The resistor and capacitor are in parallel, then those two are connected
to the contactor coil. There is no difference if they are connected at
the positive or negative side of the contactor coil. The only thing to
check is that the capacitor is oriented the right way, its positive side
to the positive supply that supplies the coil. Just put it in series
with the coil and measure the voltage drop, then verify that the
capacitor + is higher than its negative side.

Do not put a capacitor across the coil, that will only reduce the speed
of the contactor and cause severe arcing.

You can measure the contactor coil resistance when it is not active - if
it has a connector then you can pull the connector off and then measure
the coil itself. 

I expect that as soon as the coil resistance is known, Lee or someone
else can make this circuit for you (power resistor + large capacitor)
and send it to you for a small fee.

Regards,

Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.info
Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626


-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of Mike Malmberg
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 11:27 PM
To: evdl
Subject: Re: [EVDL] negative contactor heating up and BMS analogue
control

Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 22:13:00 -0500
From: Lee Hart <[email protected]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] EV Digest, Vol 8, Issue 39
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Mike Malmberg wrote:  my responses below and thank you so much
> coil has 14 volts

The Tyco LEV200 data sheet says it has a 12vdc coil, and is rated for
9.6v minimum, 13.2v maximum. 14v is more than its rated voltage, so it
would get hot.

My suggestion would be to add a series resistor, with a capacitor in
parallel (called a "slugger" circuit). Choose the resistor to drop the
steady-state voltage a few volts. Oddly, the data sheet doesn't give the
coil resistance, so you'll have to measure it or experiment to find the
right resistor value.

--So a series resistor on positve or negative side of coil.   coil
resistance measured with an ohm meter across the coil while the coil
is off or energized?
Is there some math I need to do to calculate the resistor value that I
need?

Then, the capacitor in parallel initially applies the full voltage, to
make the contactor pull in quickly. Something like a 10,000uF
electrolytic capacitor rated at 6vdc or more will do it.

--And this capacitor goes across the coil of the contactor, yes?

> I realize that the BMS should have control over that contactor, and so
my
> charger negative should go on the other side of the contactor
(controller
> side rather than battery side). Will that affect the contactor
heating?

No. You aren't running enough current for its contact to produce any
significant amount of heat.

> Also, nobody responded on the bms control question,  I flipped the
diode
> the other way around and I  have no throttle at all.

I can't help you there. Sounds like you had the diode the right way to
begin with. Was it in fact limiting the throttle when the BMS sensed a
low cell voltage?

--no that was why I started asking questions, it had no effect on the
current output at all.  when checking it the original way I had it
hooked up,
 I believe I had 5 volts on bms side of the diode and 1.2 volts after
the diode.  Does that sound right?
I have gone through the check that Orion recommended which was to pull
the current sensor to see if the BMS responded and it did drop to zero
volts.  so full pack 5 volts and no pack 0 volts (.03v )


--
For every complex problem, there is a solution that is simple, obvious,
and wrong. -- H.L. Mencken
--
Lee A. Hart, http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm
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