Hello Brain, 

On my latest motor to transmission modification where I mated up a WarP-11 to a 
TCI.com GM-TH400 automatic transmission to a manual, I had to engineer the 
motor coupler distance to the motor to transmission matting distance which 
should be the same as a engine that uses the same type of transmission.  

I went to a engine rebuilder that had engines in stock that mates to the same 
type of transmission I was using.  

Next place a machinist straight edge across the engine transmission mating 
surface running past the engine crank shaft flange.  Record the distance that 
the crank shaft flange face is in relationship to the transmission mating 
surface on the engine.  

This is the same distance that the motor coupler should be in relationship to 
the face of the adapter plate that is bolted to the motor.  

In my case, the crank shaft flange was out about 7/8 of a inch from the engine 
transmission mating surface, so this is the same reference I need on the motor 
coupler flange to a the surface of the transmission mating surface.  

I had a Warp 11 motor , motor coupler and transmission in stock as a spare back 
up.  I place the motor with motor coupler attach and transmission on a engine 
stand which I modified to hold the electric motor and transmission exactly 
level and in line.  

In using a manual transmission, the transmission pilot shaft should insert into 
a pilot shaft bushing that is inserted into the motor coupler.  Do not butt up 
the transmission pilot shaft tight.  There should be about 1/8 of a inch 
clearance for a manual transmission and up to 3/16 of a inch for automatic 
transmission. 

Make sure the transmission bell housing is exactly parallel to the motor 
housing by measuring different points until all the measurements have no more 
differences than 0.001 of a inch.  

Lets say the engine crank flange on the engine has 1 inch difference and the 
motor coupler has a 2 inch difference to the motor housing, than the adapter 
plate should be 2 inch - 1 inch = 1 inch thick plus minus 0.001 of a inch. 

It is also important that the output drive of the transmission also have some 
clearance, so the drive shaft to the wheels or differential is allow to move in 
and out of the transmission as these units move up and down.   Knowing this, 
the motor and transmission if place in the correct position.  

It is best to do this transmission measurements while the engine is in the 
vehicle while its on grade and off grade for future reference.  

Roland 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Oasis Animal Hospital<mailto:[email protected]> 
  To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 2:31 PM
  Subject: [EVDL] finding a lost "critical distance"


     I have inherited an EV conversion from a friend who basically didn’t have 
the foresight to do it right.
      The friend got the engine out, and after not getting much further, I took 
it over.  Here is the problem:  He doesn’t have the critical distance!!!   He 
says he had it, but doen’t know where it is.  I have been trying to find this 
number somewhere, I know it has to exist, but was wondering if you knew of a 
way to look it up?
      The vehicle is a 1988 Mazda B2200.  I know that places like KTA sell a 
adaptor and hub kit that is pretty much the same for every b2200, so I figured 
there has to be a pretty standard measurement for it.  Any suggestions?
  Thanks,

  Brian 

  [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
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