EV Digest 5572
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: No load DC motor behavior
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Circuit breaker question
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) more field weakening stuff
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) BASIC Stamp 2 on sale
by "Matthew D. Graham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: voltage limit 144
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: stainless steel & battery acid?
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: No load DC motor behavior
by "Lewis, Brian K" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: boo to smithsonian
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Circuit breaker question
by "Rick Todd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: BASIC Stamp 2 on sale
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: The PROPER - and inexpensive - DC/DC Converter
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: Circuit breaker question
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: boo to smithsonian
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Circuit breaker question
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Circuit breaker question
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Circuit breaker question
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Circuit breaker question
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Lost another one: Palo Alto Agilent EV charging site
by bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: Circuit breaker question
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Circuit breaker question
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: watthour meter AC side
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: one for the Sinclair C5 owners...
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: boo to smithsonian
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) BB600 pack is charged.
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: BASIC Stamp 2 on sale
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: ACkwhr meter
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Ev volks
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: BASIC Stamp 2 on sale
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: BB600 pack is charged.
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) RE: BASIC Stamp 2 on sale
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) No load DC motor behavior
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: ACkwhr meter
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
Or, you can add a small shunt winding to the series motor. The shunt
winding is connected across the armature, to provide at least a weak
field so the motor won't overspeed. This is common in industrial EVs.
This also has the benefit of increasing the field strength under high
load conditions, thus slowing the motor down. The Elec-traks use this
and you can feel the difference in going up a hill in forward (when the
action will increase the field strength) and reverse (when the same
action will decrese the field strength.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rick Todd wrote:
> So that everyone knows I do sell Siemens type breakers brand
> new
So, what does Siemens offer in the 250A and up range with a DC rating?
All I could find with a DC rating is the CQD (250VDC, 14kAiR for a
2-pole), but it looks to be available only in 15-100A sizes.
The other detail that might come into play is that the Heinemann
breakers are hydraulic-magnetic, and so their trip point/curve is
relatively unaffected by temperature. However, the Siemens (and the
Square D breakers I mentioned earlier) are thermal-magnetic, which means
they will trip a lower currents when hot.
Still, if Siemens has something with potential for EV use it would be
good to know about it so people have more choices... Heinemanns aren't
exactly cheap either! ;^>
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
Since it is hot outside, 103 deg and I have a couple hrs to kill before I go to
my shift, I did some Patent searching on 'series motor field weakening' and
came up with this...
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/search.pl?p=1&srch=xprtsrch&sf=1&query=series+motor+field+weakening&uspat=on&date_range=last20&stemming=off&sort=relevance
The link will wrap and so here is a smaller one.
http://tinyurl.com/pbmlz
The link has lots of good patents on motor controllers and field weakening.
There patents to GM, Ford, Matsushita, among others. There are lots of logic
circuit diagrams, block diagrams and detailed explanations that might be useful
in general.
hth,
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey everyone,
Just wanted to put a heads up out there for anyone interested in getting
into BASIC Stamps. The Parallax site (www.parallax.com <www.parallax.com> )
is running a sale this weekend and every BS2 is on sale for $49. So if you
were thinking about picking one up, you'd save $30 - $40 on a 24-pin or
40-pin BS2. The Professional Starter Kit for the 40-pin BS2 is discontinued,
but it looks like you can pick up the Demo board for programming for just
$29 ($60 off) http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=45187
<http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=45187>
So if you were going to climb that ladder anyway, now's the time to step on
that first rung!
Matt Graham
300V "Joule Injected" Nissan
http://www.jouleinjected.com <http://www.jouleinjected.com>
Hobe Sound, FL
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Definitely put those 2 batteries back in for an easy upgrade.
Long term you could look at a 1000+ amp controller -- driving an S-10
with a DCP 1200 was distinctly nicer compared to a DCP 600 as it had
much more oomph when starting up (especially noticed at stop lights on
hills or when hauling heavy loads).
And/or long term with a new controller and new batteries, you could also
raise the voltage some more. As others have noted, the motor can take
more than its nameplate rating. And since batteries always sag under
load, the motor will never see the nominal pack voltage. When above a
180 or 192 volt battery pack, using the Zilla's voltage limit protects
the motor anyway.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
When I purchased my S10, the owner had put in 156 Volts of Trojan's.
That's the limit on the DCP 600.
The FB1-4001 Advanced DC 9" has a rated limit of 120-144 Volts. So, for
other reasons I pulled out two batteries.
I have an interest in a little more power. Would one reccomend against
putting these two batteries back for 156V?
The previous owner used the truck for 2 months at this voltage. If I
continued at this higher voltage, over time,
1. Would the motor have problems that it would not otherwise have at 144
Volts?
2. Am I hurting efficiency?
3. At 156, am I not gaining the power I think I would be?
Thanks, Ben
--
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak's
1997 Solectria Force
1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So I'm probably better off sticking with regular steel and trying to
keep it sealed off from the acid rahter then splurging on 316 SS. Thanks.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
To answer the question, absolutely ... it is a matter of what the
concentration of acid (sulfuric or hydrochloric), the grade of and
texture of the steel, and how long of an exposure. If there is a way to
either glass line or coat the steel with plastic you may prevent the
acid from reducing the steel.
Lee Hart wrote:
Jim Coate wrote:
The acid in flooded lead acid batteries will eat way at regular steel.
But how about stainless steel? Will it get destroyed too? Does it matter
if 304 or 316 etc.?
304 is a low grade stainless; 316 is better.
However, "stainless" will still rust/corrode if there is leakage current
flowing between it and some other terminal.
--
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak's
1997 Solectria Force
1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Several times I have accidentally press the peddle with my manual
transmission in neutral. The Motor did spin up very quickly but it
does make a very recognizable sound that I can easily detect before
reaching a destructive speed. So I back off the throttle and wait until
it slow down. I am not using the clutch so I have to wait until a more
reasonable RPM before putting it in gear.
So as the owner/builder of the car who knows what all the auditory clues
are it is not a problem. If I let my wife drive it may be a different
story.
They do make RPM limiting devices. I had one at one time but stop using
it.
-Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Seth Myers
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 9:36 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: No load DC motor behavior
I'm a newbie, but have reasearched a bit and know some Sparrow owners.
I am considering a traditional ev conversion, with clutch, existing
(manual) gearset, etc.
The question I have is about the noted behavior of dc motors while under
no load conditions, i.e. if you are out of gear/clutch is depressed, and
you hit the gas:
DC motors under no load are supposed to take off or go out of control.
Is this,
in practical experience, a problem, or, can it be idiot-proofed somehow
so this never happens (aside from just driving intelligently, of
course)?
Curtis "C" series controllers operate at a reduced 1.5 kHz switching
frequency up
to 10% of throttle demand - preventing jerky starts, etc. Does this
help with the no load DC motor behavior situation at all?
Thanks,
Seth Myers
(in the style of L. Hart:)
"This life's dim windows of the soul,
distort the world from pole to pole,
and causes one to believe a lie,
when one sees with, and not through, the eye"
- William Blake
(found it from material from www.rzim.org, got to quote it for my vision
system thesis)
- 99 diesel Beetle running on B20 (oops, wrong list!), may try to make
my own with
www.localb100.com as otherwise I have to drive 30 miles just to find a
bio (and only B20) pump
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What a scandal. Lawrence Rhodes.........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peri Hartman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "evdl" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 7:40 AM
Subject: boo to smithsonian
> fyi - Peri Hartman
>
> http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/national/1155AP_Electric_Car_Booted.html
>
> Friday, June 16, 2006 ยท Last updated 6:49 a.m. PT
> Smithsonian removes electric-car exhibit
> THE ASSOCIATED PRESS
>
> (photo omitted)
> General Motors Corp. will initially lease, but not sell the EV1, the
> company's electric car, shown in this undated handout file photo, company
> officials said Tuesday, Aug. 27, 1996. (AP Photo/HO)
>
> WASHINGTON -- Just weeks before the release of a movie about the death of
> the electric car from the 1990s, the Smithsonian Institution has removed
its
> EV1 electric sedan from display.
>
> The National Museum of American History removed the rare exhibit
yesterday,
> just as interest in electric and hybrid vehicles is on the rise. The
> upcoming film "Who Killed the Electric Car?" questions why General Motors
> created the battery-powered vehicles and then crushed the program a few
> years later. The film opens June 30th.
>
> GM happens to be one of the Smithsonian's biggest contributors. But museum
> and GM officials say that had nothing to do with the removal of the EV1
from
> display. A museum spokeswoman says the museum simply needed the space to
> display another vehicle, a high-tech SUV.
>
> The Smithsonian has no plans to bring the electric car back on view. It
will
> remain in a Suitland storage facility.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There are actually a couple choices when it comes to Siemens DC. The CQD
breaker is a Din rail mounted breaker and is used in many international
applications. And you are correct it only comes in 15-100A.
The breaker that would be most common for EV would be the FD6 Series of
breaker amperage range is 70-250A (example FXD62B250), the 2P version is
rated for up to 250VDC the 3P version is rated for 500VDC. If a higher
amperage is needed you may move up to the JD2 Frame which is 200-400A rated
250VDC or the JD6 frame which is 500VDC (example JXD22B400).
If you are concerned about heat you can get the above breakers in a magnetic
trip only without the thermal trip unit. They are specifically for motor
load applications.
Both breakers have adjustable trip settings for instantaneous so if you
start rolling with the EV and it trips the breaker, just crank up the trip
settings and you will be good.
Both breaker information manuals can be downloaded from our website under
downloads.
http://petersonpanel.com/download.htm
Hope this helps Roger!
-Rick
PS. There is also a new fusible pullout that just came out which may be of
interest to the fuse people. Up to 400A 300VDC for class T fuses.
Peterson Electric Panel Mfg. Co.
Department of Engineering
5550 McDermott Dr.
Berkeley, IL 60163
Phone (708) 449-2270
Fax (708) 449-2269
Website www.petersonpanel.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Roger Stockton
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 3:02 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: RE: Circuit breaker question
Rick Todd wrote:
> So that everyone knows I do sell Siemens type breakers brand new
So, what does Siemens offer in the 250A and up range with a DC rating?
All I could find with a DC rating is the CQD (250VDC, 14kAiR for a 2-pole),
but it looks to be available only in 15-100A sizes.
The other detail that might come into play is that the Heinemann breakers
are hydraulic-magnetic, and so their trip point/curve is relatively
unaffected by temperature. However, the Siemens (and the Square D breakers
I mentioned earlier) are thermal-magnetic, which means they will trip a
lower currents when hot.
Still, if Siemens has something with potential for EV use it would be good
to know about it so people have more choices... Heinemanns aren't exactly
cheap either! ;^>
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Alternatively, you can pick up the same CPU in a flash version from
Mouser for $1.06. Also, pick up a serial port programmer for $18
(including shipping). Finally, get a PIC C compiler for free from
htsoft -- it has limited capability, but it works for me. If you're up
to doing it in assembler, there are plenty of free PIC assemblers, as
well as programmer driving software.
There are several devices from Microchip in the < $5 range that don't
require any external circuitry (like a crystal), just power.
CPU: http://tinyurl.com/p6adb
Programmer: http://tinyurl.com/m36ao
C compiler: http://tinyurl.com/8qd9h
Matthew D. Graham wrote:
Hey everyone,
Just wanted to put a heads up out there for anyone interested in getting
into BASIC Stamps. The Parallax site (www.parallax.com <www.parallax.com> )
is running a sale this weekend and every BS2 is on sale for $49. So if you
were thinking about picking one up, you'd save $30 - $40 on a 24-pin or
40-pin BS2. The Professional Starter Kit for the 40-pin BS2 is discontinued,
but it looks like you can pick up the Demo board for programming for just
$29 ($60 off) http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=45187
<http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=45187>
So if you were going to climb that ladder anyway, now's the time to step on
that first rung!
Matt Graham
300V "Joule Injected" Nissan
http://www.jouleinjected.com <http://www.jouleinjected.com>
Hobe Sound, FL
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Between the battery and the converter you should have 12v current that will
outlast your main pack. Just do the math. I suspect at 1 amp the
battery/dc-dc converter combo will outlast the main pack. Lawrence
Rhodes.....I
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: The PROPER - and inexpensive - DC/DC Converter
> > But the question IS: is there a better DC/DC, or less expensive, with
> > an output round 12 to 15 amps ? ? ?
> >
> Hmm, www.electricmotorsport.com offers a 48V to 12V @ 10A DC/DC for $25.
> It's designed for electric Scooters. Not quite the current you are
> looking for, but perhaps you could use two of them?
>
> --
> If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
> junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
> wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
> legalistic signature is void.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rick Todd wrote:
> Hope this helps Roger!
Most certainly does; thanks!
That fusible pullout sounds interesting too; John Wayland is/was using
something that sounds similar as an emergency disconnect in the White
Zombie, but as I recall his unit was obtained surplus. Good to know
where a source for new ones is.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Washington Post article is pretty timely because we've been in
discussions with the Smithsonian for the past month to move the EV1
#660 to a new location while they renovated the building for a new
exhibit.
As a matter of fact on Tuesday and Wednesday before the Post article
came we were in touch with the curators of the Smithsonian and
another museum to find a new home for it. The new museum has
discussed the move with their directors and have pretty much approved
it but apparently the Smithsonian has a moratorium on loaning
"artifacts" to other museums. We are trying to work around that and
work with their loan office to move the car.
As all this was happening, on Tuesday construction crews put up
partitions around the car so its no longer in public view.
This particular EV1#660 is actually intact. The Smithsonian wanted an
EV1 that was original without any wires cut or components removed,
however they did request that the batteries be removed. If the car's
batteries were back in the car would run.
If it's not moved to another location it will sit at the Smithsonian
warehouse in Suitland Maryland where only historians or researchers
will have access to the car.
The Smithsonian also owns the GM Sunraycer which is also in storage.
We are trying to get both vehicles moved to another location ASAP but
with all the beaurocratic hoops involved it may take awhile.
GM was/is a major sponsored of the exhibit. The display placards
describing the car would make your stomach wrench. This is how we
became involved in the first place. We felt there was so much
disinformation in the display we couldn't let it go without making
the curators know the untruths GM had put in the display. Then we
found out the display was being moved. Its been one thing after another.
Another unfortunate chapter for the EV1.
Chip Gribben
Electric Vehicle Association of Washington DC
http://www.evadc.org
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: June 16, 2006 12:35:02 PM EDT
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: boo to smithsonian
Hi All, Please let The Smithsonian know how you feel. Here is their
email address, [EMAIL PROTECTED] I already wrote them but I can not say
what I wrote on this list. Suffice it to say that I was more than a
little dismayed and disappointed with the action they took.
Roderick Wilde
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Typically, the HEINEMANN GJ1-B3-DU0250-01C breaker is used in EV
applications -- They can break up to 10,000A @ 160V.
GJ = Breaker Series
1 = Single pole
B = Freq: DC, Rear terminals
3 = Series Trip
DU = Rating, UL 489
0250 = 250A
01 = Time Delay is "Long"
If you keep an eye on Ebay -- I got an GJ1P-B3-P-E-DU-250-01 (GJ1P/Rear
terminal/Series Trip/No Shunt/Bus Bar connect/UL-489/250A/Long ) there
for $30, new in box, with hardware.
Dave Cover wrote:
I need to clear up some of my confusion over circuit breakers. I'm hoping to
put a circuit breaker
in the middle of my pack. This will be in the back of the car and allow me to
split the pack when
I need to work on things. I'd prefer having a circuit breaker I can reset
instead of replacing
fuses. I will have a higher rated fuse near the controller as an additional precaution.
I've seen a DC circuit breaker that is rated for sufficient amperage, but the
voltage rating is a
little low. It's rated for 125 volts DC, but can I still use it if the pack
voltage is double
that?
Also, if I can get a 3 pole breaker for a good price, does it matter if I'm
only using one of the
three poles? It has an AC and a DC rating, sufficient for the task. If I split
the single line to
run through all three poles, does that triple the current needed to trip the
breaker? Dumb
questions for some of you, but for me ....
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One more question, what does the series indicate? Trip curve? What's the
difference between series
1 and series 3?
--- Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Rick Todd wrote:
>
> > Hope this helps Roger!
>
> Most certainly does; thanks!
>
> That fusible pullout sounds interesting too; John Wayland is/was using
> something that sounds similar as an emergency disconnect in the White
> Zombie, but as I recall his unit was obtained surplus. Good to know
> where a source for new ones is.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Roger.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here's a used Heinemann for $8: http://tinyurl.com/mbfvz
GJ1-B2-DU 250 amp, 125volt, DC, delay 3
Unfortunately, they delay is much too short for EV use -- as little as 1
second @250A, whereas the 01 delay low end is 100 seconds.
Eric Poulsen wrote:
Typically, the HEINEMANN GJ1-B3-DU0250-01C breaker is used in EV
applications -- They can break up to 10,000A @ 160V.
GJ = Breaker Series
1 = Single pole
B = Freq: DC, Rear terminals
3 = Series Trip
DU = Rating, UL 489
0250 = 250A
01 = Time Delay is "Long"
If you keep an eye on Ebay -- I got an GJ1P-B3-P-E-DU-250-01
(GJ1P/Rear terminal/Series Trip/No Shunt/Bus Bar
connect/UL-489/250A/Long ) there for $30, new in box, with hardware.
Dave Cover wrote:
I need to clear up some of my confusion over circuit breakers. I'm
hoping to put a circuit breaker
in the middle of my pack. This will be in the back of the car and
allow me to split the pack when
I need to work on things. I'd prefer having a circuit breaker I can
reset instead of replacing
fuses. I will have a higher rated fuse near the controller as an
additional precaution.
I've seen a DC circuit breaker that is rated for sufficient amperage,
but the voltage rating is a
little low. It's rated for 125 volts DC, but can I still use it if
the pack voltage is double
that?
Also, if I can get a 3 pole breaker for a good price, does it matter
if I'm only using one of the
three poles? It has an AC and a DC rating, sufficient for the task.
If I split the single line to
run through all three poles, does that triple the current needed to
trip the breaker? Dumb
questions for some of you, but for me ....
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Eric Poulsen wrote:
> Typically, the HEINEMANN GJ1-B3-DU0250-01C breaker is used in EV
> applications -- They can break up to 10,000A @ 160V.
While Heinemann suggests they can interrupt 10kA @ 160VDC, the standard
(UL) maximum voltage rating is 10kA @ 125VDC for this part.
The 2/3 pole GJ2/3 version is rated 10kA @ 125VDC/250VDC (250VDC
presumably with 2 or more poles in series).
> If you keep an eye on Ebay -- I got an GJ1P-B3-P-E-DU-250-01
The GJ1P parts are rated 10kA @ 160VDC, but this voltage rating remains
the same no matter how many poles the breaker has since the poles are
hardwired in parallel.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The EV charging listing on page:
http://www.evchargernews.com/regions/94306_3.htm
has been requested that it be removed. That Agilent site has been
sold and is closing. That site has been advised that the local SF
EAA would be available to remove their AVCON charging head if the
new owner is not interested in it.
Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
' ____
~/__|o\__
'@----- @'---(=
. http://geocities.com/brucedp/
. EV List Editor, RE & AFV newswires
. (originator of the above ASCII art)
===== Undo Petroleum Everywhere
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dave Cover wrote:
> One more question, what does the series indicate? Trip curve?
> What's the difference between series 1 and series 3?
I'm going to guess that you are referring to what Eric wrote:
> GJ = Breaker Series
> 1 = Single pole
> B = Freq: DC, Rear terminals
> 3 = Series Trip
> DU = Rating, UL 489
> 0250 = 250A
> 01 = Time Delay is "Long"
The "3" in this case means "series trip" and refers to the internal
configuration of the circuit breaker. Series trip refers to the
internal current sense element being electrically in series with the
switch contacts. There is no value of "1" for this parameter.
If you are referring to the "GJ1" vs "GJ2" vs "GJ3" portion of the part
number, this identifies the number of poles that the breaker has (1, 2,
or 3, repectively).
Finally, if you are referring to the last bit of the part number "-01",
this specifies the trip curve for the breaker. "01" is a long delay
curve intended to avoid nuisance trips in motor applications and works
well for EV applications. "03" is a short delay curve and is unlikely to
work well in an EV because the breaker will open quickly when its rated
current is exceeded rather than riding out the brief high current
excursions typical in EV use.
Hope this helps,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dave,
I would think that a simple Anderson disconnect would be more than adequate if
you only want to split the pack voltage when you are working on the system. Why
go for the added expense of a breaker when an Anderson disconnect is under $20?
Just size the Anderson to the pack voltage and amperage.
HTH,
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 10:13 AM
Subject: Circuit breaker question
>I need to clear up some of my confusion over circuit breakers. I'm hoping to
>put a circuit breaker
> in the middle of my pack. This will be in the back of the car and allow me to
> split the pack when
> I need to work on things. I'd prefer having a circuit breaker I can reset
> instead of replacing
> fuses. I will have a higher rated fuse near the controller as an additional
> precaution.
>
> I've seen a DC circuit breaker that is rated for sufficient amperage, but the
> voltage rating is a
> little low. It's rated for 125 volts DC, but can I still use it if the pack
> voltage is double
> that?
>
> Also, if I can get a 3 pole breaker for a good price, does it matter if I'm
> only using one of the
> three poles? It has an AC and a DC rating, sufficient for the task. If I
> split the single line to
> run through all three poles, does that triple the current needed to trip the
> breaker? Dumb
> questions for some of you, but for me ....
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave Cover
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 14 Jun 2006 at 17:36, John Luck Home wrote:
> Can anyone explain why a message I posted on 5th June takes 9 days to
> appear on the list - other messages I post don't seem to get to the list at
> all
> and yet others appear quickly.
>
> Is there an "extra" time delay for European posters ??
I don't know, but I don't think it's because you're in Europe.
Some delay is inevitable now and then, because as I understand it the
listserver is running at a somewhat lower priority than other tasks on the
server. However, these delays are typically on the order of minutes or
perhaps tens of minutes, not days.
I suspect that longer delays, when they happen, are caused by mail routing
problems. In this case the headers in your post indicate that that SJSU
didn't receive the message until the 14th :
Received: from smtp-out2.blueyonder.co.uk (smtp-out2.blueyonder.co.uk
[195.188.213.5]) by hestia.sjsu.edu (8.12.10/8.12.10) with ESMTP id
k5EG5XIG006781 for <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>; Wed, 14 Jun 2006 09:05:34 -0700
(PDT)
We do have another list member from Australia who's having problems getting
through. At the moment it's unclear whether his messages aren't getting to
the server, the server's messages aren't getting to him, or both. I don't
know whether that's related though. I have a query in to the SJSU support
crew about it, and I've mentioned this matter too. I'll post back when I
hear something.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joe Stevenson, who published (publishes?) Solar Mind in Ukiah CA, had a few
of these on offer in the late 1980s. I was sorely tempted. However, at the
time I was driving a C-car and looking for something that suited my needs
better. The C5 would've been a step in the wrong direction for me.
Pretty cool little bug though.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 16 Jun 2006 at 12:32, Michael wrote:
> The promotter of this new film is really playing this like a fiddle, isn't he?
Of course! It's his film. If you were he, what would >you< do?
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, after a week of evening charges, the 252 cell BB600 pack is
charged. Ending voltage is 368 volts, which is just a hair under 1.5
volts per cell.
I did a check of the water levels on the first 126 cells (half the pack)
in about 20 minutes. Not that big of a deal, about 5 of them needed a
bit of water, and one needed a bit more water.
I will finish off the charge tomorrow with a 30 minute topping off
charge followed by a checking of the remaining cells.
Getting closer. Next step is to figure out this blown DC-DC converter.
Then to sit down and plug in the e-meter.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Eric Poulsen wrote:
> Alternatively, you can pick up the same CPU in a flash version from
> Mouser for $1.06. Also, pick up a serial port programmer for $18
> (including shipping). Finally, get a PIC C compiler for free from
> htsoft -- it has limited capability, but it works for me. If you're up
> to doing it in assembler, there are plenty of free PIC assemblers, as
> well as programmer driving software.
This may work for you, but not for anyone just getting started up that
learning ladder. You have to know how to solder, design a circuit, write
assembly or C code, and do your own testing and debugging.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What's your budget?
--
Martin K
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Yup, I am back to the house meter concept.
I wanted an onbard AC kwhr meter (small) so that I could measure my power
useage at work. However, if I have a separate one at home, I can figure my
charger efficiency and calculate based on emeter the AC power useage at
work.
I did get a response from a company who makes a small cheap one,
http://www.prodigit.com.tw/e2000m.htm
However, to make a unit that handles my needed 20 Amps (7 more amps), they
would be looking for an order of more than a few.
Any distributors on this list who want to distribute these?
Otherwise, I'll go with option 1, and wait a few more years for a
cheaper, higher current, small ACkwhr meter.
Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Congrats. It sounds like the low cost option is working out well for you.
So, you are getting the 45MPH and 25 mile range? Did ya'll put in new batts,
or are you still running older batts?
I look forward to seeing how it works with balancing the batts, and using
the "stupid" controller. (I had one of those and set my timer a bit too
high, so it locked into full charge for a couple days. It wasn't pretty.
<g>)
----- Original Message -----
From: "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Michael" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 9:35 PM
Subject: Re: Ev volks
> My needs were/are for an affordable LOW SPEED vehicle to travel to
> and arround town. I decided on an electric vehicle but wanted it to
> be street legal and not an NEV or LEV or golf cart.
>
> The vehicle is not pristine .... http://tinyurl.com/oqp3g
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'll throw another one in the fire:
<http://olimex.com/>
Many dev. boards and programmers.
I understand the part of your comment about writing C or assembly
(someone would have to read the MCU datasheet!) but as far as soldering
and designing a circuit goes, the victim would have to do the same for a
BASIC stamp as they would for any modern MCU. Most MCUs run with just
+5v, ground, and i/o. There are also OOPics that run a bastardized OO-Basic.
--
Martin K
Lee Hart wrote:
Eric Poulsen wrote:
Alternatively, you can pick up the same CPU in a flash version from
Mouser for $1.06. Also, pick up a serial port programmer for $18
(including shipping). Finally, get a PIC C compiler for free from
htsoft -- it has limited capability, but it works for me. If you're up
to doing it in assembler, there are plenty of free PIC assemblers, as
well as programmer driving software.
This may work for you, but not for anyone just getting started up that
learning ladder. You have to know how to solder, design a circuit, write
assembly or C code, and do your own testing and debugging.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 16 Jun 2006 at 20:54, Christopher Zach wrote:
> 252 cell BB600 pack
You, sir, are a glutton for punishment. That is a daunting number of
connections to make. Congratulations on surviving the installation. I hope
you get to leave those cells in their boxes for a long, long time.
Keep us apprised.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please use evadm at drmm period net.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Although the BASIC Stamp may cost more, it has a plethora of easy to
understand circuits, articles and books - great for anybody getting started
in micro-electronics. The extra $50-80 for a STAMP is well worth these extra
downloadable books (free to download from the parallax site).
The STAMP is a great stepping stone to more complex processors, programmers
and programming languages.
Don
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Eric Poulsen
Sent: June 16, 2006 2:23 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: BASIC Stamp 2 on sale
Alternatively, you can pick up the same CPU in a flash version from Mouser
for $1.06. Also, pick up a serial port programmer for $18 (including
shipping). Finally, get a PIC C compiler for free from htsoft -- it has
limited capability, but it works for me. If you're up to doing it in
assembler, there are plenty of free PIC assemblers, as well as programmer
driving software.
There are several devices from Microchip in the < $5 range that don't
require any external circuitry (like a crystal), just power.
CPU: http://tinyurl.com/p6adb
Programmer: http://tinyurl.com/m36ao
C compiler: http://tinyurl.com/8qd9h
Matthew D. Graham wrote:
> Hey everyone,
>
> Just wanted to put a heads up out there for anyone interested in getting
> into BASIC Stamps. The Parallax site (www.parallax.com <www.parallax.com>
)
> is running a sale this weekend and every BS2 is on sale for $49. So if you
> were thinking about picking one up, you'd save $30 - $40 on a 24-pin or
> 40-pin BS2. The Professional Starter Kit for the 40-pin BS2 is
discontinued,
> but it looks like you can pick up the Demo board for programming for just
> $29 ($60 off) http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=45187
> <http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=45187>
>
> So if you were going to climb that ladder anyway, now's the time to step
on
> that first rung!
>
> Matt Graham
> 300V "Joule Injected" Nissan
> http://www.jouleinjected.com <http://www.jouleinjected.com>
> Hobe Sound, FL
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://cvevs.jfs-tech.com/dsc00022.jpg
This happened in the fraction of a second to shift gears. I completed
the shift, but the throtle cable was sticky and hesitated. you cannot
hear the rpm, I think brush noise is reduced at high rpm, only the
aftermath can be heard (and my colorfull language).
The zilla has an rpm sensor, to shut it down if it goes over. Too bad
mine is still in the box. This may also be a strong argument to have
something attached to the aux shaft. an Air conditioner or alternator or
power-steering and vacumm pump.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I already have a 120vac meter and a 240vac meter.
Mike
--- Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> What's your budget?
> --
> Martin K
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> >Yup, I am back to the house meter concept.
> >I wanted an onbard AC kwhr meter (small) so that I could measure my
> power
> >useage at work. However, if I have a separate one at home, I can
> figure my
> >charger efficiency and calculate based on emeter the AC power useage
> at
> >work.
> >
> >I did get a response from a company who makes a small cheap one,
> >http://www.prodigit.com.tw/e2000m.htm
> >However, to make a unit that handles my needed 20 Amps (7 more
> amps), they
> >would be looking for an order of more than a few.
> >Any distributors on this list who want to distribute these?
> >
> >Otherwise, I'll go with option 1, and wait a few more years for a
> >cheaper, higher current, small ACkwhr meter.
> >
> >Ben
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Here's to the crazy ones.
The misfits.
The rebels.
The troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.
The ones who see things differently
The ones that change the world!!
www.RotorDesign.com
--- End Message ---
