There is a programing mode in the Z1K motor control that is call AMPS on TACH.  
In this mode the motor ampere will read on the tachometer.  For every 1000 rpm 
indication means 100 motor amperes. 

I also using a 800 motor ampere meter that uses a shunt.  Its a small A&W 2.5 
inch meter that is some what hard to read the small graduations between 0 and 
100.  So I try the AMPS on TACH mode which changes the large 4.5 inch Stewart 
Warner tachometer to a motor amp meter.  

My speedometer is a Stewart Warner type that has tach indications on it too 
which tells me the motor rpm.  

I travel up a 1 mile hill from my drive way every day.  The tach reads 300 
ampere starting out and the motor ampere comes back to 200 amperes at a steady 
25 mph.  The battery ampere is reading 75 amps. 

Coming down this hill, leaving the transmission in gear so as to keep below the 
maximum speed limit of 25 mph, the battery ampere reads 0 ampere, but the motor 
ampere is reading 30 to 40 ampere?

If I shift to neutral, the motor and battery ampere is reading 0 ampere.  

Leaving the transmission in a gear, the inertial of the vehicle is driving the 
motor rpm up higher when the EV went up this hill is generating this current 
which is looping through the motor circuit or a freewheeling diode?

My old Cable Form controller had a REGEN circuit that charge a bank of 
capacitors in it using a standard transmission.  The automatic transmission has 
a PUSH TO START mode which allows the coasting down a hill will allow the motor 
to keep turning which I wanted to drive my inverter alternator to keep 
generating the 12 volt power. 

Have anyone tested out this AMP on TACH mode to see what happens?

Roland 

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