EV Digest 6334
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) 120 mph Thrill
by DM3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Using Vortex Tubes for air conditioning/heating
by "Arthur W. Matteson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Using Vortex Tubes for air conditioning/heating
by Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Using GPS for measure performance (was Re: wind resistance ( was where
to
by "Tom Messick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) OT: Using GPS for measure performance
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Lower price (and available) configurations
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Todd PC40
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Hackaday.com had the following p-lans up for a Six-channel Analog
Pulse Width/Frequency Power Modulator
by Geopilot <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Performance lag (Zilla vs Curtis, Warp vs =?UTF-8?B?QURDKT8=?=
by EVSource <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Using GPS for measure performance (was Re: wind resistance (
was where to
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Battery Monitor Design
by Tim Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: EVs in Edmonton
by "Darin - MetroMPG.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: NOISY SLOW Volt Video
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Performance lag (Zilla vs Curtis, Warp vs ADC)?
by "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Using Vortex Tubes for air conditioning/heating
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Chevy VOLT
by "Kaido Kert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Phoenix motors/UQM Drive
by "Kaido Kert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) OT Copper, was: EEstor
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: OT nitrogen was Re: super skinny/hard tires .. thin tyres in
the 69 psi
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: NOISY SLOW Volt Video
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: EVs in Edmonton
by Nathaniel Olsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: super skinny/hard tires .. thin tyres in the 69 psi
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Mini-Spare 130mm bolt pattern
by "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: OT Copper, was: EEstor
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) EV Drag racing this year
by Mark Fowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Tire pressure drop
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
27) EV Drag racing this year
by Mark Fowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Chevy VOLT
by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Battery Monitor Design
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Battery Monitor Design
by "Peter Gabrielsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: 120 mph Thrill
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Volt as a biodiesel/vegetable car. But GM is building it.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I have been involved in EVs and EV racing for several years but had not
gone over 100mph on a drag strip until recently. I just want to thank
Dennis Berube for letting me rip down the strip in the CE-V and see what
it is like.
I don't know if I am now in any official 100mph club but I consider the
experience an honor.
I wrote a little article you can see at the bottom of:
https://dm3electrics.com/
Thanks Dennis
See you at the track,
Mario
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've used this for machining aluminum. Very neat. But very loud! And
the one I used (like the advertised) was very small, so a large one
would probably be even louder. I'd say the hot air gets to 130F and the
cold air to 40F.
- Arthur
On Mon, 2007-01-22 at 22:22 -0600, Michaela Merz wrote:
> Hello:
>
> My apologies if this is stupid or if it has been discussed before.
>
> While surfing around, I stumbled over some cooling technologies, that
> basically uses compressed air. See
> http://www.exair.com/vortextube/vt_page.htm
>
> Now .. I don't have any data, but shouldn't a moving vehicle produce
> quite some amount of air flow/air pressure that could be used for cooling
> or heating through a vortex tube?
>
> Just an idea here ..
>
> Michaela
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
They are simple, but very inefficient.
http://www.visi.com/~darus/hilsch/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vortex_tube
Bill Dube'
At 09:22 PM 1/22/2007, you wrote:
Hello:
My apologies if this is stupid or if it has been discussed before.
While surfing around, I stumbled over some cooling technologies, that
basically uses compressed air. See
http://www.exair.com/vortextube/vt_page.htm
Now .. I don't have any data, but shouldn't a moving vehicle produce
quite some amount of air flow/air pressure that could be used for cooling
or heating through a vortex tube?
Just an idea here ..
Michaela
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The degrading of civilian GPS was eliminated a few years ago.
http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/gps/selective_availability.htm
On 1/22/07, Tom Watson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi
I ran across this problem while researching sailboat gps's. There is
a built in error in satalite fed gps to keep it from being used
against us... I can't remember what it's called and I've changed
computers since, but you can get somekind of fix with a subscription
of some kind... It was kind of expencive and requires yearly updates?
I think they use a bit of software to adjust it and I believe you get
the adjustment from a radio signal?...anyway look for it ... it is on
the internet somewhere... I was quite surprised to find out about it.
Apparently it dosn't throw you off much if your looking for a city,
but try finding a rock with gps and you will notice it!
Tom
I've mainly only used the older Motorola Oncore, but the altitude was
always as accurate as the lat/long,and they both had similar
accuracies when they weren't within 1m or so.
I've found from speaking to other people that the more commercial
modular type of GPS tend to be more stable, perhaps because they're
destined to be used in third party application hardware. I was going
to suggest you had an antenna problem but you beat me to that by
saying your lat/long were stable.
Perhaps there's a firmware update fix for it if it is a known
problem with your particular model.
Chris
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--
--
tom
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This error in calculating the positional solution is called Geometric
Dissolution of Precision or GDOP. That error can be broken
down into two components VDOP and HDOP (Vertical and Horizontal DOP). Because
the satellite constellation is located in a
relative shpere around the surface of the earth (you are on the surface) the
VDOP is usually a little greater (slightly more
error) than HDOP. If you average the error, from a known point, of both
Horizontal and Vertical position the vertical error will
always be slightly higher. The better receivers will not only pick which
satellites that offer the best precision but will give
you GDOP, HDOP and VDOP values. On some you can sacrifice the vertical
precision for satellites that will calculate for better
horizontal position, and vice versa. As Randy mentioned the broader the angle
between the satellites the better the precision, but
only out to a point where the satellite is 10 to 15 degrees above the horizon,
for exactly the same reasons he stated.
Also consumer GPS units only receive the L1 channel, which up until May of 2000
was errored due to intentional dithering of the P
codes on the channel, called Selective Availability (SA). Since then even the
L1 channel has been free of Selective Availability.
(It may have been turned back on during portions of the war however) The
military receivers though can receive both the L1 and L2
channels and make more accurate use of the P codes on both channels to further
define precision of the solution. In all cases (L1
with SA on, L1 with SA off and L1-L2 reception) receiving a broadcast of the
error in real time from a calibrated reference
station can increase the precision of the calculated solution by an order of
magnitude. A Differential GPS Reference Station can
be effective for up to 500 miles around itself. Marine band DGPS signals are
broadcast on MF frequencies ~180ish kilohetrz while
the aviation stations broadcast in UHF and VFH. This of course requires you to
have the differential beacon receiver, which is
what adds to the cost. The US Coast Guard DGPS service is free. There are other
commercial DGPS providers but you have to pay
subscription fees to get real time corrections.
All in all the distance and time measurements for longer trips can be useful
and ratehr accurate. I would however be cautious of
relying on them for measurements of short trips, especially those short trip
that involve inclination. I'd tend more towards
using small scale geographic maps and making multipls trips along known routes
on the map. This will at least give you a
consistent reference of elevation.
> Randy Burleson wrote
>
> Visualize the highly acute angle of inclination to satellites on the
> horizon, and the distance that the information has to travel, as
> compared to the relatively steep angle and shorter distance to receive
> information from an overhead satellite... the degree of error is much
> more significant applied against the longer distances, working the
> smaller angles to calculate Z, as opposed to the shorter distances and
> larger angles to calculate X and Y.
>
> More expensive Differential GPS technologies reference a land-based
> signal that helps dial in even closer, but they, too, are more accurate
> in X and Y than Z.
>
> Randii
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Peter wrote -
>>>www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/atv.shtml has some numbers that might be
>>>interesting for LRR, Aero Drag and Driveline losses.
>>>It states "For passenger cars, a 5-7% reduction in rolling
>>>resistance increases fuel efficiency by 1%. However, these
>>>improvements must be balanced against traction, durabillity, and
>>>noise." So according to these numbers only a 1% is usually achieved,
>>>which is in direct conflict with the above numbers from John.
>
> I think you are missing something here. A %5 reduction is going from a
> tire with a crr of 0.015 to 0.01425.
>
> Switching from 0.015 to 0.007 represents a 54% reduction in rr.
>
I'm sorry, but I don't think I'm missing anything there... <G>
I asked where he got his 0.0015 crr from and then pointed out that studies show
that a 5-7% reduction in rr increases fuel efficiency by about 1%.
You are the one that took the crr numbers and did the math. Which again points
out the disparity between the studies and the numbers that John showed from
Uve's site. John said
> I tried using LRR tires (.0015 rr).
> Max speed: 76mph. Range @ 50mph - 55.4 miles, Range @ 10mph - 665.6 miles.
So again I ask where did he get his 0.0015 rr number? And if it is a real tire
then the numbers are in direct conflict with studies done... I'm just pointing
out differences, not trying to argue any point at all. I hope that this is
clear.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
www.Airphibian.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've put up some pics of my Todd PC40 DC/DC if anybody is interested, interior
shots so that they can be compared them with the 20 and 30.
http://www.ironandwood.org/todd40.htm
hth,
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
www.Airphibian.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hackaday.com had the following p-lans up for a
Six-channel Analog Pulse Width/Frequency Power Modulator
http://waggy.org/electronics/hackaday-challenge/pwfm556.html
Could this be useful for an EV?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi everyone,
>
>> An ImPulse 9 is not a WarP 9. A
>> fair comparison is an ADC 8 to an ImPulse 9. This could explain the
>> need for more current to get similar performance.
>
> Why is this the second time I've heard that? Power is power!
This makes good sense, however, Adrian didn't say anything about the voltage at
the stated currents. So we don't actually know the power consumption with the
two "tests".
-Ryan
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Professional grade electric vehicle parts and resources
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tom Watson wrote:
Hi
I ran across this problem while researching sailboat gps's. There is
a built in error in satalite fed gps to keep it from being used
against us... I can't remember what it's called and I've changed
computers since, but you can get somekind of fix with a subscription
of some kind... It was kind of expencive and requires yearly updates?
The error signal (AKA Selective Availability or SA) has been turned
off. Other errors in the satellite signal timing introduced by the
ionosphere (among other things) affect accuracy.
Newer GPS units can receive additional information on one of the GPS
channels from the WAAS system to increase accuracy.
I think they use a bit of software to adjust it and I believe you get
the adjustment from a radio signal?...anyway look for it ... it is on
the internet somewhere... I was quite surprised to find out about it.
Apparently it dosn't throw you off much if your looking for a city,
but try finding a rock with gps and you will notice it!
Tom
I've mainly only used the older Motorola Oncore, but the altitude was
always as accurate as the lat/long,and they both had similar
accuracies when they weren't within 1m or so.
I've found from speaking to other people that the more commercial
modular type of GPS tend to be more stable, perhaps because they're
destined to be used in third party application hardware. I was going
to suggest you had an antenna problem but you beat me to that by
saying your lat/long were stable.
Perhaps there's a firmware update fix for it if it is a known
problem with your particular model.
Chris
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have designed and built a battery monitor with LCD display for my Soleq
EVcort (1993 ford escort converted by Soleq) - please take a look at the
design, including schematics, pictures, and board layout at this link:
http://home.earthlink.net/~evtkw/
I would love to hear feedback on the system! See any major flaws or problems?
Like anything? What do you think?
Tim Wong
1993 Soleq EVcort
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Myles Twete wrote:
Here's my project...: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1018
Which reminds me, the EV Album will show you EVs by location. Here are
the Alberta entries (several shown in Edmonton):
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/geo/Alberta
Darin
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Uhh Hunn!
We are supporting both, a 120 for whimps..er light users.. and a 30 amp
twist lock for those that want to use thier EV more than once a day.
We were talking about PHEVs.. right?? The plug in makes then a light EV..
and the faster you can charge.. the more good you can get.
With a 40 amp charger/DC/DC converter.. filling is a 20 minute Option.
Well ?? what do you expect from Madman???
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Austin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: NOISY SLOW Volt Video
> On Thu, Jan 18, 2007 at 05:22:10AM -0000, Death to All Spammers wrote:
> >
> > Did she unplug from a 110V cord? How long does *that* take for a
recharge?
> >
> > I guess GM gave up on inductive paddles...
>
> Remember that with PHEVs, charge time is much less important then access
to
> an outlet. If this thing can fill up in 8 hours, then you'll have covered
> most of your driving needs.
>
> If I was putting one of these things together, I would likely include both
> a low power and high power charging port. Of course, that's assuming I was
not
> worried about consumer confusion regarding the charging requirements.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The batteries in #1 (faster car) are 6-8 months older.
I know an Impulse 9" isn't a Warp 9", but TWICE the current? We're talking
34.2KW vs 16.2KW! I can understand efficiency differences, but not 18KW
worth.
2/0 cabling to threaded stud terminals on the Scirroco (#1). 2/0 cable and
1"x1/16" copper bus bars to Universal Terminals (automotive w/hole) on the
Cabriolet. The bus bars are a bit thin, but my pack only sags 20V at 350A.
That's 0.057 Ohms or 0.003 Ohms/batt (T105 resistance is spec'd at 0.004
Ohms on EVConvert.com) It's 7KW lost to heat, but nowhere near the 18KW
difference.
No volt meter on the Scirroco. Swapping current meters isn't an option,
but I could put a DVM across the current shunts... The Curtis controller
is poorly heatsinked and has little room for airflow around it. The owner
sometimes sees 200A peaks, but it usually peaks at 150A.
This weekend I can do the "wheel spin test" and see if something is
binding. Anyone have a good bi-directional coast down test for measuring
rolling resistance? There are NO flat roads here!
Thanks for the testing ideas,
Adrian
.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You need a substantial pressure differential- you'd have to be going
hundreds of mph!
Danny
Michaela Merz wrote:
Hello:
My apologies if this is stupid or if it has been discussed before.
While surfing around, I stumbled over some cooling technologies, that
basically uses compressed air. See
http://www.exair.com/vortextube/vt_page.htm
Now .. I don't have any data, but shouldn't a moving vehicle produce
quite some amount of air flow/air pressure that could be used for cooling
or heating through a vortex tube?
Just an idea here ..
Michaela
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wow. How come word about this wasnt more widely spread when the
initial flurry of Volt announcements hit the media ?
Heres a more detailed overview of the 4-seater EV1 prototypes,
including gas turbine series hybrid, and a CNG version
http://www.evworld.com/blogs/index.cfm?page=blogentry&authorid=46&blogid=335&archive=1
-kert
On 1/22/07, Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hmmmm.... what's the big deal about the Volt.
GM showcased their series-hybrid EV1 in 1999, it even seated 4.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:GMEV1serieshybrid.jpg
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On topic of powerful induction traction motors, there dont seem to be
many alternatives around. Companies doing electric street-car, light
rail or tram rebuilds seem to be the best source.
For instance:
http://www.elinebgtraction.at/page/de/59
-kert
On 10/6/06, Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
?? My bad then, I thought induction, as more common type,
is the main line of UQM moors. Sorry, I need to pay better attention
to the info on the web...
So, only synchronous PM machines (As far as usable in an EV) or any
other types as well?
Victor
Andrew Roberts wrote:
> Victor, UQM does not sell any induction machines. As for your other
> questions, I couldn't find a way to respond without sounding like a paid
> advertiser. We can discuss offline.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roderick Wilde wrote:
> That is why Europe uses half the copper in their homes as
> the US does which most likely amounts to a waste of
> resources in the amount of millions if not billions of
> tons of copper. I wonder who thought up that brilliant idea.
> Most likely a copper lobby.
Actually many European homes have circuits fused ranging from
13 to 16A, dependent on the country, so wire gauge is not
different, being dependent on the current, not voltage.
There are a few areas where savings are made with the 230V
standard in Europe and that is that homes need less circuits
because each circuit can deliver 230V x 16A = 3680W in the
case of virtually every Dutch home, where the US has a max
of 120V x 15A = 1800W, less than half the power.
This saves on wiring as more outlets can be daisy-chained
together and still many homes have only 4 breakers, though
newer homes are often built with 6 or 7.
I am not sure but I think is now an equal nr of homes
with 25A service as having the newer 35A service, so
the max available power in most of the homes is between 6kW
and 8kW. Airco is not very common and requires an upgrade.
Another copper-saving technique is using 3-phase.
ALL of the Dutch electricity grid is 3-phase, every street
has 3-phase run through it and usually it is branched into
every house on that street.
Most houses are wired for 1-phase though, so every 3rd house
is connected to the same phase.
Since every house is already supplied with 3-phase, it is
trivially easy to ask the utility company to install a
3-phase meter and have more power in your house, in case
you have a shop with power tools that need more than 16A
at 230V.
Since the voltage between the phases is about 400V and the
standard fusing is still 3x 16A, you have about 10kW "on tap"
as soon as you have 3-phase, though you can install heavier
wiring and fuses and go to 3x 35A for more than 20kW, though
this is seldom done in a home. I do not know anyone charging
from anything else than a house outlet at 3.5kW there.
The reason for the US to stick with 110V is simply historic
choices and possibly safety. It is easier to survive a 110V
jolt than 230V, although I have encountered 3 in my life,
I tinkered way too much when I was still in elementary school.
Note that you can make 110V without having either line higher
than 55V above "ground" level.
Around 55V is the threshold where a normal healthy person
can get a lethal jolt in unfavorable circumstances, but
should be OK usually. So I guess there is a safety aspect
the the choice of 110V.
I have witnessed the change-over of a Dutch town (Delft)
from a 220V system with each leg 110V from ground, to a
the European system with 230V, one Neutral, one Phase.
(allowing 3-phase feeding in the street)
The reason the 3-phase system is so popular is that you
can carry it with 1/2 the amount of copper (alu nowadays)
compared to a 1-phase signal of the same power and voltage.
Reason is that the 3-phase system can be balanced so that
the current flowing through one phase is identical to the
sum of the current through the other two phases.
The consequence is that the centre of the "star" does not
need to be connected by a wire, as it has no current
flowing in or out.
This means that the return conductor is eliminated, so
half the copper/alu is redundant.
Note that the center tap of 3-phase transformers is often
grounded to the earth to allow some differential current
to flow and to guarantee that the "Neutral" wire is close
to the ground wire potential in the outlets.
Hope this clarifies,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Probably the same reason as some people go through the
effort of installing vortex generators - clever marketing
of a change that has no measurable benefit.
And it is cool to say you have Nitro in your tires.
Sounds really hot-rod.
I value it at about the level of a ricer.
(Paint it orange and it goes much faster,
or bolt some cheap sheet metal on the trunk
for more down-pressure on the non-driven wheels)
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Cory Cross
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 7:49 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: OT nitrogen was Re: super skinny/hard tires .. thin tyres in
the 69 psi
Probably the same process as an oxygen concentrator.
http://www.nda.ox.ac.uk/wfsa/html/u01/u01_009.htm
Michael Perry wrote:
>That is the reason mfgrs are going to Nitrogen, from what I'm reading. They
>are putting sensors in the tires, which are affected by moisture. Of
course,
>they could simply dry the air. (Paint shops do this, but it's hard to
charge
>$20 for dry air. <g>.) I do wonder how they extract nitrogen from the air,
>though.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Let's see - 40 miles of all-electric.
If they do their homework it would be 200Wh/mi
so 8kWh charged from a 110V/15A outlet, this means
about 5h charge time if at continuous max power.
Everyone sleeps 5h or more (I hope for you ;-)
so this is perfect for every over-night recharge,
which is exactly what you want to have most EVs do,
ask the utility guys.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Nick Austin
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 8:16 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: NOISY SLOW Volt Video
On Thu, Jan 18, 2007 at 05:22:10AM -0000, Death to All Spammers wrote:
>
> Did she unplug from a 110V cord? How long does *that* take for a recharge?
>
> I guess GM gave up on inductive paddles...
Remember that with PHEVs, charge time is much less important then access to
an outlet. If this thing can fill up in 8 hours, then you'll have covered
most of your driving needs.
If I was putting one of these things together, I would likely include both
a low power and high power charging port. Of course, that's assuming I was
not
worried about consumer confusion regarding the charging requirements.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've been distantly looking into it, but its not going to happen anytime
soon. I do know there is some activity though because I've seen some
obvious cases in the neighbourhood. Seems very quiet though.
On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 06:52:29 -0700, Mark Fowler
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi all,
Well the Fowler family has relocated from Sydney, Austrlia to Edmonton,
Canada for the year of 2007.
(We had to leave the EV behind, but it's in good hands. I hope :-)
What sort of EV action is there in Edmonton?
(Not an awful lot mentioned in the archives.)
What about other nearby places? (Yes, I know, nearby is a relative
term.)
We'll be doing a bit of travelling during the school breaks.
Mark
--
Nathaniel Olsen
--
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bzzzzt, wrong answer.
See periodic table of elements:
http://www.webelements.com/
N is element 7, O is element 8.
The molar volume (consisting of a fixed nr of atoms)
of Nitrogen is 13 cube cm, while Oxygen needs 17 ccm,
so Oxygen is larger than N, in gas form that will be
O2 and N2.
On top of that, air is about 79% Nitrogen (N2) anyway.
All claims about less leaking are pure fiction or
better handling of your rims/tirs at the store,
which they could also do without selling "hot air".
Note: tires are supposed to be glued on the rims, but
putting them on with a machine can scratch the rim.
In addition, you can have nicks or nails in your tire
that cause the tire to lose air through the cracks.
And yes - plain air consists of some water vapor too,
so to minimize corroding the inside of rims, the
tires could best be filled with dry air.
You said it correctly in the first post: it is a fad.
If all the Oxygen were to leak out of a tire and the
Nitrogen stay behind for some reason, then the next
time you pump the tires (containing only the 79% N2
left from the first time) with plain air, they would
then get filled to 96% N2 and 4% O2, because only the
21% leaked O2 is replaced by air, so after some time
you should only have the 96% N2 left, filling it with
plain air results in 99% N2 and 1% O2.....
Indeed, if the lore were true, you would only need
to pump your tires 3x to get the same effect with
your "Nitrogen generators".
Just a tip:
It is recommended to check tire pressure EVERY MONTH.
If you did not check your tires for 15 months you are
as bad as most US drivers who make sure to go to the
car wash for a bling-bling outside of their car,
while never caring for what really matters, such as
your safety, by checking tire pressure frequently.
Your own choice, of course.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Michael Perry
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 7:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: super skinny/hard tires .. thin tyres in the 69 psi
The brochure says that the nitrogen molecule is 5x larger, so is less likely
to leak than oxygen. (Of course, air is already mostly nitrogen.) That makes
sense, I guess. Their figures on leakage are a bit high I think, but I have
seen about a pound a month lost on some cars. After 15 months, I found even
my aluminum rimmed wheels had lost 12 pounds, which shocked me. It added
enough drag to cut my mileage significantly.
----- Original Message -----
From: "GWMobile" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: super skinny/hard tires .. thin tyres in the 69 psi
> Does pure nitrogen has a smaller expansion with heat thus keeping
> pressure constant?
>
> On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 12:58 pm, Michael wrote:
> > Speaking on rolling resistance...
> >
> > The newest fad is for tire stores to install a "nitrogen generator"...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi folk's,
I'm converting a Porsche 914 74' and bought 2 of them to swap parts. In
keeping things as light as possible, I want to replace the full size spare with
a mini-spare tire but having problems finding one around town.
Someone on the EV list emailed me a couple years ago when I was working on
the Bombardier with a vehicle lug pattern chart. Do you know what vehicles
have a 4-lug pattern 130mm (5 1/8") measured diagonally lug pattern? I would
assume most old beetles do but I called all the junk yards here and no luck
even after goolgling for a chart. You can email me off-line if you like.
Thanks,
Mark
---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 23 Jan 2007 at 1:31, Cor van de Water wrote:
> each circuit can deliver 230V x 16A = 3680W in the
> case of virtually every Dutch home, where the US has a max
> of 120V x 15A = 1800W, less than half the power.
Most US appliance circuits are protected at 20 amps, so 2400W (must be held
to 80% for sustained loads).
IIRC, the manufacturer suggested a 20 amp, 120v circuit circuit for charging
Comuta-Cars.
> still many homes have only 4 breakers, though
> newer homes are often built with 6 or 7.
Many newer US homes have 40 or more (using subpanels). Twenty, 24, or 30
was typical several years ago. Four and six fuses with 60 amp services were
last fitted probably 50-75 years ago in US homes. With only 14kW available
(half that for a very small number not wired for 240v!), high power EV
charging is pretty much a dicey proposition for such an old home.
> I am not sure but I think is now an equal nr of homes
> with 25A service as having the newer 35A service, so
> the max available power in most of the homes is between 6kW
> and 8kW. Airco is not very common and requires an upgrade ...
> ... every house is already supplied with 3-phase ... you can install heavier
> wiring and fuses and go to 3x 35A for more than 20kW, though
> this is seldom done in a home. I do not know anyone charging
> from anything else than a house outlet at 3.5kW there.
>
Most newer US homes have 200a service. This is a total power of 48kW. My
older home has 100a service for 24kW. None of my EV chargers exceeds 3.5kW,
however.
Some of the very large houses being built today have 400a service. Many of
these are operating two, three, or more air-con units. I imagine these
homes are just about ideal for high power EV charging since the air-con
typically runs little at night.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
(resend - original hasn't appeared after a day)
G'day all,
As I mentioned earlier, I've relocated to Edmonton, Canada for this
year.
One of the things I want to do while on this side of the planet is to
see some electric drag racing.
So, what are the plans for EV events at Portland this summer?
Nothing on the Nedra site yet. Any Wayland stuff going on?
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I aired my 13 inch tires yesterday. After 6 months they were 32 psi, a drop
of 4 psi, with no noticeable increase in charge time. I suspect tire age,
higher temperatures, and pressure will contribute to the loss.
Bicycle racers sometimes store tires flat on concrete floors for 6 months with
the idea that it reduces rolling resistance.
John in Sylmar, CA
1981 Jet Electrica PV EV with tired old
tires.
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using Endymion MailMan.
http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
G'day all,
As I mentioned earlier, I've relocated to Edmonton, Canada for this
year.
One of the things I want to do while on this side of the planet is to
see some electric drag racing.
So, what are the plans for EV events at PIR this summer?
Nothing on the Nedra site yet. Any Wayland stuff going on?
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, I personally didn't know about it until Ryan Stotts posted about the UQM
Silverado.
http://www.autobloggreen.com/2006/12/01/edta-conference-more-details-on-uqm-s-electric-silverado
Then at the bottom of that page there was a comment from someone named Tim (not
me) which gave this link,
http://www.autoworld.com/news/GMC/Series_Hybrid.htm
I then put something like -- EV1 series hybrid -- into dogpile.com and it gave
me the link below, and many others.....
So, basically even I didn't know about it until about ten minutes before I
posted about it.
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
I-5, Blossvale NY
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Kaido Kert
> Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 4:28 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Chevy VOLT
>
> Wow. How come word about this wasnt more widely spread when the
> initial flurry of Volt announcements hit the media ?
> Heres a more detailed overview of the 4-seater EV1 prototypes,
> including gas turbine series hybrid, and a CNG version
> http://www.evworld.com/blogs/index.cfm?page=blogentry&authorid=46&blogid=335
> &archive=1
>
> -kert
>
> On 1/22/07, Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Hmmmm.... what's the big deal about the Volt.
>>
>> GM showcased their series-hybrid EV1 in 1999, it even seated 4.
>>
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:GMEV1serieshybrid.jpg
>>
>>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It's a work of art!
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Tim Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I have designed and built a battery monitor with LCD display for my
Soleq EVcort (1993 ford escort converted by Soleq) - please take a
look at the design, including schematics, pictures, and board layout
at this link:
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~evtkw/
>
> I would love to hear feedback on the system! See any major flaws or
problems? Like anything? What do you think?
>
> Tim Wong
> 1993 Soleq EVcort
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just nitpicking here, you have a good design but you can significantly
improve accuracy by getting rid of the 10k/6.04k divider just after
the lt1990 in the sense box. You'll need to replace the AD converter
with a higher input voltage converter if you do this.
You also don't have any filtering on the inputs so I'd put an RC
filter where the divider currently resides. A small improvement in
linearity can also be achieved by replacing the LT1990 with an INA148,
though for a lead acid system the LT1990 is probably good enough.
That said, very nice design and thank you for sharing it.
-Peter
--
www.electric-lemon.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Great, Good for you Mario!
Dennis - are you going to be at Firebird anytime soon? It is much closer to
Tucson and some of our TEVA2 Club members would love to see the CE.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
www.Airphibian.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DM3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 10:03 PM
Subject: 120 mph Thrill
>I have been involved in EVs and EV racing for several years but had not
> gone over 100mph on a drag strip until recently. I just want to thank
> Dennis Berube for letting me rip down the strip in the CE-V and see what
> it is like.
> I don't know if I am now in any official 100mph club but I consider the
> experience an honor.
> I wrote a little article you can see at the bottom of:
> https://dm3electrics.com/
>
> Thanks Dennis
> See you at the track,
> Mario
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
1. Re: Fw: Blitz GM to build the Volt
Posted by: "Mike Mercado" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Mon Jan 22, 2007 9:07 am ((PST))
Being an autorepair shop owner by trade, I have read alot about the
Volt's E-Flex drivetrain. What sets it apart from other Hybrids is it's
basic design. On the Honda hybrids the ICE is a very fuel efficient low
torque output unit, which requires electric assist to accelerate at a decent
speed, hence better fuel economy on the freeway. The Toyota system uses the
electric drive at low speeds, low acceleration & adds the ICE under high
loads & cruising, hence better fuel economy in city driving.
The Chevy Volt is basically a short range, Lithium Ion batteried EV, with a
very efficient 1.0 ltr ICE spinning a 53-kW generator onboard to power the
EV drive when the LI batteries are spent. The best part about this design is
that an ICE of any design, that fits the space, can be used without any
drivetrain changes. Wouldn't a Bio-deisel ICE be nice!
My only problem with the Volt is that it will be built by GM. My
autorepair experience does not leave me with alot of faith in our local
manufactures. I have noted that the quality of Toyotas/Hondas built in the
USA is not as good as those built in Japan. This may be due to the fact that
Japanese companies building cars here have local subcontractors supplying
them, or cost cutting measures to offset other higher costs of doing
buisiness here.
My feeling is, that if Toyota or Honda had designed this, there would
not be a question about whether it should be built or if it would be a
reliable vehicle.
Mike Zilla' Mercado
--- End Message ---