EV Digest 6851
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: Two 9's vs one 11" and other motor ramblings
by MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: aluminum wire for EVs?
by Marcin Ciosek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Motor Adapter plate
by MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: High Speed Electrical Winch (Wakeskating, Surfing)
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Still the plasma King, a Siamese8 update
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Motor Adapter plate
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Battery - Fuel Cell Hybrid Idea
by Mark Freidberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Thundersky
by Stephen Brawner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Last choice is TL EV was Careful!! Re: Prius project
by Tony Hwang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Thundersky
by Stephen Brawner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Still the plasma King, a Siamese8 update
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Battery - Fuel Cell Hybrid Idea
by Tony Hwang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: High Speed Electric Winch
by Paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Still the plasma King, a Siamese8 update
by "Marty Hewes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Still the plasma King, a Siamese8 update
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Motor Adapter plate
by Rich Long <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Thundersky
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
18) Re: Still the plasma King, a Siamese8 update
by "Marty Hewes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Thundersky
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
20) Re: Modular Equalization?
by Mark Freidberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Motor Adapter plate, accurate measurements
by "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
>Jim Husted wrote: <
>
> Actually Wayland was just here yesterday, so I sent
> him home with Willmons 9's LMAO!
Heh, heh, I'd like to see him fit them in the Dautsun when even the two 8's had
to be shoehorned before the siamesing surgery.
I see my last e-mail still hasn't made it to the list yet but one piece of
input I had on the whole two 9's or one 11" thing was that with an 11" the
added weight of the 2-speed tranny or custom gearbox is going to outweigh the
coupler and switching contactors. The other good point you and Rod mentioned
was the added comm area,... I just wanted to point out too that its been proven
a benefit of the two (anythings) is that if you zorch a set of brushes on one
motor, you can still get 30 miles or so on the other one ;-P bobble bobble.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
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--- Begin Message ---
Sure, you can use aluminum but to compensate lower conductivity you need to
increase wire thickness. I use factor of 1.4 to for replacing copper with
aluminum. If you use to thin wire you will loose some of energy on heat.
Marcin
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
And for your location Tehben, $150 will certainly not cover it. After my first
plate didn't fit because of a mix up between the 2WD version that was in their
library and the 4WD version that was on my truck, I actually built a detailed
drawing and sent to them. After the long wait two times, I got my plate and it
did fit snugly. Almost too snugly. In fact I have on occasion mentioned to
them that to use my drawing for a template in their library for a Mitsubishi
KM145 transmission for a 4WD MightyMax that they need to move each of the two
holes with the pilot bushings outboard by .005" each. ( the error was most
likely in my measurements on centering the holes on the input shaft since it
wobles a bit when unsupported.)
A few pushes with the round file fixed the problem and the thing fits tight and
is actually centered. No vibrations no wobbles whatsoever.
I know it doesn't seem like it when you are waiting, or even still for the next
few months. But after a year of driving it now I'm happy with it and still
glad I bought it from them.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thursday, June 7, 2007 12:38 pm
Subject: Re: Motor Adapter plate
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> "If you are buying a kit from us, we will pay for the shipping in
> both
> directions, up to $150 total. This is how we expand our library of
> patterns. For details on how to ship your transmission to us ..."
>
> Depends on the definition of "kit," I suppose. Looks like you're
> right:
> $5575 and up.
>
> I stand corrected.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
trev scribby wrote:
David Roden, Jim Husted, Jeff Shanab, Phil Marino,
Thanks so much for helping me out. i am a newb,
getting my feet wet in electricity is fun stuff.....
I sure hope you don't mean this literally ;-)
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim Husted wrote:
> Flashing forward a bit I was able to pull the motor
> apart and low and behold are massive rub marks on the
> rear output side 8^o What's been happening is the
> rear end of the motor has been waggling around in
> circles like a dog sniffing an ass crack as it pumped
> out what must be getting close to 800 ft.lbs. The
> front side being mounted at the end is in awesome
> shape.
Could you explain this a bit more when you have a chance?
I'm not really clear how it is possible for this sort of rubbing to
occur if the shaft is held by a bearing at each end of the housing.
That is, how does the shaft wiggle enough to rub unless the bearing is
shot?
The only thing I can come up with is if enough sideways force were
exerted on the driveshaft relative to the motor housing that the motor
shaft actually flexed (bowed) sideways inside the motor, which would
result in rubbing marks midway between the bearings supporting the shaft
as it passes through the rear motor.
I suppose the simple thing is to just take away the advice to support
both ends of the motor, but I'm one of those guys who likes to
understand why they are doing something. ;^> It's be nice to understand
if this is something specific to the Husted siamese configuration or the
Wayland drivetrain, or if it applies equally to more conventionally
coupled motors (with 4 bearings between them), etc...
Thanks,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
ElectroAuto made a beautiful taperlock hub coupler for me.
Even if you don't decide to build one yourself, I'd highly recommend the videos
at http://www.grassrootsev.com to see how he makes his, just to better
understand if nothing else.
----- Original Message ----
From: Tehben Dean <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Thursday, June 7, 2007 10:39:34 AM
Subject: Motor Adapter plate
What is the normal/best place/way to get/make an adapter plate to
mate the motor to the transmission?
____________________________________________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Check out my idea:
1. Manufacture battery to *maximize* generation of
Hydrogen when cycling, instead of maximizing
recombination as SLAs do.
2. Route the Hydrogen to the fuel cell side of the
device, which then generates more power.
3. Route waste water from fuel cell back into battery.
4. Charge battery with any excess electrical output
from fuel cell (like when's there's no other
application demand on fuel cell). Of course also
charge battery from wall as needed.
Thoughts?
Mark
____________________________________________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2007 18:21:34 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Motor Adapter plate, accurate measurements
From: "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
On Thu, June 7, 2007 4:23 pm, MIKE WILLMON wrote:
> by .005" each. ( the error was most likely in my measurements on
> centering the holes on the input shaft since it wobles a bit when
> unsupported.)
Mike, how did you make this measurement?
What's the most common way of doing it, with say a couple thousandths'
accuracy?
I was excited to see something like the Brown and Sharpe Centerline Plus kit:
http://tinyurl.com/24zv2p
The cone points would allow you to measure the distance between hole
centers, and seems ideal when paired with a long digital caliper for
measuring the hole spacing on a transmission or engine. Trouble is,
they're only a half inch in diameter -- not big enough. And, I can't find
any other product like this anywhere.
Also, I've been told that the cumulative error in measurements would add
up excessively, when triangulating the hole positions in CAD software.
(These were seasoned and accuracy-paranoid machinists, who also told me I
should measure the engine instead of the "soft, flexible" aluminum
bellhousing, and I should measure at least a half dozen identical engines
to average against manufacturing variations.)
The measurement step seems like the hardest part of making an adapter
plate, and certainly makes EA and the specialized tools they claim to have
seem a tempting option. If you're really going to do it yourself though
and you want a fairly accurate measurement, how do you go about it?
--
Christopher Robison
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://ohmbre.org <-- 1999 Isuzu Hombre + Z2K + Warp13!
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