likely from the bid name.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! for Good
> Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Ellis wrote:
> Can anyone post a link to a photo of what the Sunrise looks like assembled?
Here's some pics:
http://images.google.com/images?svnum=10&hl=en&safe=off&rls=GGLD,GGLD:2005-07,GGLD:en&q=solectria+sunrise
One of my favorite features is the aerodynamic underside:
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/6875/336oj.gif
Also the fact that the vehicle is made out of composite and that
battery tunnel makes for good placement of the batteries and keeps
them low to the ground, vs's putting them high up in the trunk in a
convention conversion. I also like how it uses off the shelf parts
for the front and rear suspension and the windshield(and more).
------
It doesn't make sense to me why a laminated glass windshield is
required to meet DOT specs. NASCAR's don't use a glass windshield...
Seems like non glass would be safer?
For you guys building the Sunrise, check this out for your side and
rear windows:
http://www.percyshp.com/producthomespeedglass.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 06:48 AM 5/10/05 -0400, Dewey, Jody R wrote:
The megger tests insulation yes but it also tests connections at very high
voltages and a higher level of current than a regular meter can do. Most
meters top out at 9v so it is possible for a component to break down at a
higher voltage and you would not know it with a regular meter. The megger's
voltage is 500 volts and usually close to 1 amp (depending on how fast you
crank it) so you can get a lot better idea of the connection.
A hand-cranked megger may put out 1 amp-short circuit, however:
A megger is designed so that when there is a 10meg-ohm load on it it will
put out its rated voltage. So a 500V megger puts out 500V only into a
10,000,000 ohm load (yes, I repair meggers as well). Meggers are also
designed not to kill people so as the loading on the meter increases (lower
resistance value) the voltage falls as well. The implication from
500V/10Mohms (50microamps) is that the instrument will only deliver
25milliwatts (0.025watts). I appreciate the component-breakdown issue,
(e.g. using a megger to test high-voltage diodes instead of a multimeter)
but in this context that is a side issue.
Using a megger to test the earth bond (connection from a earth pin/wire to
an earthed object) is disalowed under the Australian Standard relating to
electrical safety because you CANNOT get a meaningful reading from a megger
of such a low resistance. Typical hand-cranked meggers have scales that
have logarithmic scales - but I have yet to see one whose lowest scale mark
above zero was anything less than 10,000 ohms. Digital meters usualy are
similar - meg-ohm ranges to 0.01meg-ohm, or 10,000 ohms.
Jody, are you sure that the meters that you were using weren't combined
high potential/earth bond meters that you switched ranges on? I find it
hard to believe that the US military would condone such a bad practice as
using a high-potential tester to prove low resistance.
Folks, Lee has shown the numbers, I won't repeat them.
Use clean lugs, clean copper and solder or crimp as your choice - but for
my money it's crimp, then put glue-lined heatshrink over the terminal
(including the small hole that is often in the ring end of the cable
insertion tube) to keep corrosion at bay.
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
James Massey wrote:
> Use clean lugs, clean copper and solder or crimp as your choice - but for
> my money it's crimp, then put glue-lined heatshrink over the terminal
> (including the small hole that is often in the ring end of the cable
> insertion tube) to keep corrosion at bay.
Do I need to put "Noalox" in my lugs or not when I'm crimping them?
http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/hardware.shtml
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David (Forrest) Caskey is doing a Bay Guardian article on EV's and part of
the article is on local EV converters. Anyone doing this please contact
[EMAIL PROTECTED] and your name will be listed as an EV converter.
Lawernce Rhodes......
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Caskey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 3:34 PM
Subject: RE: Bay Guardian article
Hello Lawrence and Sherry
I am finishing my article on evs and thank you very much for all the
information. The only thing that I am missing is some contact information
of a couple of people who help do the actual conversion for those of us
who know that we could not do it ourselves. My editor wants me to focus on
this being that most people have no knowledge of cars and since this is a
budding underground industry it might be good press for someone who does
do this thing. It has been fun to research and again I thank yall so much
for your help. If you can help me with some people who would liike to be
listed as ev converters please let me know their contact information.
Thank you very much,
Forrest Caskey
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Sherry Boschert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
CC: "Forrest Caskey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Bay Guardian article
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 18:41:14 -0700
Sherry meet Forrest. He wants to do an article on alt fuels. Please
help.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've been using the DLS with AC power to keep the aux battery charged. I've
made up a plug and will use just the hot & neutral. No ground. The DLS is
mounted to the frame of the car. Any other concerns? I'm hooking it up to
the controller so it will be on while running the car. I may unplug while
charging and plug back into the ac line. There is going to be a precharge
resistor. I am going to hook that up to the bypass relay.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The discharge graph suggests it is 13.2V or thereabouts.
David
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Charles Whalen
Sent: Wednesday, 5 October 2005 11:59 AM
To: EV Discussion List
Subject: Re: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed
The only Ovonic/Cobasys BEV NiMH battery I'm aware of in current
production
is the following, but it's 12V, not 13.2V, and has a 85Ah capacity (@
C/3):
http://www.cobasys.com/pdf/transportation/Series9500/Series_9500_Brochur
e.html
Charles
On Tuesday, October 04, 2005 5:30 PM, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Does anyone happen to have an info about Ovonic's 13.2V NiMH battery?
> Mainly GM's charging/discharging requirements.
>
> That's the battery used in EV1 and some S10.
>
> Thank you in advance,
>
> --
> Victor
> '91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: Victor Tikhonov<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: Crimp versus solder
Does it say if the code applies to an OEM manufactured vehicles or
home built hobby ones too?
Next thing NEC will tell me which wiring to use in my RC hobby plane.
In this sense an RC hobby plane is no different than an EV hobby car,
whether used in public places or not.
You're not allowed to sell to public unconforming hardware.
But I'm not sure about building and using personally.
Is it specifically spelled out in NEC? If not, they have no case.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Before everyone gets all wound up, the NEC Article 625 is titled "Electric
> Vehicle Charging System", and 625.1 Scope states "The provisions of this
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
The interlock AC plug disconnect system stated in the NEC is required for any
plug and recepticle on a EV. A AC magnetic contactor is install IN my EV which
drops the AC when disconnected and turns on the 12 VDC power to the motor
controller.
This AC contactor normally close power poles that is added to this contactor
controls a 12 volt relay that leaves the 12 VDC control circuit off until the
plug is disconnected.
The EV power wire which is now listed in the cable and wire section of the
NEC shall be mark with the letters EV and rated for the voltage of the system.
Many of us on this list is using this system. which prevents from driving off
before you unplug the AC power cord, which I did several times, before I
install this interlock system.
I don't like the section where we cannot used the EV as a emergency power
source. It may they do not like portable power cords coming from the EV instead
of using a hard wire system. I going to see if I can get a exception to this
if we used the proper power cables and transfer switches.
Roland
--- End Message ---
