I had some experience using Noalox, I hope the following is useful ...
Way back in my early EV years, when heard the snoWhite Electric race car
http://web.stanford.edu/dept/SUL/library/extra4/sloan/EVonline/evaosc/9404/page8.htm
http://www.cafeelectric.com/images/Snowhite1.jpg
was using Noalox on its battery connectors to improve conductivity / reduce
resistive loss on the power connections, I wanted to try it.
On my a PbSO4 battery change I tried using Noalox to help offset the losses
I was having driving a heavy wind-pusher S-10 Blazer EV conversion. I
cleaned my battery connections using rubbing alcohol (the connectors and
battery posts did not have any severe corrosion). The small bottle of Noalox
I bought was not cheap, but I applied it as I was instructed (I used the
correct amount) on all metal to metal surfaces (the battery posts/terminals,
and the inside of the battery connectors).
After all of that, did I see a difference in using Noalox on my metal to
metal power connections? Yes. Not much difference, but slightly less wasted
power from connector resistance (after a long run or mountain climbing, my
connectors and posts/terminals were cooler when using Noalox, added 3 to 5
miles on a 60+ mile 132VDC T145 pack).
Later, I used up what Noalox I had left on the next battery changes. But
after I ran out of Noalox, I was not doing long distance driving with my EV
any longer, so I just use regular connections on a battery change. The
performance and range was a little less, but IMO for regular city driving,
it is not worth the Noalox cost. But, if I wanted to slightly push the
performance and or range of an EV conversion again, I would consider using
Noalox again.
{brucedp.150m.com}
...
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Noalox+conductive
-
On Thu, Aug 7, 2014, at 08:22 PM, Rick Beebe via EV wrote:
> REAP Systems in England did test that in a lab last year. You can see a
> video presentation they did on the EVTV web site. Go to video archives,
> August 16, 2013. A direct link is
> http://media3.ev-tv.me/news081613-iPhone.m4v. The presentation starts at
> 23 minutes and the results are around 36 minutes.
>
> Instead of sanding they used a steel bristle brush to remove the tarnish
> from the terminals and busbars. They discharged the cells at 300 amps in
> 60 second bursts 30 times. The BMS was monitoring individual cell
> temperatures and if they exceeded 45C it would reduce the current. They
> strapped 7 100Ah cells together.
>
> With uncleaned terminals they got one cycle before having to reduce the
> current because of temperature. The warmest cell got up to 55C after 10
> cycles.
>
> With cleaned terminals there was no reduction in current until after 11
> cycles when the warmest cell got up to 45C. The warmest cell eventually
> got just above 50C but after those 11 cycles they'd already drawn half
> the capacity of the cells.
>
> Interestingly there was virtually no difference when they added the
> grease. So if you think the grease will help prevent corrosion that's
> fine. But it doesn't seem to do anything to help the connection.
>
> --Rick
>
> On 7/31/2014 12:43 PM, Michael Ross via EV wrote:
> > With aluminum, you just cannot expose bare un-oxidixed metal, it is not
> > possible to do this, so I am not happy with the sanding idea. The
> sanding
> > has to be helpful on some other basis if it is indeed helpful.
> >
> > Be interesting if someone has compared greased un-sanded to greased and
> > sanded.
-
--
View this message in context:
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Re-To-Noalox-or-Not-to-Noalox-tp4670881p4670885.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
_______________________________________________
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
