EV Digest 5104
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) MOTOR INSTALLED Alaska Update
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Magnet isolation?
by "England Nathan-r25543" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: 1231C and Lynch motor
by Steve O <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Stripped Terminal
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: 1231C and Lynch motor
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Fluke Fluky?
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Stripped Terminal
by Steve O <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: MOTOR INSTALLED Alaska Update
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Dragracing top 3
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: MOTOR INSTALLED Alaska Update
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: What are the Specifications of the BB600?
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Stripped Terminal
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: NEDRA Class Definitions
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: NEDRA Class Definitions
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
15) Re: Stripped Terminal
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Do/Did Edison Batteries emit Hydrogen gas?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Stripped Terminal
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: 1231C and Lynch motor
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) NEDRA Charter Violation (was: Battery Beach Burnout and NEDRA
Class Def)
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: NEDRA Class Definitions
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Dragracing top 3
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) evworld article re nanoLi batts with some performance testing results
by Mike Ellis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: 1231C and Lynch motor
by paul wiley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) One day away till Battery Beach Burnout
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: NEDRA Class Definitions
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- Begin Message ---
I wanted to let you know my progress with the 1986
Toyota pickup 4wd
My friend and I pulled the engine two nights ago, and
today we got the War P 9" installed with the
electroauto adapter plate. I didn't drive it yet,
because I need to add trany fluid, and finish the
brackets.
Here's some thoughts.
1- We removed the engine and left the trany in the
truck. My reason for this was I didn't want to deal
with taking out the tranaxle of the 4wd system. Doing
this is really hard, because there were these top
engine bolts that were hard to get to.
2- I was prepared because I purchased a new pressure
plate and clutch plate, but when I opened it up, I
disovered the old stuff was in very good shape.
3- I took the ring gear off the flywheel. Not as easy
as I though, but I just banged around until it came
off. However it was more difficult to tighten the
flywheel bolts. Then I realized that I could attach
some angle iron to where the pressure plate goes and
that held it in place.
4- Even though I had a pre-made adapter plate, I was
caught off guard with the need for engine bolts. Which
way should they go? Should the bolt start at the motor
and the nut on the tranny. I used 2 of the same bolts,
but I had to get 4 new bolts. I used all grade "8.8"
metric. Then I saw that the orginal had split washers,
that were not springy any more. I went with flat
washers that would rest on the aluminum plate.
5- I got some angle iron from some bed frames. I've
cut it up so I can run one bar each across the engine
mounts, and then run another two bars from the front
holes (which are 5/16" thread) to the other bars.
Thanks all!
Mike
Fairbanks, AK
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thank you Jim and Rich for the replies, I feel much better now about all
these "shorts" I was warned about and now I will be educating someone
else.
One more thing, laminated shoes versus cast, I am sure the laminated
ones are better because the extra time and work was not done for fun but
how much better?
Thanks again,
Nathan England
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jim Husted
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 7:16 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Magnet isolation?
Hey Nathan
This is untrue, and well actually just the opposite. I've been taught
the importance of making sure that the pole shoes make good contact with
the housing. Meaning not to paint or coat the inside areas where they
meet the housing. The screw contact is a mute point compared to the
inner surfaces being in contact with each other through the motors
housing. Now if any two copper components (windings, leads, etc.) touch
(ground) any metal (pole shoes, housing, aluminum plates, etc.) then you
will have a short causing the motor to work improperly or not at all.
Man I hope I don't have 25 years of warranties coming back 8^ )
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
England Nathan-r25543 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I am just checking to see what other EV folks know, I was told that
the bolts holding the shoes to the side of the motor case are supposed
to be insulated from the motor case because it is a magnetic short from
one shoe to another. I don't know enough to validate or disclaim this
idea and no one else around me knows either.
Thanks.
Nathan
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Photos - Showcase holiday pictures in hardcover
Photo Books. You design it and we'll bind it!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi TiM
My research suggested that the LEM 2x2 is OK - this is "in effect" 2 Lynch
motors in series. This provides enough induction for the Curtis to operate
with. I think a single motor may not - so I'm led to believe.
As far as the wiring is concerned - I asked you that question so you aren't
allowed to ask me! As far as I can see you wire bat +ve to B+ and Motor +ve.
You wire Bat -ve to B- on the curtis. Then motor -ve to the bottom left hand
connection (can't remember its code!!). I'll let you know if it works!!
Steve
TiM M <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Can a Curtis 1231C controller be used with a Lynch
motor? If so, where could I find a wiring diagram for
it?
TiM
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill,
Yes, the thread on 200Ah cells is M8x1.25 (ah, feels so good
specifying this :-) )
It would be very hard to find such a bolt which will reach the bottom
of the terminal just when you tighten it hard enough.
What I'd suggest is to use threaded studs (cut off the bolt head).
You put the stud in first, screwing it all the way in so you utilize
every thread toward bottom that remains good. Tighten the stud, but not
too hard, it will tough the bottom of the terminal. *Then*, you put the
lug/strap on it and use a nut+split washer to tighten it to the
terminal.
Victor
--
'91 ACRX - something different
Bill Dennis wrote:
I took a closer look at the terminal threads, and it appears that the
outermost threads are stripped, and that the bottommost threads are ok. If
I put the bolt in by itself, it seems to eventually engage the bottommost
threads and get tight. But once I put the lug between the bolt and
terminal, I think that the bolt doesn't get long enough to reach the bottom
threads. Tomorrow I'll try buying a slightly longer bolt. They appear to
be M8 x 1.25 -- can anyone else with TS cells confirm that dimension?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 1/19/06, TiM M <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Can a Curtis 1231C controller be used with a Lynch
> motor?
I used a Lynch motor with a 1221B controller at 120V, I made a series
inductor to add some inductance though.
> If so, where could I find a wiring diagram for it?
In the manual.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill,
connect a fixed resistor (about 470k) to the leads of your ~10Meg input
impedance Fluke and repeat your measurements. All readings better be
about zero. 470k resistance between leads will dominate all leakage
paths (unless you have gross surface contamination) and will bring
each point you measure to the chassy potential (for truly floating clean
pack).
Victor
Bill Dennis wrote:
As Jimmy Stewart said in "It's a Wonderful Life," -- "Somebody's off his
nut!" Here's the situation. Last night I had a circuit in the kitchen go
dead, so I poked around with my Fluke 77 in AC mode, and even after I
disconnected wires from the receptacle and turned off the main circuit
breaker, I was reading 3 volts or so between hot and neutral, so I figured I
had a ground fault that was tripping the GFI. I took the countertop apart
to look at the wires in the wall (island), but couldn't find any problem.
So then I just replaced the GFI and, voila!, everything worked. So why was
the Fluke reading 3V AC?
Then tonight, I finally got all the TS cells hooked up in my conversion. JI
measured if there was any voltage between the pack and the chassis. To my
surprise, there was: about 1.25V. I went from cell to cell, measuring
between it and the chassis. Each reading was around .05V less than the
previous cell. Finally I came to a cell in the back of the car that read 0V
between itself and the chassis. But I've looked and looked, and there is no
way that anything from that cell is touching the body of the car.
Any ideas what's happening?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yup Yup,
I have used the M8 threaded stud idea. I chopped my studding to 3.5cm and
screwed them in (using 2 nuts obviously). You get the feel of it bottoming out.
The 2 cm or so sticking out the top is enough for my braided bars a washer, a
nut, my battery monitoring then another nut on top!!
30cells - 60 pieces of studding - none failed so far.
Now I've set myself up for a fall. I'll not delete these helicoil emails just
yet!!
Steve
Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Bill,
Yes, the thread on 200Ah cells is M8x1.25 (ah, feels so good
specifying this :-) )
It would be very hard to find such a bolt which will reach the bottom
of the terminal just when you tighten it hard enough.
What I'd suggest is to use threaded studs (cut off the bolt head).
You put the stud in first, screwing it all the way in so you utilize
every thread toward bottom that remains good. Tighten the stud, but not
too hard, it will tough the bottom of the terminal. *Then*, you put the
lug/strap on it and use a nut+split washer to tighten it to the
terminal.
Victor
--
'91 ACRX - something different
Bill Dennis wrote:
> I took a closer look at the terminal threads, and it appears that the
> outermost threads are stripped, and that the bottommost threads are ok. If
> I put the bolt in by itself, it seems to eventually engage the bottommost
> threads and get tight. But once I put the lug between the bolt and
> terminal, I think that the bolt doesn't get long enough to reach the bottom
> threads. Tomorrow I'll try buying a slightly longer bolt. They appear to
> be M8 x 1.25 -- can anyone else with TS cells confirm that dimension?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike,
Great job. Its good to hear you are moving on. I just took the
measurements to make sure my transmission goes back in the right place.
However I wasn't really sure if I was actually going to pull it out.
Knowing what you found I'll probably leave mine in for the same reasons. I
however don't have a pre-made adaptor plate. I sent one more e-mail to
Electroauto hoping I'd hear back on a lead time for an adaptor for the '88
Mitsu 2.6L KM145 5spd 4WD tranny. I am going to proceed with my plan to
fabricate my own and if they respond with a favorable time line I'll
probably take it. However I'm fully prepared to start cutting on my own.
So let me ask you, did you hook up a battery and spin it up to check
alignment? Is there any play in the adaptor and plate that would let you
tap it around if there were any minor vibrations? I'll need to figure out
the tolerances on my bolt holes if I wind up making my own.
Did you get your motor with a tail shaft? Is reusing the attached power
steering pump still an option or are you going with the armstrong power
steering for now?
Great news, thanks for updating us. I'm stoked now. I'll probably pull my
engine this weekend so I can get a trace on the bellhousing.
Mike,
Anchorage, AK
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of mike golub
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 11:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: MOTOR INSTALLED Alaska Update
I wanted to let you know my progress with the 1986
Toyota pickup 4wd
My friend and I pulled the engine two nights ago, and
today we got the War P 9" installed with the
electroauto adapter plate. I didn't drive it yet,
because I need to add trany fluid, and finish the
brackets.
Here's some thoughts.
1- We removed the engine and left the trany in the
truck. My reason for this was I didn't want to deal
with taking out the tranaxle of the 4wd system. Doing
this is really hard, because there were these top
engine bolts that were hard to get to.
2- I was prepared because I purchased a new pressure
plate and clutch plate, but when I opened it up, I
disovered the old stuff was in very good shape.
3- I took the ring gear off the flywheel. Not as easy
as I though, but I just banged around until it came
off. However it was more difficult to tighten the
flywheel bolts. Then I realized that I could attach
some angle iron to where the pressure plate goes and
that held it in place.
4- Even though I had a pre-made adapter plate, I was
caught off guard with the need for engine bolts. Which
way should they go? Should the bolt start at the motor
and the nut on the tranny. I used 2 of the same bolts,
but I had to get 4 new bolts. I used all grade "8.8"
metric. Then I saw that the orginal had split washers,
that were not springy any more. I went with flat
washers that would rest on the aluminum plate.
5- I got some angle iron from some bed frames. I've
cut it up so I can run one bar each across the engine
mounts, and then run another two bars from the front
holes (which are 5/16" thread) to the other bars.
Thanks all!
Mike
Fairbanks, AK
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Woo Woo 1, 2 and almost 3
This time tomorrow should see all three at the top.
This is a good show :-D
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Cor van de Water
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 9:52 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Dragracing top 3
Exactly 300 votes for the electric Mazda to get even with the
current 2nd placed SVX (only 203 votes for the electric Nissan)
I think we'll make the top 3 with all 3 electrics by Wednesday!
Now back to my truck.
I need to get a charger going and found all 3 VFD's dead.
So that's why they were such a cheap lot "used - as is".
I'm using one as full bridge rectifier (240V AC => 330V DC)
and have added a 60V lab supply to get up to 390V DC. Ugly.
Oh well, first check out the wiring on the rear lights and
close the battery boxes and rewire the loose wires under the hood
and where did that power steering pump wire go again?
Hope to be driving this week, keep your fingers crossed.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 5:22 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Votes - how are we doin' ?- Current Eliminator
In a message dated 1/12/06 5:22:23 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< I wish Dennis had submitted his Current Eliminator.
How about it Dennis? I'll ship a BLDC blower or pump
for free
if you submit the CE. Most are 13.8Vdc or 27.6Vdc,
I'll
sends specs if your interested.
Rod
>>
Thanks Rod for thinking of the Currenteliminator as a possible contender.I
would like to see her up there someday when I can duplicate or exceed its
record,for now the car is just another bracket racer. She
is racing
at speedworld today. Pinkslip the show is filming at
speedworld today also.
Next weekend 2- $5000.a day bracket races
Last weekend average
reaction time .0047 over 7 passes Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I didn't turn it on yet, because there was no fluid in
the tranny. Is it OK to add gear oil at the shift
lever?
Yes, there is play in the adapter plate, and I was
trying to figure why. Gee more work!
I'm a little worried, because I was following the
directions, "if your hub has a brass pilot bushing,
lube it with a thin layer of molybdenum based grease."
Was I supposed to installed a pilot bearing as well?
That clutch plate alignment tool fit very snug in
there, and didn't seem to have any room for one?
Yeah, driving at -30F with no power steering really
freezes my hands. Maybe I can add an electric heater
to the steering wheel ;)
I have the tail shaft, so who has the pulley that fits
on the tail shaft?
--- Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Mike,
> Great job. Its good to hear you are moving on. I
> just took the
> measurements to make sure my transmission goes back
> in the right place.
> However I wasn't really sure if I was actually going
> to pull it out.
> Knowing what you found I'll probably leave mine in
> for the same reasons. I
> however don't have a pre-made adaptor plate. I sent
> one more e-mail to
> Electroauto hoping I'd hear back on a lead time for
> an adaptor for the '88
> Mitsu 2.6L KM145 5spd 4WD tranny. I am going to
> proceed with my plan to
> fabricate my own and if they respond with a
> favorable time line I'll
> probably take it. However I'm fully prepared to
> start cutting on my own.
>
> So let me ask you, did you hook up a battery and
> spin it up to check
> alignment? Is there any play in the adaptor and
> plate that would let you
> tap it around if there were any minor vibrations?
> I'll need to figure out
> the tolerances on my bolt holes if I wind up making
> my own.
>
> Did you get your motor with a tail shaft? Is reusing
> the attached power
> steering pump still an option or are you going with
> the armstrong power
> steering for now?
>
> Great news, thanks for updating us. I'm stoked now.
> I'll probably pull my
> engine this weekend so I can get a trace on the
> bellhousing.
>
> Mike,
> Anchorage, AK
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of mike golub
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 11:02 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: MOTOR INSTALLED Alaska Update
>
>
> I wanted to let you know my progress with the 1986
> Toyota pickup 4wd
>
> My friend and I pulled the engine two nights ago,
> and
> today we got the War P 9" installed with the
> electroauto adapter plate. I didn't drive it yet,
> because I need to add trany fluid, and finish the
> brackets.
>
> Here's some thoughts.
> 1- We removed the engine and left the trany in the
> truck. My reason for this was I didn't want to deal
> with taking out the tranaxle of the 4wd system.
> Doing
> this is really hard, because there were these top
> engine bolts that were hard to get to.
>
> 2- I was prepared because I purchased a new pressure
> plate and clutch plate, but when I opened it up, I
> disovered the old stuff was in very good shape.
>
> 3- I took the ring gear off the flywheel. Not as
> easy
> as I though, but I just banged around until it came
> off. However it was more difficult to tighten the
> flywheel bolts. Then I realized that I could attach
> some angle iron to where the pressure plate goes and
> that held it in place.
>
> 4- Even though I had a pre-made adapter plate, I was
> caught off guard with the need for engine bolts.
> Which
> way should they go? Should the bolt start at the
> motor
> and the nut on the tranny. I used 2 of the same
> bolts,
> but I had to get 4 new bolts. I used all grade "8.8"
> metric. Then I saw that the orginal had split
> washers,
> that were not springy any more. I went with flat
> washers that would rest on the aluminum plate.
>
> 5- I got some angle iron from some bed frames. I've
> cut it up so I can run one bar each across the
> engine
> mounts, and then run another two bars from the front
> holes (which are 5/16" thread) to the other bars.
>
> Thanks all!
>
> Mike
> Fairbanks, AK
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
__________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 05:53 PM 1/17/2006, john bart wrote:
I'm looking for the specifications of the BB600 nicad battery,
mostly concerned with the weight. I am judging that each cell will
weigh 4 pounds, as im calculating weight for a go kart that is in
construction. Does anyone have a accurate figure on the weight of
these cells? Thanks for any info.
There are 2 different manuals for BB600's on the Yahoo BB600 group files area.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Have you given any thought to using a piece of threaded rod ? Screw it into
the hole, jammed tightly, then use a nut. You could make it any length you
like. Just a thought.
Dave
From deep within our secret soul
do demons dwell and take their toll
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 7:01 PM
Subject: Re: Stripped Terminal
10:00 P.M.
Bill,
I just measured one of the bolts (from my bin of spare hardware and cell
interconnects). It is M8 by 15 mm long (threaded part under the head). I
remember when I did my connecting of the 200 A-hr cells 2 1/2 years ago
that these bolts were too short, and I risked stripping the threads since
the bolt gripped too few threads if the washer and lock washer were used
with the TS braided interconnects. consequently, I installed most without
the lock washers, rather than risking that. The next longer bolt
available might be too long unless extra washers or terminals for BMS,
etc., would be used.
Best Regards,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 8:48 PM
Subject: RE: Stripped Terminal
I took a closer look at the terminal threads, and it appears that the
outermost threads are stripped, and that the bottommost threads are ok.
If
I put the bolt in by itself, it seems to eventually engage the bottommost
threads and get tight. But once I put the lug between the bolt and
terminal, I think that the bolt doesn't get long enough to reach the
bottom
threads. Tomorrow I'll try buying a slightly longer bolt. They appear
to
be M8 x 1.25 -- can anyone else with TS cells confirm that dimension?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ken Trough posted:
To review the new class descriptions, check out the relevant NEDRA
page:
http://nedra.com/class_rules.html
[EMAIL PROTECTED] responded:
Since the rules are so much different than they used to be, have you
folks figured out how the previous record holders will fit into these
new classes?
Ken Trough responds now:
Yes the new classes are different. That's because we have not had any
significant detail in the class descriptions to date for the
organization. We are trying to build NEDRA into a professional
organization with clear organization, classifications and divisions.
It's not that new difficulties have been added for racers, rather new
opportunities for record setting have been added.
The class definitions are an evolving process that will be refined as
time goes on. We are talking all feedback and all suggestions to the
rules committee for consideration. Not just feedback from NEDRA members,
but from the interested public, or "future NEDRA members" as I like to
call them.
Also, we are working hard to get the old record holders refit into the
new classes right now, as you well know, Bill.
Bill is on the record here and with NEDRA that he does not approve of
parts of the new rules definitions. Many of his suggestions were
incorporated into the new class descriptions, and some ultimately were
not. All were considered.
The new class descriptions were ultimately a double democratic process,
first in the rules committee and then with the board of directors prior
to approval and posting. They will continue to be refined as time goes
on.
If you have any comments either pro or con regarding the new class
definitions, the new voltage divisions, or anything else, I will be glad
to forward them to the appropriate party in the NEDRA organization.
-Ken Trough
Public Relations Director, NEDRA
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 1/19/06 5:00:10 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Subj: Re: NEDRA Class Definitions
Date: 1/19/06 5:00:10 AM Pacific Standard Time
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Ken Trough)
Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-to: [email protected]
To: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Ken Trough posted:
>> To review the new class descriptions, check out the relevant NEDRA
>> page:
>>
>> http://nedra.com/class_rules.html
[EMAIL PROTECTED] responded:
> Since the rules are so much different than they used to be, have you
> folks figured out how the previous record holders will fit into these
> new classes?
Ken Trough responds now:
Yes the new classes are different. That's because we have not had any
significant detail in the class descriptions to date for the
organization. We are trying to build NEDRA into a professional
organization with clear organization, classifications and divisions.
It's not that new difficulties have been added for racers, rather new
opportunities for record setting have been added.
The class definitions are an evolving process that will be refined as
time goes on. We are talking all feedback and all suggestions to the
rules committee for consideration. Not just feedback from NEDRA members,
but from the interested public, or "future NEDRA members" as I like to
call them.
Also, we are working hard to get the old record holders refit into the
new classes right now, as you well know, Bill.
Bill is on the record here and with NEDRA that he does not approve of
parts of the new rules definitions. Many of his suggestions were
incorporated into the new class descriptions, and some ultimately were
not. All were considered.
The new class descriptions were ultimately a double democratic process,
first in the rules committee and then with the board of directors prior
to approval and posting. They will continue to be refined as time goes
on.
If you have any comments either pro or con regarding the new class
definitions, the new voltage divisions, or anything else, I will be glad
to forward them to the appropriate party in the NEDRA organization.
-Ken Trough
Public Relations Director, NEDRA
** Ken, >>
When making your new rules for nedra ck out the NHRA rules with detail,(are
any nedra board members current nhra members?)for these are the rules everyone
must ultimately abide by at there local track.Our local track techs.oftentimes
let us SKATE on tech but if there is an accident we all could pay.Besides
safety,would it be fair to all those future racers trying for a record to run
say
low 11s and claim the record(by carrying less weight) in a class but not have
the required safety equiptment(rollbar/cage ect.)?
While building the S10 street/drag truck I have been surprised at all
the rules I must follow to run just 11.50et.For instance A rollbar system
passes from 11.50 until you get to 10.99 then a full cage is mandated.
BE
SAFE BE FAIR Dennis Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
or put a stud and thread it all the way down , make it foem some threaded
rod ,
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 12:04 AM
Subject: Re: Stripped Terminal
On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 18:48:20 -0700, "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
I took a closer look at the terminal threads, and it appears that the
outermost threads are stripped, and that the bottommost threads are ok.
If
I put the bolt in by itself, it seems to eventually engage the bottommost
threads and get tight. But once I put the lug between the bolt and
terminal, I think that the bolt doesn't get long enough to reach the
bottom
threads. Tomorrow I'll try buying a slightly longer bolt. They appear to
be M8 x 1.25 -- can anyone else with TS cells confirm that dimension?
It'll just strip again. Go ahead and get some M8 Helicoils from your
friendly local auto parts store and fix it permanently. Get some red
loctite while you're there and coat the helicoil on the outside before
you insert it. This will lock the coil in place.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo
Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart
>> They had glass cases, which lasted forever if not broken. The plates
>> were also bolted together, and so easy to disassemble for putting in
>> new separators.
Neon John wrote:
> No. At least Edison's weren't. A photo of a salesman's sample from
> the Henry Ford Museum:
>
> http://www.johngsbbq.com/Neon_John_site/RV/Trips/henry_ford_museum_2004/sli
>des/IMG_1576.html
That must be an early sample. The production cells I saw in Baker and Detroit
EVs, and industrial pallet trucks all had glass cases.
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you use a bolt that is too long and overtighten it, (like forget
about it then come along a year later to tighten the terminals), the
threads will be jacked out. If you Tighten the bolt into where the
threads taper, removeing that bolt may "cut" the threads out of the hole
when you remove that bolt. Here is an idea. Put a stud in the battery
and tighten it in. Then all your wrench work is against the stud's
threads not the cell's. Removing the first couple of threads of the
stud to allow it to tighten against the bottom of the hole is also used
so the stud isn't loose, but doesn't damage the threads in the cell.
This is automotive techniques, Not sure how it applies. If the stud is
considered as only a mechanical part and the surface of the post is the
conductive part, I could see putting locktight(removable kind) on the
stud and not jambing it tight against the bottom.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
TiM M wrote:
> Can a Curtis 1231C controller be used with a Lynch motor?
> If so, where could I find a wiring diagram for it?
Yes, it will work. But you may find that the Lynch has so little inductance
that the controller's current limit doesn't work smoothly. This means the
motor will start with a "lurch" and be noisy at low speeds. This can be fixed
by adding an inductor in series with the motor (a half dozen turns of heavy
wire on a laminated iron core).
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I simply asked why they didn't follow the simple rules of the NEDRA
charter. The charter is in place to prevent abuses by the NEDRA officers.
Notice that the question was never answered.
As a NEDRA member, you have a right to comment on new rules for 30 days
before they go into effect. This is not difficult to accommodate and is
required under the NEDRA charter. Why wasn't it done?
The old class rules were in place for 7 years. What is the problem with one
more month? If the members are happy with the new class rules, we are all
set. Why didn't Rod and Ken want to allow the NEDRA members a chance to
comment on the rules? The NEDRA board is there to serve the members, not
the other way around.
The rules they published DID NOT pass a vote of NEDRA board. (A much
earlier version was voted on with a tie vote.) These rules (as written)
would NOT have passed a vote, so Rod and Ken "skipped" that charter
requirement. How long would a NEDRA board vote have taken? A day?
I am not the only NEDRA board member upset by all this. I'm just the only
one speaking out. Don't shoot the messenger.
At 12:28 AM 1/19/2006, you wrote:
YO BILL!!
Wake and smell the changes...
What a way to drag your feet!!!!
Get with it or Stay on the porch.
Finally NEDRA is trying to make some improvements...
LET them.
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: Battery Beach Burnout
> Since the rules are so much different than they used to be, have you folks
> figured out how the previous record holders will fit into these new
classes?
>
> If you don't have the record books all figured out in time, how will you
> know if the competitors at this race have set a record?
>
> Isn't it against the NEDRA charter to issue new rules without a 30 day
> member comment period?
>
> At 09:02 PM 1/17/2006, you wrote:
> >> It was good to hear that Matt worked out some Gremlins before the
> >> event so lets all hope for some fast slips for him this Friday. Sounds
> >> as if the hard work will show more fruit with a new 100 MPH member this
> >> weekend. Maybe even give Wayland a run for his money by Joliet??
> >
> >Yeah. That's really good news. I read that there were about 15
competitors
> >announced so far. That is really fantastic! I sure wish I could make it.
> >I'll have to settle for Chip's play by play like every one else. 8^)
> >
> >Also, let me remind those who are still on the fence about attending that
> >we have two new street classes and two new voltage divisions in NEDRA and
> >that means a lot of new records waiting to be set. One of the most
> >exciting opportunities lies in the new Street Conversion "daily driver"
> >class. Never before have daily drivers had a protected class to compete
> >in. Now they will be able to race against their peers instead of being
> >stacked up against the "pro-street" racing teams.
> >
> >We added two new voltage classes on the high end so that all the new
> >higher voltage machines are not lumped together. The technology is
> >advancing and we are trying to be responsive to the vehicles that are
> >showing up at the events as well as planning for the vehicles we expect
to
> >show up in the future.
> >
> >The Battery Beach Burnout is the first opportunity for these new classes
> >to be utilized and the new records to be set. Good luck to all the
competitors!
> >
> >To review the new class descriptions, check out the relevant NEDRA page:
> >
> >http://nedra.com/class_rules.html
> >
> >
> >-Ken Trough
> >Public Relations Director, NEDRA
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dennis, this is one of those occasions when we both are in agreement (mostly.)
While being severely beat up by Ken and Rod, I managed to get a few items
tossed out of these new rules before they were published. One of them was a
BAN on roll bars and roll cages in the SC class, where you were planing to
compete. As you know, this would have set the lower ET limit in that class
at 11.99.
After this, when I pointed out the number of cars that would have lost
their records and would be unfairly tossed into the MC class from the SC
class, they created the PS class, (but not until they beat me up pretty bad
for pointing out the problem.)
When making your new rules for nedra ck out the NHRA rules with detail,(are
any nedra board members current nhra members?)for these are the rules
everyone
must ultimately abide by at there local track.Our local track
techs.oftentimes
let us SKATE on tech but if there is an accident we all could pay.Besides
safety,would it be fair to all those future racers trying for a record to
run say
low 11s and claim the record(by carrying less weight) in a class but not have
the required safety equiptment(rollbar/cage ect.)?
While building the S10 street/drag truck I have been surprised at all
the rules I must follow to run just 11.50et.For instance A rollbar system
passes from 11.50 until you get to 10.99 then a full cage is
mandated. BE
SAFE BE FAIR Dennis Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey all
I too enjoy my morning vote! Being one who likes to watch ICE melt I check
in several times though out the day 8^ ). I've been watching Matt's and Rod's
climb closely and in fact Rod had been gaining on Matt and was within 96 votes
of Matt, but I see Matt has increased that lead back to over 100. I'm pretty
close to all three of these guys and put me three votes in every day. Being
the 3 will soon be at the top I'll be curious to see how many become one or two
voters to ply their favorite to the higher spot.
I've also been curious about what % of the votes are list members vs. general
public voters. Face it, now it's a battle of the EV's. Way to go everyone in
showing the support these guys deserve and need.
Cya all
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Woo Woo 1, 2 and almost 3
This time tomorrow should see all three at the top.
This is a good show :-D
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Photos
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays,
whatever.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.evworld.com/view.cfm?section=communique&newsid=10734
*Nano-based Lithium Battery for Hybrids A Step Closer*
Source: Market Wire
[Jan 18, 2006]
*SYNOPSIS: Altair Nanotechnologies *Lithium Ion
Battery<http://www.evworld.com/view.cfm?section=communique&newsid=10734#>
* Cells Exceed HEV Power Requirements of U.S. FreedomCAR*
RENO, NV -- (MARKET WIRE) -- 01/17/2006 -- Altair Nanotechnologies Inc.
(NASDAQ:
ALTI<http://studio.financialcontent.com/Engine?Account=iwire&PageName=QUOTE&Ticker=ALTI>)
today announced that its battery research and development team successfully
completed a testing program for lithium ion battery cells containing
Altairnano's nano-structured lithium titanate electrode materials.
"The test results demonstrated that the performance of these lithium ion
battery cells exceed the system-level power requirements set forth by the
U.S. Council for
Automotive<http://www.evworld.com/view.cfm?section=communique&newsid=10734#>Research
FreedomCAR Energy Storage System Performance Goals for hybrid
electric
vehicle<http://www.evworld.com/view.cfm?section=communique&newsid=10734#>(HEVs),
as well as those requirements published by major
U.S. automakers,"
(can view those reqs at These power requirements can be viewed at:
www.uscar.org/consortia&teams/consortiahomepages/con-usabc.htm )
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: TiM M wrote:
> Can a Curtis 1231C controller be used with a Lynch motor?
> If so, where could I find a wiring diagram for it?
Yes, it will work. But you may find that the Lynch has so little inductance
that the controller's current limit doesn't work smoothly. This means the
motor will start with a "lurch" and be noisy at low speeds. This can be fixed
by adding an inductor in series with the motor (a half dozen turns of heavy
wire on a laminated iron core).
Lee, Does this include the Etek motor as well? What about the Alltrax
controllers, should i do this to? Aren't Alltrax and Curtis close in design?
THanks
Paul
---------------------------------
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Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays,
whatever.
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--- Begin Message ---
Hey all
I bet all you racers are in freak mode now arn't you, lmao! Although I will
not be able to attend I have 2 small motors that will be flying the Hi-Torque
colors there, and well I've been crawling out of my skin all week as the date
approaches. God I hope today goes by fast as I just don't know how much more
waiting I can stand! Hope everyone has a great time. be fast, be safe, and
best of luck to all.
Cya all
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
---------------------------------
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Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays,
whatever.
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--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 1/19/06 6:49:58 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Subj: Re: NEDRA Class Definitions
Date: 1/19/06 6:49:58 AM Pacific Standard Time
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-to: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Dennis, this is one of those occasions when we both are in agreement
(mostly.)
While being severely beat up by Ken and Rod, I managed to get a few items
tossed out of these new rules before they were published. One of them was a
BAN on roll bars and roll cages in the SC class, where you were planing to
compete. As you know, this would have set the lower ET limit in that class
at 11.99.**If the SE10 only runs 11.99 I will give it away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
**I am not planing to run in any nedra class,but I am planning to run as
quck as super gas(9.99)someday,so I am building the S10 brick to comply.Before
the end of this year I expect the SE10 to run 10.50 with lead,so having just a
rollbar would be a waste of effort and money.**Dennis Berube
After this, when I pointed out the number of cars that would have lost
their records and would be unfairly tossed into the MC class from the SC
class, they created the PS class, (but not until they beat me up pretty bad
for pointing out the problem.) >>
--- End Message ---
