EV Digest 6568
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: First interview
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Otmar Ebenhoech on Peak Momment TV
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: Dual controller/motors?
by Rodney A <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Principle of ***variable*** electric braking via the drive motor?
by "Dale Ulan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: EZGO motor
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: EZGO motor
by "bortel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Otmar's Interview
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Paging Bruce, was: Changes: less us vs them, more af diversity at
tention
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Otmar's Interview
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Precharge Resistor/Capacitor Decay Time
by Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: First interview
by "Freddie Hartsell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) White Zombie at the NHRA Winter Opener, PIR Sunday 3-18
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Motor Ident problem
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: EZGO motor
by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: EZGO motor
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Freddie, Much congratulations! but where do you live and does the paper have
an online version so we can all read the article? Keep on EV Grinin!
Roderick Wilde
EV Parts, Inc.
www.evparts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 5:08 PM
Subject: First interview
Well my first interview went well yesterday with one of our local
newspapers
and the story was on the front page of today's paper. The reporter wrote
a
very positive story on my 1991 Dodge Dakota pickup conversion. I spent
over
an hour at their office and even gave the reporter a ride in the truck.
Which seem to impress him since I had to keep slowing down for the other
ICE
cars on the road? I was not trying to go fast, just keeping the posted
speed limits. I took him for about a 10 minute drive that included city
driving as well as a short drive on a 55 mph country road. Billy, the
reporter's name, was impressed that I was able to achieve 55 mph easily
even
though it was an EV. I took this all in stride since this is a major
misconception of the non-EV folks. As I said earlier the story made the
front page of one of our local newspapers today and I have already had
several telephone calls congratulating me on my truck and the interview.
I
just got off of the phone with the mayor of one of the small neighboring
towns that wants me to participate in a Green Day celebration that they
are
having next month. I told her that I would be very happy to include my
truck in their celebration. I have also entered the truck in a local car
show set for the end of March. I am very happy and my EV grin is getting
bigger. I keep trying to spruce up the truck so that everyone that sees
it
likes it. I feel like this is only the beginning and I hope that I can
raise peoples awareness that EV's are not just golf carts or small slow
vehicles to be avoided.
Thanks to everyone on the list for everything that they have done to help
me
with this project.
Freddie
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
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12:33 PM
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>
> What is so great about this is the shear reasonableness of it all. No
> wide-eyed naivete, or fantatical tree-hugging, or ranting or raving. Both
> interviewer and interviewee come across as completely normal, rational
> people; not talking heads after a sensationalist spin, or someone trying to
> "sell" something. What a refreshing change!
> --
> Lee Hart
>
I've noticed a cycle with what I call EV madness ,, new ev're are so excited
about there EV's and everything , they go on and on ,, and the people around
them get tired of hearing about it , they tend to make EV's sound better then
they are ,, which just makes people more suspicious , cau how could it be so
good ? After a few years , they mellow out ,, or they get the " EV chip on the
shoulder " and seem to wan t to pick a fight with every gas burning they run
into .. More years and the realization that the average person might not be
able to ( or might not want to ) convert their car , and for many there car is
not something they spend a lot of time thinking about . Great interview ,,
Steve Clunn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Actually, I'm based out of Melbourne, Australia.
I am trying to gauge Australian interest in EV's.
While lots of guys in the
USA are interested and would jump at them, we don't
really have anything
here to look at, so I worry that people might be very
slow to accept them?
Hence why I was asking about aussies on the list, who
WOULD be interested if
an EV was available in Australia.
Re AC drives, what did you mean about them fighting? I
would have thought
that you could synch them, so they would work together
to provide power.
Individually, its only peak 44 kW, so pretty weak, but
two together (two
controllers and two motors) should be able to give
reasonable power. I am
hoping to avoid a gearbox, hence the AC setup over a
DC setup... A DC setup
would be a bit cheaper, but without regen, traction
control and shorter
power range (though better low end torque).
Cheers
Rod
At 01:26 AM 17/03/07 -0700, Rodney wrote:
>Hey all
>
>First up.. just wondering if there any many aussies
here, and if there
>is interest in Australia for EV's?
G'day Rodney
Yes there are a few Aussie EVers and EV-wannabes (like
me) on the list, and
a bunch more that are not on the list. There is an
Australian EV association
that was started some time in the '70s, was active
until about '98, then
seemingly did nothing for 5 years or more, then
recently had a flurry of
interest and seems to have gone quiet again, except
for the Sydney branch
which seems to be doing its' own thing.
>Secondly, I know not many people are using AC drive
systems, but any
>opinions on using a dual Curtis 1238 (80V, 550A)
controllers with dual
>AC motors as direct drives (either working together
to single drive
>shaft, or separately to a powered wheel each)? This
is in a 1200 kg
>vehicle (including batteries).
Being AC it would be better to put them seperate to
stop them fighting each
other, but being fairly low on power you probably
should be using a gearbox
- catch 22....
>If it works out in terms of performance (top speed
>120+ km/hr, acceleration,
>0-100 km/hr around 7 sec) then it would be a cheap AC
system? With
>regen and traction control.
It would be, good performance for $s, if you can work
out the drive line...
I'm in Tassie, where are you?
Regards
[Technik] James
____________________________________________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sure I understand you run the motor with no power applied but how do you
make it VARY its braking ability from min to maximum when your vary the
brake pedal pressure? Also how do you stop it from braking if you want
to coast?
You have to deal with different types of motors differently and how they
brake - either dynamic braking like a locomotive does, or regenerative
braking - the way most OEM EV's work (and some DIY conversions). The
easiest to start with is either a brushed permanent magnet, or a
brushless permanent magnet DC motor. Other motors are more complicated.
If you spin a PM motor at a given speed, the motor will generate a
voltage, and generally that voltage is below the battery pack's
voltage. Let's spin the motor at 3000 RPM and say that this particular
motor generates 50 volts at that speed. Also, let's assume that we
are using MOSFET's and not IGBT's at this voltage level.
That means that the motor essentially free-wheels when connected
to, say, a 100 volt battery pack... the diode that connects the
motor back to the battery pack is off, and since the gas pedal is
not pressed, the motoring MOSFET is off.
In order to actually accomplish braking, you briefly
short-circuit the motor (using a power MOSFET).
When the MOSFET is on, current builds up because the natural
voltage of the motor is higher than the on voltage of the MOSFET.
The energy is stored in the armature inductance. When you turn off
the MOSFET, the voltage across the armature jumps rapidly until
the energy stored in the armature inductance dissipates. That voltage
is fed, via a diode, back to the battery. The longer the MOSFET
is held on, the higher the braking effort.
Note that this can be particularly hard on the commutator on some
motors. For brushless DC motors, it's a lot easier, although only
a few brushless motor control chips have a proper '4-quadrant'
regenerative brake.
Is it a variable resistor in the motor circuit and if so where?
Technically there is a variable resistor - it is attached to the
brake pedal or lever, and is connected to a pulse width modulator
which controls the braking MOSFET. It takes a bit of circuitry to
do this - it's not quite so easy. That's how it's done in a real
vehicle application.
Now, that's quite complicated. On a very small motor, you can use
a reasonably high-power variable resistor across the motor to
demonstrate dynamic braking - and it will be variable. But to
actually pump power back to the battery is a bit tricky.
Series motors are more difficult to regen but it can be done.
I am sure it differs for DC permanent magnet motors and ac motors as well.
What are the basic differences in a braking circuit for a Dc vs AC motor
and a magnet versus non magnet moto?.
Then i want to be able to explain how it works (to kids) in an AC car
motor with and without magnets.
An AC motor with magnets (brushless permanent magnet motor) works
identically to the brushed PM counterpart, except that commutation
is handled electronically, and the communtation switches also perform
speed and torque control - and regeneration.
An AC induction motor is hard enough to grasp for quite a few electrical
engineers, let alone kids. Slip? Huh?
I guess it might be not so bad. When trying to drive a load, an
AC motor runs slower than the frequency applied to it. For example,
many fan motors will run at 1750 RPM instead of the expected 1800 RPM.
If the motor is being spun faster than the natural speed it
wants to go at, then it generates power back into the power source.
Thanks to a phase angle change, the motor will push power back into
the VFD, and it will magically appear on the input DC bus. In a car,
the DC bus is connected to the battery so the battery absorbs it.
Conveniently, if you speed the same motor at 1850 RPM, it'sll
pump that amount of power back into the power grid - or try to.
In terms of an automotive-style variable frequency drive(brushless DC or
AC induction), the 'regeneration' or 'braking' circuit is free -
it is a fundamental function of a six transistor variable
frequency drive. Only software needs to be able to deal with a
negative slip. Oh yea, you need somewhere for that power to go.
-Dale
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The prospects of this motor working for your EV look hopeless to me.
It needs a longer shaft, end housing and bearing. This motor will
be too small if your EV is intended to be much faster or heavier than a golf
cart. And if your car must be finished in a month there's no time to waste
with this motor.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Klingensmith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: EZGO motor
I appreciate the replies both Jim and Roderick,
I sent the wrong URLs (they were local URLs to me):
<http://walfstream.alfred.edu/~martin/motor1.JPG>
<http://walfstream.alfred.edu/~martin/motor2.JPG>
<http://walfstream.alfred.edu/~martin/motor3.JPG>
Yes, it's basically all or nothing on this motor. I paid for it and waited
a
month, I have to get this "car" done in a month on way or another!
The pressed-on spline adapter is almost certainly hardened to some extent?
Thanks,
Martin Klingensmith
On 3/17/07, Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hey Martin
First off I wasn't able to get to the pics, so maybe
you can take a look at that.
I do a lot of the EZ-GO cart motors so I believe I
know which one you've got, probably the 73124G01 or 2.
As a golfcart motor it never has an issue with wearing
that shaft spline out I've never had to replace them
and so admit that I've not looked into how they're
attached. You are right in that they are probably
just a pressed on end piece.
It's kind of funny a bunch of these cart motors shaft
threads have popped up being I did just got one motor
that had a bad spline last week, looked like someone
tried to weld something, to be honest I couldn't tell
what actually happened or what the guy was doing on
it, lmao. I just popped a shaft from a dead armature
and simply replaced the whole shaft.
Being there has been so much intrest in this I'll try
and find a minute to see how hard they are to remove
(being I have this mutilated shaft I can test on), and
what size and length of snub shaft remaines.
I've done a number of shaft extentions and I've seen a
lot of "attemted" extentions. The MBD motor I did for
my mini chopper is an extention (it came with a 1/4"
female slot) and it didn't come out to bad. It's one
thing to press on a small spline that is not much
longer than the parent shaft, it's much tougher to
extend a longer shaft and keep it true.
With your motor bought and with not a lot of options
and figuering you're hell bent on trying this 8^P
I'd like to offer a little advise to save you a James
Massey type beating from both the motor and me 8^P
Here are the cons of this armature and shaft. First
the shaft doesn't stick out past the armature windings
so you can't drill and pin it like you'd find in a
Prestolite. For the same reason you can't weld it
very easily either (watch burning the windings if you
try this). This leaves you with a press fit extention
as your only viable option, IMO.
Anyway what I'd suggest to you would be to press on an
unmachined shaft blank and then machine it true vs.
machining something out and expecting it to press on
true. Once I've pressed on my blank I'd use a
steadyrest and put in the center hole and machine the
shaft from there.
I'm seriously doubting that you can remove that spline
end with pullers and a torch (again watch burning the
windings if you don't believe me and must try).
Pressing it off shouldn't be to hard but it's the
grabbing it from inside the windings that's the issue.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- Martin Klingensmith
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I finally got my EZ-GO 6" Advanced DC series motor
> this week. It took a
> month for me to get it after ordering on eBay. Long
> sad story (from the
> seller)
>
> I knew what I was getting into when I bought this
> motor so I'm not going to
> say "oh I didn't know it would be hard to get it
> running", but what I'm
> looking for is a bit of advice from someone who
> knows a bit more about these
> motors. If you look at the pictures:
> <http://walfstream/~martin/motor3.JPG>
> <http://walfstream/~martin/motor2.JPG>
> <http://walfstream/~martin/motor1.JPG>
>
> You will notice that the piece with the inside
> spline looks like it's not
> part of the main shaft. In fact it really couldn't
> be based on the cold-saw
> cuts on the shaft (at the bottom of the spline)
> It also looks like it was heated up when pressed
> onto the shaft (see
> motor3.JPG)
> My question to the more mechanically inclined people
> is: How do you think
> this is attached to the shaft of the motor?
> Do you think I can pull it off or should I leave it
> on there?
>
> The way I see it, I have two options for
> mechanically connecting to the
> motor:
> Find something with a 19 tooth spline that measures
> about 0.834 diameter
> Turn a (round) stub shaft that fits into the spline
> hole and tig weld it
> (making it go out of round?)
>
> Here are a few measurements I made:
> Inside case diameter: 5.85"
> Hole-hole (center-center) distance: 4.375"
> Case thickness: 0.435"
> Depth from edge of case to field windings: 0.395"
> Outside diameter of shaft: 1.35"
> Length of shaft from end to rotor laminations:
> 1.785"
> Length of spline cut: 0.900"
> --
> Martin Klingensmith
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and
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--
Martin Klingensmith
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Martin,
I have had to replace a few of these couplers over the years. Thank the
powers that be, Roderick has always had replacement parts in stock.
What normally happens is the splined shaft from the trans (which happens to
have a worm gear on the other end) will break off its teeth from repeated
stress caused by abuse. Then the almost toothless shaft rotating in the
coupler grinds down the teeth in coupler.
It's not an easy job to get the coupler off, since it is on really good
(When they put them on they heat them and drive them on.) and there is
almost no space to get a puller behind it. I ended up grinding a puller down
enough to get behind it and then, very carefully so as not to damage the
coils, I heated up the couplings rapidly with a torch. This is definitely a
two person operation.
Good luck,
Dan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That looked like a neat plug ,, who sells them and what is the story on them ,,,
> > >
> > >
> > > PS did anyone else catch themselfs yelling at the
> > > screen for him to
> > > unplug the car?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Bruce,
It was more than 10 years ago that I subscribed to your EVLN posts.
The info from them and browsing every online HomePower magazine,
where I stumbled upon Shari Prange's EV conversion columns,
sparked my interest in EVs in the later half of the 90's.
So, I do recognise your contributions and EVangel claim, but that
made it all the more surprising that you deleted the Yahoo EV group
for the US Electricars last week.
The message archive of the USElectricar_ev group was a source
of information that keeps our cars on the road, while several dozen
of new US Electricar truck and sedan owners were able to fix their
vehicles with the aid of a troubleshooting spreadsheet that referred
to specific posts in the USElectricar_ev yahoo group and get their
new EV on the road, but since you decided to delete that group,
a big resource to keep our EVs on the road has been removed.
I heard that Yahoo maintains a copy of a deleted group for a few
weeks, then it gets permanently deleted. Only the owner of the
group can hand over ownership or appoint moderators who will
take care of the group if he chooses not to be involved any more.
But time is running out.
I call on your willingness to keep these EVs on the road, as
they are still becoming available in fleet sales and at least
one hundred of them are running on our highways.
Please revert your decision to delete the USElectricar_ev group
as that has a severe impact on the future of all US Electricar
EVs that are still out there and count on the knowledge stored
in many years of message archive to keep them operational.
(More background below my signature)
Respectfully,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
(More info here:)
- What is a US Electricar?
CvdW> a factory converted Chevy S10 or Geo Prizm with
Hughes AC drive which is rumored to be the predecessor
of the GM EV1 drive train.
- If this is a factory conversion, go there for service?
CvdW> Unfortunately after converting about thousand vehicles,
The US Electricar company ceased to exist.
- How much documentation of US Electricars is there?
CvdW> The remains of the company were bought by someone else
who may have the idea that EVs could take off again
and therefore never released all the information about
the vehicles. Some of it is reverse-engineered, a lot
of the workings were described in postings in the
USElectricar_ev Yahoo group.
Someone even created a fault-finding tree for the car
"Dead truck checklist" that took you through the steps
to get this EV running again, it referred to posts in
the USElectrocar_ev group what to do to correct faults.
- what happened with the USElectricar_ev group?
CvdW> Bruce is very busy and never owned a US Electricar, so
in the first year or two after creating the group, he
occasionally contributed, but he has not posted to the
group since early 2004 and several posts appeared over
the years about new owners that wanted to become
member but could not register for the group and thus
not access the necessary information.
Posting in the group was dwindling down due to the
activity in the second US Electricar group, but it
was a surprise that without warning the group suddenly
was gone last week.
- why two US Electricar groups?
CvdW> In summer 2005 I bought a US Electricar S10 and I needed
help to get it on the road, so I clicked "Join group" in
the USElectricar_EV group and filled out the questions
to become member, which I already was of some 30 other
Yahoo groups.
Three months and four attempts later, I found out from
another EV'er that I could not use my Yahoo email address
(which I used for all my groups) because Bruce had very
specific filters preprogrammed in the scripts that he
ran to manage the groups for him.
With my company email address (this address) I was able
to get a "moderated" membership and for about a month I
enjoyed access to the files, photos and posts of other
members to get help on my car and share my experiences.
Unfortunately the help and sharing was very cumbersome,
because being moderated meant that I needed to wait
until Bruce approved every post I sent to the group.
This meant that I could post a question or send a reply
to an issue on the group and the next week it would
show up on the group.
I am OK with being moderated for the first few posts,
but once the good intentions of a poster show, I expect
to become "unmoderated". When that did not happen, I sent
requests, several days apart, to indicate my problem, that
I needed help and wanted to help others but the approval
process made my contributions lose their value and waste
a lot of my time waiting for response on my questions.
The only response I experienced was that I no longer was
a member of the USElectricar_ev list.
So, after several weeks of trying to get through to Bruce
and with pain in my heart I took the step to start a new
USElectricar group, with the risk that this would cause
a burden for members that wanted to be connected to all
US Electricar owners, as they now needed to go through
two groups and keep track what was posted where. But the
ability of new owners to register and be welcomed by other
owners of this wonderful EV and get the help they need to
work on this car - that was the reason to decide to create
a new group and accept the drawbacks. Not only for me, but
I had intense contact with several US Electricar owners
before making this decision.
The first thing I did after these frustrating 5 months,
was to appoint two of them as moderators in the group with
full authority, so the group would never go unmanaged,
even when I would not be present.
- why keep the old group?
CvdW> Some of the old group's members decided to register for
the new group as well, but about half did not.
In addition, another 30 new owners registered in the last
year and the majority wes very successful in getting their
vehicle back on the road, even though they needed to visit
the old USElectricar_ev group when they were troubleshooting
and the spreadsheet referred them to that group.
With the old group deleted, we now no longer have a fault
finding tree that is meaningful, as the references point
into a "page not found".
- who is affected?
CvdW> All of the 50+ members of the old USElectricar_ev group.
All of the current 60 members of the USElectricar group
and all of the new owners of US Electricar that trickle
in at a rate of 2 or 3 per month.
- what is needed to get the group back?
CvdW> Bruce d Parmenter needs to ask Yahoo to undelete it.
(Only the original owner can decide about deletion and
transfer of any group)
- how difficult is it to transfer a group?
CvdW> If Bruce does not want to spend time on the group or its
maintenance than all he has to do is go to the group
management page, fill out the yahoo ID of the new owner
and click a mouse button.
In the past 3 years there have been several attempts to
convince him that the group needed attention and that
it is easy to assign a moderator, who will manage the
group and avoid burdening him. He never assigned one.
- what will happen to the group?
CvdW> If Bruce does not respond, it will be lost forever.
When he decides to ask Yahoo to un-delete the group soon,
then it will come back with the archives and it will still
be managed by his scripts and new members will usually
not be able to register.
If Bruce assigns a moderator, then he stays owner while
someone else does the work to maintain the group, approve
new members, approve posts from moderated members, switch
members to un-moderated, delete spam and if necessary even
remove members when they repeat violations.
If Bruce signs ownership over, the group will continue to
exist under new ownership and we may even be able to merge
the two groups to end this confusion.
I probably forgot to address some questions you may have, so feel
free to relpy and ask me to clarify, or visit us at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/uselectricar/
Cor.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of bruce parmenter
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 12:45 PM
To: evlist
Subject: Changes: less us vs them, more af diversity attention
Editor's comments [IMHO]:
I pray that my EVLN POSTs to the EV List have been interesting and
informative to the EV List members.
CvdW> They were.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
AVCON
http://www.avconev.com/
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 7:56 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Otmar's Interview
That looked like a neat plug ,, who sells them and what is the story on them
,,,
> > >
> > >
> > > PS did anyone else catch themselfs yelling at the screen for him
> > > to unplug the car?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've been thinking about the controller precharge question and was wondering if
anyone knows (or can estimate) capacitor decay time for a Curtis 1231C
controller? I'm wondering if I could simply use the OEM starter-solenoid wire
to precharge?
TIA
____________________________________________________________________________________
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It was the Monroe Enquirer Journal in Monroe, NC. Here is the URL for the
newspaper website. You need to choose Saturday's date from the drop down
date selection. You can't read the entire article unless you subscribe to
the paper but the picture made it to their website for 3/17/07.
http://www.enquirerjournal.com
I will upload a copy of the complete article later today.
I have already had several people stop me and ask if that was me on the
front page of the paper. Yesterday on the way into town, I stopped at a
local store to pickup some copies of the paper for some relatives of mine
when the store owner asked to see the truck. He could not believe that
someone had actually built an electric vehicle. You must remember that this
is rural North Carolina. While we are not way behind the times we are just
now starting to wake up to the fact that EV's and Hybrid cars are viable
options.
I just want to be a positive source for information on EV's and to try to
show EV's in a good setting so that more people will understand that they
can use them in their daily driving. I tell people that I did not build the
truck to go to Florida but I can drive it into town whenever I want to and
take care of my every day shopping and other errands while I am saving money
by not buying gas.
Thanks, Freddie
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Willmon [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 10:18 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: First interview
Whats towns paper? Will they have it up on a website where we can all see
it?
Congratulations. It'll be kinda wierd now people will be coming up to you
saying "you'r the guy with the electric truck :-)" I
made up some business cards to hand out to send people to the EV Album page.
Congratulations!!
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 3:09 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: First interview
>
>
> Well my first interview went well yesterday with one of our local
newspapers
> and the story was on the front page of today's paper. The reporter wrote
a
> very positive story on my 1991 Dodge Dakota pickup conversion. I spent
over
> an hour at their office and even gave the reporter a ride in the truck.
> Which seem to impress him since I had to keep slowing down for the other
ICE
> cars on the road? I was not trying to go fast, just keeping the posted
> speed limits. I took him for about a 10 minute drive that included city
> driving as well as a short drive on a 55 mph country road. Billy, the
> reporter's name, was impressed that I was able to achieve 55 mph easily
even
> though it was an EV. I took this all in stride since this is a major
> misconception of the non-EV folks. As I said earlier the story made the
> front page of one of our local newspapers today and I have already had
> several telephone calls congratulating me on my truck and the interview.
I
> just got off of the phone with the mayor of one of the small neighboring
> towns that wants me to participate in a Green Day celebration that they
are
> having next month. I told her that I would be very happy to include my
> truck in their celebration. I have also entered the truck in a local car
> show set for the end of March. I am very happy and my EV grin is getting
> bigger. I keep trying to spruce up the truck so that everyone that sees
it
> likes it. I feel like this is only the beginning and I hope that I can
> raise peoples awareness that EV's are not just golf carts or small slow
> vehicles to be avoided.
>
>
>
> Thanks to everyone on the list for everything that they have done to help
me
> with this project.
>
>
>
> Freddie
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John Wayland wrote:
I wrote:
Sunday, it's supposed to dry out and get warm again...tomorrow from
noon on for drag racing at PIR.
11:35 pm, White Zombie up on jack stands, fired up for the first time on
its new twin 360V pack of Genesis batteries! No glitches, no problems at
all. We're up early today at 6:30 am to tidy-up a few last minute items,
then we're off to PIR so we can be in line at the gates by 9:00 am.
Sorry for any confusion over the Friday...no Saturday....no, now it's
Sunday thing. Oh well, we're on for sure today. We'll have three video
cameras on hand, as a trio of excited high school guys are working on
their class project and have selected the adventures of team Plasma Boy
as the subject of thier videography assignment.
The battery pack will be kept at 1000 amps current limit today, even
though there's enough power on board to pull 1500 amps. I guess we'll
see how it all works out pretty soon. The car is about 50 lbs. heavier
than last year's version, but we've added 85 lbs. more in batteries.
Weight reduction efforts are the reason the car isn't any heavier than
it is. In another week, the Strange Racing aluminum Ford nine inch third
member arrives, along with a light weight drag racing Willwood disc
brake conversion kit for the rear axle. These two mods will shave off
another 60-70 lbs. of weight. Ultimately, White Zombie will weigh about
20 lbs. 'less' than the 12.151 second version and will have up to
another 120 extra hp generated from its battery pack!
Hope to see some local EVers at the track.
See Ya.....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Chris
I'm gonna bet that your motor is a GE 5BC49JB447A
which is a valid 6" GE motor number. I know I've done
them before but can't from memory say much about it,
other than I know that number, lol.
GE unlike Prestolite didn't publish test specs or part
books for rebuilders 8^(
I'd need pics to offer much else, like whether fields
are set series, or series / parallel, ect.
if nothing else I'd be willing to bet ya dinner that's
your motor number 8^)
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I am trying to establish the specs of a motor which
> I bought.
>
> It's a 6.7" unit, about 10 inches long, has a keyed
> taper shaft and the
> following number stamped on the case
>
> S5!649JB447A
>
> I have added the exclamation mark in the third
> position because the
> character is indeterminable, but has a looped base
> so maybe a 6,8 or zero, or even a
> character O or C maybe ?
>
> I bought it rated as a 36V, 2000rpm, 96Amps, 4HP
> device, but how many times
> do things not turn out to be what they're supposed
> to be ?
> It has a helical gear on the output shaft about
> 40mm dia and about 25mm
> long, at a guess
>
> Hoping someone might be able to shed some light on
> it for me.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
The fish are biting.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi- Since saveing the spline is not an issue, take a steel bar about a foot
long x 1/2"
thick and 3/8"or so narrower than the o.d. of the shaft spline.
Aproximately 1 1/2"
from one end drill and tap a 1/2"N.F. hole. get a 1/2"N.F. square head x4"
set screw
from a quality nut and bolt store. Remember to use the correct tap drill to
drill the hole.
Insert the set screw in the tapped hole. Place the assembly over the end of
the splined
shaft and screw in the set screw untill it just touches the end of shaft
inside of the spline.
With a 10"-12" cresent wrench within reach, weld the bar on both sides to
the end of
the spline. While still hot from the welding tighten the set screw to
remove the spline.
If it doesn't come free hit the head of the screw with a big hammer and
continue
tightening.
F.T.
> [Original Message]
> From: bortel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 3/17/2007 9:51:14 PM
> Subject: Re: EZGO motor
>
> Martin,
>
> I have had to replace a few of these couplers over the years. Thank the
> powers that be, Roderick has always had replacement parts in stock.
>
> What normally happens is the splined shaft from the trans (which happens
to
> have a worm gear on the other end) will break off its teeth from repeated
> stress caused by abuse. Then the almost toothless shaft rotating in the
> coupler grinds down the teeth in coupler.
>
> It's not an easy job to get the coupler off, since it is on really good
> (When they put them on they heat them and drive them on.) and there is
> almost no space to get a puller behind it. I ended up grinding a puller
down
> enough to get behind it and then, very carefully so as not to damage the
> coils, I heated up the couplings rapidly with a torch. This is definitely
a
> two person operation.
>
> Good luck,
> Dan
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Martin
Well you have the ADC EZ-GO like you stated and if
nothing else I'd take this motor over it's counterpart
GE ClubCar motor that looks a lot like it.
This is a series wound motor and looks really clean
(that is once you get the dirt out) 8^)
Although this would do okay on an MC I have to repeat
what Tom S. had to say. Just to small of a motor to
drive a car 8^(
Sorry to be another nay sayer but I hope you
understand we are trying to help and save you much
time and effort and costs. Like I have said in many a
posts I'm not intrested in helping you (or others)
become EV'ers, I'd rather help make people happy
EV'ers!
It's not always easy to tell people "bummer" news but
it's the responsable thing to do and I can't just sit
back and not say anything.
Bottom line is EVen if you can adapt the shaft, EVen
if you can do the DE plate and mount it in, it just
doesn't have the mass needed to drive a car. And EVen
if it did, it won't do it for long before burning into
a campfire marshmellow in short order.
Anyway you could switch this to a MC motor?
Hope this helps, sorry it may be a bummer to hear.
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
The EVDL motor troll
--- Martin Klingensmith
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I appreciate the replies both Jim and Roderick,
>
> I sent the wrong URLs (they were local URLs to me):
> <http://walfstream.alfred.edu/~martin/motor1.JPG>
> <http://walfstream.alfred.edu/~martin/motor2.JPG>
> <http://walfstream.alfred.edu/~martin/motor3.JPG>
>
> Yes, it's basically all or nothing on this motor. I
> paid for it and waited a
> month, I have to get this "car" done in a month on
> way or another!
>
> The pressed-on spline adapter is almost certainly
> hardened to some extent?
>
> Thanks,
> Martin Klingensmith
>
>
>
> On 3/17/07, Jim Husted
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Hey Martin
> >
> > First off I wasn't able to get to the pics, so
> maybe
> > you can take a look at that.
> >
> > I do a lot of the EZ-GO cart motors so I believe I
> > know which one you've got, probably the 73124G01
> or 2.
> >
> > As a golfcart motor it never has an issue with
> wearing
> > that shaft spline out I've never had to replace
> them
> > and so admit that I've not looked into how they're
> > attached. You are right in that they are probably
> > just a pressed on end piece.
> >
> > It's kind of funny a bunch of these cart motors
> shaft
> > threads have popped up being I did just got one
> motor
> > that had a bad spline last week, looked like
> someone
> > tried to weld something, to be honest I couldn't
> tell
> > what actually happened or what the guy was doing
> on
> > it, lmao. I just popped a shaft from a dead
> armature
> > and simply replaced the whole shaft.
> >
> > Being there has been so much intrest in this I'll
> try
> > and find a minute to see how hard they are to
> remove
> > (being I have this mutilated shaft I can test on),
> and
> > what size and length of snub shaft remaines.
> >
> > I've done a number of shaft extentions and I've
> seen a
> > lot of "attemted" extentions. The MBD motor I did
> for
> > my mini chopper is an extention (it came with a
> 1/4"
> > female slot) and it didn't come out to bad. It's
> one
> > thing to press on a small spline that is not much
> > longer than the parent shaft, it's much tougher to
> > extend a longer shaft and keep it true.
> >
> > With your motor bought and with not a lot of
> options
> > and figuering you're hell bent on trying this 8^P
> > I'd like to offer a little advise to save you a
> James
> > Massey type beating from both the motor and me 8^P
> >
> > Here are the cons of this armature and shaft.
> First
> > the shaft doesn't stick out past the armature
> windings
> > so you can't drill and pin it like you'd find in a
> > Prestolite. For the same reason you can't weld it
> > very easily either (watch burning the windings if
> you
> > try this). This leaves you with a press fit
> extention
> > as your only viable option, IMO.
> >
> > Anyway what I'd suggest to you would be to press
> on an
> > unmachined shaft blank and then machine it true
> vs.
> > machining something out and expecting it to press
> on
> > true. Once I've pressed on my blank I'd use a
> > steadyrest and put in the center hole and machine
> the
> > shaft from there.
> >
> > I'm seriously doubting that you can remove that
> spline
> > end with pullers and a torch (again watch burning
> the
> > windings if you don't believe me and must try).
> > Pressing it off shouldn't be to hard but it's the
> > grabbing it from inside the windings that's the
> issue.
> >
> > Hope this helps
> > Jim Husted
> > Hi-Torque Electric
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Martin Klingensmith
> > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > I finally got my EZ-GO 6" Advanced DC series
> motor
> > > this week. It took a
> > > month for me to get it after ordering on eBay.
> Long
> > > sad story (from the
> > > seller)
> > >
> > > I knew what I was getting into when I bought
> this
> > > motor so I'm not going to
> > > say "oh I didn't know it would be hard to get it
> > > running", but what I'm
> > > looking for is a bit of advice from someone who
> > > knows a bit more about these
> > > motors. If you look at the pictures:
> > > <http://walfstream/~martin/motor3.JPG>
> > > <http://walfstream/~martin/motor2.JPG>
> > > <http://walfstream/~martin/motor1.JPG>
> > >
> > > You will notice that the piece with the inside
> > > spline looks like it's not
> > > part of the main shaft. In fact it really
> couldn't
> > > be based on the cold-saw
> > > cuts on the shaft (at the bottom of the spline)
> > > It also looks like it was heated up when pressed
> > > onto the shaft (see
> > > motor3.JPG)
> > > My question to the more mechanically inclined
> people
> > > is: How do you think
> > > this is attached to the shaft of the motor?
> > > Do you think I can pull it off or should I leave
> it
> > > on there?
> > >
> > > The way I see it, I have two options for
> > > mechanically connecting to the
> > > motor:
> > > Find something with a 19 tooth spline that
> measures
> > > about 0.834 diameter
> > > Turn a (round) stub shaft that fits into the
> spline
> > > hole and tig weld it
> > > (making it go out of round?)
> > >
> > > Here are a few measurements I made:
> > > Inside case diameter: 5.85"
> > > Hole-hole (center-center) distance: 4.375"
> > > Case thickness: 0.435"
> > > Depth from edge of case to field windings:
> 0.395"
> > > Outside diameter of shaft: 1.35"
> > > Length of shaft from end to rotor laminations:
> > > 1.785"
> > > Length of spline cut: 0.900"
> > > --
> > > Martin Klingensmith
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
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>
=== message truncated ===
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--- End Message ---
