I have an old heater from a pool. Probably 40 Amp at 240v so about 10kW at that 
voltage. It even has the thermostat still attached but you will have to add a 
contactor to run it at DC. You can have it for shipping cost or pick up for 
free. 
Cor. 

> On Feb 16, 2016, at 9:46 PM, via EV <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> I am bringing back from Thailand a 6500 Watt on demand 240 volt water heater 
> that I plan to use with my next conversion.size 6x5x3 in.
> I will do the easy mods nessasary to run off pack voltage 240.
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roland via EV <[email protected]>
> To: brucedp5 <[email protected]>; Electric Vehicle Discussion List 
> <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wed, Feb 17, 2016 12:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Heater solution for S-10 conversion, tips & tricks
> 
> 
> 
> I also left the original hot water heater core in the vehicle.  Can use 
> either the on board power or use a transfer switch to use commercial power to 
> preheat the heater while it is park and plug in.   This work great since I 
> did this modification back in 1980. 
> 
> 
> 
> Purchase most of the equipment from a local plumping and heating supply 
> house.  
> 
> 
> 
> 1.  The Element:  A standard 2500 watt / 250 volt hot water heater element 
> that can work on any voltage from 120 to 250 volts.  
> 
> 
> 
> 2.  The Tank:  A 3-inch copper pipe about 30 inches long with a tee fitting 
> at one
> 
>  end for a heater hose take off and threaded adapter to screw in the heater 
> 
>  element.   A reducer bell pipe cap to fit the 3/4 inch hose fittings.  
> 
> 
> 
> This tank and element was place on the same platform that the original engine 
> radiator was on.   
> 
> 
> 
> 3.   Fill Tank with pressure cap:  Use another 3 inch copper pipe place at 
> the same
> 
> position that the original radiator tank was in.  Had a radiator shop attach 
> a fill neck that takes a standard 15 lb pressure cap with a relief vent that 
> has a small hose to 
> 
> a overflow tank. 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.  A small 2.5 inch diameter by 4 inch brass circulating pump, 120 VAC @ 0.5 
> amp power by a 100 watt inverter you can get at JC Whitney that will run off 
> 12 vdc. 
> 
> 
> 
> The Fill tank, heater tank, and pump are all connected in series with the 
> heater hoses that are connected to the heater core. 
> 
> 
> 
> Both tanks and heater hoses are insulated with A/C high dense black foam hose 
> insulation you can get at Home Depot. 
> 
> 
> 
> Use a Honeywell immersing sensor that screws in a tee fitting of the hose 
> fitting that is connected to a Honeywell high temperature cut off.  I have my 
> set for 180 degrees F cut off with a 20 degrees differential that turns on at 
> 160 degrees.   
> 
> 
> 
> I use a 2 pole three position 30 amp 250 vac rated switch on the dash panel 
> to either select the on board power to the heater or 120/240 vac commercial 
> power while the main AC power plug is connected to the EV.  
> 
> 
> 
> The water heat takes longer than the two resistance cab heaters I am using.  
> In this High County (Montana), My EV was park at work while the temperature 
> was minus 35 below.  I use all three heaters which I turn on about 15 minutes 
> before I leave.  The inside cab area will get up to 80 degrees F. 
> 
> 
> 
> For the last 15 years, I only needed one heater to preheat the temperature to 
> 80 degrees in 15 minutes before I leave. 
> 
> 
> 
> Roland 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> 
> From: brucedp5 via EV<<a 
> href="mailto:[email protected]?";>mailto:[email protected]</a>> 
> 
> To: <a href="mailto:[email protected]";>[email protected]</a><<a 
> href="mailto:[email protected]?";>mailto:[email protected]</a>> 
> 
> Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 3:58 PM
> 
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Heater solution for S-10 conversion, tips & tricks
> 
> 
> 
> Originally my S-10 Blazer conversion had a resistive heater that barely
> defrosted the windshield after 15 minutes of warm up. At the time I did not
> mind as the weather back in the 1990's only saw 1 month of frost (now with
> the planet heating up, not at all). 
> 
> A few years later when I paid to have some other upgrades done, I had that
> wimpy heater replaced with a more powerful RUSSCO heater that used the
> original (hot water from the ice) heater-core (it drew 25A off my 120VDC
> pack). I did that for a couple of reasons, but mainly to reduce the
> complaints from the gal I was dating (I was warm, I had enough clothes on,
> etc.). That heater worked like a champ and I had heat quicker than she could
> complain.
> 
> I doubt you could still get a RUSSCO heater, but there are other heater
> solutions.
> I found a few links links for you to explore:
> <a href="http://www.canev.com/heater.php"; 
> target="_blank">http://www.canev.com/heater.php</a>
> 
> <a href="http://www.metricmind.com/category/ev-fluid-heaters/"; 
> target="_blank">http://www.metricmind.com/category/ev-fluid-heaters/</a>
> 
> I hope others will reply with what they use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For EVLN EV-newswire posts use: 
> <a href="http://evdl.org/evln/"; target="_blank">http://evdl.org/evln/</a>
> 
> 
> {brucedp.150m.com}
> 
> --
> View this message in context: <a 
> href="http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Resistive-heater-core-access-for-S-10-conversion-EVA-kit-tips-tricks-tp4680519p4680524.html";
>  
> target="_blank">http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Resistive-heater-core-access-for-S-10-conversion-EVA-kit-tips-tricks-tp4680519p4680524.html</a>
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at 
> Nabble.com.
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