This sub-subject gets done to death pretty regularly but I like gathering
what I hear from both camps.  Definitely going to use a BMS but I really
like the non-BMS workaround of getting *two* expensive battery packs and
using a really simple gauge that shows their comparative voltage.  If one
is sagging more than the other, pull over and find out what is wrong.  If
you have a smart BMS... it takes care of it for you until you can get home
;)

sean

On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 3:58 PM, Cor van de Water via EV <[email protected]>
wrote:

> Paul,
> In your case, *you* were the BMS.
> But you were lucky that you noticed the lower end voltage and knew
> something was off.
> You were lucky that the charger finished charging without cooking the
> other cells to death
> You were lucky that the bad cell was a short and not a partial failure
> or you might not have detected it in time or faced a much more severe
> situation than a shorted cell.
> Anyone less knowledgeable than you about your EV (and that would be 99+
> percent of all drivers)
> would not have caught this failure and continued until disaster, so your
> vehicle can be used by you
> alone, because you are an essential part of that vehicle! (namely, the BMS)
> It looks like you just confirmed the thing that you tried to disprove...
>
> Cor van de Water
> Chief Scientist
> Proxim Wireless
>
> office +1 408 383 7626                 Skype: cor_van_de_water
> XoIP   +31 87 784 1130                 private: cvandewater.info
> www.proxim.com
>
>
> This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
> proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
> this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
> unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this
> message is prohibited.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Dove [mailto:[email protected]]
> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 11:13 AM
> To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
>
> I had this issue early on in my vehicle and at the end of charge my pack
> voltage reflected this and I removed the bad cell. The cell was shorted but
> the rest of the pack was fine. I have no cell monitoring.
>
> Pretty sure it was caused by a loose connection. That said, apart from
> expense I have no problem with a BAttery Monitor that looks at every cell
> but prismatic cells have multiple cells in them in parallel so you can't
> monitor them individually.
>
> Still of the opinion it is an unnecessary expense.
>
> You haven't convinced me that cell discharge or drift between SOC is a
> real issue. I cat see it ever being an issue.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 18, 2015, at 12:44 PM, Cor van de Water via EV <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> >
> > Paul,
> > It is true that in series string the same *load* current goes through
> > all cells, but the principle of self-discharge is that it occurs
> > internal to the cell, so it is invisible to the outside world except
> > when you measure each cell (or blow them up due to overcharge or
> under-discharge).
> > I have actually measured cells and seen the self-discharge.
> > As you say, it is a small effect in good cells.
> > But still, there is about 1:2 difference in self-discharge between the
> > cells I monitor and the differences add up over time.
> > It might not be a problem in the first year or even in the second.
> > Then in the 3rd year you try to squeeze an 85 or 90% discharge from
> > the cells and boom - one reverses (or more) and it is destroyed and
> > you might only find out from the fireworks when you try to charge it the
> next cycle or when you drive it.
> > Oh BTW - one reason to monitor *all* and *every* cell is exactly the
> > issue with the infamous bottom-balancing without BMS approach:
> > Some of the cells that I have were abused and too deeply discharged.
> > Guess what happens? They become a resistor.
> > Some are "low" resistance which is OK when they resemble a wire,
> > others are still "in doubt" whether they want to become a piece of wire
> or rather a heating element.
> > This has at least 2 disastrous effects if you do not detect this
> immediately:
> >
> > 1. The pack voltage has dropped and each cell now gets a much higher
> > finish charging so you might have been charging conservatively with
> > all cells in the string, but with some cells "removed", all the rest
> > is dividing up the difference and may easily be charged to destruction
> now!
> >
> > 2. If charging does not harm the pack, what about discharging hundreds
> > of Amps through a resistor that is nicely embedded in the pack,
> > insulated from the outside by the cells around it? If it even drops
> > 10V across it at hundreds of Amps, you now have a multi-kiloWatt heater
> inside your pack without much cooling. What do you think will happen?
> >
> > Just some easy illustration of the *need* for a cell-level BMS, from
> > practice by measuring what happened to a used set of Lithiums (that
> > indeed was run without BMS) and I have been monitoring since taking it
> out of service. Learn from it or get your own experience, your choice.
> >
> > Cor van de Water
> > Chief Scientist
> > Proxim Wireless
> >
> > office +1 408 383 7626        Skype: cor_van_de_water
> > XoIP   +31 87 784 1130        private: cvandewater.info
> > www.proxim.com
> >
> >
> > This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
> proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
> this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
> unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this
> message is prohibited.
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: EV [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of paul dove via
> > EV
> > Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 9:57 AM
> > To: Lee Hart; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> > Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
> >
> > Excerpt:In theory, all batteries are identical. If wired in series, you
> would therefore expect them all to charge and discharge equally. But in
> practice, there are differences. New batteries that are all the same brand,
> same model, same date code (and without "lemons" or quality control
> defects) will still have small differences. Each cell 's self-discharge
> rate, amphour capacity, internal resistance, and charge/discharge
> efficiency will be slightly different. This makes them drift to different
> states of charge. For example, cells with a higher self-discharge rate run
> down faster just from sitting. Cells with a lower amphour capacity get more
> deeply discharged on each cycle, which lowers their efficiency (so they
> need a bit more current to fully recharge). Cells with a higher internal
> resistance run a little hotter, which affects their efficiency and
> self-discharge rate. These differences tend to get larger over time. If not
> corrected, you can have a pack with some cells almost full, and some almost
> empty!
> > Ok, here's the deal this is fiction. Self discharge is so low (milivolts
> over years) as to be non-existant.Secondly, if they are in series then all
> current passing through cells is equal. It is impossible to draw more
> current from one cell than another  in a series pack. It can short and pass
> all current or it can open and pass no current but it cannot discharge
> faster or slower.
> > If it has higher resistance then it will cause cells to heat faster that
> is all.
> > Please show evidence that your theory is possible.
> > The only person I spoke with having issues with new cells is when they
> were placed in parallel with old cells. In that case the wires melted
> because the new cell was handling more of the current. You may damage cells
> if there is a big difference in resistance only if you exceed the max
> current draw from the cell. If one never approaches the max current draw
> this will not be an issue.
> >
> >
> >      From: Lee Hart via EV <[email protected]>
> > To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 10:53 AM
> > Subject: Re: [EVDL] Bicycle battery
> >
> > Paul Dove via EV wrote:
> >> That was a very good summary. Cell balancing is something that was
> >> done with other chemistry a and many have tried to apply it to Li Ion
> >> chemistries but it doesn't work with Lithium since cells do self
> >> discharge or drift.
> >>
> >> If one wanted to balance them it has to be done below 3.38 volts
> >> otherwise you are still charging the cell. Thanks for your input.
> >
> > Lithiums need balancing even more than other chemistries! You can only
> > get by without a BMS if the cells are so well matched that they
> > accidentally stay in balance. (Do you feel lucky?)
> >
> > Look at my own balancer at http://www.sunrise-ev.com/balancer.htm
> > I built it to *use*, not to sell. It doesn't load the cells, or clamp
> the voltage at some arbitrary level, and doesn't have failure modes that
> murder cells.
> >
> > It basically does what you would do yourself, if you had the time and
> inclination. It measures the voltage of every cell, and charges the ones
> that are low.
> > --
> > The greatest pleasure in life is to create something that wasn't there
> > before. -- Roy Spence
> > --
> > Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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-- 
Sean Korb [email protected] http://www.spkorb.org
'65,'68 Mustangs,'68 Cougar,'78 R100/7,'60 Metro,'59 A35,'71 Pantera #1382
"The more you drive, the less intelligent you get" --Miller
"Computers are useless.  They can only give you answers." -P. Picasso
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