I can only park ~ 80 ft away from an outlet at work so I use a 100ft
extension cord and I used to live in an apartment for a while.
I have a second 100ft 12 AWG extension cord, but prefer not to use them
in series (but will do that if needed), but I have used that second cord
as a "fixed" outlet in my parking stall at that apartment.
Our balcony was straight up from the parking slot and had outside
outlets, so I secured the cord to our balcony and only plugged it in
when I had the vehicle plugged in also. It worked fine to charge
overnight that way and I could use my electric truck the whole time we
lived there.
At work I roll out my 100 ft 12 AWG cord. Luckily the outlet is 2 ft
from the service panel.
At 15 Amp, the drop is such that at the end of the cord I still get over
110V AC, so that is very acceptable.
That was different in another building (and with a 14 AWG cord) where
the
plug was about furthest away from the service panel, very likely more
than
100 ft of building wiring since the voltage at the outlet dropped to
105V
at a 15A draw. Since that extension cord was also too thin, the voltage
at the vehicle was only 90V which caused the current to be much higher
than when receiving 120V, so the wires ran hot and the 15A protection on
my power strip often tripped. parking in the back iso in front and using
a short cord allowed me to get more than 115V and current dropped to
around 12A. The issue with modern supplies and chargers is that they are
constant-power, so they regulate their *output* and will try to pull
from the inlet whatever needed to maintain the output power. If the
voltage tanks, the current shoots up and some EVs have had a bad rap due
to exactly this problem: For example Vectrix was bought by people who
have no parking, they can't use a car, but can store a motorcycle
somewhere nearby. They would try to feed their bike via an extension
cord, but due to marketing push the charger was pushed to maximum power
(just like the controller overtaxed the batteries to get good numbers
for max speed) so the ~1500 Watts that the (crappy designed) charger
would try to pull and which is just over 12A at 120V would skyrocket to
over 15A when using a similar cord as that I was using for my previous
EV. At that current, the charger would often fail (and due to its
design, it was non-repairable unless you have a masochistic tendency) so
plenty bikes sat unusable until a different type of charger was made
available.
Of course, the correct solutoin is that a charger monitors voltage and
current. If either goes out of spec, it simply throttles back to protect
itself, the extension cord and the house wiring and outlet.
I don't know if the vehicles are that smart (note that it is not the
EVSE who regulates voltage or current, it is a smart cord, while it is
the vehicle that determines how its charger will respond.

My vehicle has an old-fashioned dumb charger that contains a (resonant)
transformer, so the lower the input voltage, the lower the current.
I find that when I plug in to a public charging station that is fed from
208V, the power my charger draws is similar to when plugging directly
into a 120V socket, so I sometimes forego the "Level 2" chargers that
supply 208V until I have added an extra switch to my transformer output
that allows me to choose a higher tap (normally only used for higher
pack voltages) to allow a decent current when connecting to 208V.

Hope this clarifies,

Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.info
Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626


-----Original Message-----
From: EV [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Roland via EV
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 7:15 AM
To: brucedp5; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] EVLN: Should Extension Cords Be Used With
Plugins?(don't get burned)

   
Do not forget to calculated the length of the entire circuit from the
circuit breaker panel to the charger. A standard 120 vac 60 hz 20 amp
circuit using a No. 12 stranded copper should held to 20 foot circuit
length for a 1 percent voltage drop.  You can go up to 42 feet circuit
length for a 3 percent voltage drop.  

 

This includes the breaker to receptacle circuit length plus the power
cord to the charger. 

 

On a 20 amp circuit using a 20 amp receptacle, it is preferred to
limited the current on a 20 ampere circuit to 80% or about 16 amps. 

 

On a 20 amp circuit using a 15 amp receptacle, it is preferred to
limited the current to 12 amperes.  

 

The standard power cord for interior areas that is not being pull around
on the floor constantly can be Type SJTO rate at 300 volts.  

 

For exterior areas, the cord should be a Type S or SO 300 or 600 volt
rated, with water tight plug and connectors.  Also rated for low
temperatures.  

 

If the total power circuit is more than 42 feet at a 16 amp load from
the circuit breaker panel, the first 42 feet should be a No. 10 AWG 19
stranded copper wire to a dedicated receptacle or make sure there is no
other loads on that circuit.

 

You can then use a 20 amp 300 volt rated stranded copper power cord up
to 20 feet for a 2 percent voltage drop. It is best not to go over a 3
percent voltage drop.

 

Roland 




  


----- Original Message ----- 

From: brucedp5 via EV<mailto:[email protected]> 

To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> 

Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 2:24 AM

Subject: [EVDL] EVLN: Should Extension Cords Be Used With Plugins?
(don't get burned)





'If done right, correctly sized & used extension cables are OK'

https://transportevolved.com/2014/12/09/reader-questions-answered-use-ex
tension-cord-electric-car/<https://transportevolved.com/2014/12/09/reade
r-questions-answered-use-extension-cord-electric-car/>
Reader Questions, Answered: Should I Use an Extension Cord With an
Electric
Car?
December 9, 2014 By Nikki Gordon-Bloomfield

[images  
https://d2v41vkldk04pc.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/IMG_235
0.jpg<https://d2v41vkldk04pc.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/I
MG_2350.jpg>
Can you or should you use an extension lead to charge an electric car?

https://d2v41vkldk04pc.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Plug.jp
g<https://d2v41vkldk04pc.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Plug.
jpg>
(burnt/overheated plug-prong) This is the reason why automakers don't
like
you using portable charging equipment in untested outlets.

https://d2v41vkldk04pc.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/J3504x2
336-08010.jpg<https://d2v41vkldk04pc.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2
014/12/J3504x2336-08010.jpg>
This is an example of a poorly-built charging lead.

https://d2v41vkldk04pc.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Outlet.
jpg<https://d2v41vkldk04pc.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Out
let.jpg>
(burnt/overheated wall outlet) When there's a problem with a circuit, be
it
mechanical or electrical, there's a risk of a fire or overheating.

https://d2v41vkldk04pc.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/J2160x1
440-09730.jpg<https://d2v41vkldk04pc.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2
014/12/J2160x1440-09730.jpg>
If used correctly, extension cables shouldn't pose a threat.
]

Here at Transport Evolved, we spend most of our time bringing you the
latest
news in the world of cleaner, greener, safer and smarter transportation.
Sometimes, that means covering the latest press releases from major
automakers. Sometimes, it means taking cars out for long test-drives to
put
them through their paces. And sometimes, it means answering reader
questions.

Today, we've been sent the following question by Phil, who is about to
test
out a Nissan LEAF for a few days to see if it's a good match for him and
his
family.

He writes:

    I'm after some advice on the use of an extension lead to charge a
car. 
I'm getting a Nissan Leaf on a 7 day trial and have no driveway, so
would
have to use an extension lead to charge it.

    I have seen Robert Llewellyn and some other people use one in
videos,
but for my trial it says not to use one.

    It wouldn't be an ordinary extension lead I would use, it is one I
use
when I go camping, and I have an adaptor to plug it into a mains socket,
so
with all the extra safety features of the extension, what do you think?


Thanks for your question, Phil. It's one which we've been asked before,
so
we hope you won't mind if we turn this into a little piece of advice for
other would-be plug-in owners who are asking the same question. In fact,
charging with extension cords is one of the more common questions we're
asked, so we think it's high time we offer our advice.

Why its 'officially' not recommended
To start, it's probably best to examine why most automakers advice
against
using extension leads when charging a car, and why many even discourage
the
use of a portable charging 'brick' or Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment
(EVSE) instead of a dedicated charging station.

It's common sense that an low to medium-power electric car charging
station
- portable or fixed - takes power from the mains electricity at either
110
volts or 230 volts, and feeds it into the charging inlet of your car.
The
type of fixed, permanent charging stations sold for home use are
traditionally capable of between 3 kilowatts and 10 kilowatts of power
transfer, depending on the type of charging station and the car you're
wanting to charge. Portable charging stations usually provide between
1.5
kilowatts and 2.8 kilowatts, depending on the country you live in.

In pretty much every country we can think of, charging stations which
are
permanently wired into a building's electronics are supposed to be
installed
and checked by a qualified electrician. In some places, those
installations
must also be certified as being both safe and up to appropriate  wiring
regulations or code. These checks not only check the quality of the
installation, but also ensure that the electrical circuit feeding the
charging station is appropriately rated for the amount of power the
charging
station and car will require.

When it comes to a portable charging station however, the unit can be
plugged into any power outlet, regardless of its age or condition. In
the
UK, where Phil is writing from, this means a household outlet which is
rated
at 230 volts and 13 amps. We should note however that most portable
charging
units pull between 6 and 10 amps to give at least minimal headroom
between
the maximum current drawn and the maximum theoretical current the outlet
can
provide.

Assuming the wall outlet the portable EVSE is plugged into is correctly
wired, has the correct power rating and has clean, no-corroded contacts,
charging your car from it will have no problem.

But if the contacts are corroded or poorly maintained, the cable joining
the
socket to the fusebox is of an incorrect rating, or there's some other
lose
connection somewhere between fuse box and EVSE, it makes it harder for
electricity to pass through the circuit. When that happens, the cables
and
connectors can heat up.

Since it's likely that most domestic outlets are correctly maintained
and
appropriately wired, automakers generally consider it okay to charge up
from
a wall socket in an emergency, since they can vouch for the condition of
the
charging cable and EVSE 'brick'.

Include an extension cord of unknown origin, specification and
condition,
and most automakers get a little nervous. That's because you're not only
adding an extra pair of connections to the circuit - which increases the
risk of a poor connection somewhere - but you're physically making the
electrical circuit longer. The longer the physical circuit, the more
likely
it is that the electricity will find it harder to flow along the cable.

What's more, most extension leads aren't meant to work with the heavy,
sustained loads called for when charging an electric car, and can easily
heat up when pushed too hard.

To avoid any unexpected problems, most automakers - especially when
carrying
out extended test drives - request people don't use extension cords.

Reality is sometimes different
You'll note we split the nitty-gritty explanation into its own part, and
that's because as is often the case with life, the reality of using
extension cords is somewhat different.

Of those we know with plug-in cars, most carry some form of emergency
extension cord with them on longer trips or when visiting friends and
family
who don't have a dedicated charging station. Instead of being a cable
they've found in the back of the garage, these owners will take their
time
and buy a cable which is approved and rated for use on higher electrical
loads.

In the UK, where it's okay to still wire your own extension leads, some
owners even make their own heavy-duty extension cords, buying
appropriate
heavy-duty 13-amp sockets and flexible, heavy-duty 'Arctic' cable that
is
rated to carry an electrical load far higher than the EVSE will pull.

In these cases, the use of an extension cord isn't all that risky -
although
we should note there is always some inherent risk in adding extra
physical
connections in the circuit - and when used apporpriately with a
well-maintained, tested power outlet, there shouldn't be a problem.

Phil's situation
In Phil's case, we note that the cable he's proposing to use is one
which is
rated to carry far more than the current the portable EVSE will use ,
and
even makes use of the CE 16-amp (blue) plug found at camp sites across
Europe on one end. As well as being a larger connector - which lowers
mechanical and electrical stresses on the plug and socket - the cable
itself
is rated to carry 25 amps, far more current than the EVSE will pull.

If someone were to use this extension cord to charge an electric car, it
would be one of the better extension cords we've ever seen used for the
purpose. Here at Transport Evolved, all of our plug-in owning staff have
used extension cords from time to time to charge a plug-in car. 

And for the most part, we've not had any problems. But we also know
people
who have been unlucky through using an unfamiliar outlet, or whose
portable
EVSE  has pulled out of the attached plug, causing an electrical short
and
heating. As a consequence, you should NEVER use a portable charging unit
with an unknown power outlet or an unknown extension cord, and you
should
only really use portable charging units as a temporary or emergency
solution
in preference to a dedicated charging station.

DISCLAIMER: We're not condoning the use of extension cords to charge
your
plug-in car. Nor are we saying bad things will happen if you do. We're
saying that yes, there are risks and yes, when used with the correct
precautions, you shouldn't have a problem.

Transport Evolved accepts no responsibility or liability for those who
choose to use an extension cord after reading this discussion. Instead,
the
onus is on each individual to accept all liability when using a portable
EVSE - with or without an extension lead. 
[(c) 2014 Transport Evolved]




For EVLN posts use:
http://evdl.org/evln/<http://evdl.org/evln/>
http://www.evdl.org/archive/index.html#nabble+template%2FNamlServlet.jtp
%3Fmacro%3Dsearch_page%26node%3D413529%26query%3DEVLN%2Bbrucedp2%26days%
3D0%26sort%3Ddate<http://www.evdl.org/archive/index.html#nabble+template
%2FNamlServlet.jtp%3Fmacro%3Dsearch_page%26node%3D413529%26query%3DEVLN%
2Bbrucedp2%26days%3D0%26sort%3Ddate>

http://www.detroitnews.com/story/business/autos/2014/12/02/merkel-backs-
incentives-germanys-electric-car-goal/19792255/<http://www.detroitnews.c
om/story/business/autos/2014/12/02/merkel-backs-incentives-germanys-elec
tric-car-goal/19792255/>
Chancellor.de Merkel backs EV incentives to reduce emissions

http://postandparcel.info/63561/news/deutsche-post-dhls-electric-new-dea
l/<http://postandparcel.info/63561/news/deutsche-post-dhls-electric-new-
deal/>
Deutsche Post DHL acquires streetscooter.eu EVs

http://www.pressherald.com/2014/11/30/josh-christie-on-behalf-of-all-win
ter-sports-enthusiasts-thanks-a-plenty/<http://www.pressherald.com/2014/
11/30/josh-christie-on-behalf-of-all-winter-sports-enthusiasts-thanks-a-
plenty/>
2 EVSE & 803 PVs @Greenwood ME's Mt. Abram> an eco-future ski-resort
+
EVLN: GBP32k Tesla-Developed Mercedes-Benz B-Class EV Is Now on Sale


{brucedp.150m.com}



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