EV Digest 6521
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: 300V EV Questions
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Learning more about electronics. WAS: Re: [Evtech] SCR's last orders
by "Martin Klingensmith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Curtis 1231C squealing solution
by rod <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Precharge Resistor Primer
by Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Motor controller options
by Ian Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Curtis 1231C squealing solution
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Motor controller options
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: FWD friction
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Motor controller options
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Finding Rolling Resistance & Cd Empirically
by "Martin Winlow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Project Review
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: 300V EV Questions
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Motor assembly question (was Re: Motor mods)
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Safety Disconnect
by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Motor controller options
by Ian Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Finding Rolling Resistance & Cd Empirically
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Curtis Hour meter
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: 300V EV Questions
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Motor mods
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: 300V EV Questions
by "Dmitri" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: Need advice on Lee Hart's batt-bridge circuit
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Motor controller options
by "Martin Winlow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Motor controller options
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Motor mods
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
From: "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: 300V EV Questions
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2007 22:43:46 -0800
EV #2 is going to be a Toyota pickup conversion. 15-20 mile typical range
at 30-45MPH, relatively hilly terrain. I'd like some suggestions on the
following options:
1) 9" vs 11" motor. I'm thinking 11" because of the hills. My 50A @ 30MPH
VW takes 150-200A to maintain 30MPH on certain road sections. The 11"
should deliver higher torque (at lower RPM) for chugging uphill and have
more power for (occasionally) hauling stuff.
You can effectively get higher torque at lower RPM with the 9 incher by
dropping to a lower gear when you need to. And, maximum power will be
pretty much limited by the batteries and controller, not the motor.
If you're worried about overheating the 9 incher, though, than the 11 incher
will certainly help there.
Phil
_________________________________________________________________
Dont miss your chance to WIN 10 hours of private jet travel from Microsoft®
Office Live http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/mcrssaub0540002499mrt/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There are also the MIT OpenCourseWare modules. I haven't looked at too much
but it seems nice.
<http://ocw.mit.edu/index.html>
--
Martin K
On 3/7/07, Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
If you are interested in learning more about electronics the Navy's
NEETS modules are a great reference. Here is a link to all of them in
pdf form:
http://www.phy.davidson.edu/instrumentation/NEETS.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Matt Kenigson
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 16:03
To: [email protected]
Subject: Learning more about electronics. WAS: Re: [Evtech] SCR's last
orders
On 3/6/07, Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The gate-to-cathode input of an SCR behaves like the base-to-emitter
junction of an NPN transistor, i.e. like a forward-biased diode.
...and then the defromulator connects to the plendergast joint to
emulate a three-frip mertoblorg... ;)
Actually, it's starting to make a little sense to me. Thanks for
putting up with a newbie! I'm really enjoying learning more about
electronics. I guess I should really take some classes or get some
books and study up. My father-in-law still has his books from an old
famous mail order electronics course. Maybe I can borrow them from him.
Matt
--
Martin Klingensmith
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone on the list know how to disable the classic Curtis "Squeal"?
My controller works fine but the squeal is starting to get to me.
Regards, Rod Dilkes
www.dilkesmotors.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I *think* I understand the purpose/need for precharging but would appreciate an
experts overview, especially as it relates to use of the Curtis potbox switch.
This would be with the SW series contactor.
TIA
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
Quick question, does anyone know of any good series DC motor
controllers currently available other than the Curtis and the Zillas?
I notice Dennis Pestka mentioned the Raptor controller for his Datsun
project, I've heard of them before but didn't think they were still
in production?
The Curtis 1231 wouldn't cut it for my project and I'm too impatient
to wait for a Zilla, so at this stage it's looking like I'll have to
build my own controller.. *sigh*
-Ian
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sure: Disconnect the terminals marked +, -, and Batt.,
and remove it from the vehicle.
Seriously, the whine is caused by duty cycle, and is
most pronounced with a 9" motor.
Ie, you start pulsing amps at 1.5 kHz, which is within
the audible range of human hearing. After 5 mph or
so, it jumps to 15 kHz; nearly at the limit, so you
don't hear it.
While it is one of the reasons I switched to another
controller brand, it does have the advantage of being
a pedestrian horn when you are in parking lots.
My 6 years with a Curtis was marked by perfect
reliability. So unless you have 1600-2400 (the latter
for a new DCP Raptor 1200) burning a hole in your
pocket, I'd grin and bear it.
Best to you.
--- rod <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Does anyone on the list know how to disable the
> classic Curtis "Squeal"?
> My controller works fine but the squeal is starting
> to get to me.
>
> Regards, Rod Dilkes
> www.dilkesmotors.com
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Raptor 1200 (ie, 1200A model) is still being made.
It can be purchased via Peter Senkowski
([EMAIL PROTECTED]). So far, it seems to be more
reliable than the 600A model it replaces.
It has the advantage of being able to be used with an
inductive throttle, which interferes with your radio
reception, but on the other hand, you'll never replace
your potbox.
I paid 2400 for mine, but in fairness, there are fewer
connections to make than with a Zilla.
It uses a 15kHz duty cycle, which means no Curtis
Whine.
Finally, There is a company called Belktronix, and the
guy is pretty new but wants to get in the game and
support EVs. He makes a _600 watt_ DCDC converter
(most of ours are around 300-350). I forget the
amperage on his controller, but you can find out on
the webpage.
peace,
--- Ian Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Quick question, does anyone know of any good series
> DC motor
> controllers currently available other than the
> Curtis and the Zillas?
>
> I notice Dennis Pestka mentioned the Raptor
> controller for his Datsun
> project, I've heard of them before but didn't think
> they were still
> in production?
>
> The Curtis 1231 wouldn't cut it for my project and
> I'm too impatient
> to wait for a Zilla, so at this stage it's looking
> like I'll have to
> build my own controller.. *sigh*
>
> -Ian
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
It's here! Your new message!
Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If it stops within 1/4 revolution, then I think you have a problem with
drag and I don't think it's the oil (or at least not mainly).
Have you tried prying the brake pads back from the disc to see if they are
dragging? Perhaps you have a warped disc, does the wheel stop in about
the same position each time?
Have you tried it with the clutch disconnected? If it spins much easier
with the clutch disengaged, that might indicate a misalignment between the
motor and the transmission.
>
> Hi all,
>
> at the Sydney AEVA workshop last night, I mentioned the EVDL's "1-finger
> push test", which our vehicle (Daihatsu Charade) certainly fails.
>
> One thing I've noticed is that, with the front wheels elevated and with
> the gearbox in neutral, hand spinning the front (drive) wheels takes
> considerable effort. It is difficult to get them up to any sort of speed
> (ie. 1 rev / sec), and they stop in a quarter turn or so. By comparison, I
> recently had opportunity to try the same thing with an original ICE
> variant owned by a friend, and it was considerably easier, and the drive
> wheel would spin for a few seconds from a similar speed.
>
> This of course sparked a great deal of curiosity at the workshop, so we
> jacked up the front (drive) wheels of our EV, and everyone had a go at
> turning the front wheels with a view to seeing whether they thought the
> friction was high or normal for a FWD. Typically, opinions varied
> considerably.
>
> I was therefore wondering whether other owners of FWD EVs, or those with
> similar experience, could chip in their 0.2 kh.hrs worth? Does this sound
> normal for a FWD? Should the drive wheels spin more freely? Could choice
> of gearbox oil, which is the simplest thing for me to change, have a
> dramatic impact?
>
> Depending on comments I'll probably try changing out the oil in the
> gearbox on the weekend. While I'm working on the car, is there anything
> else that I could check? There are any numbers of contributors (gearbox,
> wheel-bearings, dragging brakes, ...), but is there a simple way to
> differentiate to identify the biggest culprits?
>
> Cheers,
> Claudio
>
> Sydney AEVA - for Electric Vehicle enthusiasts in Sydney, Australia
> http://sydneyaeva.googlepages.com/
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Depending on the voltage, there are a LOT of options out there. What
voltage are you going to use?
> Hi all,
>
> Quick question, does anyone know of any good series DC motor
> controllers currently available other than the Curtis and the Zillas?
>
> I notice Dennis Pestka mentioned the Raptor controller for his Datsun
> project, I've heard of them before but didn't think they were still
> in production?
>
> The Curtis 1231 wouldn't cut it for my project and I'm too impatient
> to wait for a Zilla, so at this stage it's looking like I'll have to
> build my own controller.. *sigh*
>
> -Ian
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, all,
For my first post I would like to ask all you budding mathematicians out
there if it would be possible (or, indeed, worthwhile) to obtain a donor-ICE
vehicle's rolling resistance and coefficient of drag empirically rather than
by trying to obtain them by other means (very difficult in my case, it seems
- a Daihatsu HiJet van)?
I had in mind finding a quiet bit of smooth, straight road with a slight and
consistent slope between two fixed points, over a measured distance and drop
in height (measurable with a laser level or theodolite). Then, sit the
donor ICE vehicle at the start point, let off the brakes and time the run
and measure the speed at the end point. It would have to be a windless day
too, of course and dry.
I would have thought that from these measurements it would be possible to
then calculate the RR and (with more difficulty) the Cd.
What is the advantage? Well, a/ these values are often difficult to obtain
and b/ you would get a far more 'real life' measurement.
Regards, Martin Winlow.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
a) You are wise to want heat. There are ceramic
heater elements available. Two are best; one will
work okay. Each soaks 30-40A.
b) You might give the new guy on the block,
Belktronix a run on the DCDC, as he makes a 600W unit
for only $395. That way we can find out if he's got
reliability, and start pushing his product. 600W is
nothing to laugh at!
c) A Manzanita Micro charger will accept 120 and 240
input; just make a pigtail that keeps your input
hots-to-hots.
d) Smart to use regulators with your AGMs!
peace,
--- "Pestka, Dennis J"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Gentleman;
>
> It is time for me to S _ _ _ or get off the pot on
> my 1965 Datsun truck.
> I've been procrastinating long enough.
>
> I am in the process of building my battery boxes,
> and have most of those
> details have been worked out.
> (2) in the radiator area, (3) on each side of the
> driveshaft, (4) behind
> the rear end with room for "Future(3) more".
>
> Below is the proposal on what direction I would like
> to take with this
> rest of this conversion.
> Please comment on any or all items.
>
> My original intent was to go to one supplier that
> could supply all my
> components, plus a design package.
> I've been having trouble coming up with this source.
> Some of the hang-ups are my intent to use a Zilla
> controller, sealed
> batteries, retained clutch.
>
> Since this is my first conversion, I am a little
> reluctant to strike out
> on my own.
> I have started to put together my own design
> schematic, and would feel
> better if I could get someone to bless it.
> Is this something that EV Parts or the other
> suppliers can do?
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks;
> Dennis
>
> Here is my tentative plan and specs on my truck.
>
> Performance Desired:
>
> 15 mile everyday range @ ~ 50 MPH, with an
> occasional trip of 25
> miles.
> 60 mile top speed.
> 0 - 60 MPH in 10 ~ ?? seconds.
> 2% max grade in limited areas.
> 1 passenger
> 20 lbs cargo.
>
>
> Truck Specifications:
>
> 1965 Datsun L320 pickup.
> 2180 lb. curb weight with 3900 lb. GVW
> Glider weight should be ~ 1650 lb.
> Small frontal area ~ 12 sq ft
> 24" Diameter Tires
>
> 1st gear = 3.940
> 2nd gear = 2.400
> 3rd gear = 1.490
> 4th gear = 1.00
> Differential = 4.875
>
>
> Conversion Specifications:
>
> - 144V system (12) Odyssey PC1700/65 AGM
> Batteries - 731 lbs.
> Have room for at least (3) more batteries; Could
> take voltage to 180V.
>
> - Regulators to keep me from murdering my
> batteries.
>
> - Adapter to retain the clutch. Anyone want
> to talk me into
> Direct Drive with no Transmission?
>
> - Advance Motor - FB14001A, or talk me into
> a Warp.
>
> - Zilla Z1K or 1200A Raptor controller, or
> ?. If I use the
> Zilla, it gives me the option at a later date to go
> with
> a higher voltage and/or battery
> combinations, if I am
> unsatisfied with Range or Performance.
>
> - DC/DC converter for 144V.
>
> - Charger: What charger do you recommend? I
> have 240V, 30A
> available in my garage, but would it be better to
> stay
> with 120V, making remote charging easier?
> Are there chargers available that will
> operate on either
> voltage?
> Should I consider a charger that can go
> to higher voltages if
> I decide to add more batteries later?
>
> - In addition I would like all the standard
> conversion and
> safety parts for a normal conversion.
>
> - Additional accessories I would like to
> have:
> Tachometer kit
> Heating kit
> Lift kit for pickup bed.
>
> - I will be using the same high quality
> Orange 4/0 cable that
> John put in the White Zombie, since I have a large
> supply that I was able to acquire at the
> right price, "Free".
> Also have quite a few high quality 4/0 lugs.
>
>
> Thanks;
>
> Dennis Pestka
> 1106 South Hwy. W
> Elsberry, MO 63343
> Home: (573) 898-2329
> Cell: (314) 623-9495
>
>
>
>
> > * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*
> * * * *
> * ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED---
> *
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>
> ------_=_NextPart_001_01C760B8.5083CA3E"
> Subject: Project Review
> Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2007 06:58:34 -0600
> Message-ID:
>
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> X-MS-Has-Attach:
> X-MS-TNEF-Correlator:
>
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Thread-Topic: Project Review
> Thread-Index:
> AcbWXQYzsEM/8bSQSTCmJXv6hb+cLyFHE+IgAU210LA=
> From: "Pestka, Dennis J"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "EV Discussion Group" <[email protected]>
> Cc: "Schadt, Andrew M--
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you are only driving at 30-45 mph, then I'd think a 9" would be
adequate. You are going to run the pack down before you over heat the
motor as long as you keep it in a low enough gear to keep the motor RPMs
up.
I'd think the flooded option would have more power, and be easier to
implement. The Deka gels can't handle much current. I'm not sure about
the group 31's, but the Deka Dominators (group 24? 27?) can't handle much
more than 250 amps and that makes them sag pretty badly, especially after
they are a bit discharged.
> EV #2 is going to be a Toyota pickup conversion. 15-20 mile typical range
> at 30-45MPH, relatively hilly terrain. I'd like some suggestions on the
> following options:
>
> 1) 9" vs 11" motor. I'm thinking 11" because of the hills. My 50A @ 30MPH
> VW takes 150-200A to maintain 30MPH on certain road sections. The 11"
> should deliver higher torque (at lower RPM) for chugging uphill and have
> more power for (occasionally) hauling stuff.
>
> 2) 156V vs 300V battery pack. 156V = 26 x 6V floodies. 300V = 25 x Group
> 31 AGM, possibly Deka GELs. I know AGMs=$$$, but low maintenance and
> higher power are tempting. This will be my wife's truck, so the closer it
> matches the original ICE "feel" the better.
>
> Contactor: Kilovac EV200/250 (nice discussion recently).
> Circuit breaker: 3 Heinemann/Airpax 160V breakers in series w/ trip
> handles tied together?
> Relays for heater or DC/DC: Another Kilovac? A FET switch with appropriate
> fusing? I can't find any relays for 300VDC @ 5-10A.
>
> Finally: Any issues using a stock Warp9 or Warp11 with a 300V pack and
> Zilla 1K? (Other than the impact on my wallet?)
>
> -Adrian
>
> .
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Jim,
I've got an ADC motor from a pallet jack that I took apart (out of
curiousity) to look inside. Is there any particular torque I should use
when tightening the long bolts that go from one endbell to the other?
Thanks
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Try De-ox.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 9:53 PM
Subject: Re: Safety Disconnect
> Where might one find "conductive grease"?
>
> I've tried testing the conductivity of Noalox and found it to not be very
> conductive at all.
>
> Bruce
>
> Tom Gocze wrote:
> > It could be set up with some conductive grease for good
> > contact and ease of use.
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.7/710 - Release Date: 3/4/2007
1:58 PM
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Current plans are 50x 3.2V 90Ah lithiums, i.e 160V nominal, but 210V
no load fully charged (@ 4.2V cutoff per cell). The batteries are
rated at <=10C/900 amps peak discharge rate, so it would be nice if
the controller was rated above this.
-Ian
On 07/03/2007, at 11:49 PM, Peter VanDerWal wrote:
Depending on the voltage, there are a LOT of options out there. What
voltage are you going to use?
Hi all,
Quick question, does anyone know of any good series DC motor
controllers currently available other than the Curtis and the Zillas?
I notice Dennis Pestka mentioned the Raptor controller for his Datsun
project, I've heard of them before but didn't think they were still
in production?
The Curtis 1231 wouldn't cut it for my project and I'm too impatient
to wait for a Zilla, so at this stage it's looking like I'll have to
build my own controller.. *sigh*
-Ian
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do
whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your
long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What you are describing is usually called a "coast down" test and is used
to /estimate/ rolling resistance and Cd.
Try doing a google search and you should find tons of info on different
ways of doing it.
> Hi, all,
>
> For my first post I would like to ask all you budding mathematicians out
> there if it would be possible (or, indeed, worthwhile) to obtain a
> donor-ICE
> vehicle's rolling resistance and coefficient of drag empirically rather
> than
> by trying to obtain them by other means (very difficult in my case, it
> seems
> - a Daihatsu HiJet van)?
>
> I had in mind finding a quiet bit of smooth, straight road with a slight
> and
> consistent slope between two fixed points, over a measured distance and
> drop
> in height (measurable with a laser level or theodolite). Then, sit the
> donor ICE vehicle at the start point, let off the brakes and time the run
> and measure the speed at the end point. It would have to be a windless
> day
> too, of course and dry.
>
> I would have thought that from these measurements it would be possible to
> then calculate the RR and (with more difficulty) the Cd.
>
> What is the advantage? Well, a/ these values are often difficult to
> obtain
> and b/ you would get a far more 'real life' measurement.
>
> Regards, Martin Winlow.
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a 700 series, case stile 'R'
This is the round meter with an LCD screen.
There is NO part number anywhere, so I'm not sure what
the voltage range is.
Connecting it to a power supply it comes on at 20Vdc.
The spec sheet says there is a version that operates
from 9V to 60Vdc. This is the closest voltage range.
I'm assuming this meter will work from 20Vdc to 60Vdc
and they changed there specification somewhere along
the line from 20Vdc to 60Vdc to the new spec of
9-60Vdc.
Does that sound reasonable?
Thanks,
Rod
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Adrian,
I am running a Warp 9 while my GE-11.5 is in maintenance. A pickup driven on
hills, where I live, there is no flat areas, its always up or down hill, the
motor should be a Warp 11, which I am going to purchase as a backup motor.
According to Net Gain, the Warp 11 will develop more torque at about half
the rpm of the Warp 9.
The Warp 9 has a maximum continuous ampere rating of 199 amps.
Contact George F. Hamstra at Net Gain - [EMAIL PROTECTED] - and he will
run you a motor spread sheet on your vehicle data. Give him all the data as
to type of vehicle, gear ratio in each speed, axle ratio, size and type of
tires, percent of road grades, maximum speed and what type of controller and
batteries.
He will give you the data on the system you want and than will recommended
what you should have.
There are different models of the Zilla 1K which some are rated at 300 volts
and some are rated over that voltage. If you use a 300 volt battery pack,
and lets say they are 50 each six volts batteries, than maximum charge would
be about 7.7 volts each or 7.7 x 50 = 385 volts which would float down to
about 350 volts which may be too high for the lower volt Zilla 1K.
I am going to increase my battery pack voltage from 180 to 240 volts using
the 300 V rated Zilla. When charge this will be about 7.7 x 40 = 308 volts
for a equalization charge which will float down to about 280 volts which
will be ok according to Otmar at Café Electric.
I am running Trojans T-145's 260 AH 6 volts 180 battery pack. They are now
6 years old, and plan to get another 4 to 6 more years out of them. They may
sag to 170 volts at 400 amps. The maximum sag I had one time was at 165
volts which is my low limit setting at 600 amps. The normal sag is 183 volts
at 200 amps.
My daily range is only 5 miles, but I am pulling a steep grades right out of
my drive way that goes about 1 mile up pulling 300 amps at 25 mph in 1st
gear ratio of 19.5:1. Normally I can run in 2nd gear of 13.5:1 AT 199 amps
at 40 mph which is about 5000 rpm. At 15 mph in 2nd gear with this Warp 9
motor it is still 199 amps, but at a lower RPM of 2000 RPM.
According to Net Gain, the lowest rpm should be about 3000 RPM which they
call the sweet spot for this motor. A Warp-11 would develop the same torque
at 1500 RPM than a Warp 9 at 3000 RPM.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 11:43 PM
Subject: 300V EV Questions
> EV #2 is going to be a Toyota pickup conversion. 15-20 mile typical range
> at 30-45MPH, relatively hilly terrain. I'd like some suggestions on the
> following options:
>
> 1) 9" vs 11" motor. I'm thinking 11" because of the hills. My 50A @ 30MPH
> VW takes 150-200A to maintain 30MPH on certain road sections. The 11"
> should deliver higher torque (at lower RPM) for chugging uphill and have
> more power for (occasionally) hauling stuff.
>
> 2) 156V vs 300V battery pack. 156V = 26 x 6V floodies. 300V = 25 x Group
> 31 AGM, possibly Deka GELs. I know AGMs=$$$, but low maintenance and
> higher power are tempting. This will be my wife's truck, so the closer it
> matches the original ICE "feel" the better.
>
> Contactor: Kilovac EV200/250 (nice discussion recently).
> Circuit breaker: 3 Heinemann/Airpax 160V breakers in series w/ trip
> handles tied together?
> Relays for heater or DC/DC: Another Kilovac? A FET switch with appropriate
> fusing? I can't find any relays for 300VDC @ 5-10A.
>
> Finally: Any issues using a stock Warp9 or Warp11 with a 300V pack and
> Zilla 1K? (Other than the impact on my wallet?)
>
> -Adrian
>
> .
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey James
I believe I got a set of coils for you. With all my
hystaria over this thread I forgot to mention I had
just done a pair of MKZ's a couple months back.
Give me a offlist email or call me at 541-610-7424.
I'll have to see what freight will be. One question
though did you want me to rewrap them or send them as
is, hehee.
I slept in today and just on my first cup of coffee
but I'll get back to you once I crawl into the shop
and get some info for you.
Ya know this threads kinda funny again, LMAO!
Hearing that you're getting low on FusaFab I checked
my stock yesterday and saw I was down to my last roll.
You're gonna want my last roll also don't you! Darn
evil twins!
I'll get back to you in about an hour if ya got you're
ears on.
I wish I had more time to post here but don't. This
will allow time for a nice scab to form before I start
picking it off, LMAO! Being even Evil twins need help
I'll get you get back on your feet before I start
kicking ya more, hows that sound?
All kidding aside, what a bummer.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> At 08:13 PM 6/03/07 -0800, you wrote:
> >Hey James all
> >
> >Well I thought I'd let you have a little return
> giggle
> >at my expense.
>
> Next motor (the second of the pair). Stripped it
> down tonight.... well, I
> should have stripped it down before starting into
> the overhaul and mods to
> the first one...
>
> burnt fields, down to frame.
>
> It's been repaired before - and I guess South
> Australian motor shops have
> short-cut takers like some Tassie shops have. By the
> looks of it the motor
> had chafed through to one of the field poles, been
> pulled down and the
> field poles had been taped around, and reassembled
> and heavily painted.
> Everything was stuck together, and the motor has
> tape around the pole
> pieces that the other motor didn't have.
>
> OK Jim, have your laugh, then tell me if fields are
> available for that
> motor... and if so are they an arm and a leg?
>
> I suspect at this point that Don will probably be
> getting one of my other
> motors...
>
> [Technik] James
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Zilla ratings are nominal, so a 300V pack is within the maximum nominal
rating of the 300V Zilla.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: 300V EV Questions
There are different models of the Zilla 1K which some are rated at 300
volts and some are rated over that voltage. If you use a 300 volt battery
pack, and lets say they are 50 each six volts batteries, than maximum
charge would be about 7.7 volts each or 7.7 x 50 = 385 volts which would
float down to about 350 volts which may be too high for the lower volt
Zilla 1K.
I am going to increase my battery pack voltage from 180 to 240 volts using
the 300 V rated Zilla. When charge this will be about 7.7 x 40 = 308
volts for a equalization charge which will float down to about 280 volts
which will be ok according to Otmar at Café Electric.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nick,
It would probably help to have one capacitor attached to each red LED.
With approximately 1uF (microFarad) in parallel, the voltage of the
red LED does not change with the AC ripple on the pack, only with the
slower DC changes caused by the loading and balance of the pack.
This size still allows approximately 1ms (millisecond) response time
so if the ripple is lower in frequency than approx 1 kHz (SCR controller
for example) then it may be necessary to increase the value to 10 uF.
Voltage is not important, as the LED will limit at around 2V, the
polarity is important if using electrolytic caps (elco) so make sure
the - marking on the housing points to the pack neg side.
Success experimenting,
Cor.
-----original message-----
Hello all,
I just constructed the circuit shown in the email below. It seems pretty
simple and straight-forward, so I figured I couldn't screw anything up.
Well, when I fired it up, all three lights come on. I checked
everything, and figured out that if I disconnected my DC-DC converter,
the two red lights would turn off. But, I don't want to leave my DC-DC
disconnected (Duh!) and I also discovered that when I drive it (without
the DC-DC) both red lights would come on faintly whenever I accelerated
(even slightly). I suspect this has something to do with AC ripple
current from the controller or something like that, but I don't know
enough about such things to troubleshoot this myself.
Any recommendations, anyone?
Thanks,
Nick
Lee Hart wrote:
> Edward Ang wrote:
>> How about this circuit below? [snip]
>
> Yes, this is a variant of my "batt-bridge" circuit. It's a good way to
> indicate the *relative* differences between batteries (which in most
> cases is all you need to know).
>
> The simplest version is:
>
> Pack+______________
> |
> >
> red > R1
> LED >
> ___|/|___|
> | |\| _|_
> Center___| _\_/_ green
> tap | | LED
> |___|\|___|
> |/| |
> red >
> LED > R2
> >
> Pack-______________|
>
> This deceptively simple circuit lights the green LED whenever pack power
> is available, and one of the red LEDs if the voltage of *any* battery is
> about 1 volt different than the rest.
>
> For example, while you are driving, the first cell that goes dead drops
> rapidly under load from 2v to 1v. This lowers its half-pack voltage by
> 1v. If it's in the upper half, the upper red LED lights. If it's in the
> lower half, the lower red LED lights.
>
> While charging, the first battery that goes into overcharge has a rapid
> rise in its voltage. When it is 1v high (like 15v when the rest are 14v,
> this also lights oneo of the red LEDs.
>
> Use high-brightness red LEDs, and a normal-brightness green LED. R1 and
> R2 should be chosen for about 10-20ma with your pack voltage, and both
> must be identical values (use 1% resistors). With a 144v pack and 14.4ma
> for example, R1+R2 = 144v/0.0144a = 10k, or 5k each. These are power
> resistors; each one dissipates P = I^2 x R = (0.0144)^2 x 5000 = 1 watt,
> so use at least 2 watt resistors.
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Try http://www.belktronix.com/
I am considering using their whole 'system' for my conversion soon but there
is little feedback from other users as yet.
Also, I don't know if it's my email that's at fault (it certainly was
initially) or what, but they *appear* a little reluctant to answer emails.
Good luck. MW
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ian Hooper
Sent: 07 March 2007 13:38
To: [email protected]
Subject: Motor controller options
Hi all,
Quick question, does anyone know of any good series DC motor controllers
currently available other than the Curtis and the Zillas?
I notice Dennis Pestka mentioned the Raptor controller for his Datsun
project, I've heard of them before but didn't think they were still in
production?
The Curtis 1231 wouldn't cut it for my project and I'm too impatient to wait
for a Zilla, so at this stage it's looking like I'll have to build my own
controller.. *sigh*
-Ian
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The system sure looks comprehensive but I am having difficulty believing
the whole kit can be bought for $2000.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Martin Winlow
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:28
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Motor controller options
Try http://www.belktronix.com/
I am considering using their whole 'system' for my conversion soon but
there is little feedback from other users as yet.
Also, I don't know if it's my email that's at fault (it certainly was
initially) or what, but they *appear* a little reluctant to answer
emails.
Good luck. MW
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ian Hooper
Sent: 07 March 2007 13:38
To: [email protected]
Subject: Motor controller options
Hi all,
Quick question, does anyone know of any good series DC motor controllers
currently available other than the Curtis and the Zillas?
I notice Dennis Pestka mentioned the Raptor controller for his Datsun
project, I've heard of them before but didn't think they were still in
production?
The Curtis 1231 wouldn't cut it for my project and I'm too impatient to
wait for a Zilla, so at this stage it's looking like I'll have to build
my own controller.. *sigh*
-Ian
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Peter, all
--- Peter Gabrielsson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> I really wish you two lazy bums could have had this
> discussion a
> couple of weeks ago!
Lazy bums... All I do is work, LMAO. Bust my butt all
day at the shop then run an internet motor school all
evening, LMAO! I think I'm teaching the short bus kids
most the time to boot, LMAO!!!!
Well, at least I can give you
> someone to laugh
> at besides each other :)
This threads becoming funnier by the day, hehe.
Misery loves company so join the fray 8^)
>
> I decided to upgrade the brush leads from the rather
> wimpy ones that
> came with the motor to something that can handle
> some current. After
> much hammering on some 1/2" by 1/8" busbars I had
> this absolute
> beauty:
> http://www.electric-lemon.com/?q=node/156
You know other than it didn't work! you did an awesome
job on those. I see you need a roll of FusaFab also
don't you, hehe.
>
> I was even thinking that Jim Husted himself couldn't
> have done it
> better, yeah right! :)
I was actually very impressed!
> All there was left to do was
> test fit it,
> clearance to motor housing looked good, clearence to
> armature.... hey
> why is the armature winding resting on the brush
> leads???
> @%#$%^&@$#!!!
Well I see you're listening to James! Please all, I
have no problem helping out so a quick pic or two can
help to keep the learning curve to a minumum.
>
> I attempted to re hammer the bars into a different
> position but they
> now look like crap and while I cleared the armature
> it's only by a
> hair and it looks like it's dangerously close to the
> field coils. I
> think I'm just gonna give up on it and install 4
> terminals instead.
>
> -Peter (Another caveman with a hammer)
One of these days I'll give you guys a list of my
harser funnier look at some of my hard knocks! All
you have to do is rub a hand over my head to see I've
had more than my fair share of bumps along the way 8^)
I got to run but will write more tonight.
BTW Peter ADC (like Prestolite) uses self tapping
bolts. I asked a Prestolite guy one time what to
torque the bolts to, he didn't have an answer for me
and said it's done by machine. I use a 3/8th impact
gun on a lighter setting. That's all I have time for
right now. I have been known to snap that last bolt
from time to time, of course it's always the last one
I'm doing, just to make it all that more difficult to
redo. If I do get a broken one I replace all 4 to
prevent it from happening again (which has happened
also)
Got to run more later.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
--- End Message ---
