Thanks Roland,
I ran the motor for a while off 12 volts and sprayed some non-flammable
cleaner in there.
It is actually much quieter now.
I was never able to get much of a reading on the resistance to the frame
of the motor. There wasn't enough conductivity for my multimeter to get
much of a read.
The motor seems to be doing fine. The commutator is shiny and smooth
after I cleaned it off.
So, I'll have to track down my problem elsewhere. Hopefully it isn't a
problem within the zilla itself.
-Jeremy
On 11/10/2013 02:05 PM, Roland Wiench wrote:
Hello Jeremy,
The ampere is about right with the transmission. My Warp 11 when new draws
about 30 to 40 amps unload without the transmission. There was a lot of
clicking noise which was cause by the rugged sharp edges of the communtator
bars.
I pull the rotor out of the motor and V-file these edges and then micro-mirror
the surface of the communtator which was done a lathe with crocus cloth. The
spare motor which is a GE-11 motor which has the same frame size of the WarP-11
was micro-mirror and V slightly at the GE factory.
It is a good practice to replace the bearings every 10 years with a high
quality high temperature seal bearing. I used GE motor bearings. The bearing
hardness should be match a little less harder then the communtator hardness.
Too soft and the brushes will wear more which will provide more brush dust and
less wear on the communtator. If the brushes hardness is a little less harder
than the communtator hardness, the brushes will last longer, but the
communtator may have to be turn by a motor shop because of increase wear.
Any way I would pull the about every 10 years, remove the rotor and take it to
a motor shop to have it tested, turn and recondition as required. I also have
a motor shop submersed the rotor in motor enamel and bake. The communtator is
then turn to clean the enamel of the communtator bars.
Before dipping the rotor in to motor enamel, tape the motor shafts from the
bearing surfaces to the outer end of the motor shaft. Do not tape from the
edge of the bearing surface to the face of the communtator bars, you want motor
enamel on the portion of the shaft so as to prevent brush dust to provide a
conductive path to the motor shaft and motor frame. The front face of the
communtator bars are also cover in motor enamel, which also prevents conduction
to the motor shaft.
If you notice in some motors, there is only a 0.125 of a inch separation
between the face of the communtator and motor shaft. Brush dust will bridge
this gap causing decrease in resistance.
On receiving a new motor or a recondition motor, it is best to record the
resistance of the rotor circuit separated from the field circuit. Then
connected the rotor and field circuit together and measure this resistance.
Next you test the resistance of the rotor circuit, the field circuit and motor
circuit to the motor frame. You then will have a reference for future testing.
On a new motor it is common to read over 20 meg ohms to frame. A DC motor with
brushes, it is common for this resistance drops in time. My motor in 10 years
was reading about 50 K ohms. When it reaches between 30 to 50K ohms it is time
to have the motor recondition.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeremy Green<mailto:[email protected]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 9:54 AM
Subject: [EVDL] 9" adc series motor typical current draw (from 12v)
Hello everyone,
I’m trying to diagnose some odd problems I’m experiencing with my EV and was
just running the motor off of an optima that I had laying around and was
wondering what the typical current draw of an FB4001 motor is off of 12 volts.
I’m seeing around 50 amps. It is mostly unloaded, it is still attached to the
transmission in neutral so it is spinning the gears.
My motor has sounded a bit whinier than I remember it since I got my car
back on the road (it was off the road for 9 years so my memory of the sound is
a bit dim).
I’m wondering if my bearings are in need of replacing.
Anyway, the problems I’m experiencing aren’t related to the bearings, it’s
that the Zilla is giving me error code 1131(short/load at precharge). I just
pulled all of the batteries and the controller out of the motor bay so I could
take a look at the motor. I haven’t been able to get a clear look at the brush
rigging yet but I didn’t see any sparks shooting out of the end of the motor…
that must be good right?
-Jeremy
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