Sounds to me that either the person did not know what he was doing or used whatever was lying around in an attempt to reduce the problem that you are now also experiencing, without looking into real solutions that you could achieve with either reprogramming the controller for a smoother ramp-up of current or a new potbox if that is the problem.
I too added a resistor to my potbox and controller, but that was because all the action was in the first 1/4 of accelerator pedal travel - right in the zone where my potbox has a bad spot (probably that is related) so I added a resistor parallel to the potbox to move the area of action higher up, in this case further down the pedal travel (beyond the first 1/4, more like between 1/4 and 3/4 pedal travel). Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.info Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626 -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Steve Powers Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 4:00 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [EVDL] Programmer for ZAPI H2B I have a Zapi H2B and am struggling with jerky acceleration. The controller has a lot of features that can be programmed and I am sure some of them could help. Looking at the manual, it does not give the model number for the programmer. But, in the picture, it looks a lot like the one on e-bay right now. The e-bay item is: 161012199825 With the adapter cable, it looks like an 8 pin connector which matches the 8 pins on my controller. But, only 6 of the 8 pins are connected. It appears to have: UP DOWN, FUNCTION SELECT, +12 -BATT NCLTXD, PCLTXD. But, if they last 2 wires are not connected, then it does not have NCLRXD and PCLRXD. What that means to me is that is is missing both of the receive signals and it only transmits. Not sure if it will work with only the 6 wires connected, even if the adapter clearly goes from a 6 wire to 8 wire. Has anyone used a Zapi H2B controller and one of these programmers. Maybe the guy who built this car originally or EVParts who sold him the kit? I'd like to tweak the "deadzone" on the throttle at startup. I may also want to tweak the regen. One interesting thing I found in this car is that whoever built it put a very high power 500 Ohm resistor in line with the pot box. So, even excluding the start switch, it starts at 500 Ohms and goes to 5500 Ohms. When the switch is engaged (Curtis PB6 pox box), it is probably 1k Ohms. No wonder it is impossible to take off smooth. But, there has to be a reason why he put that 500 Ohm in there. Might have something to do with the regen and not wanting the throttle ever to go to zero. That's just a hunch. I have no idea why, but it was clearly intentional. The manual says it can compensate for any range of throttle and the start and stop is adjustable. So, it seems like I could adjust this right out and smooth out the acceleration. I'm very hesitant to just remove the extra 500 Ohms. It has to be there for a reason, and I have no idea why he used such a massive power resistor on a control line. It isn't like it needs to dissipate a lot of heat, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20130427/c1eb e509/attachment.htm> _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
