EV Digest 5596
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: EV1 GONE- Smithsonian writes back again!
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Clicking on an electric S10
by "EVRIDER" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: 300ZX Hybrid
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Clicking on an electric S10-Part 2
by "EVRIDER" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Clicking on an electric S10
by John Norton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: 300ZX Hybrid
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: 300ZX Hybrid
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Clicking on an electric S10
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Used and Surplus Motors
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: 300ZX Hybrid
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Oscar buzz for "Who Killed the Electric Car"
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) How many EVs are there?
by "Jay Caplan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: A VERY Green Day on Greenwood Av. (long)
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Clicking on an electric S10
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Power of DC - Pics
by "Doc Kennedy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: [EV1-CLUB] Lotus Elise Group Discusses the Film
by "Darell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Power of DC - Pics
by "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Smithsonian to remove EV1 Display
by "Steve" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Lotus Elise Group Discusses the Film
by Marc Geller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: 300ZX Hybrid
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Regen on RWD
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: 300ZX Hybrid
by "Jody Dewey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: 300ZX Hybrid
by "Jody Dewey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re:found:94 chevy s10 us electricar truck
by "mike young" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) New Who Killed The Electric Car clips
by "Dr. Polsinelli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: found:94 chevy s10 us electricar truck
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Clicking on an electric S10-Part 2
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) All About EV
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
On 27 Jun 2006 at 13:42, Charles Whalen wrote:
> Saw "An Inconvenient Truth" last night.
One more time : please don't discuss controversial issues that are not
directly related to EVs on this list.
> take me out back and flog me!
Hmm, tempting ... nope, sorry, too busy today.
Any volunteers? ;-)
> take five and lighten up, dude.
Thanks. I appreciate the advice.
As anyone who knows me will attest, I'm a wild-eyed, tense, uptight
individual, a coiled spring, about to go posta ... oops, I mean "lose my cool"
at any moment. ;-)
Now let's get back to talking about EVs!
David Roden
EV List Assistant Administrator
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Christopher,
With or without 4WD, and as an EV, I assume it is NOT 4WD, for General Motors
Chevrolet and GMC S10, you will hear a light clicking noise as the gears in the
differential are overrunning themselves and allowing the wheels to
differentiate in a turn. This is true for front and rear. The break pads tend
to 'rock' when moving since they are essentially free when the front calipers
are released, as Lawrence stated.
This can also be as simple as a bad hub, or a faulty u-joint in the drive line.
If you can't locate the source of the noise yourself, have someone walk
alongside of the truck as you take off, and see if they can pinpoint where the
ticking is coming from. Many times, what you seem to be hearing inside of the
vehicle, can be transmitting, or echoing down a drive line, or other component,
and will seem to be coming from a location other than the actual source.
Good Luck.
-EVRIDER
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Over-spinning might not be too big of a problem, if my math is correct. The
Z's 15-inch wheels do 849 revs per mile. So at 80 mph, that would come to
1132 rpm. Multiplying by the 3.6:1 differential ratio gives a little over
4000 rpm, which an ADC or Warp should be able to handle--provided the chosen
motor could provide enough power to get up the hill at 40 mph.
Instead of pulleys, would it work to hang the motor down from the chassis,
cut a chunk out of the middle of the driveshaft, and attach to each end of
the motor via a universal joint?
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Dymaxion
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 12:58 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: 300ZX Hybrid
There was a guy that put pulleys and belts on the driveshaft of a
Subaru, and put the electric motor above the driveshaft. The original
ICE drivetrain was otherwise untouched. You would have to be careful
you didn't overspeed the electric motor, since you would probably
want to gear it for about 0 to 80 mph.
Another minimally invasive thought is to do a mild hybrid, basically
an oversized alternator that also pushes the motor. Then you get the
advantage of the tranny's torque multiplication, but the downside
that the gas motor always has to spin.
--- Bill Dennis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> My wife has asked me if I can turn our 1986 300ZX (5-speed manual)
> into a
> hybrid after I finish converting my current EV. Her goal is to be
> able to
> drive it to work and back daily using electric mode only, switching
> to ICE
> mode for longer trips only. Her daily round trip commute is around
> 12
> miles, the final part entailing a 5.5 mile uphill climb where the
> speed
> limit is 40 mph.
>
> The 300ZX is a rear-wheel drive vehicle, I believe, with around a
> 3.6:1
> ratio in the differential. Any thoughts on how best to make such a
> hybrid?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dave and Christopher,
Just a note from another mechanic (who despises this particular job),
On the S-10, if they are the OEM (factory original) U-joints, they are actually
mounted in with a plastic injection type of joint. Aftermarket joints go in a
usual, and come out with a c-clamp, but the GM OEMs have to be MELTED out using
a torch, heating until the plastic literally melts and "spurts" out of the
holes around the cups. Fun fun! The advice is right on and if it's not the
breaks, I bet it is dried cup/needle bearings as well.
Thought I'd chime in again.
-EVRIDER
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 27 Jun 2006 15:49, David Dymaxion wrote:
I'd guess u-joints, but have you checked the rearend and tranny have
enough oil?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 8:19 AM
Subject: Clicking on an electric S10
> Somewhat EV related: I took the S10 out for an unlicensed "drive"
last
> night. One thing I noticed was a clicking sound coming from under
the
> middle of the car in forward, but not reverse.
>
My guess is speedo cable if that model year doesn't use sensors.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill Dennis wrote:
> Instead of pulleys, would it work to hang the motor down from
> the chassis, cut a chunk out of the middle of the driveshaft,
> and attach to each end of the motor via a universal joint?
This would certainly work, if you have enough distance (length) between
the tranny and rear end (which I doubt). It is certainly one of the
first approaches I would consider if doing this to a pickup.
In your case, I suspect there isn't enough space available to do this;
the driveshaft between the motor and diff will end up very short and
running at an extreme angle.
I suspect the better option would be to use a chain or toothed belt to
allow the motor to drive the tranny end of the driveshaft. There may
even be enough travel in the driveshaft slip joint to allow you to
insert a cog/sprocket between the tranny and driveshaft (and if not,
just have a flange welded to the driveshaft yoke that slips onto the
tranny output shaft and bolt up your sprocket/cog to that). This
approach will avoid having to cut or otherwise peramnently modify the
driveshaft, so if you decide to sell the car later, you can unbolt the
hybrid components and restore it to stock trim.
A big question may be if the car can be flat towed or not (i.e. is the
tranny OK with the output shaft spinning while the input shaft (ICE) is
not?). If so, then spinning the output shaft with the electric while
the ICE is off and tranny in neutral gives you a pretty straightforward
hybridisation. Of course, if you have PS, PB, AC, etc. then you may
want to have the ICE idling even when in "electric" mode, just to spin
the accessories and provide vacuum for the brakes. This complicates
things a bit since you have to somehow allow the throttle peddle to
control the electric assist without revving up the ICE; if the ICE is
left off, then the ICE throttle can be left alone and just link the
potbox to the same peddle.
The other issue will be the battery weight required to provide the range
you are looking for. I suspect the way to go is a pack of Lithium
batteries ($$$), or a higher voltage string of smallish AGMs (Hawkers).
Lead may be unable to satisfy the requirements.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Good point the driveshaft may be too short. Since it is an IRS car,
you probably don't have to worry about angle or slip issues.
Something else to consider is can the electric motor shaft transmit
that much torque? The driveshaft might be handling as much as about
1000 ft*lbs of torque (with tranny multiplication), would the
electric motor armature shaft be up to that?
Probably the ideal arrangement if you have room:
gas motor -- clutch -- electric motor -- tranny
Then the electic motor would see only the motor's torque (around 250
ft*lbs), and get the tranny torque multiplication.
> Bill Dennis wrote:
> > Instead of pulleys, would it work to hang the motor down from
> > the chassis, cut a chunk out of the middle of the driveshaft,
> > and attach to each end of the motor via a universal joint?
--- Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> This would certainly work, if you have enough distance (length)
> between
> the tranny and rear end (which I doubt). It is certainly one of
> the
> first approaches I would consider if doing this to a pickup.
>
> In your case, I suspect there isn't enough space available to do
> this;
> the driveshaft between the motor and diff will end up very short
> and
> running at an extreme angle.
>
> I suspect the better option would be to use a chain or toothed belt
> to
> allow the motor to drive the tranny end of the driveshaft. There
> may
> even be enough travel in the driveshaft slip joint to allow you to
> insert a cog/sprocket between the tranny and driveshaft (and if
> not,
> just have a flange welded to the driveshaft yoke that slips onto
> the
> tranny output shaft and bolt up your sprocket/cog to that). This
> approach will avoid having to cut or otherwise peramnently modify
> the
> driveshaft, so if you decide to sell the car later, you can unbolt
> the
> hybrid components and restore it to stock trim.
>
> A big question may be if the car can be flat towed or not (i.e. is
> the
> tranny OK with the output shaft spinning while the input shaft
> (ICE) is
> not?). If so, then spinning the output shaft with the electric
> while
> the ICE is off and tranny in neutral gives you a pretty
> straightforward
> hybridisation. Of course, if you have PS, PB, AC, etc. then you
> may
> want to have the ICE idling even when in "electric" mode, just to
> spin
> the accessories and provide vacuum for the brakes. This
> complicates
> things a bit since you have to somehow allow the throttle peddle to
> control the electric assist without revving up the ICE; if the ICE
> is
> left off, then the ICE throttle can be left alone and just link the
> potbox to the same peddle.
>
> The other issue will be the battery weight required to provide the
> range
> you are looking for. I suspect the way to go is a pack of Lithium
> batteries ($$$), or a higher voltage string of smallish AGMs
> (Hawkers).
> Lead may be unable to satisfy the requirements.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Roger.
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Most USE trucks have only 5-10 miles on the odometer. Maybe the
u-joints were bored to death.
Have you taken off the hubcaps to see if the noise follows them? Seen
that a bunch of times.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Somewhat EV related: I took the S10 out for an unlicensed "drive" last
> night. One thing I noticed was a clicking sound coming from under the
> middle of the car in forward, but not reverse.
>
> It's not the parking pawl (it's clear), sounds like a CV joint. However
> I know CV joint noise parameters, and this happens regardless of turn
> direction.
>
> So do S10 trucks with rear wheel drive have some sort of CV joint
system
> in the driveshaft? Could this be the result of not having the bed on
the
> truck (and a thousand pounds light because of the NiCD batteries)
>
> For the record, this truck moves *FAST*. Even at 200 amp draw the
> batteries are not dropping below 300 volts (302v). Despite the rain
> storms the pack is not isolation faulting, and I'm able to program the
> Dolphin chips.
>
> Soon... Soon I will have it registered, have a tilt-bed installed (who
> makes those again?) and then.... 80kw for starters, then 100....
>
>
> Mwahaha!
>
> Chris
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Where is a good source to find used and surplus motors?
I've not found much luck finding any 10+ hp DC motors.
Jack
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
quite frankly, I'd say the 300ZX is just not a good car to do this kind
of modification, there's not gonna be a lot of room for bats left
either. I would use a FWD car, and add an electric motor drive to the
rear wheels to get both types of power. Might make sense for this
Aspire, its ICE is whimpy.
Jack
David Dymaxion wrote:
Good point the driveshaft may be too short. Since it is an IRS car,
you probably don't have to worry about angle or slip issues.
Something else to consider is can the electric motor shaft transmit
that much torque? The driveshaft might be handling as much as about
1000 ft*lbs of torque (with tranny multiplication), would the
electric motor armature shaft be up to that?
Probably the ideal arrangement if you have room:
gas motor -- clutch -- electric motor -- tranny
Then the electic motor would see only the motor's torque (around 250
ft*lbs), and get the tranny torque multiplication.
Bill Dennis wrote:
Instead of pulleys, would it work to hang the motor down from
the chassis, cut a chunk out of the middle of the driveshaft,
and attach to each end of the motor via a universal joint?
--- Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
This would certainly work, if you have enough distance (length)
between
the tranny and rear end (which I doubt). It is certainly one of
the
first approaches I would consider if doing this to a pickup.
In your case, I suspect there isn't enough space available to do
this;
the driveshaft between the motor and diff will end up very short
and
running at an extreme angle.
I suspect the better option would be to use a chain or toothed belt
to
allow the motor to drive the tranny end of the driveshaft. There
may
even be enough travel in the driveshaft slip joint to allow you to
insert a cog/sprocket between the tranny and driveshaft (and if
not,
just have a flange welded to the driveshaft yoke that slips onto
the
tranny output shaft and bolt up your sprocket/cog to that). This
approach will avoid having to cut or otherwise peramnently modify
the
driveshaft, so if you decide to sell the car later, you can unbolt
the
hybrid components and restore it to stock trim.
A big question may be if the car can be flat towed or not (i.e. is
the
tranny OK with the output shaft spinning while the input shaft
(ICE) is
not?). If so, then spinning the output shaft with the electric
while
the ICE is off and tranny in neutral gives you a pretty
straightforward
hybridisation. Of course, if you have PS, PB, AC, etc. then you
may
want to have the ICE idling even when in "electric" mode, just to
spin
the accessories and provide vacuum for the brakes. This
complicates
things a bit since you have to somehow allow the throttle peddle to
control the electric assist without revving up the ICE; if the ICE
is
left off, then the ICE throttle can be left alone and just link the
potbox to the same peddle.
The other issue will be the battery weight required to provide the
range
you are looking for. I suspect the way to go is a pack of Lithium
batteries ($$$), or a higher voltage string of smallish AGMs
(Hawkers).
Lead may be unable to satisfy the requirements.
Cheers,
Roger.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roderick wrote:
===============================
Please check out this very in depth article about "Who Killed the Electric
Car". It looks like the prestigious Hollywood Reporter is starting the Oscar
buzz for this movie. If it gets a nomination we all know what that means.
Roderick Wilde
http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/thr/columns/grove_display.jsp?vnu_content_id=1002691221
=================================================
Wow. This is a fantastic look behind the scenes right from the creators.
The best material yet I have seen on the subject.
Thanks Rod! :^D
...
Roy LeMeur
Olympia, WA
My EV and RE Project Pages-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone have an idea just how many four wheel EV cars and trucks (not
NEVs nor other low speeds) are in current use in the USA? By current, I mean
driven at least once a week, all or most all of the year.
I've only had my first EV on the road for 6 months, but can't imagine ever
buying another gasoline car.
Jay
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Jun 27, 2006, at 10:19 AM, Steven Lough wrote:
Many thanks for all the Extra Effort that went into this years
"Gasless on Greenwood" First myself... Your Welcome...
But mostly the folks who came from a distance.. Mark Mongillo's and
his 1968 Datsun Pick-up, and John Waland, just FRESH off the plane
from Alaska, and Roy LeMeur for helping them both get up here..
Thanks Roy.
and Mark from MC Electric for his entry, and helping Paul Gooch get
his darling VW Doon Buggy down from Everett. ...But also just all
the regulars who came from near and far..
Just a minor correction. David O'Neel provided the towing service for
my EV Buggy to and from the Greenwood show. Thanx again David.
Mark and Roy both offered to help as well. I want to thank them for
their generous offers but David made their day (and mine.) Both of them
already had hauling duties for the Greenwood show and adding a run to
the north would have heaped more work on them.
It was a great show. I certainly would not consider the crowd "the 'Den
of Lions'", Steve. Most auto enthusiasts are good people who appreciate
the work that goes into modifying a vehicle. Some won't be interested
in the EVs, some won't be interested in the hydraulic suspension cars,
some won't be interested in the Mini's; almost all of them appreciate
the work that goes into building or restoring a vehicle.
I never knew my buggy would attract *that* much attention... its only
slightly more refined than a "rat rod"!
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
They use sensors.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], John Norton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> On Tue, 27 Jun 2006 15:49, David Dymaxion wrote:
> > I'd guess u-joints, but have you checked the rearend and tranny have
> > enough oil?
> >
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Christopher Zach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 8:19 AM
> >> Subject: Clicking on an electric S10
> >> > Somewhat EV related: I took the S10 out for an unlicensed "drive"
> >> last
> >> > night. One thing I noticed was a clicking sound coming from under
> >> the
> >> > middle of the car in forward, but not reverse.
> >> >
>
> My guess is speedo cable if that model year doesn't use sensors.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Maybe it's just my link but the hot link goes to an error
message..
Doc
On 6/27/06, Dave Stensland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Here's a link to some more pictures of this year's Power of DC event...
http://www.megawattmotorworks.com/resource.asp?
func=display&resid=1294&tree=536&thumb=1
Cheers,
-Dave
http://megawattmotorworks.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Why does *everybody* say that electric cars MUST be operated on oil or coal?
I hear it so many times that I'm starting to believe it myself!
-= Darell =-
http://darelldd.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Marc Geller
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 3:42 PM
To: EV1 Club; RAV4 EV; EV Discussion
Subject: [EV1-CLUB] Lotus Elise Group Discusses the Film
http://elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24663&highlight=killed
+electric
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
that's just Dave's way of checking to see if anyone reads his messages... ;-)
Try these ... you may have to stitch 'em
http://www.megawattmotorworks.com/redir.asp?link=1294&tree=603
http://www.megawattmotorworks.com/resource.asp?func=display&resid=1294&tree=536&thumb=1
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
"Ignorance is treatable, with a good prognosis. However, if left untreated, it
develops into Arrogance, which is often
fatal. :-)" -- Lee Hart
Get your own FREE evgrin.com email address;
send a request to ryan at evsourcecom
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Sent: 6/27/2006 5:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Power of DC - Pics
>
> Maybe it's just my link but the hot link goes to an error
> message..
>
> Doc
>
>
> On 6/27/06, Dave Stensland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Here's a link to some more pictures of this year's Power of DC
> event...
>> http://www.megawattmotorworks.com/resource.asp?
>> func=display&resid=1294&tree=536&thumb=1
>>
>> Cheers,
>> -Dave
>> http://megawattmotorworks.com
>>
>>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I saw that, too! The EV1 car is on museum's Web site at:
http://americanhistory.si.edu/onthemove/collection/object_1303.html -and I
noticed they
did call it 'failed technology'.
To call the electric car and/or the EV1 a failure would be a disputable
opinion. A
disputable statement in a public display would be a public policy statement. It
is
surprising that they would miss that.
Steve Love -- [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Charles Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 12:31 PM
Subject: Re: Smithsonian to remove EV1 Display
> Hi Charles,
>
> Thank you very much for your timely response. Can you dispel a rumor I
> heard that the EV1 that was on display had a sign that said "Failed
> Technology". Is this true and if it is who wrote that sign and why?
> Obviously it is an outright lie and if it did say that then it would have
> political implications. I was not aware that The Smithsonian was involved in
> politics. Correct me if I am wrong here. Granted, the marketing may have
> been faulty but to say that the technology was faulty is a slap in the face
> to the quality engineering by the talented engineers at GM who produced this
> marvel of advanced technology. I await your reply.
>
> Roderick Wilde
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charles Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 7:31 AM
> Subject: Re: Smithsonian to remove EV1 Display
>
>
> > Thank you for your email.
> >
> > More than 4 million visitors saw the EV1 displayed in a prominent location
> > during the 15 months it was on view in the museum -- much longer that
> > originally planned when it was donated to the National Museum of American
> > History in March 2005.
> >
> > A recent article in the Washington Post and subsequently picked up by the
> > Associated Press, incorrectly implied that the museum removed the EV1 from
> > display upon request by General Motors and in advance of the release of a
> > new documentary.
> >
> > This is incorrect and there is no relation between the EV1's removal and
> > the release of the film. It is standard museum procedure to rotate
> > objects
> > on and off display with many objects staying on view for only 6 months to
> > 1
> > year. The decision to rotate out the EV1 this summer was made in January
> > 2006, long before any release dates for the film were known.
> >
> > While the EV1 is no longer on display, the car is featured on museum's Web
> > site: http://americanhistory.si.edu/onthemove/collection/object_1303.html
> > as are other alternative and electric cars in our collections.
> >
> > The museum will be closing to the public as of Sept. 5, 2006 for major
> > renovations. Until then, we are working to showcase as many collections
> > as
> > we can until we reopen in the summer of 2008.
> >
> > Once again, thank you for contacting the museum.
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Charles Neill
> > Administrative Assistant
> > Director's Office
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24663&highlight=killed
+electric
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That is not exactly a hybrid, kinda two cars in one! The reason I say
that, is the electric system and the gas system both need to be fully
capable to move the vehicle.
I just converted a 1987 300zx ( http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/747 ) to
electric and so I have been crawling under the thing a lot. Not much room
First of all, is it a 2+2? that would give added space for batteries?
Since it is a unibody and since the differential is mounted, perhaps a
motor could be fit in the cabin area. above the differential. (Inside
of a sound insulated shroud ducted to allow it to be cooled by air. )
Then a motorcycle sprocket monted between where the driveline mounts to
the pinion connects to the motor with a heavy duty one way clutch.
When you are driving under ICE power, we don't spin the electric motor.
On each side of this motor and a row accross in front you can then get
about 12 orbital sized batteries and the charger. Thats good for about
12 miles on a good day. and about balances the weight for that car. The
front end of Jeep's have the same 5" dia spring and the litle urathene
lift rubber can restore some ride height. Imagine a box within a box.
The box in the center covers the motor the surrounding box holds batteries.
If Floddies, it will go furthor and Since the EV mode is for around
town, this and a curtis or altraks at 400 amps max would probably be
suffient but boring, not sporty. An additional row of batteries under
the hood may be possible, but I doubt it. (motor was already out on
mine, not sure how much space above the radiator, but it seemed it was
full of stuff.
Don't forget you will need a vacuum pump to operate the brakes and
either disconnect the power steering hoses and loop the box or an
electric pump, and then there is the loss of the AC. :-(
Perhaps a compromise would be that a method of two throttles is used,
say a hand throttle like on Handicap vehicles and the standard gas
pedal. The ICE is left idleing in neutral and the electric motor is used
around town with the hand throttle. This gives AC, Power brakes, Power
steering and If we change our thinking a little to use a sep-ex motor,
perhaps regenerative brakeing. more to help save brakes than increase
range. Wih the overrun clutch idea, the gearing of about 2:1 would give
good acceleration to a speed of about 45-50 without overreving the
electric motor, I would try a 1.5 ratio to protect the motor and see if
that accelerates good enough, just to keep the rpm's in check. An
alternator that puts out pack voltage could extend the pack range a tad
and an optimum between the amount of shaft power that is being generated
anyway and the amount of additional load can be adjusted with the field
control.
Have you considered getting another 300zx and converting it to electric,
just swap cars?
My EV weighs 4050 (the 300 wasn't light to begin with, and neither am I)
The warp 9 in 2nd gear with 1000 motor amps scoots, when it had 750 lbs
of batteries it was quicker than now (1000 lbs) I drive around useing
2nd and third mostly, but there is one streach where I use 4th.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Up to 30% of the brakeing force but only if you are brakeing the other
70% with the front. due to weight transfer. Good anti-dive suspension
geometry can reduce weight transfer and increase the amount of safe and
practical rear brakeing possible.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff - who made your adapter for the transmission? I think your 300Z and my
240sx had the same tranny
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Jeff Shanab
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 7:49 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: 300ZX Hybrid
That is not exactly a hybrid, kinda two cars in one! The reason I say
that, is the electric system and the gas system both need to be fully
capable to move the vehicle.
I just converted a 1987 300zx ( http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/747 ) to
electric and so I have been crawling under the thing a lot. Not much room
First of all, is it a 2+2? that would give added space for batteries?
Since it is a unibody and since the differential is mounted, perhaps a
motor could be fit in the cabin area. above the differential. (Inside
of a sound insulated shroud ducted to allow it to be cooled by air. )
Then a motorcycle sprocket monted between where the driveline mounts to
the pinion connects to the motor with a heavy duty one way clutch.
When you are driving under ICE power, we don't spin the electric motor.
On each side of this motor and a row accross in front you can then get
about 12 orbital sized batteries and the charger. Thats good for about
12 miles on a good day. and about balances the weight for that car. The
front end of Jeep's have the same 5" dia spring and the litle urathene
lift rubber can restore some ride height. Imagine a box within a box.
The box in the center covers the motor the surrounding box holds batteries.
If Floddies, it will go furthor and Since the EV mode is for around
town, this and a curtis or altraks at 400 amps max would probably be
suffient but boring, not sporty. An additional row of batteries under
the hood may be possible, but I doubt it. (motor was already out on
mine, not sure how much space above the radiator, but it seemed it was
full of stuff.
Don't forget you will need a vacuum pump to operate the brakes and
either disconnect the power steering hoses and loop the box or an
electric pump, and then there is the loss of the AC. :-(
Perhaps a compromise would be that a method of two throttles is used,
say a hand throttle like on Handicap vehicles and the standard gas
pedal. The ICE is left idleing in neutral and the electric motor is used
around town with the hand throttle. This gives AC, Power brakes, Power
steering and If we change our thinking a little to use a sep-ex motor,
perhaps regenerative brakeing. more to help save brakes than increase
range. Wih the overrun clutch idea, the gearing of about 2:1 would give
good acceleration to a speed of about 45-50 without overreving the
electric motor, I would try a 1.5 ratio to protect the motor and see if
that accelerates good enough, just to keep the rpm's in check. An
alternator that puts out pack voltage could extend the pack range a tad
and an optimum between the amount of shaft power that is being generated
anyway and the amount of additional load can be adjusted with the field
control.
Have you considered getting another 300zx and converting it to electric,
just swap cars?
My EV weighs 4050 (the 300 wasn't light to begin with, and neither am I)
The warp 9 in 2nd gear with 1000 motor amps scoots, when it had 750 lbs
of batteries it was quicker than now (1000 lbs) I drive around useing
2nd and third mostly, but there is one streach where I use 4th.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes -
You would lose the back seats though. You can make an adapter for the rear
differential to put the electric motor directly above the pumpkin. Attach
the motor to the rear diff with a chain and sprocket combo. Link the
sprocket to the pumpkin by drilling holes to make the sprocket bolt between
the differential and the driveshaft. You can then put batteries in the
trunk. To drive in EV mode you put the transmission in neutral and let the
electric motor drive the rear diff by the chain. Then when you want to
drive in gas mode you go back into gear.
This would require a switch on the dash for EV or gas. The EV mode
would
remove power from the fuel pump, engine coil, and ECM. You would need some
way to get power steering, AC, and power brakes. You could convert all of
them to electric and have them run on 12V so they can run in both EV and gas
mode.
I have thought extensively on this since I was going to do this to my 1990
Nissan 240sx. As it turned out the engine was in really bad shape so I
decided to go full EV instead.
Jody
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Bill Dennis
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 10:27 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: 300ZX Hybrid
My wife has asked me if I can turn our 1986 300ZX (5-speed manual) into a
hybrid after I finish converting my current EV. Her goal is to be able to
drive it to work and back daily using electric mode only, switching to ICE
mode for longer trips only. Her daily round trip commute is around 12
miles, the final part entailing a 5.5 mile uphill climb where the speed
limit is 40 mph.
The 300ZX is a rear-wheel drive vehicle, I believe, with around a 3.6:1
ratio in the differential. Any thoughts on how best to make such a hybrid?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi everybody, I just located and will be picking up a 94 s10 very clean
body top to bottom and underneath and has been sitting for a couple yrs so
will need work but it looks complete.It says hughes vector on the controller
under the hood.I am just wondering if it is interesting to anybody on the
list.Email with phone # and i can call you or email if u want to make a
deal.I think it will be around $3000.It will be the end of the wk before I
pick it up.the thing has like 6000 miles on the odometer and it looks it. I
live in upstate New York. I would love to keep it but I have enough ev's now
to outfit the family with 4 solectria force cars plus bob rices parts
solectria car I am thankful for.As for the 94 belt drive solectria force I
just got the gearbox back from the machine shop after they installed all new
gears and bearings of their design.It happily runs and drives again. let me
know what you guys think about this Us electricar s10 pickup. Thanks
Mike young
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Powers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: Is the Ranger conversion by a listee?
I talked to the guy with the Ranger a bit. Actually, it is pretty decent
for a 126 V truck with all that weight and poor aerodynamics.
Ideally, the new owner would seriously up the voltage (20 x 8 V - it
needs a new pack anyway), put in a better controller, reduce the weight
(remove the bed ...), etc. It could be a very decent EV truck, but it
would cost about an additional $4000 + transport to get to that point.
It's a shame that the guy is disabling it by removing the batteries.
That makes it virtually impossible (cost prohibitive) for anyone to
transport it. With it disabled, you are looking at a single car hauler
wenching it on and off. That will run at least $2 / mile plus pickup and
drop off. It truely is a shame. For me, I'd have to drive all the way
there, put it on a trailer and drive all the way back. That's 2200 miles,
and about 4 days time that I can't spare right now.
I was ready to buy it now (and told him that), but I can't spend $2000 to
transport it and don't have the time to do it myself. It just isn't worth
it. Maybe someone a lot closer will get it.
Steve
Bob Rice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Or better yet CT or Mass as it is in Worcester MA. Not exactly a hotbed
of
EV activity, but we are working on that!
Good luck!
Bob.
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 1:15 AM
Subject: Is the Ranger conversion by a listee?
You don't get the batteries or racks, but it looks like a deal for anyone
in MD:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4651790535
---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save
big.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At treehugger click on the treehugger tv image:
http://www.treehugger.com/files/2006/06/treehuggertv_electric_car.php
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
mike young wrote:
Hi everybody, I just located and will be picking up a 94 s10 very clean
body top to bottom and underneath and has been sitting for a couple yrs
so will need work but it looks complete.It says hughes vector on the
controller under the hood.I am just wondering if it is interesting to
anybody on the list.Email with phone # and i can call you or email if u
want to make a deal.I think it will be around $3000.It will be the end
of the wk before I pick it up.the thing has like 6000 miles on the
odometer and it looks it. I live in upstate New York. I would love to
keep it but I have enough ev's now to outfit the family with 4 solectria
force cars plus bob rices parts solectria car I am thankful for.As for
the 94 belt drive solectria force I just got the gearbox back from the
machine shop after they installed all new gears and bearings of their
design.It happily runs and drives again. let me know what you guys think
about this Us electricar s10 pickup. Thanks Mike young
Yep, US Electricar truck. Just to let people know, we have been making
serious strides towards getting these things fully operational. Between
Mike, Andy, and myself we can fix a lot of the problems that have popped up.
Just don't rip out the controller and motor; it's nicer than you think.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
EVRIDER wrote:
Dave and Christopher,
Just a note from another mechanic (who despises this particular job),
On the S-10, if they are the OEM (factory original) U-joints, they are actually
mounted in
It's a factory, but as always there is a catch: The battery box goes
around the driveline on three sides. Not too much clearance except for
the bottom.
Can it be removed with only bottom access? Alternative is to either
remove the battery box, cab, and everything from above, or drop the diff
and transmission from the frame.
Or can it be lubed in place? Or is this simply "put the bed on dude"?
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
NEW IN GRIST
All About EV
Grist talks with the makers of Who Killed the Electric Car?
In the 1990s, California required automakers to introduce zero-emission
cars. GM put out the electric EV-1, a sporty coupe that inspired
head-over-heels devotion among the few people who got their hands on one.
Then California backed down, the car leases ran out, and GM took the EVs
back and squashed them. Who's to blame? Today, Hannah Eaves interviews the
makers of Who Killed the Electric Car?, a documentary film debuting this
week that explores the question. In Gristmill, David Roberts continues that
conversation, digging into questions of peak oil, public transportation, and
why the U.S. is starting to look an awful lot like the Soviet Union.
new in Arts and Minds: All About EV
http://www.grist.org/advice/books/2006/06/27/eaves/index.html?source=daily
new in Gristmill: Another interview with makers of Who Killed the Electric
Car?
http://gristmill.grist.org/story/2006/6/26/172718/341?source=daily
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C69A20.024783B0";
type="text/plain--
--- End Message ---
