Hello Jay,  

 

Parallel three modules is like paralleling six cells.  This is what I did.  
Unlike all the cells being in series the full battery ampere is felt by all the 
cells.  Lets say you ever get the battery ampere up to 600 amps if you are 
going to drag race, the maximum cell ampere will be 600/6 = 100 amps.  

 

I did a long drive yesterday going up a 5 mile slope at 40 to 50 mph.  On 
acceleration the battery amp never went over 100 amps and the motor ampere is 

about 300 amps.  At a constant speed, the motor ampere is held at 180 amps, the 
battery ampere at 60 ampere and the six cells in parallel are 60/6 = 10 amps 
per cell.

 

So there will be no problem with three modules connected in parallel.  After 
the run of 10.4 miles, it took 29.2 ampere hour.  Charge the battery pack with 
a PFC-50 charger set at 30 amperes and it took 65 minutes to charge.  

 

The battery temperature before the run was 70 F.  Turn on the battery box 
exhaust fans which brought in cool 55 F. morning ambient air.  Let the EV set 
for two hours and the battery temperature was at 68 F.  The ambient air was 
above 80 F between the space of the glass hatch back and the double layer 
battery box. Turn on the hatch fans to exhaust this air back to 72 degrees.  
Did not turn on the battery exhaust fans which may bring in a higher 
temperature than the battery temperature.

 

On the return trip it was a down hill run with some level driving.  The battery 
and motor ampere is 0 to about 30 amperes  which is about 0 to 5 amperes per 
cell. The battery temperature at home was still 68 F!!!  and was still about 
that temperature after charging.  

 

It is best not to remove the cells from the aluminum cases, because the 
aluminum cases act like a heat sink and the cells are space from the ends of 
the modules for air ventilation through vent holes.  The modules are assemble 
together with about 1/8 to 3/16 inch space for air circulation.  Each battery 
pack block should be space apart for air circulation and exhaust venting.   The 
modules should not be touch the sides of the battery box container.  I leave 
about 2 inch space between the modules and about 5 inches between the modules.  

 

Roland 


----- Original Message ----- 

From: Jay Summet via EV<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> 

To: ev@lists.evdl.org<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> 

Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 8:01 AM

Subject: Re: [EVDL] Seeking Advice: Reusing the battery modules from a Nissan 
Leaf





On 03/31/2015 09:12 AM, via EV wrote:
> Anyone know what the maximum discharge rate is for the Nissan Leaf
> batteries?
>
No hard facts, but here are my estimates:

The Nissan leaf battery is made up of 48 modules, each providing 7-8.2 
volts at 60Ah, for a total of 390-400 volt max @ 60Ah or ~24 kWh.

The leaf motor is rated at 80 kW, and the battery pack is supposed to be 
able to provide up to 90 kW (motor + all accessories), which at maximum 
voltage would be 228 amps. This is around 3.8 times C (60Ah) which seems 
to be easily in the realm of possibility, and matches up with the fact 
that the fuse in the leaf battery pack is a 250 amp fuse.

Individual modules MAY be able to provide  10C (600amps!) for a short 
period of time, but may also burst into flame or just die quickly if 
asked to do so....I wouldn't recommend it!

I expect that they can provide a solid 3C rate for a relatively decent 
amount of time (30 seconds anyways) without any serious ill effects in 
the long term, which is very much in line with other lithium batteries.

For my application (S-10 pickup at 120 volts) I'll rarely need to go 
over a 300 amp draw (typically 50-100 amps continuous) and am planning 
on arranging them in sixteen series packs of 3 parallel modules, giving 
a 180-190 Ah battery at close to 120 volts. So my max discharge will 
probably be closer to the 1.7-2 C rate which feels relatively 
conservative to me.

Jay
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