EV Digest 4798
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
by "John Luck Home" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: MILLI-ohm meter, was: Cable Crimping Tools
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Rewinding Albright coils
by James H Wolfe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Fusing, was: RE: Those Allbright contactors
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: DLS-55 ready to install - safely grounded?
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: TN EV buses on eBay
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Attn Eathlink Customer,you have a virus (was Re: Emailing: 655.html
by "Sharon Hoopes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Starter solenoid as a contactor
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Separate 12volt chargers
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Rewinding Albright coils
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: Those Allbright contactors
by "Rick Barnes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: PFC20 Acceptance voltage set point
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: Separate 12volt chargers
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Those Allbright contactors
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) High- and Low-Votage Charging
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Solectria E-10 stalling
by Jacob <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) a ev kit car
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: We got the Sunrise !!!
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: DLS-55 ready to install.
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: DLS-55 ready to install - safely grounded?
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hmmmm yours do seem to have a weight advantage (even with the math error) -
I have 70Kg for 12 volts 106 A/h (at 1hr rate) for 19 watt hours per kilo.
You have 33 Kg for 12v 80 Ah (960 not 1080) = 29 watt hours per kilo.
But then mine are 10 bucks a piece !!
Not new though - I guess I will take em and try them - I have 12v 88 A/h's
fitted now but they are tired. These other ones are supposed to have a 20
year life !!! if you believe it.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 9:32 AM
Subject: RE: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
> Hi John
>
> Here is the spec:
> http://www.universalpowergroup.com/specs/D5751.pdf
>
> So the energy density in Wh/kg for the most practical 1h rate
> (80Ah) would be 80Ah x 12V / 33 kg = 1080 / 33 = 33 Wh/kg
>
> These are new batteries, guaranteed the same date code for
> the entire shipment (on request) and with the rate they sell
> them (several thousand of this type in stock in TX) the
> production date will be somewhere summer 2005.
> 1 Year manufacturers warranty.
>
> Regards,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of John Luck Home
> Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 12:30 AM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
>
>
> Hmmm - interesting choice. I too have been looking at replacement
batteries
> and stumbled across some YUASA EN 160-6 at a very interesting price.
>
> These have 105 A/H at the 1 hr rate (160 @ 10hr) and I.R of 1.2 milli
Ohms
> are 6 volts - so I need 36 for my 216v package and weigh 35Kg a piece.
>
> What is the energy density of the UB121100 ?
>
> The only drawback I can see with the YUASAs at the moment is that they are
> not brand new. They have been used in an emergency power situation and
been
> on float charge for 2 years !!.
>
> John
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 7:47 AM
> Subject: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
>
>
> > Quick update:
> >
> > To get my US Electricar (converted S-10) on the road and help
> > a fellow EV to get his share of lead, I will be ordering my
> > batteries tomorrow (Thursday) morning with Universal Power.
> > My battery of choice is the UB121100 because of its 1-hour
> > 80 Ah capacity (110Ah in 20h), 4 mOhm and its resilience to
> > full discharge and -last but not least- its interesting
> > price of $85 each including shipping in quantity.
> >
> > If you want to join the bulk-order then give me a quick note
> > or better call me right away if you are in the SF Bay area,
> > the batteries will be delivered to Sunnyvale by Friday.
> > I can arrange for local transport within reason, as I am
> > not making a profit here - just busy getting my own truck
> > stocked up and helping another EV'er in the process to get
> > on the road with cheap batteries.
> >
> > NOTE (disclaimer) that these batteries should work great in
> > an EV, because they are the best technology (AGM) to withstand
> > the vibration and shocks of an automotive environment. But they
> > have never (as far as I know) been tested in EVs, so they may
> > result in lower nr of cycles or other behaviour that results
> > in a shorter lifetime than the proven battery brands.
> > At less than half the price of the other brands, I am willing
> > to take that risk and test these batteries in my EV, but I
> > feel that it is not more than fair that I tell you both sides
> > of the story.
> > I am no sales man and have no interest in UB batteries, other
> > than getting a good price for my own purchase in a bulk buy.
> >
> > I need a good price, because now I can have my batteries by
> > the end of this week, with the other brands I would still
> > be saving for a few more months an my EV be sitting idle.
> >
> > These batteries will have 1-year warranty and 20% loss of
> > capacity qualifies as manufacturing defect (according the
> > sales rep).
> >
> > I also asked if I needed to order all the same type batteries
> > and he said that I can order a mix, they all qualify for the
> > discount price and free shipping if its one order and one
> > address.
> > Examples of other types and prices:
> > Group 27 90 Ah (UB12900) $76
> > Group 24 75 Ah (UB12750) $62
> > UB12400 40Ah is one inch longer than the 35Ah Hawkers - $37
> > UB12350 35Ah is 7.7 x 5.1 x 7" for $27
> > on the other end of the scale:
> > 200Ah 12V is 20.5 x 8.1 x 10" for $165
> > 250Ah 12V is 20.5 x 10.5 x 10" for $222
> >
> > The battery I will be running is the Group 30 UB121100 and
> > I will have a small secondary battery box welded as 22 of
> > these batteries will precisely fill up the original box
> > designed for 52x 35Ah Hawkers.
> > The remaining 4 will go in this shallow box behind the
> > rear axle.
> > I'll let you know the progress and photos in the coming
> > weeks, just to add to the traffic on this list ;-)
> >
> > Keep chargin'
> >
> > Cor van de Water
> > Systems Architect
> > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> > Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> > Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
> > Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
> > Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> > Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/120 - Release Date:
> 05/10/2005
> >
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/120 - Release Date:
05/10/2005
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Agree,
but my batteries will be under the cabin and the bed,
so not very accessible and during driving I want to
concentrate on THAT task.
Besides - when I measure during driving all of the work
has already been done, all batteries in place and all,
while I want to know a problem *before* I put in the time
to install a faulty connection, so I also don't need to
put in extra effort to take it out.
The batteries will go more than 2 ft under the cabin and
2 layers under the bed, so to get at most batteries
requires a lot of batteries to be disconnected and moved
so it definitely makes sense to test on the workbench before
starting the assembly.
During driving most lug-cable transfer areas will not be
accessible.
Hope this clarifies,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of John Luck Home
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 1:52 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: MILLI-ohm meter, was: Cable Crimping Tools
My guess is that if you rig up your millivoltmeter across any of your inter
battery connections whilst your EV is accelerating it will show a small
number of millivolts across the two ends of the interconnecting leads. If
you also know the current being drawn then you can calculate the resistance
of the suspect lead using ohms law.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 9:14 AM
Subject: MILLI-ohm meter, was: Cable Crimping Tools
> Another way to rig up a sensitive and quite accurate milli-ohm
> meter is to use a constant-current limited lab supply,
> capable of delivering a few volts at either 1 or 10 Amp constant.
>
> Apply this to the object you want to measure, for example with
> alligator clips and then switch your DVM (Digital Volt Meter)
> to its most sensitive volts scale, usually somewhere between
> 2V and 200mV. Measure the voltage across the transition you
> want to check WITHOUT touching the alligator clips that
> supply the current (otherwise you measure the resistance that
> the clips have, instead of your object)
>
> THe theory behind this is that you send a constant current of
> 1 or 10A through an object that you want to measure the
> resistance of.
> In the case of the 1A current, every milli-ohm of resistance
> will be represented in a milli-volt across.
> If your lug and cable are solid copper and you want to measure
> the resistance of your crimp, you clip the current loop to the
> lug and cable, then measure the voltage between lug and cable
> and when it reads no more than 2 mV you have a good crimp
> with less than 2 mOhm resistance.
>
> For the 10A test current, you will read 10 mV for every milli-
> Ohm resistance, so the measurement is more sensitive.
>
> NOTE that the resistance really affects performance, that is
> why good traction batteries have less than 5 mOhm resistance.
> For example during a good acceleration you may pull 400A
> from the batteries. In case your crimps are good and 1 mOhm
> each, with a good 12V battery adding 4 mOhm, you have 6 mOhm
> times 400A is 2.4V drop, which means you lose 20% in sag.
> (The 2.4V is divided in 1.6V for the battery and 0.4V per
> connection)
> If your connections would have 10 mOhm resistance then each
> connection would drop 4 Volts during a 400A draw, almost
> all your power would go to your connection resistance and
> only 12 - 4 - 4 - 1.6 = 2.4V is left for the traction.
>
> NOTE that you cannot measure the internal resistance of the
> battery with the above method, as the battery generates a
> current, so it will not allow a 1 or 10A to measure the
> internal resistance, just to avoid costly mistakes....
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Lee Hart
> Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 1:36 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Cable Crimping Tools
>
>
> Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) wrote:
> > If you are testing a metal to metal connection and get resistance
> > that is not good. We use [a megger] to test static wics and other
> > conductors all the time in the military. You crank em up and make
> > sure that they are reading zero ohms.
>
> The trouble is, a megger reads "0" ohms for anything below 1 ohm. So
> does a standard multimeter. They can only tell you that a connection
> exists; they can't tell you how good it is.
>
> A high current connection needs to have a resistance less than a few
> *thousandths* of an ohm! Suppose it needs to carry 100 amps; if it has
> 0.001 ohm of resistance, it produces P = I^2 x R = 100 x 100 x 0.001 =
> 10 watts of heat; it will get warm, but work. The voltage drop across
> the connection will be V = I x R = 100 x 0.001 = 0.1 volts. This is a
> "good" connection.
>
> Now suppose it has 0.01 ohm of resistance; it produces 100 watts of
> heat; as much as a 100 watt light bulb! Do this for more than a minute
> and it will burn up! This connection also has a voltage drop of 1 volt;
> it's wasting a significant fraction of your power!
>
> You measure connection resistance with a MILLI-ohmmeter, not a megger.
> (MEG-ohmmeter). It measures these sub-ohm resistances by running a
> modestly high current thru them, and measuring the voltage drop with a
> sensitive meter.
>
> For hobby use, you can make one. Here is the circuit (view with a fixed
> width font):
> _____________________ ___________________
> | || || | | |
> _|_ 12v car || || | | < 10 ohm
> / \ headlight | \/ | | --->< pot
> \___/ large | o| | | < (calibrate)
> | alligator | /\ | | |
> | clip |> <| | |
> / on/off |> <| | meter +_|_
> + | switch | 50mv / \
> ____|____ | full \___/
> | | | scale - |
> | 12v | |> <| _|_ |
> | battery | |> <| _\_/_ |
> | or | large | \/ | | D1 |
> | charger | alligator | o| | | schottky |
> |_________| clip | /\ | | diode |
> | || || | |
> - |____________________|| ||_______|__________|
>
> The battery or battery charger provides the source of power. The car
> headlight serves as a crude 4amp constant current limiter.
>
> The two large alligator clips connect to the "resistance" to be
> measured. They need to be large enough to handle 4 amps, and to clip
> onto the size terminals you expect to test. For instance, clip one onto
> the battery post itself, and the other to the terminal on that post to
> measure the resistance between post and terminal.
>
> The alligator clips need to be modified. Drill out the metal rivet that
> holds the two halves together. Replace it with a plastic screw. Use
> insulating washers between the metal halves so they do not touch.
> Insulate the spring with pieces of wire insulation. Put it all back
> together, and check with an ohmmeter to be SURE the two halves of the
> clip are not shorted together.
>
> The analog meter should be one that reads "full scale" with 0.1 volts or
> less. Typically, any DC meter that reads 1 milliamp or less full-scale
> will work, as will the 50mv full-scale meters normally used to measure
> the voltage across a shunt, or even a general-purpose analog multimeter
> with a current range that reads 1ma or less full-scale.
>
> The schottky diode is there to protect the meter when the alliagator
> clips are not connected to something. Its voltage rating is unimportant,
> but it should be rated at 10 amps or more. For example, MBR1060 (60v,
> 10amps), Jameco #301444 $0.63 each.
>
> To use it, clip the two alligator clips onto the connection to be
> tested, THEN turn on the power switch. The left sides of the alligator
> clips run about 4 amps thru the connection under test. The right sides
> of the alligator clips measure the voltage across the connection at this
> current. The higher the meter reading, the worse the connection.
>
> To calibrate it, you need a known resistance. A shunt is a good choice
> for a precision resistor. For instance, if you have a 50amp 50mv shunt,
> its resistance is R = 0.05v / 50a = 0.001 ohm. Either mark the meter's
> scale, or adjust the 10-ohm pot to a convenient number. For example, if
> you used a meter that is 50 microamps full-scale, you could set the pot
> so it reads 1 microamp; then microamps = milliohms (10ua = 10 milliohms
> = 0.01 ohm, etc.)
> --
> Ring the bells that you can ring
> Forget your perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in
> -- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/120 - Release Date:
05/10/2005
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Everything you ever wanted to know about rewinding contactor coils.
>http://www.qsl.net/ki7cx/Coilrewind.htm<
Jim
'93 Dodge TEVan
"Breathe Easy, It's Electric"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi James,
No racecar, just a Bimmer ;-)
Actually the battery has 4 mOhm resistance and 12V so could
produce a short circuit current of 3000A which I want to
make sure is broken when this occurs.
The "breaker" is there to respond quickly to the normal overloads.
I'll keep in mind that you have fuses, just in case I need a
different rating.
For now I think I am good. Let me know if you know otherwise,
I am familiar with electronics, not necessarily so much with EVs.
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of James Massey
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 1:52 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Fusing, was: RE: Those Allbright contactors
At 01:14 AM 6/10/05 -0700, Cor van de Water wrote:
>I bought a set 400A 300V DC fuses. If you need one, let me know.
Hi Cor
looking down the curve for a HRC (high rupture capacity) fuse at 400A, the
relevant current rupture points points are as follows:
400A - forever
800A - 1000 seconds
1000A - 200 seconds
1500A - 10 seconds
2000A - 3 seconds
2500A - 1 second
3000A - 0.5 seconds
What kind of large truck or race car do you have?
Alternatively can I swap you some smaller fuses for a breaker? (I bought a
collection of several thousand HRC fuses from an industrial salvage co for
a few cents in the dollar, ranging from a few amps up to 800A).
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John,
They are designed for 10 years standby according to the manufacturer
http://www.yuasa-battery.co.uk/ind_enhighgrade.html
10 bucks can not easily be beat, even if they last only 1 year
in cycle life.
I hope there is some capacity in them when they have not been cycled
for so long.
Success,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of John Luck Home
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 2:05 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
Hmmmm yours do seem to have a weight advantage (even with the math error) -
I have 70Kg for 12 volts 106 A/h (at 1hr rate) for 19 watt hours per kilo.
You have 33 Kg for 12v 80 Ah (960 not 1080) = 29 watt hours per kilo.
But then mine are 10 bucks a piece !!
Not new though - I guess I will take em and try them - I have 12v 88 A/h's
fitted now but they are tired. These other ones are supposed to have a 20
year life !!! if you believe it.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 9:32 AM
Subject: RE: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
> Hi John
>
> Here is the spec:
> http://www.universalpowergroup.com/specs/D5751.pdf
>
> So the energy density in Wh/kg for the most practical 1h rate
> (80Ah) would be 80Ah x 12V / 33 kg = 1080 / 33 = 33 Wh/kg
>
> These are new batteries, guaranteed the same date code for
> the entire shipment (on request) and with the rate they sell
> them (several thousand of this type in stock in TX) the
> production date will be somewhere summer 2005.
> 1 Year manufacturers warranty.
>
> Regards,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of John Luck Home
> Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 12:30 AM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
>
>
> Hmmm - interesting choice. I too have been looking at replacement
batteries
> and stumbled across some YUASA EN 160-6 at a very interesting price.
>
> These have 105 A/H at the 1 hr rate (160 @ 10hr) and I.R of 1.2 milli
Ohms
> are 6 volts - so I need 36 for my 216v package and weigh 35Kg a piece.
>
> What is the energy density of the UB121100 ?
>
> The only drawback I can see with the YUASAs at the moment is that they are
> not brand new. They have been used in an emergency power situation and
been
> on float charge for 2 years !!.
>
> John
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 7:47 AM
> Subject: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
>
>
> > Quick update:
> >
> > To get my US Electricar (converted S-10) on the road and help
> > a fellow EV to get his share of lead, I will be ordering my
> > batteries tomorrow (Thursday) morning with Universal Power.
> > My battery of choice is the UB121100 because of its 1-hour
> > 80 Ah capacity (110Ah in 20h), 4 mOhm and its resilience to
> > full discharge and -last but not least- its interesting
> > price of $85 each including shipping in quantity.
> >
> > If you want to join the bulk-order then give me a quick note
> > or better call me right away if you are in the SF Bay area,
> > the batteries will be delivered to Sunnyvale by Friday.
> > I can arrange for local transport within reason, as I am
> > not making a profit here - just busy getting my own truck
> > stocked up and helping another EV'er in the process to get
> > on the road with cheap batteries.
> >
> > NOTE (disclaimer) that these batteries should work great in
> > an EV, because they are the best technology (AGM) to withstand
> > the vibration and shocks of an automotive environment. But they
> > have never (as far as I know) been tested in EVs, so they may
> > result in lower nr of cycles or other behaviour that results
> > in a shorter lifetime than the proven battery brands.
> > At less than half the price of the other brands, I am willing
> > to take that risk and test these batteries in my EV, but I
> > feel that it is not more than fair that I tell you both sides
> > of the story.
> > I am no sales man and have no interest in UB batteries, other
> > than getting a good price for my own purchase in a bulk buy.
> >
> > I need a good price, because now I can have my batteries by
> > the end of this week, with the other brands I would still
> > be saving for a few more months an my EV be sitting idle.
> >
> > These batteries will have 1-year warranty and 20% loss of
> > capacity qualifies as manufacturing defect (according the
> > sales rep).
> >
> > I also asked if I needed to order all the same type batteries
> > and he said that I can order a mix, they all qualify for the
> > discount price and free shipping if its one order and one
> > address.
> > Examples of other types and prices:
> > Group 27 90 Ah (UB12900) $76
> > Group 24 75 Ah (UB12750) $62
> > UB12400 40Ah is one inch longer than the 35Ah Hawkers - $37
> > UB12350 35Ah is 7.7 x 5.1 x 7" for $27
> > on the other end of the scale:
> > 200Ah 12V is 20.5 x 8.1 x 10" for $165
> > 250Ah 12V is 20.5 x 10.5 x 10" for $222
> >
> > The battery I will be running is the Group 30 UB121100 and
> > I will have a small secondary battery box welded as 22 of
> > these batteries will precisely fill up the original box
> > designed for 52x 35Ah Hawkers.
> > The remaining 4 will go in this shallow box behind the
> > rear axle.
> > I'll let you know the progress and photos in the coming
> > weeks, just to add to the traffic on this list ;-)
> >
> > Keep chargin'
> >
> > Cor van de Water
> > Systems Architect
> > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> > Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> > Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
> > Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
> > Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> > Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/120 - Release Date:
> 05/10/2005
> >
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/120 - Release Date:
05/10/2005
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Connecting the box to the body of the car doesn't do anything to ground the
car if the box isn't grounded either.
Is the car ( or the box, since they are connected together) connected to
earth ground ( the green wire from your outlet) ?
You need a ground wire connected to the car body ( and, preferably, a GFI,
also) , so the car can't become hot relative to ground. If it did, it would
be dangerous for you and any one else who could come into contact with the
car while it was plugged in.
Phil
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: DLS-55 ready to install.
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2005 01:08:17 -0700
The box is connected to the body of the car. LR........
----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 4:57 PM
Subject: RE: DLS-55 ready to install.
Are you somehow grounding ( earth ground) the body of the car?
If not, then you are at risk if there is a failure somewhere and the car
body becomes hot with respect to ground -- unless there is a GFI in the
power line to the charger - and, in the power line of every other piece of
equipment that has 120 or 240 AC fed to it.
I may have missed it, but why are you not using the ground line to ground
the box and car body?
Phil
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: DLS-55 ready to install.
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2005 16:08:53 -0700
I've been using the DLS with AC power to keep the aux battery charged.
I've made up a plug and will use just the hot & neutral. No ground. The
DLS is mounted to the frame of the car. Any other concerns? I'm hooking
it up to the controller so it will be on while running the car. I may
unplug while charging and plug back into the ac line. There is going to
be a precharge resistor. I am going to hook that up to the bypass relay.
Lawrence Rhodes
_________________________________________________________________
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
11 of them in one big lot. Would be interesting if any listers live
nearby, could buy them and then resell parts, if the parts are useable
on ordinary vehicles. If there are 2 motors per bus, maybe 1 motor is
a decent size for a car or truck. And there's a capstone turbine
involved too.
On 10/5/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> ...with no reserve:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4580089617
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
We do have anti-virus software. So take us off your list!
Bill & Sharon Hoopes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [Original Message]
> From: Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Date: 10/6/2005 1:32:17 AM
> Subject: Attn Eathlink Customer,you have a virus (was Re: Emailing:
655.html
>
> The email to the EVDL claiming to come from Sharron Hoopes was actually
> from an Earthlink customer.
>
> If you have the following people in your email contacts, then you are
> probably the one with the virus:
>
> "Chris & Christine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] (address edited to prevent spam)
> "Daniel Rivest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> "Jerry & dors Labine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> "mischsteyla.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> "qof_4" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> If you don't have anti-virus software, or it's out of date, please get up
> to date anti-virus protection.
> There is no excuse for not having anti-virus software, there are numerous
> free products available for home use.
>
> --
> If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
> junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
> wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
> legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
HI all,
Has anyone used a car starter solenoid as a contactor before. I saw one at
the local auto shop the other day, 12V - 200A and that's it. It looks very
beefy at the terminals, weigh in at about 500grams. And cost a hell of a lot
less than the contactors from Albright etc....
Just want to know opinions
Cheers
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
Just wondering about this idea. I want to charge my 72 volt battery pack
made up of SCS225 12 volt Trojans, with separate 12 volt chargers. Can
anyone detail the wiring setup, is it like connecting each battery to each
battery terminal while they are all connected in series. I am using a cheap
12 volt battery charger 4amp rms output.
The expense is killing me
Cheers
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
"That reminds me. . . I still have a 1500A albright
contactor with a 72 Volt coil that is collecting dust
in the corner of the shop. Anyone interested in making
a trade, maybe for some magnet wire?
"
Still have that contactor? I have LOTS of magnet
wire, any gage size you need down to 13.
Rod
www.qsl.net/w8rnh
--- James H Wolfe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Everything you ever wanted to know about rewinding
> contactor coils.
>
> >http://www.qsl.net/ki7cx/Coilrewind.htm<
>
> Jim
> '93 Dodge TEVan
> "Breathe Easy, It's Electric"
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Type: SW200A 56vdc CW 678-(Exclusively for Lucent Technologies) Coil
Voltage: 56 V Continuous DC Coil Resistance: (Ohms) 182
Pull In Voltage: 37 V Max.
Drop Out Voltage: 15 V Max.
Coil Power Dissipation: 17.23 Watts
Additional Features:
DIODE ON COIL, POSITIVE AT BOTTOM
LUCENT PART NO: 407903244
I am pretty sure the contact rating is 120VDC 250A continuous.
I ordered a few extra when I placed the bulk order. Price $35 ea plus
shipping.
If there is demand, I can make another bulk purchase.
Rick Barnes
Aloha, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of jerry dycus
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 1:32 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Those Allbright contactors
Hi John and All,
Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I just got my portion of the Allbright contactor order (Thanks so much,
Rick, for coordinating the buy).
These are the ones with the 56 volt coils. Fortunately these are trivially
easy to rewind for 12 volts. I'll have some info available on my web site in
a day or two.
If anyone else needs the rewinding done, I'll do one for $20 plus shipping,
a little less for multiple coils. Contact me off-list if you're interested.
Looking at this contactor disassembled, it just dawned on me that the
contact assembly minus the solenoid would make a great non-electric
emergency disconnect. I'll post some photos on that too in a couple of days.
Now I have a question. Someone told me that these can be equipped with
permanent magnet blowouts. Anyone have any info or photos of where the
magnets go?
If they are in the SW family, there are pockets in the terminal
housing on each side of each contact that polarized round mags go in.
Are there anymore of these and what type, model are they, price?
The 56vdc coil is fine for me if the rating is enough.
Thanks,
Jerry Dycus
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>Are you placing a order with EV parts??
yes! (Man you have been busy, haven't you?)
>I have the Regs in hand... I can ship to EV parts or drop ship Like first
>thing in the morning.
PLEASE DO, I would like to work on it this weekend! (gladly pay "next day"
shipping)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You are only talking 6 batteries correct? There is another thread on here
talking about using a charge analyzer to charge each battery individually so
they get max charge each time. The thread is called battery charging in
parallel.
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Chew [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 9:04 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Separate 12volt chargers
Hi All,
Just wondering about this idea. I want to charge my 72 volt battery pack
made up of SCS225 12 volt Trojans, with separate 12 volt chargers. Can
anyone detail the wiring setup, is it like connecting each battery to each
battery terminal while they are all connected in series. I am using a cheap
12 volt battery charger 4amp rms output.
The expense is killing me
Cheers
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rick,
How do you take them apart to make them into 12V contactors? Do you
have pictures of the before, during, and after by chance?
Jody
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Barnes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 8:56 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: RE: Those Allbright contactors
Type: SW200A 56vdc CW 678-(Exclusively for Lucent Technologies) Coil
Voltage: 56 V Continuous DC Coil Resistance: (Ohms) 182
Pull In Voltage: 37 V Max.
Drop Out Voltage: 15 V Max.
Coil Power Dissipation: 17.23 Watts
Additional Features:
DIODE ON COIL, POSITIVE AT BOTTOM
LUCENT PART NO: 407903244
I am pretty sure the contact rating is 120VDC 250A continuous.
I ordered a few extra when I placed the bulk order. Price $35 ea plus
shipping.
If there is demand, I can make another bulk purchase.
Rick Barnes
Aloha, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of jerry dycus
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 1:32 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Those Allbright contactors
Hi John and All,
Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I just got my portion of the Allbright contactor order (Thanks so much,
Rick, for coordinating the buy).
These are the ones with the 56 volt coils. Fortunately these are trivially
easy to rewind for 12 volts. I'll have some info available on my web site in
a day or two.
If anyone else needs the rewinding done, I'll do one for $20 plus shipping,
a little less for multiple coils. Contact me off-list if you're interested.
Looking at this contactor disassembled, it just dawned on me that the
contact assembly minus the solenoid would make a great non-electric
emergency disconnect. I'll post some photos on that too in a couple of days.
Now I have a question. Someone told me that these can be equipped with
permanent magnet blowouts. Anyone have any info or photos of where the
magnets go?
If they are in the SW family, there are pockets in the terminal
housing on each side of each contact that polarized round mags go in.
Are there anymore of these and what type, model are they, price?
The 56vdc coil is fine for me if the rating is enough.
Thanks,
Jerry Dycus
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Without a DC/DC converter, if you've got a charger for your 12V system, and
a separate non-isolated charger for your High-Voltage system, and you're
charging both at the same time, it seems like the ground for the 12V system
and the ground for the High-Voltage system will be tied together, since both
chargers are grounded to the chassis. Is there any problem with that setup?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Have any of you E-10 or Force owners ever experienced stalling while
accelerating into traffic or going up mild inclined hills? Yes, complete
stalling - this can be very dangerous and is what I'm dealing with. When it
stalls, I can get it going again right away usually if I switch the console
to neutral, turn off the key and back on again and then put it back in
forward again. Do think this is a POT or motor controller issue or something
else? Currently I'm just driving it with one controller and motor as the
other side controller is removed for (hopeful) repair.
Thanks..Jacob Harris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Paul who I did the 959 Porsche conversion for a few years ago has gotten an
order for a electric , its at the bottom of the page ,
http://www.worldclassexotics.com/Murcury.htm
I don't remember how I met Paul , must have been 8 years ago , It was back
when I had my 2nd EV the
Mercury LYNX and gave him a ride in it . So when your showing off your EV
remember you never know what somebody who sees it will do ,
steve clunn
PS
dose anybody know where I can get the side cretins ( window that snaps to
door ) for that 1930 Mercedes Gazelle Kit car ?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Ryab an' All;
That Sunrise was one of a few customly assembled to show a finished,
drivable vehicle. James Worden has another from that "production" run. As
one-offs they were done at local in MA custom upolstery shops. I saw Jame's
car in the dark, but felt it was close to Honda's legrendary fit and finish.
Or it looked great to me.Unfortunately his wasn't tagged so he was a bit
reluctent to go out on the hiway, but we scooted up and down his street
quity nicely, no 0-to60 bursts, but it seemed peppy enough.
Now if we had a few million MORE!
Seeya
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: We got the Sunrise !!!
> Mike Chancey wrote:
>
> > http://evalbum.com/655.html
>
> That's some nice looking interior. I wonder where they got it?
>
> That car is in mint condition! Very light weight for being a complete
> car. A shame about it's 0-60mph performance though.. Needs to be a
> real performer to shed the EV stereotypes and be worth the asking
> price.
>
> That complete one on eBay a while back was asking ~$80,000 was it not?
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence -- I guess you noticed the huge inrush current when powering
this thing up? I have a melted spot on my plug from when I first
plugged it in.
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
I've been using the DLS with AC power to keep the aux battery
charged. I've made up a plug and will use just the hot & neutral. No
ground. The DLS is mounted to the frame of the car. Any other
concerns? I'm hooking it up to the controller so it will be on while
running the car. I may unplug while charging and plug back into the
ac line. There is going to be a precharge resistor. I am going to
hook that up to the bypass relay.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Phil,
He's using the DLS-55 as a DC-DC converter. He's hooking the AC hot /
neutral input lines to the + and - of his traction pack, and leaving the
ground wire "unconnected," even though it's electrically connected to
the car frame via the chassis of the device. Earth ground / GFI don't
apply here.
Phil Marino wrote:
Connecting the box to the body of the car doesn't do anything to
ground the car if the box isn't grounded either.
Is the car ( or the box, since they are connected together) connected
to earth ground ( the green wire from your outlet) ?
You need a ground wire connected to the car body ( and, preferably, a
GFI, also) , so the car can't become hot relative to ground. If it
did, it would be dangerous for you and any one else who could come
into contact with the car while it was plugged in.
Phil
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: DLS-55 ready to install.
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2005 01:08:17 -0700
The box is connected to the body of the car. LR........
----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Marino"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 4:57 PM
Subject: RE: DLS-55 ready to install.
Are you somehow grounding ( earth ground) the body of the car?
If not, then you are at risk if there is a failure somewhere and the
car body becomes hot with respect to ground -- unless there is a GFI
in the power line to the charger - and, in the power line of every
other piece of equipment that has 120 or 240 AC fed to it.
I may have missed it, but why are you not using the ground line to
ground the box and car body?
Phil
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: DLS-55 ready to install.
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2005 16:08:53 -0700
I've been using the DLS with AC power to keep the aux battery
charged. I've made up a plug and will use just the hot & neutral.
No ground. The DLS is mounted to the frame of the car. Any other
concerns? I'm hooking it up to the controller so it will be on
while running the car. I may unplug while charging and plug back
into the ac line. There is going to be a precharge resistor. I am
going to hook that up to the bypass relay.
Lawrence Rhodes
_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
