I've done this too. Not actually with the lights on, just a weak 12v battery that would die if left unattended too long. Here's a quick tip, instead of jumping the 12v battery with 4 of your traction pack cells, just jump the terminals of the contactor that powers the DCDC. In my case it was controlled by an EV200 contactor, and a quarter jumps the terminals quite nicely. :-) Once the DCDC is powered, you have 12v to the battery, and the contactor will now stay on itself as intended.
I did have the same issue where the 12v battery died overnight and shut down the MiniBMS, which shut off the charger. Bummer, but at least it happened at home. I just drove another car that day, since I had no way of knowing how much it had charged before getting cut off. I now have the DCDC always on, and don't have this problem anymore. david. http://www.evalbum.com/4021 >________________________________ > From: Mike Nickerson <[email protected]> >To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]> >Sent: Monday, January 7, 2013 9:31 PM >Subject: [EVDL] Need 12V to Charge? >However, I was prepared for this. I have been carrying a couple of 10 ga. >wires in my trunk for just this reason. Each cable had an alligator clip on >one end and a ring terminal on the other end. With the key on, I connected >the clips to the 12V battery terminals and simply touched the ring terminals >across 4 of the LiFePO4 cells. That was close enough to 12V. With that >voltage, the main contactor engaged and the DC-DC converter turned on. >After that, I could remove the cables because the DC-DC converter was >keeping the 12V system alive. > _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
