Apparently it is Mastervolt indeed,
they have a BattMan Pro and a BattMan Lite
http://www.mastervolt.us/new-products/
It looks like the Pro has a large digit readout and stores past events
while the Lite has a large bar readout (and small digits) and no
history.
http://www.mastervolt.us/products/battery-monitoring-panels/battman-pro/
http://www.mastervolt.us/products/battery-monitoring-panels/battman-lite
/


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-----Original Message-----
From: EV [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Lee Hart via EV
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2016 12:19 PM
To: Jay Summet; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Looking for an AH meter, pack powered, circular 2"
mounting hole

>> http://evolveelectrics.com/displays/tbs-e-xpert-pro/

Jay Summet via EV wrote:
> Thanks for the link, yes, that would work.

This looks like a rebranded Xantrex LinkPro meter. The original was the 
Cruising Equipment E-meter. They were bought out by Heart Interface and 
it become the Link-10. Then Xantrex bought them, and it became the 
LinkPro. I think Xantrex outsourced it to someone (Mastervolt?) and it 
changed names again. These meters are all fairly well made; not the 
usual throwaway indoor-only crap.

> It does use an external DC/DC and 1:5 prescaler, as well as an in-line
> shunt (I assume), but I could work with that (and the $300 price) if
> it's the best (only) option for the 2" mounting hole.

You should also be able to find any of the earlier versions on eBay etc.

for much less. I've bought them for $50-$100. Just be sure it works (so 
you're not buying someone's broken one).

> I do like the ability to monitor my 12 volt battery on the same gauge,
I
> could potentially remove the Pack/Accessory voltage meters I have now
in
> the center console and reclaim that space.

In fact, Heart Interface also had a 2-battery version, called the 
Link-20. All the same functions, but it monitored *two* battery packs. 
One drawback, though... the two shared a common ground. But that's 
fixable; keep reading. :-)

These meters all basically need an isolated 12v power source (provided 
by an external isolated DC/DC converter). Then, they have 4 input wires;

+pack and -pack to sense voltage, and +shunt and -shunt to sense 
current. The -pack and -shunt wires need to be at the same voltage; 
treat them as if they are tied together.

The current draw on the sense wires is very low -- far less than 1 ma. 
This eliminates problems with voltage drop in long wires. It also means 
you can isolate it very easily. Switch a capacitor back and forth 
between the isolated voltage, and the meter's voltage. Switch position A

charges the capacitor to the isolated pack voltage. Position B connects 
the capacitor to the meter, which reads the voltage. A second capacitor 
across the meter inputs holds the voltage while the switched capacitor 
transfers back and forth.

You can use real relays, and switch them maybe once a second. A circuit 
I saw from the 1950's simply used two relays wired as a self-oscillating

flip-flop. Or optocouplers with FET outputs, switched by a 555 timer.

-- 
Knowledge is better than belief. Belief is when someone else does
your thinking.  -- anonymous
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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