That's a really interesting idea. Thanks!

2 x 4 awg is the same cross-sectional area as 1 x 1 awg (42.4 mm²) so
I should be able to put 2 x 4 awg wire into a single 1 awg lug for my
connections. I'm using a pair of SB350 andersons for an emergency
disconnect; those lugs are sized for 1/0 awg but I was going to use a
pair of 10 awg solid pieces as core to ensure a snug fit in those
connectors; that would be even easier to do between two pieces of
stranded 4 awg than introducing them into a single 1 awg. I might need
to buy different heat shrink tubing but that's easy to check...

No conduit in my application, just grommets for any through-holes
required to route, and anchored cable ties to hold them in place. If I
route them not touching each other, that will keep them coolest.

(Leaving the 4 awg in place would involve letting it sit in the box; I
haven't started the conversion yet—need to keep using the ICE to
vacuum up leaves until the trees are bare; then I'll have enough time
to do the conversion as a novice... I had planned to re-purpose the 4
awg for welding purposes. But I can just buy more 4 awg instead.)


On Sat, Nov 2, 2013 at 12:38 PM, Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hello Michael,
>
> Just leave the 4 gage in place and install another 4 gage in parallel with 
> the existing wire.  We do this all the time in old and new installations.  
> Two 4 gages in parallel will run cooler than one 1 awg cable because of more 
> surface area.
>
> If you installing these wires in a conduit such as a water proof flexible 
> plastic or metal conduit, it is best that the conduit is 60 percent larger 
> than the wire to allow air flow.  Do not seal the end of the conduits, unless 
> it is connected with seal tight box connectors to a ventilated enclosure.
>
> The current capacity of the wire should at least 1.25% larger than the 
> continuous current in the wire.  Example:  If you draw 100 amps continuous, 
> then a wire good for 125 amps should be used.
>
> Two 4 gage wires with a temperature rating of 75C is about 80 amps per wire 
> or 160 amps total for a standard insulation wire in conduit.  Not in conduit 
> suspended in air for 100 feet is closer to 200 amps allowing for a 3 percent 
> voltage drop.
>
> Roland
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Michael K Johnson<mailto:[email protected]>
>   To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
>   Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2013 9:06 AM
>   Subject: [EVDL] Wire gauge for 48V lawn tractor/mower conversion: 
> sanitycheck
>
>
>   I'm new to the list. I expect this has been discussed before but I
>   haven't found the right search terms. I apologize if so and would
>   appreciate a pointer.
>
>   I'm also entirely new to EV conversions. I've been scouring the net,
>   and have purchased most of the items to convert my lawn tractor to an
>   EV this winter. I'm using the ME1004 as a "drop-in" replacement for
>   the ICE in my existing hydrostatic-drive donor tractor, not doing
>   separate deck motors. I know several of the things I'll want to do to
>   reduce loss (belts, bearings, lube, new sharp blades, etc.) and I
>   understand the single motor/multi motor tradeoffs and already have the
>   ME1004... ☺
>
>   From what I've seen so far, ME1004 conversions on lawn tractors at 48V
>   consume 70-100 amps while actually mowing, and may momentarily consume
>   up to 200 amps while spinning up the mower deck.
>
>   I misread something somewhere (I don't even remember where anymore) as
>   indicating that since I expect to have 20 feet or shorter, I could use
>   4AWG fine-strand welding cable, so I bought some. Then I learned that
>   this might have been somewhat optimistic, so I'm expecting to chalk
>   that up in the "mistakes" column. I found the helpful articles at
>   engineeringtoolbox.com and a few references on resistance of copper
>   wire and am trying to calculate real voltage drop instead of following
>   rules of thumb. In particular, I'm looking at
>   
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge>
>  and
>   
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/copper-wire-d_1429.html<http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/copper-wire-d_1429.html>
>  which both
>   have similar numbers for ohms per thousand feet for copper wire.
>
>   I intend to fuse the conversion no larger than 400 amps and possibly
>   at 200 amps using an ANL fuse. So I've been calculating voltage drop
>   over 20 feet (and also, pessimistically, at 30 feet in case it takes
>   more cable than I expect) at 100 amps, 200 amps, and 400 amps.
>
>   My understanding is that I want to keep the voltage drop below 2%, so
>   with some room for error it seems like I want less than 0.9V drop in
>   normal operation, and not go much above it momentarily.
>
>   I'd like a sanity-check on my math, as well as the wisdom of the list
>   on recommended wire gauge...
>
>   For resistance per Kft, I am using:
>   1/0 awg: 0.09827
>   1 awg: 0.1239
>   4 awg: 0.2485
>
>   (I see no point in buying smaller than 1 awg if I replace the 4awg I
>   bought, so I'm ignoring 2 awg in my calculations.)
>
>   It looks to me like the voltage drop per 10 feet at 100 amps is the
>   same as ohms per Kft, since I divide by 100 to get the resistance of
>   10 feet, then multiply by 100 amps to get the voltage drop, so it
>   cancels out. Multiplying by 2 should give me voltage drop at 20 feet
>   at 100 A (my expected normal operation) and by 8 should give my
>   voltage drop at 20 feet at 400A.
>
>   Since 1/0 awg is more than twice as expensive as 1 awg as well as
>   harder to work, I'd prefer to use 1 awg. I calculate that 1 awg
>   (0.1239 Ohms/Kft) should drop about 1/4V at 100A at 20 feet (max
>   normal load) and about 1V at 400A at 20 feet (max momentary load).
>
>   Am I missing anything?
>
>   Thanks much!
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