EV Digest 4845
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: clutchless vw
by Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Jabsco Zilla pump
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: OT: LEDs Will Replace "everything!"
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB
by "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Coast down times/speeds
by Gnat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Volts rabbit conversion: Transmission fluid.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: OT: LEDs Will Replace "everything!"
by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Coast down times/speeds
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) 2 cars now 1 car
by Seth Rothenberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: clutchless vw
by "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: window defrost
by "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Max current w/top terminal UPS batteries?
by "Tim Stephenson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: window defrost
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Zilla Cooling
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) EV parts on EBay
by "Jeff Wilson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Gears available for VW Rabbit transmissions.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) DC-DC Upconverter Reqd
by "djsharpe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: zilla cooling pumps on a saturday morning.
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: 2 cars now 1 car
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: zilla cooling pumps on a saturday morning.
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
22) Re: Max current w/top terminal UPS batteries?
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Opportunity Charging
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Max current w/top terminal UPS batteries?
by "Tim Stephenson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re:window defrost
by "Joe Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)?
by "Charles Whalen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Volts rabbit conversion: Transmission fluid.Stuff
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
David,
In regard to EVs (not hybrids), there are many
different "types" of customers in the market: the ones
that build, people that work on them and the one that
says: "do they accept american express?". Originally
the only way to get one was to build it. As you know,
many small companies have come and gone. It is still
a small market and as all of the recent "crushing"
shows, there are forces that want to keep it that way.
If someone wants/needs the "appliance" version they
should have stolen an EV1 when they had the chance.
Unfortunately, it may be a while before the appliance
is available again.
Jimmy
--- David Roden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> This whole discussion makes me a little
> uncomfortable. I've seen too many
> cases where "civilians" (well meaning folks who are
> relatively
> unsophisticated in mechanical and electrical
> maintenance) bought into EVs
> with enthusiasm, and ended up bitter and
> disillusioned.
>
> People are used to cars being appliances. What they
> expect in an EV is a
> car they can drive just like their gas cars.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
Jeff wrote:
I couldn't find it on they're site but here is a link
http://www.iboats.com/products/16/38845_jabsco_par_max_1_water_system_pump.html
Althought it is only rated at 1.1 gpm, (I gave up comparing pumps on gpm
and went to amps draw and 3/8 hose), there are some variables in gpm
that they don't reveal. This I think is at the 10psi, 2.9Amp data point.
I'm interested to find out just how quiet this pump is. Also would be
good to know the actual output. Maybe I'll pick on up and find out. I
sure like the 3/8" fittings.
The one thing that concerns me is that it's rated for "intermittent
duty". This is the page I was looking at:
http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/store/products/productDisplay~manufacturer~JABSCO~model~AUTO+WATER+SYSTEM+PUMP+AND+MANUAL+DEMAND+PUMP.htm
-Ryan
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, WarP, and PowerCheq
All at the best prices available!
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Actually the article never established that QDs would be more efficient
than a blue LED and phosphors. They revealed this interesting discovery
and, in typical tech reporting style, the suggestions far outpace facts.
I do know quite a lot about power LEDs. The best power output out there
is the Lamina and it's tremendous with a perfect thermal design. Also
reasonably cheap. But, the light distribution is not easily focused and
honestly the power output is still impractical for a headlight, too many
would be required. The power output per watt is much better than
incandescent, but even being twice as good is not going to make it viable.
HID is neat, neat stuff. High end cars use them. I have a takeout I
got on eBay and it's neato. The power output for like 30W-40W is
enormous. I think basically it was twice as bright as a normal
headlight while consuming half the power. Lawmakers are considering
some type of control or ban because they make much more light than
intended (the laws all state max wattage a headlight can consume, not
lumen output!), enough to blind people. Sadly, even though the output
of a single HID would seem fine for driving, law still requires two
lights and there's not really "half power" tubes because the efficiency
goes down with smaller tubes.
But the real trouble comes from bright/dim issues. Though it ignites
almost immediately, HID takes a about a min to complete its starting
cycle and it is not good for the tube to turn it on and off. Some
setups used HIDs for low beam and a standard halogen for hi beams.
Kinda weird because the HID would have otherwise been great for hi
beam. Other much more advanced systems will use a solenoid to
reposition the HID tube inside the reflector to achieve reasonable hi
and lo beam distributions without shutting down the tube.
Danny
Nick 'Sharkey' Moore wrote:
On 2005-10-22, David Roden wrote:
White LEDs are another matter. I've done some reading on this, when I was
thinking about putting LEDs on my Elec-Trak. From what I can tell, subject
to correction as I admit I don't follow this closely, current white LEDs
usually use a phosphor pasted over a blue LED.
Pretty much. The article linked describes a more efficient form of
'phosphor', pretty much.
The real holy grail is exciting the quantum dots directly, you'd end
up with a full-spectrum white light with the same kind of efficiency
as a red LED.
Red and amber LEDS make great tail and turn lights. For the moment,
if you want efficient headlights, go HID.
-----sharks
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would like to race him. How many battery amps is the CE pulling?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2005 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: 123 STREET E CLUB
That wall is of your own making.
The point you still don't get is none of us are racing you. And don't want
to.
We are having fun, and enjoying it.
You are racing to dominate, and humiliate...
Not What I call fun.
Good luck on your 123 E class. You should be alone in it for along time.
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2005 2:34 AM
Subject: Re: 123 STREET E CLUB
In a message dated 10/21/05 11:41:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Subj: Re:123 STREET E CLUB
Date: 10/21/05 11:41:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Rich Rudman)
Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-to: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
That's funny Dennis I never said that.
I just resent you tweaking your nose at us all.
!!!!!!You have not agreed on the placement of my motor,or me using a
full
cage,or having no sound system(I really do listen to just am talk
radio)or
the
lite weight seats ect.I should be able to have all this and still drive
it
on
the street complying with az.regulations.I thought the madman 100 club
was
for
street used vechs.
You already have more cash and backing in that truck that anyone else in
Nedra has this year.
!!!!!! Lets see Truck$200 Axel $900 Motor $100 + a lot of my own time
Wheels/tires$900 Hawkers$1700 Brake system $750 Steering $325 Suspension
and legal
cage$1000 Controller bowered from CE on non race days Charger same as
used
on CE
ect.There is a limited $10000 budget(profit I made on the Ranger EV I
sold
this year)Effective cost $0
Ever feel you are bragging alone on a street corner????
!!!!Many of the nedra folk including yourself have said the only reason
CE
is quick is because its a lite dragster and for years have dared me to
come and
play on your street corner well I am coming out to play with the S10.
After awhile even those of us who respect your efforts, Become tired of
the
same old ," I can whip your ass anyday of the week" Line.
>>
!!! Put me up against a wall and yes I will fight.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just wondering if anyone could do a tiny experiment
with their EV. Trying to figure out low speed cd's
and rolling friction. I don't think its possible to
sort out what is the greater influence without getting
serious but some simple tests will give an idea.
Here's the test(s) simply get up to a steady speed
of 30mph/50kph and record the time/and distance it
takes to decell to 5mph or a complete stop without
any application of brakes.
The slower the speed the better but the slower
the speed the harder it is to find a nice level road
with no traffic. That's why a set low speed will work
as long as everyone reports the same dropout speed.
I drove around for 2 days trying to do this and the
slowest I managed to get was about 12mph before having
use brakes.
If anyone can try this, I'd be very curious to compare
times. Oh and this should be without regen.
Dave
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Got a Diesel Rabbit to convert to electric. 9 inch and rear battery box
already in. I'm assuming it is geared a little lower. What is a good
synthetic to use. I'm thinking Royal Purple, Amsoil or Redline might be
options. What works well and lasts. Protecting the tranny would be nice
too.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 2005-10-22, Danny Miller wrote:
> Actually the article never established that QDs would be more efficient
> than a blue LED and phosphors. They revealed this interesting discovery
> and, in typical tech reporting style, the suggestions far outpace facts.
It never does, but I know some physicists, you see ...
Whether they actually _will_ be more efficient is yet to be determined,
but that's the hope of a lot of this research.
> But the real trouble comes from bright/dim issues. Though it ignites
> almost immediately, HID takes a about a min to complete its starting
> cycle and it is not good for the tube to turn it on and off. Some
> setups used HIDs for low beam and a standard halogen for hi beams.
> Kinda weird because the HID would have otherwise been great for hi
> beam. Other much more advanced systems will use a solenoid to
> reposition the HID tube inside the reflector to achieve reasonable hi
> and lo beam distributions without shutting down the tube.
I guess they still make sense as driving lights, but yes, in the
circumstances a mechanical actuation (in a headlight specifically
designed for such, not as a bodge job) would make sense for hi/lo.
-----sharks
--
Nick 'Sharkey' Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <http://zoic.org/sharkey/>
"The surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is
that it has never tried to contact us." -- Bill Watterson, Calvin and Hobbes.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Dave,
Here is the results of my first proto type EV that I received as a research
grant back in 1975. I kept records on time of day, temperature, distance
travel, grades, motor on time, coast time, away time, specific gravity per
mile, voltage drop per mile, maximum ampere and other data that sent in to the
EV company.
This EV was call TRANSFORMER I which was a full size car that had large 90 each
18 inch high battery cobalt cells that weigh 3000 lbs. The car weigh 7850 lbs.
Did not used REGEN because the distance gain during coasting was greater than
using REGEN to put any energy back.
The tires were Goodyear H-78-15 Polyglass 8 ply 2010lbs @ 40 lbs which was at
40 PSI. The diameter was 28.35 in.Dia. or 89.1 in.Cir. The top speed was 92
mph.
Are in city speed limit is 30 mph and the stop lights are space about 1/2 mile
apart. The length of the blocks are 440 feet and I find that if the stop light
about 3 blocks is about to change, I had to let up on the accelerator and still
had to brake after traveling 3 x 440 ft = 1320 ft which was coasting down from
30 mph to the light. Still was going just over 10 mph.
The next time, I started to let up at four blocks from the stop light which is
now 4 x 440= 1760 ft. and I was still barely moving and just tap the brakes to
stop at the light.
I also have high speed coasting run out data on this car. Coasting down a 1
mile hill which the EV speed was at 80 mph, it continue on a flat grade for 1.2
miles which was still doing 35 mph which was the right speed to turn on a exit
to my home. Still coasted thru the exit and going up a slight hill which slow
me down to 25 mph and than another 1 mile down grade which took me back up to
35 mph and continue to coast three blocks or 1320 ft to the traffic light. If
the traffic light is green, I than can turn on my street and continue to coast
down a slight grade for four blocks and right into my garage.
This is about a total coasting distance of 4 miles.
This car had a tremendous coasting run out, a lot more than the EV I have now.
The EV I driving cannot coast over 880 feet at 30 mph, because of its
mechanical REGEN, it is safer going down these hills when its icy.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Gnat<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2005 8:53 PM
Subject: Coast down times/speeds
Just wondering if anyone could do a tiny experiment
with their EV. Trying to figure out low speed cd's
and rolling friction. I don't think its possible to
sort out what is the greater influence without getting
serious but some simple tests will give an idea.
Here's the test(s) simply get up to a steady speed
of 30mph/50kph and record the time/and distance it
takes to decell to 5mph or a complete stop without
any application of brakes.
The slower the speed the better but the slower
the speed the harder it is to find a nice level road
with no traffic. That's why a set low speed will work
as long as everyone reports the same dropout speed.
I drove around for 2 days trying to do this and the
slowest I managed to get was about 12mph before having
use brakes.
If anyone can try this, I'd be very curious to compare
times. Oh and this should be without regen.
Dave
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for the debate...
I was thinking about the surface area of the
Town Car for solar panels, but the majority view here
was to scrap it, so I did. (dont worry, it'll be crushed soon)
Meanwhile, the Brant book arrived, great reading.
They should reprint it - if the Oil Lobby will allow it.
Now, about that Mazda - I found a guy who might give me
a 1998 Nissan Altima as a trade for it.
How does that sound? Google didn't find any EV conversions.
The Altima has a curb weight 2859 lbs, which sounded good to me.
Even has good NHTSA Crash-Test Results.
As far as what I want to do with it....
3. Build an errands car for my wife, who currently drives
to work alone 2 whole miles in a 6 cylinder minivan.
2. Build an errands car for me. I don't need it nearly as much,
but would still get use out of it. Probably share the above...
** 1. Build a commuter car for me. **
That's a tall order. I work 30 miles from home, via most direct route.
The less crowded route is further. Thus, goal needs to be 70 miles RT.
I was thinking (and one of my interested friends thought of)
solar cells to boost the distance. I need to read more about
how much charge one might get out of a handfull of cells on
the roof of the car. (I did see one in the EV photo gallery)
Advantage: charging on the way to work, while at work....
Does anyone on the list use solar panels?
How are they in the winter?
I was thinking worst case, I could even make a rig
of extra panels that fold out after I park.
But in a snow storm, I would get 0 charge.
upside: Solar ==> true green car
(good to sell my wife on this "silliness")
Also, I want Regenerative braking.
It appears that a DC motor is the cheap way to get that.
Thanks again
Seth
PS another interesting read is "Reinventing the Wheel" -
it's about the development of the Segway.
I'm sort of related to the founder of that company.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>> If it is preferred to drive without clutch as is best for your friend,
>> an AC setup may be ideal.
> Yes, but you are talking about someone who wants an old VW Bug converted
> -- got to suspect they aren't in the market for something that runs many
thousands
> of dollars. Might get by cheaper with SepEx equipment from a dead
forklift.
I don't think the issue is AC vs. DC. If you want to go clutchless, this
generally means you don't want to shift. And to go shiftless, you need a
bigger motor and controller so it can deliver the needed torque over the
entire speed range.
Going shiftless is the *normal* way EVs are built. you don't need to shift.
Essentially all purpose-built EVs are clutchless and transmissionless,
regardless of whether they use AC or DC motors. It's not that difficult.
EVs have been being built this way for 100 years!
Even a crude old undersized DC series motor has a broad enough power band
that two gears are enough; you can do everything with 1st and 3rd gear, and
don't need 2nd or 4th gears. There is typically a 2:1 or less difference in
the gear ratio between 1st/3rd, so at worst the motor needs to deliver
twice the torque as it would with a transmission to help. A motor that can
produce 2x the torque is not 2x the size or weight; but more like 50% more.
This means if an Advanced DC L91 motor (6.7", 82 lbs) and Curtis 1221C
(400amp) controller was adequate with a transmission, an Advanced DC
FB-4001 (9", 143 lbs) and Auburn Kodiak (600amp) controller can match its
performance without a transmission.
Given the larger motor and controller, then you can include a reversing
contactor so you'll never have to touch the gearshift lever (leave it in
2nd or 3rd gear all the time). Or, just use the gearshift lever to go
between reverse and 2nd or 3rd gear when stopped; no clutch is needed to do
this.
--
Lee Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill & Nancy wrote:
> > I was looking at the JC Whitney web site and found a small
> > heater unit with a fan for $29 that plugs in the cigarette
> > lighter. Has anyone used this unit for defrost or heat. It
> > states that it is not intended to heat the whole car. I was
> > thinking of buying one for a defroster.
Living in Minnesota, I've tried a number of things to deal with this
problem. Small heaters like this are a waste of time when it gets really
cold. They just don't deliver enough heat.
The fundamental problem is that car windows are just a single uninsulated
pane of glass. One side is very cold, and chilled by the air moving over it
as you drive. The other side is inside your car, where you are dumping
moisture into the air with your respiration. The inevitable result is fog
or ice on the windows.
There are some tricks that help. One is to make your windows double-pane,
by adding a thin plastic panel or film, spaced slightly away from the glass
to form a thin insulating air layer. They sell plastic panels to do this,
or you can buy 3M window insulating film, or just rig something up yourself.
I used to have a van with a very marginal heater. I cut a sheet of
semi-flexible plastic about the same size as the windshield, so that it
wedged into the space between dashboard and windshield at the bottom, and
in front of the rear view mirror and sun visors at the top. It was spaced
roughly 1/2" to 1" from the windshield. The defroster vents blew some of
their air between the plastic and windshield. This was amazingly effective
for such a simple device.
--
Lee Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Only one question this time:
Any guesses on how many amps I might be able to pull through top terminal 6V
sealed lead-acid batteries from an Uninterruptible Power Supply swapout? These
have a bolt that screws down into the connector.
Maybe one guess for starting and panic situations, and another guess for
continuous use?
My idea is that I should go with a contactor-controller setup that gives me a
resistor in series with four parallel strings of 36 volts each for starting, so
each battery will only need to supply a fourth of what I'm pulling overall. At
top speed, I would have two 72-volt strings in parallel. (*Today* I am
planning on a 72 volt system driving a 36v forklift hydraulics motor using
toothed belts with a fixed gear ratio that will let me get to 55 mph... with a
tailwind.) These are 5-year-old 85 lb 6V 180Ah Exide Marathon batteries.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
-Tim
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you are just talking about defrosting it while in the driveway, I have
had great luck with real space heater (About 1500 watts, 120VAC 60Hz) in my
old Edsel Wagon. I would run an extension cord out to the car, put the
heater in the back seat, and turn it on full blast and leave it there all
night. At first I worried it would start a fire, but it proved safe enough.
In the morning, there might be some snow or ice on the lower body panels,
but from the glass up it would be clear as well as toasty inside. (This was
in the middle of Indiana). Of course, you have to unplug and drive, and then
it would get cold.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
"I live in the heavens. I reside on mountain tops. I am at constant vigil
over thee. I monitor thy righteous ways. Thy levels art mine to command.
When thou art in trouble, I will help thee through distorted times. When
thou art low, the touch of my hand shall raise thy spirit to the proper
level. When thou are too high, I shall terminate thee with a swift stroke of
my sword. When thy wires are frayed and broken, my angels shall use solder
and iron to heal thee. Thou art the circuit, I am the chosen one, I am the
TECH CONTROLLER!"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2005 9:41 PM
Subject: RE: window defrost
Bill & Nancy wrote:
> I was looking at the JC Whitney web site and found a small
> heater unit with a fan for $29 that plugs in the cigarette
> lighter. Has anyone used this unit for defrost or heat. It
> states that it is not intended to heat the whole car. I was
> thinking of buying one for a defroster.
Living in Minnesota, I've tried a number of things to deal with this
problem. Small heaters like this are a waste of time when it gets really
cold. They just don't deliver enough heat.
The fundamental problem is that car windows are just a single uninsulated
pane of glass. One side is very cold, and chilled by the air moving over
it
as you drive. The other side is inside your car, where you are dumping
moisture into the air with your respiration. The inevitable result is fog
or ice on the windows.
There are some tricks that help. One is to make your windows double-pane,
by adding a thin plastic panel or film, spaced slightly away from the
glass
to form a thin insulating air layer. They sell plastic panels to do this,
or you can buy 3M window insulating film, or just rig something up
yourself.
I used to have a van with a very marginal heater. I cut a sheet of
semi-flexible plastic about the same size as the windshield, so that it
wedged into the space between dashboard and windshield at the bottom, and
in front of the rear view mirror and sun visors at the top. It was spaced
roughly 1/2" to 1" from the windshield. The defroster vents blew some of
their air between the plastic and windshield. This was amazingly effective
for such a simple device.
--
Lee Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ryan Bohm wrote:
By the way, I was looking into the Swiftech MCP350 pump. I had high
hopes for this pump. Otmar about made me cry when he mentioned his
reservations about this pump. It only has one bearing, and the
magnets keep the other side centered when rotating. Jarring can cause
crashing inside. Server racks don't get much jarring, but EVs do. I
guess others have had luck using this awesome little pump, but it
wouldn't be any fun to ruin a $70 pump in a year of driving.
The Swiftech 655 is a repackaged Laing D4 pump ("ecocirc"). One of the
applications mentioned on the Laing website is "Engine block circulating
systems." It retails for around $75.
The Swiftech 350 is a repackaged Laing "Delphi" pump, and the website
mentions that it's very much suited for computer use. I'm going to send
an email to Delphi about how this pump should hold up when exposed to
jarring in an automotive environment.
Here's an interesting thing I found on Ebay:
http://tinyurl.com/atm4x
From the listing:
"This auction is for *one* (1) MCP350 12VDC Swiftech pump (we are
selling another identical unit in a separate auction). *We were going to
use these pumps in a vehicle cooling application, but found that they
are not designed for the harsh vibrating environment of a moving
vehicle.* These pumps were run for approximately 2 minutes to determine
their suitability. They are in good working condition. Each pump was
testing for the same length of time."
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fse
arch.ebay.com%3A80%2F%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D8009100
421%26fvi%3D1&item=8009100421>
&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2F%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%
26satitle%3D8009100421%26fvi%3D1&item=8009100421
Anyone else see these? Sounds like a good start on an EV. EBay auction
item 8009100421
Jeff Wilson
USA (Ret)
Thou shalt not send me any thing which says unto thee, "send this to all
thou knowest." Neither shalt thou send me any spam, lest I smite thee.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Est. yearly US cost to safeguard Persian Gulf oil supply: $50 billion Est.
2001 value of US crude oil imports from Persian Gulf: $19 billion
-- Harper's Index, April 2002
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seems it is possible to change the gear ratios of VW Rabbits. I couldn't
figure out the page but maybe others can. Might be an advantage in hilly
driving conditions.
http://www.buyfromcarmart.com/vw-transmission-gear-ratio.html
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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My EV has the standard 9" motor with 144V battery. I have been agonising
over suitable regen schemes. The problem is once Vg<Vb there is no
further charging. My plan was to inject an adjustable current into a
decoupled field winding during the braking process. There would be
currents up to 400A. However it would be better to use an adjustable
upconverter on the armature. The converter would have short time rating
of about 20kW. Any thoughts on this scheme?
David
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On 10/22/05, Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I wanted to get a quieter and smaller pump for my zilla and it was
> friday.
> http://www.westmarine.com/
> They had 20 different models from 2 different manfactures of pumps. And
> I think this one is gonna be great.
>
> http://www.iboats.com/products/16/38845_jabsco_par_max_1_water_system_pump.html
Just a word of warning - that pump is pretty noisy, and takes a lot of
power for the volume of water it moves at a low pressure.
Still, you said "quieter" and I don't know what you had before..
Regards
Evan.
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On 10/23/05, Seth Rothenberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Now, about that Mazda - I found a guy who might give me
> a 1998 Nissan Altima as a trade for it.
> How does that sound? Google didn't find any EV conversions.
>
> The Altima has a curb weight 2859 lbs, which sounded good to me.
Still pretty heavy, and large, so not a wise choice for getting the
most out of your batteries. You can get something nearer to 2000lbs
that looks about the same (Honda Civic saloon).
> 3. Build an errands car for my wife, who currently drives
> to work alone 2 whole miles in a 6 cylinder minivan.
>
Dead easy on a small budget. You could make practically any car do
this on a few golf cart batteries and a surplus motor and controller
(especially if low speed is acceptable). Very low cost, and a good
way to learn.
However it would not take much more work to do a much more useful
conversion, although it will take more money.
> ** 1. Build a commuter car for me. **
> That's a tall order. I work 30 miles from home, via most direct route.
> The less crowded route is further. Thus, goal needs to be 70 miles RT.
So you need to either arrange to charge at work, or start saving for
expensive batteries. A safe conversion of this size of car with lead
acid (of any sort) is not going to do 70 miles every day at highway
speeds.
>
> I was thinking (and one of my interested friends thought of)
> solar cells to boost the distance. I need to read more about
> how much charge one might get out of a handfull of cells on
> the roof of the car.
Yes, you do :) Long story short: don't bother.
> Also, I want Regenerative braking.
> It appears that a DC motor is the cheap way to get that.
If you mean a series wound DC motor without interpoles (the cheap and
available kind), this is a poor way to get regen. The (Zapi)
controller and set of contactors needed to do it is more expensive and
not suited to a heavy car. The motor itself will not be happy as a
generator if you set it up for forward traction. And the gain in
range (unless you live in a very hilly area) could be almost
negligible.
A sep-ex DC motor and controller however, is ideal for regenerative braking.
Regards
Evan
--
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2/myev.html
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Hi Jeff, Evan and All,
Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
On 10/22/05, Jeff Shanab wrote:
> I wanted to get a quieter and smaller pump for my zilla and it was
> friday.
> http://www.westmarine.com/
> They had 20 different models from 2 different manfactures of pumps. And
> I think this one is gonna be great.
>
> http://www.iboats.com/products/16/38845_jabsco_par_max_1_water_system_pump.html
Just a word of warning - that pump is pretty noisy, and takes a lot of
power for the volume of water it moves at a low pressure.
I agree and not the right one for the job as the rubber impeller
types are not either.
The best are the rather small centrifical pumps with mag driven
impellers designed for water cooling of marine A/C's and refridgerators by
March, Teal, ect as they use little current, very quiet and last many yrs plus
not very expensive. Any other type just doesn't last long and you do not want
water pressure types at all. Avoid Par / Jabsco pumps as they are expensive,
low quality junk.
HTH's,
Jerry
Still, you said "quieter" and I don't know what you had before..
Regards
Evan.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
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In a message dated 10/22/05 7:54:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<<
I would like to race him. How many battery amps is the CE pulling? >>
^^^^ The Current Eliminator used a max of 480 battery amps on 10/22/05
running an ET of 11.95 at 115mph Dennis Berube
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Hi Tim,
What kind of EV are you doing? I've forgot.
Tim Stephenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Only one question this time:
Any guesses on how many amps I might be able to pull through top terminal 6V
sealed lead-acid batteries from an Uninterruptible Power Supply swapout? These
have a bolt that screws down into the connector.
Maybe one guess for starting and panic situations, and another guess for
continuous use?
My idea is that I should go with a contactor-controller setup that gives me a
resistor in series with four parallel strings of 36 volts each for starting, so
each battery will only need to supply a fourth of what I'm pulling overall. At
top speed, I would have two 72-volt strings in parallel. (*Today* I am planning
on a 72 volt system driving a 36v forklift hydraulics motor using toothed belts
with a fixed gear ratio that will let me get to 55 mph... with a tailwind.)
These are 5-year-old 85 lb 6V 180Ah Exide Marathon batteries.
Thoughts?
It's going to be hard to equilize all those batts as they are at the
end of their lives at that age. Good for training though as they will keep you
on your toes. ;^D
Studs are fairly bad but with several strings, probably ok. Use 1
nut under and one over so not to stress the bolt/lead connection. You can mold
different terminals on them with a little work.
Are they golf cart batts too? Or just UPS? Have you added up the
weight of that many batts? It seems excessive by a lot.
Jerry
Thanks!
-Tim
---------------------------------
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
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On Thu, 20 Oct 2005 17:06:17 +1000, "djsharpe"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
What do you all
think about topups? Im concerned that perhaps this gives EVs a bad name
or the driver appears to be a user! Has anyone ever bought power from a
gas stop to get home? There is no doubt that the batteries will be
better served by partials en route though.
David
I have 7 lawn coustermers that have easy axcess to 240 outlets , one a 50
amper for thire rv. Most days I will hit one of them . Most of these are in
spots where I have a few yards in the same spot , so by the time I'm done my
truck it full thanks to Rich's pfc 30 . On tuesdays I'll cut grass in the
morning 30 miles , then I drive to Okchoobee to my EV friends house to work
on EV's there 30 miles each way , then that night I have practice with a
jazz band I play with , another 25 miles , That's over 100 miles but with
opportunity charging I never go past %80 . I did have had one that wanted
me to give them $5 off the price of a cut , I passed on that one .
Steve Clunn
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Jerry Dycus noted: "...the weight of that many batts... seems excessive by
a lot."
Yes, my question is trying to address how much oomph I'm likely to get with
these batteries, so I can pack in enough for my commute. I fear I need to
put in lots more batteries so I can push all of those batteries around...
and (key point) get home. My budget is effectively zero until we pay off
debt, but I have a sympathetic forklift repair guy nearby who has offered a
motor and contactors, and a pal with a dead donor car for me. Thus "free"
batteries of ANY variety sound very attractive and may make the project
possible.
Jerry also asked, "What kind of EV are you doing? I've forgot."
I have a paper EV (as in "engineering pad" paper - not paper and epoxy). My
desire is to build the following:
Two front wheel non-tilting trike, with 2/3 weight in front and a lower
polar moment. One seater - me... at 400 lbs;
Probably with a long wheelbase Aerostar front suspension and frame rails
(one has been offered to me for free);
Contactor-controlled forklift hydraulics pump for motive power, via
toothed belts and jackshaft at trailing arm pivot;
Aerodynamic design as much as I can (airdam, truncated elongated
teardrop, smooth underneath, etc.)
See
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vortex3wheeler/message/3454?threaded=1 ;-)
Scavenged raked windshield and a cheap, light body skin (possibly
light ply/epoxy or coroplast or cloth-and-dope?);
Weight of the batteries is a major problem (as you noted);
Low RR tires (at least when I can afford them);
Batteries: if company bigshot agrees, I may get up to 240 six-volt 180
Ah top-terminal UPS backup batteries;
Each weighs 85 lbs, and they will replace at 6 years old (though the
web page I found suggests 12 yr UPS service life);
The model name is Marathon 6V180; these appear to be special order.
See a search on "6V 180 Marathon";
For help with equalization, I anticipate a collection of Lee Hart
Zener-lamp widgets;
My commute each WAY is 9 miles at 40-45 mph, 9 miles at 50-55, and 4 at
city speeds;
I doubt I'll be able to charge at work, but if they give me the
batteries, I may have a case;
Or I can pay for a power drop from the city, perhaps, at the edge of
our parking lot where they have a junction.
Thanks!
-Tim (who has dutifully chugged through 1/2004 through 3/2005 archives so
far, and still at it...)
> It's going to be hard to equilize all those batts as they are
at the end of their lives at that age. Good for training though as they will
keep you on your toes. ;^D
>
> Studs are fairly bad but with several strings, probably ok.
Use 1 nut under and one over so not to stress the bolt/lead connection. You
can mold different terminals on them with a little work.
>
> Are they golf cart batts too? Or just UPS? Have you added up
the weight of that many batts? It seems excessive by a lot.
>
> Jerry
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Tim
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.4/146 - Release Date: 10/21/05
>
>
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I have used one of these - they are slow, but do work for defrosting if you
are patient!
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill & Nancy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 12:33 PM
Subject: Re:window defrost
> I was looking at the JC Whitney web site and found a small heater unit
> with a fan for $29 that plugs in the cigarette lighter. Has anyone used
> this unit for defrost or heat. It states that it is not intended to heat
> the whole car. I was thinking of buying one for a defroster.
>
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2002937/showCustom-0/p-2002937/N-111+600002304+10201/c-10101
> Bill
>
>
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I am aware of two battery-powered, all-electric airplanes (that can carry a
human, i.e. *not* RC model airplanes): the Lange Antares
(www.lange-flugzeugbau.com/english/menu/menu-prod.htm) and
the Alisport Silent (www.alisport.com/eu/eng/silent_b.htm).
Also, as for solar-powered flight, the Swiss adventurer Bertrand Piccard
(the guy who first circumnavigated the globe non-stop in a hot air
balloon) is building a (manned) solar-powered airplane capable of flying
non-stop around the world, a feat he expects to attempt as the pilot
sometime around 2010, I believe. I don't have a link, but you can google
it.
Charles Whalen
On Thursday, October 20, 2005 6:48 PM, Brad wrote:
Is anyone familiar with work being done regarding fuel efficiency
improvements of personal or business aircraft? The incorporation of solar
electric or plug-in concepts within aviation is something that I've been
curious about for a long time and I'm very interested to chat with people
who are involved in this area. If anyone can advise about resources
related to alternative fuels for aviation, I would really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Brad
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2005 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: Volts rabbit conversion: Transmission fluid.
>
>
>
> > Got a Diesel Rabbit to convert to electric. 9 inch and rear battery box
> > already in. I'm assuming it is geared a little lower. What is a good
> > synthetic to use. I'm thinking Royal Purple, Amsoil or Redline might be
> > options. What works well and lasts. Protecting the tranny would be
nice
> > too.
Hi Lawrence;
Welcome to the club! The VW Diseasel Rabbit conversion one! I ran just
Auto trans fluid, the wine colored stuff EVerybody else seems to use in
auto-trannies. When I helped my kid change a tranny, 4 speed, on a Chevy
S-10 I drained the fluid, expection to get the heavy sludge that I am used
to in trannies, Surprise! The red stuff poured out! I called my friendly
Chevy place to ask if this was right? They sed that it was, EVen thou the
truck was a Diseasel, didn't make any differance. You S-10 Pilots out there,
arent yours oiled with Auto tranny fluid? I guess you could go with that
expensive stuff J Wayland uses in the Zombie? Hey! John, what was that stuff
ya had me hunt down in PDX for the Zombie , before the LAST time I was out
there??Would ya use it in a Rabbit trannie??Good wnough to protect the
Zombie's dif, would be able to take Bunny gears in stride?
As for gear ratios, I don't remenber any differance in performance, as I
played musical transmissions with it, had a 5 speed(best) and a 4 right now.
Have a 5 speed out of a GTI Bunny to try. The 5 speed will give ya over 80
with a 120 volt system, allowing you to actually PASS stuff on the
freeway!Don't go crazy, or you'll be walking home<g>!Did about 250 amp,
balanced out at 80 on one of the very FEW relatively leval streatches of the
Connecticut Turnpike! Probably coulda done more 'cept for the $%^& hills!
Another thought; VW Jetta rear drums and backing plates are a nice bolt
on upgrade for your brakes. If you wanna carrry on in this mode I have seen
the bigger discs from a GTI rabbit, ya need to go to 14 inch wheels to get
them in, though. The GTI aluninum wheels would dress it up a bit, too. I
never gott that far with mine.Just ideas, talk to your local VW garu-es.
You can use the Diseasel vacuum pump, too. pull off the helical gear,
refit with a large 4-5 inch pully, make a mounting bracket and mount it on
the front, you DO have a shaft on thre comm end?)Small pully, as the motor
goes plenty fast to work the pump. Run a cheepo plastic tube up to the
vacuum booster, yur all set! Car's used to that pump anyhow. Belt the pump
to the motor. You wanna use a light as possable belt to avoid hugh belt
tension, to wear out the sleave bearings, as threy arent designed with side
thrust in mind. They turn easy, very little drag.You can actually BUY new
diaphrams for these pumps EVen! Any VW parts guy has them! Because these are
splash lubed on the Diseasel, you hafta give them a squirt of oil, when your
consience gets to you. I added a grease fitting to the plate, under the
crankshaft on mine. If it goes dry it will remind you with squeeling, I just
crawl under and pull the belt, and grease or oil it when I get home!!
I can hear the growns of the vacuum pump set, but whatthehell it works!
Cheep, too!Quiet, you cut a few inches of rubber hose, stick it on the
"Exhaust, stuff that with cut up scrubby pads! Voila! Nio "Oink Oink" sound
that compressers and vacuum pumps often say! A tip of the hat to Tony
Ascrizzi for that one!
Seeya
Bob
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